I do some printing in PETG, mostly for hot end casings and cooling ducts, I've found there's a lot more variation in PETG by manufacturer than PLA.    From my experience PLA varies a fair bit also - but from recognised makers its always been consistently good, the cheap stuff from eBay has too much filler which does make it brittle, but done properly PLA is strong enough. I print PETG on a flexible steel sheet, sprayed with 3DLac just before the printer starts printing the line up the size of the bed.  I've found bed adhesion on PEX / PEI to destroy the top sheet, an expensive and tedious process to replace.. Most people complain of PETG stringing rather than the issues nop_head observed. The main difference in settings is to turn the temperature up with no cooling and print more quickly than I would with PLA. For bridging issues, I'd go up another 5 to ten degrees and print faster [if possible],  the variation in PETG behaviour is likely down to the formulation of the PETG by manufacturer.  I keep mine bagged with lots of silica gel if not on the printer, I've had no issues with PLA moisture absorption even with spools open for 12 months plus, but my print room is warm with the door open only when going in/out. PETG layer adhesion is messed up with draughts, and PLA shrinks at the first opportunity in a draught. HTH