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TWL: Summary of blister job and refit costs (long)

K
Keith
Thu, May 1, 2003 4:38 PM

I promised the list that I'd post a summary of the work/costs that I did to
my Krogen 42 recently, so here it is.


Well, now that Anastasia III is back in the water after about 5 months,
I can post the summary of work done and costs.

Boat: 1986 Krogen 42, hull #99. Had severe blistering when I purchased
her, and planned to do a hull peel and drying to cure this. After a lot
of research, I decided to use the HotVac system to dry the hull.
http://www.hotvac.com/. Seabrook Shipyard did all the work. This was
their first time using the HotVac system, so we all learned a lot. I am
very pleased with their work and the results.

Time: I took her into the yard on Oct. 21, 2002. They started peeling
the hull almost immediately, and started using the HotVac system around
November 15, 2002. While the HotVac folks said it would take a dwell
time of about 6 hrs at 100 degrees C to dry each section, we had to
operate at 80 degrees C because of the Airex PVC coring in my hull. It
took about 18 hrs. /section to dry the hull to acceptable levels. The
HotVac system uses three heat/vacuum pads at a time, each are about 2' x
3' or so. Several areas needed to have the application done 2 or three
times, and a few areas just wouldn't dry, so we had to grind out a few
places and re-fiberglass. The hull was finished drying sometime around
January 13, 2003, about two months. The pads were usually applied and
running 5-6 days a week, sometimes less if the weather didn't cooperate.
While the boat was in a shed, when warm fronts or rain would come
through, the hull would sweat and the pads couldn't get a seal.

We started relaminating new fiberglass on January 27, 2003. Started
applying the first barrier coat on February 24. 3rd. coat of barrier
were put on around Feb. 27. 1st. coat of anti-fouling put on around
March 8. New boot stripe painted around March 18. Final coat of
anti-fouling applied around March 20. A little touchup on bottom paint
on March 25 after lifting off the blocks onto the sled, then splashed on
March 26, a bit over 5 months after starting. I took a LOT of pictures
of all of this, and the automatic date stamp in the digital camera was
very useful, and allows me to give you these dates. I highly recommend
you use one of these for any major project you do. You can see the pics
of the process start to finish at: http://photos.yahoo.com/klemmons69.
Click on "blister repair".

After peeling and drying the hull, here is what we applied:

3 sessions of 1.5 oz. fiberglass mat with vinylester resin
2 coats Interprotect 1000 - barrier coat
2 coats Interprotect 2000 - barrier coat
1 heavy sweep VC Watertight epoxy putty
3 coats Interprotect 2000 - barrier coat
2 coats antifouling - Petit Trinidad SR (4 gallons).

The relamination of new fiberglass was in addition to the bottom job,

and should be considered as an additional expense if you are doing

estimates. Labor was $7100 and parts were $3060. We had to do

this due to the amount of FG we ground off during the peel.

I prepped all the underwater metal except the prop with Petit's
underwater metal kit. This has a two-component acid etching primer
followed by two coats of a tie coat primer. I'll let everyone know how
this works out long term, but it sure was some tenacious stuff! The prop
and thruster props were prepped by the yard with Interlux 260R primer.

Costs:
After doing my hull, Seabrook Shipyard has set their pricing as follows:

Complete blister job including hull peel: $250/ft. - Sail, $300/ft. - Power.

Powerboats are a bit more expensive due to the more complicated hull

shape. However, if you have a trawler with a "sailboat" shaped hull,

they'll probably charge you the "sail" price.

Use of the HotVac system to post cure (dry) the hull:

$200/day.

Estimated drying times based on a 40' hull would be:

Solid hull (no coring) - 20 days.

Cored hulls - 40 days.

Different types of coring requires different drying times, so these are only

rough estimates.

My hull was a little less expensive, since it was their first time, and
we were at the bottom of the learning curve.

Other projects: (all $ figures are rounded)

Bow Thruster: Installed a Wesmar 13 HP, 24V bow thruster. Too cool! I've
only used it a couple of times, but really love it. Wesmar 13 hp 24V

thruster: $6200. Labor: $4700. Parts: $3500, most of which I think was

cable!

Transmission: Had the Velvet Drive transmission rebuilt as a PM measure.
You know how it is when you have a single engine! Rebuild charge: $740.

Labor: $530. Parts: $70.

Fish Finder: Installed a Raymarine fish finder at the upper helm. I had
no way to know the depth from up there before, as the only depth sounder
had its readout in the pilothouse. Labor: $550. Parts: $55. I can't remember

what I paid for the fish finder with thru-hull transducer, but maybe around

$200.

Sanitation system: Completed the installation of my sanitation system
upgrade, which included adding a new Sealand T-series diaphragm pump for
overboard discharge, new 1" vent for the new holding tank, new Sealand
Odorsafe hose, and some other misc. stuff. Labor: $1070. Parts: $510.

Parts were mostly fittings and hose, didn't include the diaphragm pump.

Thru-hulls: We pulled all the thru-hulls and seacocks and replaced them
with new Groco seacocks with proper backing plates. Labor: $2460.

Parts: $1660.

Cruising Generator: When I bought the boat, it had an engine 110V
generator, basically a big alternator that produced 110V. It was never
operational, and one of the pulleys had actually sheared off on the trip
home from the front of the engine. The shipyard removed the pulley
assembly from the front of the engine and found that the extra pulley
had just been bolted onto the existing one, with no spacers, so
essentially the contact point was the lips of the two pulleys. We
machined a proper spacer setup and reassembled with a matched pair of
Gates green stripe belts. Labor $380. Parts: $130.

New boot stripe: Painted a new green boot stripe with Imron paint.

Labor: $1400. Parts: $460.

You can contact me at mailto:klemmons@airmail.net for questions.

I was very pleased with the folks and the work performed at Seabrook
Shipyard. They've done a lot of work for me over the years and I've
always been happy with them. They have a web site at:
http://www.seabrook-shipyard.com/mainbody.htm. Contact info.:
Seabrook Shipyard
1900 Shipyard Drive
Seabrook, TX  77586
281-474-5186 - Voice
281-474-5198 - Fax
mailto:syrepair@aol.com

Keith
__
We're not on earth for a long time, just a good time.

I promised the list that I'd post a summary of the work/costs that I did to my Krogen 42 recently, so here it is. _______________________________ Well, now that Anastasia III is back in the water after about 5 months, I can post the summary of work done and costs. Boat: 1986 Krogen 42, hull #99. Had severe blistering when I purchased her, and planned to do a hull peel and drying to cure this. After a lot of research, I decided to use the HotVac system to dry the hull. http://www.hotvac.com/. Seabrook Shipyard did all the work. This was their first time using the HotVac system, so we all learned a lot. I am very pleased with their work and the results. Time: I took her into the yard on Oct. 21, 2002. They started peeling the hull almost immediately, and started using the HotVac system around November 15, 2002. While the HotVac folks said it would take a dwell time of about 6 hrs at 100 degrees C to dry each section, we had to operate at 80 degrees C because of the Airex PVC coring in my hull. It took about 18 hrs. /section to dry the hull to acceptable levels. The HotVac system uses three heat/vacuum pads at a time, each are about 2' x 3' or so. Several areas needed to have the application done 2 or three times, and a few areas just wouldn't dry, so we had to grind out a few places and re-fiberglass. The hull was finished drying sometime around January 13, 2003, about two months. The pads were usually applied and running 5-6 days a week, sometimes less if the weather didn't cooperate. While the boat was in a shed, when warm fronts or rain would come through, the hull would sweat and the pads couldn't get a seal. We started relaminating new fiberglass on January 27, 2003. Started applying the first barrier coat on February 24. 3rd. coat of barrier were put on around Feb. 27. 1st. coat of anti-fouling put on around March 8. New boot stripe painted around March 18. Final coat of anti-fouling applied around March 20. A little touchup on bottom paint on March 25 after lifting off the blocks onto the sled, then splashed on March 26, a bit over 5 months after starting. I took a LOT of pictures of all of this, and the automatic date stamp in the digital camera was very useful, and allows me to give you these dates. I highly recommend you use one of these for any major project you do. You can see the pics of the process start to finish at: http://photos.yahoo.com/klemmons69. Click on "blister repair". After peeling and drying the hull, here is what we applied: 3 sessions of 1.5 oz. fiberglass mat with vinylester resin 2 coats Interprotect 1000 - barrier coat 2 coats Interprotect 2000 - barrier coat 1 heavy sweep VC Watertight epoxy putty 3 coats Interprotect 2000 - barrier coat 2 coats antifouling - Petit Trinidad SR (4 gallons). The relamination of new fiberglass was in addition to the bottom job, and should be considered as an additional expense if you are doing estimates. Labor was $7100 and parts were $3060. We had to do this due to the amount of FG we ground off during the peel. I prepped all the underwater metal except the prop with Petit's underwater metal kit. This has a two-component acid etching primer followed by two coats of a tie coat primer. I'll let everyone know how this works out long term, but it sure was some tenacious stuff! The prop and thruster props were prepped by the yard with Interlux 260R primer. Costs: After doing my hull, Seabrook Shipyard has set their pricing as follows: Complete blister job including hull peel: $250/ft. - Sail, $300/ft. - Power. Powerboats are a bit more expensive due to the more complicated hull shape. However, if you have a trawler with a "sailboat" shaped hull, they'll probably charge you the "sail" price. Use of the HotVac system to post cure (dry) the hull: $200/day. Estimated drying times based on a 40' hull would be: Solid hull (no coring) - 20 days. Cored hulls - 40 days. Different types of coring requires different drying times, so these are only rough estimates. My hull was a little less expensive, since it was their first time, and we were at the bottom of the learning curve. Other projects: (all $ figures are rounded) Bow Thruster: Installed a Wesmar 13 HP, 24V bow thruster. Too cool! I've only used it a couple of times, but really love it. Wesmar 13 hp 24V thruster: $6200. Labor: $4700. Parts: $3500, most of which I think was cable! Transmission: Had the Velvet Drive transmission rebuilt as a PM measure. You know how it is when you have a single engine! Rebuild charge: $740. Labor: $530. Parts: $70. Fish Finder: Installed a Raymarine fish finder at the upper helm. I had no way to know the depth from up there before, as the only depth sounder had its readout in the pilothouse. Labor: $550. Parts: $55. I can't remember what I paid for the fish finder with thru-hull transducer, but maybe around $200. Sanitation system: Completed the installation of my sanitation system upgrade, which included adding a new Sealand T-series diaphragm pump for overboard discharge, new 1" vent for the new holding tank, new Sealand Odorsafe hose, and some other misc. stuff. Labor: $1070. Parts: $510. Parts were mostly fittings and hose, didn't include the diaphragm pump. Thru-hulls: We pulled all the thru-hulls and seacocks and replaced them with new Groco seacocks with proper backing plates. Labor: $2460. Parts: $1660. Cruising Generator: When I bought the boat, it had an engine 110V generator, basically a big alternator that produced 110V. It was never operational, and one of the pulleys had actually sheared off on the trip home from the front of the engine. The shipyard removed the pulley assembly from the front of the engine and found that the extra pulley had just been bolted onto the existing one, with no spacers, so essentially the contact point was the lips of the two pulleys. We machined a proper spacer setup and reassembled with a matched pair of Gates green stripe belts. Labor $380. Parts: $130. New boot stripe: Painted a new green boot stripe with Imron paint. Labor: $1400. Parts: $460. You can contact me at mailto:klemmons@airmail.net for questions. I was very pleased with the folks and the work performed at Seabrook Shipyard. They've done a lot of work for me over the years and I've always been happy with them. They have a web site at: http://www.seabrook-shipyard.com/mainbody.htm. Contact info.: Seabrook Shipyard 1900 Shipyard Drive Seabrook, TX 77586 281-474-5186 - Voice 281-474-5198 - Fax mailto:syrepair@aol.com Keith __ We're not on earth for a long time, just a good time.