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TWL: Re: Heading South!

R
rustynail@snet.net
Mon, Oct 9, 2000 9:56 PM

After many years of dreaming, my Admiral and I have been offered an early
'buy out' and are making plans to head south next year.  We plan to take the
intracoastal to FL and then thru Bahamas to Caribbean & cruise there for a
few years.  While we cruise the waters from NY to ME extensively every year,
we are not sure what we should read/research to help us plan our trip.
We have a MT/Tradewinds 43' w/T210 Cummins which serves us well up here in
LI/Block Island/Vinyard Sounds - what 'extras' would anyone suggest to
clasify as 'got to have' and what guides or other reading material would be
helpful for this trip.  What do you think o

Thanks

Capt Bob
M/V Rusty Nail
Madison, CT

----- Original Message -----
From: trawler-world-list owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com
To: trawler-world-list-digest@samurai.com
Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 12:00 AM
Subject: trawler-world-list V4 #99

trawler-world-list      Monday, October 9 2000      Volume 04 : Number

099

TWL: Re: Overhead Electronics
TWL: Re: Rebuilt laptops
TWL: Re: trawler-world-list V4 #98: Overhead Electronics
TWL: Fw: Pilothouse night lighting
TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)
TWL: Is this outboard worth working on?
Re: TWL: Soot! - how can I clean it off?
TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)
TWL: Is this outboard worth working on?
TWL: Boat interior noise
TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)
TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)
TWL: Dingies
Re: TWL: Dingies
Re: TWL: Rebuilt laptops
TWL: RE: Dingies


Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:06:12 -0700
From: pgslo@juno.com
Subject: TWL: Re: Overhead Electronics

One theory of instrumentation used by companies like Krogan, Nordhavn, &
Willard on their new boats, is to put instruments that are used
infrequently like engine tach, bilge pump switches, ignition switch, VHF
radio, etc. in the overhead console.  Instruments that are used
frequently like radar, depth, GPS, etc. are placed at eye level on the
console in front of the wheel.  This appears to be the preference in the
marketplace today as a practical solution to instrument placement.

tempus fugit
Patrick


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 00:31:08 -0000
From: "Ken McQuage" tobyboat@erols.com
Subject: TWL: Re: Rebuilt laptops

John ,

   You might like the techsmart.com  page - they offer laptops ( and a

ton of other electronics of the office variety ) at their store page and
also you may access their auction page through the b2b exchange header  -
then select notebooks .. Most are corp lease returns -checked out by their
techs -- most offer at least a 30 day guarantee -- some are sold as is -

if

they are damaged or missing parts - the selection is pretty wide and the
prices are pretty good - either at the store or auction pages ..

  Stuff that they really don't want to fool with they dump onto ebay

...

 I'm sure there are a lot of others of similiar variety ..

 All the Best
  Ken
 m/v Mrs. Hudson

Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 10:50:28 -0400
From: Howard W Evirs howardevi@juno.com
Subject: TWL: Re: trawler-world-list V4 #98: Overhead Electronics

I totally concur with Tom Little's, John & Judy Tones' and others' reply
to the location of electronics.  We own a sun deck trawler with both
upper and lower nav stations.  Most of our electronics are located on the
fly bridge, as the lower station offers poor visibility over the high bow
and is used rarely.  The fly bridge is covered with a hard top and
enclosed with curtains, such that we have 360 degree visibility.

Like Tom Little, our radar is located on the console at eye level, just
to the left of the instrument panel.  One of our two depth finder is
located directly in front of the center console and wheel.  The GPS is
located to the right and feeds its data onto the screen of the radar, so
all of our navigation data is in one place and easily visible at eye
level.  Above the console are located the auto pilot, radios and a rarely
used Loran.  I can attest that an overhead position is a strain and
inconvenience.  Quite often, while awaiting a bridge opening or other
reason to go manual, I'll forget to disconnect the auto pilot, since its
readout requires a real tilt of the head.  If radar was so located, one
would miss seeing many critical images.  Good luck for a comfortable
layout.

Capt. Howard Evirs
M/V White Squall
Sea Ranger 46
No. Palm Beach, FL


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 13:17:48 -0400
From: "Gayle Roudabush" skippergr@worldnet.att.net
Subject: TWL: Fw: Pilothouse night lighting

A couple of weeks ago two of us went to Goderich Canada to bring Classy

Lady

home between some strong westerlies marching down the Great Lakes.

Weather

was good so the run down Lake Huron was easy & then the St Claire river

was

also simple. Destination was Detroit so the last open water was Lake St
Claire--no big deal. It was full dark when we made the turn top follow

the

shipping channel across Lake St Claire. As we cleared the shelter of the
river, we realized that the wind was up & they were building - seas

right

on

the beam for our planned course. This is a very shallow lake (10-15 ft)
except for the shipping channel so maneuvering was not a good choice. So

we

followed the channel staying just outside of the lane to be clear of
commercial traffic. There was no moon and it was BLACK! As luck would

have

it there were several freighters in the lake, a tug w/2 barges on short

wire

and then as we were about out of the lake & into sheltered water, a tour
boat with what looked like a wedding party was headed out into the lake
passing quite close. Finally in the channel where we never see any
commercial traffic, a 600 footer was outbound (heading for us) having
deliverd gravel to a storage yard!
Now to the point. The light from the plotter, & Interphase were so

bright

we

had to cover them or shut them off. Neither had good dim

capabilities-radar

was okay. In the sea conditions we were experiencing lights were a real
problem. Seas were a good 6 ft (on the beam) and the anemometer recorded

43

mph. The light in the pilothouse was to bright to be able to shift eye
targets from outside to instruments without great difficulty. What has
anyone done to help in these situations?
Home safe & glad that trip is over!
Gayle Roudabush
Classy Lady AL46-14
Detroit MI


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 13:29:02 -0400
From: Fred Wunderlich fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com
Subject: TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)

We are a young (ahem-40-something) couple looking at a number of cruising
options.

As an ex-charterboat and delivery captain (sail), I have made an executive
decision go with a single screw trawler. Admiral wife likes the decision.
:) We really would like to stay in the 36-40 foot range, both for cost and
handling.  Speed is not a huge issue. Purchase budget will max about 140K.
Coastal cruising, ICW and occasionally Bahamas. Obviously we're looking

for

an older vessel

Our current dilema is layout. We both really like the "europa" or "sedan"
layouts vs. the "classic" aft cabin layouts.  Our limited experience on
classic layouts has been a very unkindly motion on the flybridge in any
kind of seaway and prefer a cockpit closer to the waterline. We also enjoy
the airiness of a salon with a "porch door".  We are willing to sacrifice
the the queen size stateroom for a comfortable and airy salon with covered
cockpit near the waterline.

I would be very interested in experiences, debate or suggestions.

Thanks!

fred


Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 06:58:35 -0700
From: Phil Keys philkeys@olympus.net
Subject: TWL: Is this outboard worth working on?

I have a Mercury 8hp outboard that came with the boat I bought last
year.  Its about
10 years old and sat unused for several years.  When I ran it for the

first

time it ran
fine, then wouldn't run again.  The local outboard repair shop says that
the top crank
seal is spun, probably due to rust on the crank. The top cylinder then
won't hold
compression.  They estimate about $600 to replace the seal but warn that
damage
to the crankshaft may make it unusable.

Does this sound right?  Is this engine worth working on?

Thanks

Phil Keys
"Kathy K"
1982 Sundowner 30 tug yacht
Port Hadlock, WA 98339


Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 11:24:25 -0700
From: Phil Keys philkeys@olympus.net
Subject: Re: TWL: Soot! - how can I clean it off?

At 06:15 AM 9/28/00 -0700, I wrote:

After a season of cruising, I have soot around the smokestack for my

diesel

stove and a light layer of soot on the transom from the engine
exhaust.  Both resist being washed off.  Does anybody know a slick way

of

cleaning it off?

Here's a summary of what the advice I received:

We use Pirey found at "Publix"

I have found that "Oil Eater" from Costco will remove just about
anything.  Also, a product called Krud Kutter I found at a local
discount store works pretty well and claims to be thoroughly green.

Our old Dickinson diesel stove had really sooted up the trawler bridge
by the time we got to Sitka this summer.  That cleaning cost me more
than one day of loafing around. I used hot water with "Dawn" dishwashing
liquid and a garden hose to rinse it off. Where it was real bad I used

some

"Comet" cleanser.......very carefully.

Check on why the stove sooted.  Probably the chimney is sooted up
enough to cause the stove to not draft properly.  Perhaps your
chimney is too short?

Oh, be sure and not use a wet/dry vac to clean out the interior of
the stove!  I did that and when I finally looked up from the stove
cleaning, the whole interior of the boat was black from the soot
passing THROUGH the vac's paper bag.  The air was so thick with fine
soot that I could barely see out the windows!  Needless to say, I spent
another day cleaning up the mess in the main cabin, then another day gift
shopping for something (read expensive) to calm the Admiral!

Actually, you don't have to be careful with today's Comet.  It is now
non-abrasive (like Bon Ami) and recommended by several manufacturers of
fiberglass tubs, enclosures and sinks.  I've been using it on my boats
for several years now with great results.  Wet the area your cleaning;
wet a sponge; sprinkle on a liberal amount of Comet and have at it.
Does a great job of taking off black streaks and soot stains.  It's
cheap too.  While it won't harm the gel coat, it will remove wax.

On our sailboat to clean the transom  I used Soft Scrub with bleach on a
Teflon sponge.  Not the scratchy kind, the one made for Teflon pans.  Get

a

pail of water and wet the area, put some Soft Scrub on the sponge side and
use circular motions.  If you get to a spot that is tough to remove, turn
the sponge over and use the Teflon scrubber side (it won't scratch).

Rinse

it off.  NEXT give it a spray of Fantastic Spray/Cleaner and wipe it

clean.

Sounds like doubling up but somehow the Fantastic gets rid of all the
residue of the Soft Scrub and the boat looks squeaky clean.  We don't have
the problem with our powerboat.

And, while I am at it, we arrived home from Alaska with the familiar

"brown

mustache" at the bow.  Guess we didn't get enough wax this spring.  Wax
usually will deter it.  Anyway, I discovered Davis FSR Fiberglass Stain
Remover (got it at West Marine).  It is a blue gel.  Says you can paint it
on.  I just put some in a bucket with a little water and used the boat

brush

to lightly scrub.  Wait a few minutes and rinse with the hose.  Presto!

no

brown.  Also tried it where I had a little rust.  Worked great.

We use "Serious Soap" we get from Fisheries Supply. Will
take off the wax also so your not done when you get the
cleaning part finished.

As for the soot, you might consider the commercial cleaners used to clean
off windows in air tight stoves. They sell that at the hardware store.

Phil Keys
"Kathy K"
1982 Sundowner 30 tug yacht
Port Hadlock, WA 98339


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:48:57 -0700
From: "E16" E16@telus.net
Subject: TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)

Hi Fred

Earlier this year we bought a 41' aft cabin after looking hard at sedans

and

Europa layouts. Like you we were very attracted by the Europa's easy

access,

covered side decks, and its cockpit and salon/galley layout. However,

after

looking at 39, 40 and 47 foot Eropas, we found two unattractive

attributes:

  1. the sleeping accomodation on all Europa models is, at best, very

"cozy".

On the other hand, our boat has an "island queen" in the forward cabin, a
small side cabin with two bunks, and in the aft cabin, two singles against
the sides with a huge, very useable space in between.

  1. we - and most people in the Pacific North-west - drive at the upper

helm

as much as possible because - although this fact is rarely mentioned -

even

with lots of sound insulation, the engine noise inside while under way
quickly becomes aggravating. Also,  the visibility is so much better.
However, access to the upper helm from most Europas is awkward, whereas

from

an aft-cabin, it's a walk.

Every boat's a compromise. You really have to try to project how you will
use the boat, and what's important to you. If you intend to spend lots of
nights aboard, neglect the sleeping arrangements at your peril.

Cheers, Garrett


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:51:38 -0700
From: "E16" E16@telus.net
Subject: TWL: Is this outboard worth working on?

No! Been there, done that.

You could probably buy a new one for what this will likely end up costing
you. ALternatively, you could undoubtedly find a good used one for less

than

the $800.

Cheers, Garrett


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:23:40 -0700
From: pgslo@juno.com
Subject: TWL: Boat interior noise

On Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:48:57 -0700 "E16" E16@telus.net writes:

although this fact is rarely mentioned

  • even
    with lots of sound insulation, the engine noise inside while under
    way
    quickly becomes aggravating.

Interior noise is a function of a combination of poor insulation and poor
engineering rather than stateroom layout or helm location.  Generally
speaking, inexpensive boats are inexpensive because they lack the
engineering and quality and quantity of materials that more expensive
boats exhibit.  "Lots" of sound insulation does not equate with
"adequate" sound insulation.

Sound insulation is a complicated subject that cannot be addressed and
mitigated by just adding lots of cheap insulation.  Sound is transmitted
in a number of different ways, one that would be difficult to discuss
adequately on this list or one that I am qualified to discuss in detail.
But, for just one example, sound is transmitted through plumbing inside
the hull.  If this plumbing is not isolated properly from the hull, sound
transmission can be very annoying.  This type of noise cannot be
addressed by insulation alone.

There are a number of production boats on the market that appear to be a
great value at incredible prices.  Some are built in Asia and some built
in North America. They have very seductive eye appeal.  There are people
on this list who own them and are apparently happy with them.  However,
once you get past the twinkle lights under the bed, the glossy hardwood
veneer interiors, molded in steps to the boat deck, and that Corian
galley counter, you find poorly engineered systems with inferior
materials where many buyers never bother to look - where it matters most.

When looking at a prospective boat for purchase, whether new or used,
start in the engine room and work "backwards."  Hire a surveyor to assist
you if you don't know what to look for.  It is money well spent.  Even
new boat builders should welcome you and your surveyor to walk through
the boat while under construction.  If they don't, WALK!

Adding twinkle lights under the bed is relatively inexpensive compared to
re-engineering a hull and engine room to isolate and eliminate
aggravating engine room noise.

tempus fugit
Patrick


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:26:26 -0400
From: Fred Wunderlich fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com
Subject: TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)

At 1:28 PM -0700 10/8/00, Donald C. Burdick wrote:

Fred:
For us, and particularly here in Pacific Northwest waters, our Europa

style

42 Grand Banks works best for us.  Use of an upper helm is similar with
either configuration, so a few comments about the style differences we

have

found.

[snip..great stuff!]

Donald,

A most excellent and thorough response! Two points which I made particular
note of were your docking tactics and your reference to the less
intimidating ergonomics of the Europa design, particularly for the
physically impaired or ederly. Having driven many sailboats with dangerous
on deck obstacle courses, I certainly appreciate the ease of movement

which

you describe.

I have received a number of responses (so far) to my query. Thank you all.
A couple of folks have already suggested looking at a pilothouse model as
an alternative. A good suggestion and I have considered Nordic and Eagle
and Pacific Trawler.

I will try and summarize the points raised as time goes on.

Since it would appear that Donald has the boat I want....and I somehow
doubt he would part with it for my budget of < 140K...I would specifically
ask what production (glass) boats you would consider? I see very few, if
any, GB 36 Europas available. GB 32 is a bit small. Nordic and Eagle and
Krogen seem a bit out of my price range and Admiral Wife just doesn't like
the look of Pacific Trawlers. (Donald, she wants your boat! ;)) Remember,
we are talking about a "europa" or "sedan" style and now will consider a
pilothouse exploration.

Y'all are great! Thanks again!

fred


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 13:29:37 -0800
From: "Nicholas Fabrello" n.fabrello@worldnet.att.net
Subject: TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)

I have a 40' Willard PH (which may put the price out of your range unless
you are lucky as I was). After owning a 34' CHB for 10 years, I had
definate ideas on what my next boat was going to be. I did not need a
bridge. My previous one ended up being storage. I definitely wanted a
covered back deck. We get a lot of rain and it is a good place to take off
the wet gear and hang it without wetting down the interior of the boat.

And

in the winter, with curtained enclosure, it becomes a sun porch. (I am a
live-aboard) I have a single stateroom forward with a walkaround queen.

For

company, I can sleep two in the pilothouse and two in the salon/saloon. My
three cents....

Nick Fabrello
MV Petite Michelle
40' Willard PH
Ketchikan, AK. 99901


From: Fred Wunderlich fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com
To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com
Subject: TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan)
Date: Sunday, October 08, 2000 9:29 AM

We are a young (ahem-40-something) couple looking at a number of

cruising

options.


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 19:45:39 EDT
From: Stressrelief2@aol.com
Subject: TWL: Dingies

I am buying my first trawler,a P T 41 and have a choice between a 13ft.

hard

dingy or a 10ft.rubber. Either one will be put on the to upper deck when
traveling.What should I do???? I had a 37ft. Sea Ray and have not used a
dingy before. Thanks for the help
Bob G.
PT41 Sea Gypsy


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 20:25:46 -0400
From: Fred Wunderlich fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com
Subject: Re: TWL: Dingies

Bob,

IMO, if you have the deckspace and, more importantly, a very efficient
davit/crane system for hoisting boat and motor, I would opt for the hard
dink. Less maintenance, drives better, tows easier,  rows better and less
expensive would be my main reasons. Also, they are great when filled with
ice and beer during regattas! :) (BTW, if you ever have to row a second or
third anchor out, you will really appreciate a fine rowing dink)

Having said that, most of my experience is with various inflatables. If

you

use your dink for diving or snorkeling or for ferrying very drunk crew

from

bars or boats in the anchorage, you will find the inflatable much more
stable and forgiving and all around more practicle. If you (or your crew)
are a bad driver, you definitely should consider an inflatable.  I would
suggest a hard bottom and would strongly suggest a canvas cover while
stored on deck.

Whatever you decide, do not underestimate the weight of boat and motor and
what you are going to do if your davit(s) or crane fails.

Now, I got a question for you and others. Tell me a little 'bout the PT. I
just saw a listing for a PT 38 -

340&align=left&units=Feet&currency=USD&access=Public&listing_id=1606&page=br
oker

Sorta fits for me, but I don't know anything 'bout PT.

Thanks.

  • -fred

At 7:45 PM -0400 10/8/00, Stressrelief2@aol.com wrote:

I am buying my first trawler,a P T 41 and have a choice between a 13ft.

hard

dingy or a 10ft.rubber. Either one will be put on the to upper deck when
traveling.What should I do???? I had a 37ft. Sea Ray and have not used a
dingy before. Thanks for the help
Bob G.
PT41 Sea Gypsy


Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 21:22:17 -0400
From: Frank Timpano ftimpano@infi.net
Subject: Re: TWL: Rebuilt laptops

My recommendation is an IBM Thinkpad 770. On ebay.com for about $1000.

Lots

of accessories available, too.  Just go to ebay.com and search on IBM 770.

Frank Timpano

At 07:54 AM 10/7/00 -0700, Jean A. Dallmann wrote:

Someone commented about using rebuilt (or reconditioned) laptops the
other day. If anyone has info on where to get them, please let me know.

Michael Wilkie
Jammin'
Lake Tahoe, Cal.


Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 21:35:52 -0500
From: "Maurice Marwood" aepmem@bahamas.net.bs
Subject: TWL: RE: Dingies

I would suggest you read the chapter on dinghies in Tom Neale's book "All

in

the Same Boat". Very informative.

Maurice Marwood
aepmem@bahamas.net.bs

I am buying my first trawler,a P T 41 and have a choice between a 13ft.

hard

dingy or a 10ft.rubber. Either one will be put on the to upper deck when
traveling.What should I do???? I had a 37ft. Sea Ray and have not used a
dingy before. Thanks for the help
Bob G.
PT41 Sea Gypsy


End of trawler-world-list V4 #99


After many years of dreaming, my Admiral and I have been offered an early 'buy out' and are making plans to head south next year. We plan to take the intracoastal to FL and then thru Bahamas to Caribbean & cruise there for a few years. While we cruise the waters from NY to ME extensively every year, we are not sure what we should read/research to help us plan our trip. We have a MT/Tradewinds 43' w/T210 Cummins which serves us well up here in LI/Block Island/Vinyard Sounds - what 'extras' would anyone suggest to clasify as 'got to have' and what guides or other reading material would be helpful for this trip. What do you think o Thanks Capt Bob M/V Rusty Nail Madison, CT ----- Original Message ----- From: trawler-world-list <owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com> To: <trawler-world-list-digest@samurai.com> Sent: Monday, October 09, 2000 12:00 AM Subject: trawler-world-list V4 #99 > > trawler-world-list Monday, October 9 2000 Volume 04 : Number 099 > > > > TWL: Re: Overhead Electronics > TWL: Re: Rebuilt laptops > TWL: Re: trawler-world-list V4 #98: Overhead Electronics > TWL: Fw: Pilothouse night lighting > TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > TWL: Is this outboard worth working on? > Re: TWL: Soot! - how can I clean it off? > TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > TWL: Is this outboard worth working on? > TWL: Boat interior noise > TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > TWL: Dingies > Re: TWL: Dingies > Re: TWL: Rebuilt laptops > TWL: RE: Dingies > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Sat, 7 Oct 2000 21:06:12 -0700 > From: pgslo@juno.com > Subject: TWL: Re: Overhead Electronics > > One theory of instrumentation used by companies like Krogan, Nordhavn, & > Willard on their new boats, is to put instruments that are used > infrequently like engine tach, bilge pump switches, ignition switch, VHF > radio, etc. in the overhead console. Instruments that are used > frequently like radar, depth, GPS, etc. are placed at eye level on the > console in front of the wheel. This appears to be the preference in the > marketplace today as a practical solution to instrument placement. > > > tempus fugit > Patrick > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 00:31:08 -0000 > From: "Ken McQuage" <tobyboat@erols.com> > Subject: TWL: Re: Rebuilt laptops > > John , > > You might like the techsmart.com page - they offer laptops ( and a > ton of other electronics of the office variety ) at their store page and > also you may access their auction page through the b2b exchange header - > then select notebooks .. Most are corp lease returns -checked out by their > techs -- most offer at least a 30 day guarantee -- some are sold as is - if > they are damaged or missing parts - the selection is pretty wide and the > prices are pretty good - either at the store or auction pages .. > > Stuff that they really don't want to fool with they dump onto ebay ... > > I'm sure there are a lot of others of similiar variety .. > > All the Best > Ken > m/v Mrs. Hudson > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 10:50:28 -0400 > From: Howard W Evirs <howardevi@juno.com> > Subject: TWL: Re: trawler-world-list V4 #98: Overhead Electronics > > I totally concur with Tom Little's, John & Judy Tones' and others' reply > to the location of electronics. We own a sun deck trawler with both > upper and lower nav stations. Most of our electronics are located on the > fly bridge, as the lower station offers poor visibility over the high bow > and is used rarely. The fly bridge is covered with a hard top and > enclosed with curtains, such that we have 360 degree visibility. > > Like Tom Little, our radar is located on the console at eye level, just > to the left of the instrument panel. One of our two depth finder is > located directly in front of the center console and wheel. The GPS is > located to the right and feeds its data onto the screen of the radar, so > all of our navigation data is in one place and easily visible at eye > level. Above the console are located the auto pilot, radios and a rarely > used Loran. I can attest that an overhead position is a strain and > inconvenience. Quite often, while awaiting a bridge opening or other > reason to go manual, I'll forget to disconnect the auto pilot, since its > readout requires a real tilt of the head. If radar was so located, one > would miss seeing many critical images. Good luck for a comfortable > layout. > > Capt. Howard Evirs > M/V White Squall > Sea Ranger 46 > No. Palm Beach, FL > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 13:17:48 -0400 > From: "Gayle Roudabush" <skippergr@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: TWL: Fw: Pilothouse night lighting > > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: Gayle Roudabush <skippergr@worldnet.att.net> > To: Georgs Kolesnikovs <georgs@trawlerworld.com> > Sent: Thursday, October 05, 2000 5:55 PM > Subject: Pilothouse night lighting > > > > A couple of weeks ago two of us went to Goderich Canada to bring Classy > Lady > > home between some strong westerlies marching down the Great Lakes. Weather > > was good so the run down Lake Huron was easy & then the St Claire river > was > > also simple. Destination was Detroit so the last open water was Lake St > > Claire--no big deal. It was full dark when we made the turn top follow the > > shipping channel across Lake St Claire. As we cleared the shelter of the > > river, we realized that the wind was up & they were building - seas right > on > > the beam for our planned course. This is a very shallow lake (10-15 ft) > > except for the shipping channel so maneuvering was not a good choice. So > we > > followed the channel staying just outside of the lane to be clear of > > commercial traffic. There was no moon and it was BLACK! As luck would have > > it there were several freighters in the lake, a tug w/2 barges on short > wire > > and then as we were about out of the lake & into sheltered water, a tour > > boat with what looked like a wedding party was headed out into the lake > > passing quite close. Finally in the channel where we never see any > > commercial traffic, a 600 footer was outbound (heading for us) having > > deliverd gravel to a storage yard! > > Now to the point. The light from the plotter, & Interphase were so bright > we > > had to cover them or shut them off. Neither had good dim > capabilities-radar > > was okay. In the sea conditions we were experiencing lights were a real > > problem. Seas were a good 6 ft (on the beam) and the anemometer recorded > 43 > > mph. The light in the pilothouse was to bright to be able to shift eye > > targets from outside to instruments without great difficulty. What has > > anyone done to help in these situations? > > Home safe & glad that trip is over! > > Gayle Roudabush > > Classy Lady AL46-14 > > Detroit MI > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 13:29:02 -0400 > From: Fred Wunderlich <fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com> > Subject: TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > > We are a young (ahem-40-something) couple looking at a number of cruising > options. > > As an ex-charterboat and delivery captain (sail), I have made an executive > decision go with a single screw trawler. Admiral wife likes the decision. > :) We really would like to stay in the 36-40 foot range, both for cost and > handling. Speed is not a huge issue. Purchase budget will max about 140K. > Coastal cruising, ICW and occasionally Bahamas. Obviously we're looking for > an older vessel > > Our current dilema is layout. We both really like the "europa" or "sedan" > layouts vs. the "classic" aft cabin layouts. Our limited experience on > classic layouts has been a very unkindly motion on the flybridge in any > kind of seaway and prefer a cockpit closer to the waterline. We also enjoy > the airiness of a salon with a "porch door". We are willing to sacrifice > the the queen size stateroom for a comfortable and airy salon with covered > cockpit near the waterline. > > I would be very interested in experiences, debate or suggestions. > > Thanks! > > fred > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 06:58:35 -0700 > From: Phil Keys <philkeys@olympus.net> > Subject: TWL: Is this outboard worth working on? > > I have a Mercury 8hp outboard that came with the boat I bought last > year. Its about > 10 years old and sat unused for several years. When I ran it for the first > time it ran > fine, then wouldn't run again. The local outboard repair shop says that > the top crank > seal is spun, probably due to rust on the crank. The top cylinder then > won't hold > compression. They estimate about $600 to replace the seal but warn that > damage > to the crankshaft may make it unusable. > > Does this sound right? Is this engine worth working on? > > Thanks > > > > Phil Keys > "Kathy K" > 1982 Sundowner 30 tug yacht > Port Hadlock, WA 98339 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 11:24:25 -0700 > From: Phil Keys <philkeys@olympus.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Soot! - how can I clean it off? > > >At 06:15 AM 9/28/00 -0700, I wrote: > > >After a season of cruising, I have soot around the smokestack for my diesel > > >stove and a light layer of soot on the transom from the engine > > >exhaust. Both resist being washed off. Does anybody know a slick way of > > >cleaning it off? > > Here's a summary of what the advice I received: > > >We use Pirey found at "Publix" > > > I have found that "Oil Eater" from Costco will remove just about > anything. Also, a product called Krud Kutter I found at a local > discount store works pretty well and claims to be thoroughly green. > > > Our old Dickinson diesel stove had really sooted up the trawler bridge > by the time we got to Sitka this summer. That cleaning cost me more > than one day of loafing around. I used hot water with "Dawn" dishwashing > liquid and a garden hose to rinse it off. Where it was real bad I used some > "Comet" cleanser.......very carefully. > > Check on why the stove sooted. Probably the chimney is sooted up > enough to cause the stove to not draft properly. Perhaps your > chimney is too short? > > Oh, be sure and not use a wet/dry vac to clean out the interior of > the stove! I did that and when I finally looked up from the stove > cleaning, the whole interior of the boat was black from the soot > passing THROUGH the vac's paper bag. The air was so thick with fine > soot that I could barely see out the windows! Needless to say, I spent > another day cleaning up the mess in the main cabin, then another day gift > shopping for something (read expensive) to calm the Admiral! > > > Actually, you don't have to be careful with today's Comet. It is now > non-abrasive (like Bon Ami) and recommended by several manufacturers of > fiberglass tubs, enclosures and sinks. I've been using it on my boats > for several years now with great results. Wet the area your cleaning; > wet a sponge; sprinkle on a liberal amount of Comet and have at it. > Does a great job of taking off black streaks and soot stains. It's > cheap too. While it won't harm the gel coat, it will remove wax. > > > On our sailboat to clean the transom I used Soft Scrub with bleach on a > Teflon sponge. Not the scratchy kind, the one made for Teflon pans. Get a > pail of water and wet the area, put some Soft Scrub on the sponge side and > use circular motions. If you get to a spot that is tough to remove, turn > the sponge over and use the Teflon scrubber side (it won't scratch). Rinse > it off. NEXT give it a spray of Fantastic Spray/Cleaner and wipe it clean. > Sounds like doubling up but somehow the Fantastic gets rid of all the > residue of the Soft Scrub and the boat looks squeaky clean. We don't have > the problem with our powerboat. > > And, while I am at it, we arrived home from Alaska with the familiar "brown > mustache" at the bow. Guess we didn't get enough wax this spring. Wax > usually will deter it. Anyway, I discovered Davis FSR Fiberglass Stain > Remover (got it at West Marine). It is a blue gel. Says you can paint it > on. I just put some in a bucket with a little water and used the boat brush > to lightly scrub. Wait a few minutes and rinse with the hose. Presto! no > brown. Also tried it where I had a little rust. Worked great. > > > We use "Serious Soap" we get from Fisheries Supply. Will > take off the wax also so your not done when you get the > cleaning part finished. > > > As for the soot, you might consider the commercial cleaners used to clean > off windows in air tight stoves. They sell that at the hardware store. > > > > Phil Keys > "Kathy K" > 1982 Sundowner 30 tug yacht > Port Hadlock, WA 98339 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:48:57 -0700 > From: "E16" <E16@telus.net> > Subject: TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > > Hi Fred > > Earlier this year we bought a 41' aft cabin after looking hard at sedans and > Europa layouts. Like you we were very attracted by the Europa's easy access, > covered side decks, and its cockpit and salon/galley layout. However, after > looking at 39, 40 and 47 foot Eropas, we found two unattractive attributes: > > 1) the sleeping accomodation on all Europa models is, at best, very "cozy". > On the other hand, our boat has an "island queen" in the forward cabin, a > small side cabin with two bunks, and in the aft cabin, two singles against > the sides with a huge, very useable space in between. > > 2) we - and most people in the Pacific North-west - drive at the upper helm > as much as possible because - although this fact is rarely mentioned - even > with lots of sound insulation, the engine noise inside while under way > quickly becomes aggravating. Also, the visibility is so much better. > However, access to the upper helm from most Europas is awkward, whereas from > an aft-cabin, it's a walk. > > Every boat's a compromise. You really have to try to project how you will > use the boat, and what's important to you. If you intend to spend lots of > nights aboard, neglect the sleeping arrangements at your peril. > > Cheers, Garrett > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:51:38 -0700 > From: "E16" <E16@telus.net> > Subject: TWL: Is this outboard worth working on? > > No! Been there, done that. > > You could probably buy a new one for what this will likely end up costing > you. ALternatively, you could undoubtedly find a good used one for less than > the $800. > > Cheers, Garrett > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 14:23:40 -0700 > From: pgslo@juno.com > Subject: TWL: Boat interior noise > > On Sun, 8 Oct 2000 12:48:57 -0700 "E16" <E16@telus.net> writes: > > although this fact is rarely mentioned > > - even > > with lots of sound insulation, the engine noise inside while under > > way > > quickly becomes aggravating. > > Interior noise is a function of a combination of poor insulation and poor > engineering rather than stateroom layout or helm location. Generally > speaking, inexpensive boats are inexpensive because they lack the > engineering and quality and quantity of materials that more expensive > boats exhibit. "Lots" of sound insulation does not equate with > "adequate" sound insulation. > > Sound insulation is a complicated subject that cannot be addressed and > mitigated by just adding lots of cheap insulation. Sound is transmitted > in a number of different ways, one that would be difficult to discuss > adequately on this list or one that I am qualified to discuss in detail. > But, for just one example, sound is transmitted through plumbing inside > the hull. If this plumbing is not isolated properly from the hull, sound > transmission can be very annoying. This type of noise cannot be > addressed by insulation alone. > > There are a number of production boats on the market that appear to be a > great value at incredible prices. Some are built in Asia and some built > in North America. They have very seductive eye appeal. There are people > on this list who own them and are apparently happy with them. However, > once you get past the twinkle lights under the bed, the glossy hardwood > veneer interiors, molded in steps to the boat deck, and that Corian > galley counter, you find poorly engineered systems with inferior > materials where many buyers never bother to look - where it matters most. > > When looking at a prospective boat for purchase, whether new or used, > start in the engine room and work "backwards." Hire a surveyor to assist > you if you don't know what to look for. It is money well spent. Even > new boat builders should welcome you and your surveyor to walk through > the boat while under construction. If they don't, WALK! > > Adding twinkle lights under the bed is relatively inexpensive compared to > re-engineering a hull and engine room to isolate and eliminate > aggravating engine room noise. > > > tempus fugit > Patrick > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 17:26:26 -0400 > From: Fred Wunderlich <fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com> > Subject: TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > > At 1:28 PM -0700 10/8/00, Donald C. Burdick wrote: > >Fred: > >For us, and particularly here in Pacific Northwest waters, our Europa style > >42 Grand Banks works best for us. Use of an upper helm is similar with > >either configuration, so a few comments about the style differences we have > >found. > > > >[snip..great stuff!] > > Donald, > > A most excellent and thorough response! Two points which I made particular > note of were your docking tactics and your reference to the less > intimidating ergonomics of the Europa design, particularly for the > physically impaired or ederly. Having driven many sailboats with dangerous > on deck obstacle courses, I certainly appreciate the ease of movement which > you describe. > > I have received a number of responses (so far) to my query. Thank you all. > A couple of folks have already suggested looking at a pilothouse model as > an alternative. A good suggestion and I have considered Nordic and Eagle > and Pacific Trawler. > > I will try and summarize the points raised as time goes on. > > Since it would appear that Donald has the boat I want....and I somehow > doubt he would part with it for my budget of < 140K...I would specifically > ask what production (glass) boats you would consider? I see very few, if > any, GB 36 Europas available. GB 32 is a bit small. Nordic and Eagle and > Krogen seem a bit out of my price range and Admiral Wife just doesn't like > the look of Pacific Trawlers. (Donald, she wants your boat! ;)) Remember, > we are talking about a "europa" or "sedan" style and now will consider a > pilothouse exploration. > > Y'all are great! Thanks again! > > fred > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 13:29:37 -0800 > From: "Nicholas Fabrello" <n.fabrello@worldnet.att.net> > Subject: TWL: Re: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > > I have a 40' Willard PH (which may put the price out of your range unless > you are lucky as I was). After owning a 34' CHB for 10 years, I had > definate ideas on what my next boat was going to be. I did not need a > bridge. My previous one ended up being storage. I definitely wanted a > covered back deck. We get a lot of rain and it is a good place to take off > the wet gear and hang it without wetting down the interior of the boat. And > in the winter, with curtained enclosure, it becomes a sun porch. (I am a > live-aboard) I have a single stateroom forward with a walkaround queen. For > company, I can sleep two in the pilothouse and two in the salon/saloon. My > three cents.... > > Nick Fabrello > MV Petite Michelle > 40' Willard PH > Ketchikan, AK. 99901 > > > - ---------- > > From: Fred Wunderlich <fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com> > > To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com > > Subject: TWL: Classic vs. Europa(Sedan) > > Date: Sunday, October 08, 2000 9:29 AM > > > > We are a young (ahem-40-something) couple looking at a number of cruising > > options. > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 19:45:39 EDT > From: Stressrelief2@aol.com > Subject: TWL: Dingies > > I am buying my first trawler,a P T 41 and have a choice between a 13ft. hard > dingy or a 10ft.rubber. Either one will be put on the to upper deck when > traveling.What should I do???? I had a 37ft. Sea Ray and have not used a > dingy before. Thanks for the help > Bob G. > PT41 Sea Gypsy > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 20:25:46 -0400 > From: Fred Wunderlich <fwunder@eastwindgraphics.com> > Subject: Re: TWL: Dingies > > Bob, > > IMO, if you have the deckspace and, more importantly, a _very_ efficient > davit/crane system for hoisting boat and motor, I would opt for the hard > dink. Less maintenance, drives better, tows easier, rows better and less > expensive would be my main reasons. Also, they are great when filled with > ice and beer during regattas! :) (BTW, if you ever have to row a second or > third anchor out, you will really appreciate a fine rowing dink) > > Having said that, most of my experience is with various inflatables. If you > use your dink for diving or snorkeling or for ferrying very drunk crew from > bars or boats in the anchorage, you will find the inflatable much more > stable and forgiving and all around more practicle. If you (or your crew) > are a bad driver, you definitely should consider an inflatable. I would > suggest a hard bottom and would strongly suggest a canvas cover while > stored on deck. > > Whatever you decide, do not underestimate the weight of boat and motor and > what you are going to do if your davit(s) or crane fails. > > Now, I got a question for you and others. Tell me a little 'bout the PT. I > just saw a listing for a PT 38 - > > http://www.charlestonyachtsales.com/boats/view_more_boat.cgi.en?url=&boat_id =704 > 340&align=left&units=Feet&currency=USD&access=Public&listing_id=1606&page=br oker > > Sorta fits for me, but I don't know anything 'bout PT. > > Thanks. > > - -fred > > At 7:45 PM -0400 10/8/00, Stressrelief2@aol.com wrote: > >I am buying my first trawler,a P T 41 and have a choice between a 13ft. hard > >dingy or a 10ft.rubber. Either one will be put on the to upper deck when > >traveling.What should I do???? I had a 37ft. Sea Ray and have not used a > >dingy before. Thanks for the help > > Bob G. > > PT41 Sea Gypsy > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 08 Oct 2000 21:22:17 -0400 > From: Frank Timpano <ftimpano@infi.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Rebuilt laptops > > My recommendation is an IBM Thinkpad 770. On ebay.com for about $1000. Lots > of accessories available, too. Just go to ebay.com and search on IBM 770. > > Frank Timpano > > > At 07:54 AM 10/7/00 -0700, Jean A. Dallmann wrote: > > Someone commented about using rebuilt (or reconditioned) laptops the > >other day. If anyone has info on where to get them, please let me know. > > > > Michael Wilkie > > Jammin' > > Lake Tahoe, Cal. > > > > > > > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Sun, 8 Oct 2000 21:35:52 -0500 > From: "Maurice Marwood" <aepmem@bahamas.net.bs> > Subject: TWL: RE: Dingies > > I would suggest you read the chapter on dinghies in Tom Neale's book "All in > the Same Boat". Very informative. > > Maurice Marwood > aepmem@bahamas.net.bs > > I am buying my first trawler,a P T 41 and have a choice between a 13ft. hard > dingy or a 10ft.rubber. Either one will be put on the to upper deck when > traveling.What should I do???? I had a 37ft. Sea Ray and have not used a > dingy before. Thanks for the help > Bob G. > PT41 Sea Gypsy > > ------------------------------ > > End of trawler-world-list V4 #99 > ******************************** >
J
jmccpa@ix.netcom.com
Tue, Oct 10, 2000 1:46 AM

At 05:56 PM 10/9/00 -0400, you wrote:

After many years of dreaming, my Admiral and I have been offered an early
'buy out' and are making plans to head south next year.  We plan to take the
intracoastal to FL and then thru Bahamas to Caribbean & cruise there for a
few years.  ....

Over the past two years, MV Liquidity (52' Offshore motor sedan) has made
the run from Bahamas-Florida-NY+ and back twice. The Waterways Guides have
been generally useful but we have found the guide "Intercoastal  Waterway
from Norfolk to Jacksonville "even better for that area.  There are several
essential guides for the Bahamas and if you want more info contact by
direct email. We have also found a chart plotter interfaced with GPS very
useful (we actually have two - a Northstar 951XD on the bridge and we use
Jeppesen software with a desk top computer under dash on bridge  and
sunbright display on the bridge and a laptop with the same software in the
pilot house but interfaced with an independent Raytheon GPS.

Radar is useful and while I usually run it at all times,we have not found
it that  important except in the rare times we are running in  fog and or
at night.

If you plan extensive time in the Bahamas, especially in the Exuma chain, a
watermaker is a great convenience - potable water is only available in a
few ports and then its expensive.

We use a hand-held analog cell phone hooked up to a 3 watt Mortola booster
with a 4' antenna for communication. We have successfully interfaced with a
fax and have gotten on the net on the entire east coast.  However, most US
carriers have no reciprocity for roaming in the Bahamas.

Our usual routine between Ft. Lauderdale and Norfolk has been to run
outside if the seas or 4-5' or less til early-mid pm and then duck inside
to be sure we are at a marina or anchorage well before dark. You need to
pick your inlets carefully - some are easy and others not so.  If you have
the range and want to make time, some long runs outside over 24-36 hours
can be made. We ran from Norfolk, Va to Montauk Point NY with only a brief
stop in Mannesquan NJ for fuel - did over 300nm in less than 30 hours.

If at home type entertainment is important, a satellite TV antenna and
receiver can be used even in the Bahamas until a point about 20 nm north of
Georgetown, Exuma.

I don't represent that all the above is essential but it sure made for
comfortable cruising with all the creature comforts of home and more.

Joe & Myra Chernow , retired (plus boat dog and boat cat)
MV Liquidity
(Now in Singapore having visited Taiwan to inspect new boat before shipment)

At 05:56 PM 10/9/00 -0400, you wrote: >After many years of dreaming, my Admiral and I have been offered an early >'buy out' and are making plans to head south next year. We plan to take the >intracoastal to FL and then thru Bahamas to Caribbean & cruise there for a >few years. .... Over the past two years, MV Liquidity (52' Offshore motor sedan) has made the run from Bahamas-Florida-NY+ and back twice. The Waterways Guides have been generally useful but we have found the guide "Intercoastal Waterway from Norfolk to Jacksonville "even better for that area. There are several essential guides for the Bahamas and if you want more info contact by direct email. We have also found a chart plotter interfaced with GPS very useful (we actually have two - a Northstar 951XD on the bridge and we use Jeppesen software with a desk top computer under dash on bridge and sunbright display on the bridge and a laptop with the same software in the pilot house but interfaced with an independent Raytheon GPS. Radar is useful and while I usually run it at all times,we have not found it that important except in the rare times we are running in fog and or at night. If you plan extensive time in the Bahamas, especially in the Exuma chain, a watermaker is a great convenience - potable water is only available in a few ports and then its expensive. We use a hand-held analog cell phone hooked up to a 3 watt Mortola booster with a 4' antenna for communication. We have successfully interfaced with a fax and have gotten on the net on the entire east coast. However, most US carriers have no reciprocity for roaming in the Bahamas. Our usual routine between Ft. Lauderdale and Norfolk has been to run outside if the seas or 4-5' or less til early-mid pm and then duck inside to be sure we are at a marina or anchorage well before dark. You need to pick your inlets carefully - some are easy and others not so. If you have the range and want to make time, some long runs outside over 24-36 hours can be made. We ran from Norfolk, Va to Montauk Point NY with only a brief stop in Mannesquan NJ for fuel - did over 300nm in less than 30 hours. If at home type entertainment is important, a satellite TV antenna and receiver can be used even in the Bahamas until a point about 20 nm north of Georgetown, Exuma. I don't represent that all the above is essential but it sure made for comfortable cruising with all the creature comforts of home and more. Joe & Myra Chernow , retired (plus boat dog and boat cat) MV Liquidity (Now in Singapore having visited Taiwan to inspect new boat before shipment)