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Re; chain counter

BD
Butch Dalton
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 11:53 AM

I have a new Lewmar H2 windlass and 300' of chain. I had ordered the Lewmar
remote control with chain counter but the dealer is raising some issues with
the counter as far as reliability. It's simply a small magnet epoxied to the
inside of the gypsy and a sensor that detects each time the gypsy rotates and
calculates the amount of chain taken in and let out. Does anyone have any
experience with this or any other chain counter? This is my first all chain
rode - what are my options for measuring chain if the counter doesn't work
out? Thanks in advance for your experience and expertise.

Butch Dalton
43 Albin Dog Days III

I have a new Lewmar H2 windlass and 300' of chain. I had ordered the Lewmar remote control with chain counter but the dealer is raising some issues with the counter as far as reliability. It's simply a small magnet epoxied to the inside of the gypsy and a sensor that detects each time the gypsy rotates and calculates the amount of chain taken in and let out. Does anyone have any experience with this or any other chain counter? This is my first all chain rode - what are my options for measuring chain if the counter doesn't work out? Thanks in advance for your experience and expertise. Butch Dalton 43 Albin Dog Days III
BM
Bob McLeran
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 12:34 PM

Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint
(spray or brush). I used a day-glow orange and it is great! I might have
to repaint every 2-3 years, but it's about as "KISS" as you can get.

IMHO, you don't need to know the exact length of chain out of the
locker; if the count is within 10-20 feet that's just fine, and with
marks every 25 feet you can estimate the length of chain between marks,
if it would really matter that much.

<><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><>
Bob McLeran and Judy Young                  Manatee Cove Marina
MV Sanderling                              Patrick Air Force Base
DeFever 41 Trawler                          Melbourne, Florida

On 3/6/2008 6:53 AM, Butch Dalton wrote:

This is my first all chain
rode - what are my options for measuring chain if the counter doesn't work
out? Thanks in advance for your experience and expertise.

Butch Dalton
43 Albin Dog Days III

Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint (spray or brush). I used a day-glow orange and it is great! I might have to repaint every 2-3 years, but it's about as "KISS" as you can get. IMHO, you don't need to know the exact length of chain out of the locker; if the count is within 10-20 feet that's just fine, and with marks every 25 feet you can estimate the length of chain between marks, if it would really matter that much. <><><><><><><><><><><><>Mozilla Thunderbird<><><><><><><><><><> Bob McLeran and Judy Young Manatee Cove Marina MV Sanderling Patrick Air Force Base DeFever 41 Trawler Melbourne, Florida On 3/6/2008 6:53 AM, Butch Dalton wrote: > This is my first all chain > rode - what are my options for measuring chain if the counter doesn't work > out? Thanks in advance for your experience and expertise. > > Butch Dalton > 43 Albin Dog Days III
RA
Rudy and Jill Sechez
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 1:02 PM

We find that short loops of yellow polypropylene inserted into the links with the ends lashed together works well and are: easily seen, easily felt and self-cleaning.  We space ours every 25 feet- one loop at 25, two loops at 50, three loops at 75, four loops at 100, then we start over.  They have shown no hesitation to go through our wildcat and hold up for years, even with the heavy use we give them.  For rope, we space, same as the loops, whippings which we paint black.  Both methods are easy, cheap and easily seen at night.  We've tried other methods, but have settled on this approach.  Maybe something said here will stimulate a successful solution for your situation.

Rudy and Jill Sechez
Briney Bug, Sanford, Fl; but leaving for the Bahamas in 2-3 weeks.


Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.

We find that short loops of yellow polypropylene inserted into the links with the ends lashed together works well and are: easily seen, easily felt and self-cleaning. We space ours every 25 feet- one loop at 25, two loops at 50, three loops at 75, four loops at 100, then we start over. They have shown no hesitation to go through our wildcat and hold up for years, even with the heavy use we give them. For rope, we space, same as the loops, whippings which we paint black. Both methods are easy, cheap and easily seen at night. We've tried other methods, but have settled on this approach. Maybe something said here will stimulate a successful solution for your situation. Rudy and Jill Sechez Briney Bug, Sanford, Fl; but leaving for the Bahamas in 2-3 weeks. --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
RC
R C Smith Jr
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 1:32 PM

Bob McLeran wrote:

Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint

Start by figuring your minimum scope. 5 ft draft plus 7 ft to pulpit times 7
(prudent scope ratio, adjust for your own comfort level) is 84. Paint that
length as your first mark, using Bob's method above. Each additional foot of
water depth is 7 more ft of chain. I suggest you make marks for water depths
of 5, 10, 15, etc. at chain lengths of 85, 120, 155, etc....or higher depth
intervals, depending on your cruising area.

I use red paint for my first mark, blue for the second, red and blue for the
third..and I add colored wire ties, several at each mark, cause the paint
wears off and you can feel them at night.

In truth, I do not use the water depth method, mine is marked at 50, 100,
150 of chain length. But, when I reverse my chain, I will mark by water
depth. I feel it gently encourages you to put out the right amount of scope
each time....and you skip the arithmetic.

Bob


R C Smith Jr
M/V MARY KATHRYN
1977 Hatteras 58 LRC
Jib Room
Marsh Harbour, Abaco
BAHAMAS

Bob McLeran wrote: > Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint Start by figuring your minimum scope. 5 ft draft plus 7 ft to pulpit times 7 (prudent scope ratio, adjust for your own comfort level) is 84. Paint that length as your first mark, using Bob's method above. Each additional foot of water depth is 7 more ft of chain. I suggest you make marks for water depths of 5, 10, 15, etc. at chain lengths of 85, 120, 155, etc....or higher depth intervals, depending on your cruising area. I use red paint for my first mark, blue for the second, red and blue for the third..and I add colored wire ties, several at each mark, cause the paint wears off and you can feel them at night. In truth, I do not use the water depth method, mine is marked at 50, 100, 150 of chain length. But, when I reverse my chain, I will mark by water depth. I feel it gently encourages you to put out the right amount of scope each time....and you skip the arithmetic. Bob ____________________ R C Smith Jr M/V MARY KATHRYN 1977 Hatteras 58 LRC Jib Room Marsh Harbour, Abaco BAHAMAS
DK
Dale Klahn
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 4:42 PM

Can you explain a bit more about why and when you would reverse the
chain?

Dale Klahn

"R C Smith Jr" rcsmith@garrett-smith.com 8:32 AM 3/6/08 >>>

...But, when I reverse my chain, I will mark by water
depth. I feel it gently encourages you to put out the right amount of
scope
each time....and you skip the arithmetic.

Bob


R C Smith Jr
M/V MARY KATHRYN
1977 Hatteras 58 LRC
Jib Room
Marsh Harbour, Abaco
BAHAMAS


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Can you explain a bit more about why and when you would reverse the chain? Dale Klahn >>> "R C Smith Jr" <rcsmith@garrett-smith.com> 8:32 AM 3/6/08 >>> ...But, when I reverse my chain, I will mark by water depth. I feel it gently encourages you to put out the right amount of scope each time....and you skip the arithmetic. Bob ____________________ R C Smith Jr M/V MARY KATHRYN 1977 Hatteras 58 LRC Jib Room Marsh Harbour, Abaco BAHAMAS _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/options/trawlers-and-trawlering Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.
PM
Peter McCorison
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 4:51 PM

Even simpler, Coho uses wire ties run through the links every 25 ft.
It's easy to see them as they flip overboard.

Regards,
Peter McCorison
M/B Coho 50' Marco trawler; 1955

Bob McLeran wrote:

Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint

Even simpler, Coho uses wire ties run through the links every 25 ft. It's easy to see them as they flip overboard. Regards, Peter McCorison M/B Coho 50' Marco trawler; 1955 Bob McLeran wrote: > Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint
PG
Pascal Gademer
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 5:10 PM

it really depends on how you use the boat. I usually run single handed so i
like to control the boat from teh flybridge when anchoring and use a  a
remote switch.  Problem with electric ties is that you cant' see them from a
distance...  I also often anchor at night so i need the markings to be
visible with a spot light aimed at the bow.

I use paint marks..  i'm a big fan of the KISS method...  so 1 short (6")
for 25', 1 long (15") for 100'...  so 3' short is 75...  1 long 2 short
150, etc..

white is hard to see with dried mud... yellow doesnt show well at night...
orange or red are best.

jsut what works for ME.  but i woudn't bother with counters, etc..

pascal
miami, fl
70 hatteras 53MY
live helmcam @ www.sandbarhopper.com

it really depends on how you use the boat. I usually run single handed so i like to control the boat from teh flybridge when anchoring and use a a remote switch. Problem with electric ties is that you cant' see them from a distance... I also often anchor at night so i need the markings to be visible with a spot light aimed at the bow. I use paint marks.. i'm a big fan of the KISS method... so 1 short (6") for 25', 1 long (15") for 100'... so 3' short is 75... 1 long 2 short 150, etc.. white is hard to see with dried mud... yellow doesnt show well at night... orange or red are best. jsut what works for ME. but i woudn't bother with counters, etc.. pascal miami, fl 70 hatteras 53MY live helmcam @ www.sandbarhopper.com
JS
Jeffrey Siegel
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 5:36 PM

white is hard to see with dried mud... yellow doesn't
show well at night... orange or red are best.

I'm a paint guy too.  I've used white, gray, yellow, and day-glow orange
(the stuff that utility companies spray to mark gas lines, underground
utilities, etc).  The day-glow paint is the best.

I use:
1 dash for 25'
2 dashes for 50'
3 dashes for 75'
4 dashes for 100'
...then repeat

I've never had a problem forgetting which "hundred" I was on especially
since I rarely let out more than 200'.  Even when I do let out 250', the
last few paint marks are so new looking that it's obvious.  We also mark our
position when we drop the anchor and know how much chain has been let out
via GPS too.

---=
Jeffrey Siegel
M/V aCappella
DeFever 53PH
W1ACA/WDB4350
Castine, Maine

www.activecaptain.com
Content, Communications, Community

..

> white is hard to see with dried mud... yellow doesn't > show well at night... orange or red are best. > I'm a paint guy too. I've used white, gray, yellow, and day-glow orange (the stuff that utility companies spray to mark gas lines, underground utilities, etc). The day-glow paint is the best. I use: 1 dash for 25' 2 dashes for 50' 3 dashes for 75' 4 dashes for 100' ...then repeat I've never had a problem forgetting which "hundred" I was on especially since I rarely let out more than 200'. Even when I do let out 250', the last few paint marks are so new looking that it's obvious. We also mark our position when we drop the anchor and know how much chain has been let out via GPS too. ================================== Jeffrey Siegel M/V aCappella DeFever 53PH W1ACA/WDB4350 Castine, Maine www.activecaptain.com Content, Communications, Community ..
PG
Pascal Gademer
Thu, Mar 6, 2008 5:49 PM

me too.. I find the GPS to be a great tool when you dont' have many things
to take bearings on... I zoom in, mark on dropping. Once set, I can see
gusts on the distance read out as the chain lifts off the bottom and then
comes back down.

it's also a good tool to check the swinging pattern after a while and make
sure you are holding.

that said, it's often hard to use it to guestimate scope since you never
know how quickly the anchor dug in and set.  could be 10' could be 25'... or
50'

pascal
maimi, fl
70 hatteras 53MY
live helm cam @ wwwsandbarhopper.com

----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeffrey Siegel" jeff@activecaptain.com

We also mark our

position when we drop the anchor and know how much chain has been let out
via GPS too.

me too.. I find the GPS to be a great tool when you dont' have many things to take bearings on... I zoom in, mark on dropping. Once set, I can see gusts on the distance read out as the chain lifts off the bottom and then comes back down. it's also a good tool to check the swinging pattern after a while and make sure you are holding. that said, it's often hard to use it to guestimate scope since you never know how quickly the anchor dug in and set. could be 10' could be 25'... or 50' pascal maimi, fl 70 hatteras 53MY live helm cam @ wwwsandbarhopper.com ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeffrey Siegel" <jeff@activecaptain.com> We also mark our > position when we drop the anchor and know how much chain has been let out > via GPS too.
J
joe
Fri, Mar 7, 2008 4:02 AM

I've used wire ties however they tend to break off and fall into the chain
lockers where they are very difficult to remove and may result in an
eventual restriction or blockage to the locker overboard drain.  I've since
removed them and am using paint, a zinc oxide primer then a compatible
enamel.  I don't know how long the paint will last but it does not involve
the risk of contributing to the drain clogging debris in the chain lockers.

Joe
"Carolyn Ann" N-37

-----Original Message-----
From:
trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces+joseph.pica=gmail.com@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces+joseph.pica=gmail.com@lists.samurai.
com] On Behalf Of Peter McCorison
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:51 AM
To: Bob McLeran; Trawlers & Trawlering
Subject: Re: T&T: Re; chain counter

Even simpler, Coho uses wire ties run through the links every 25 ft.
It's easy to see them as they flip overboard.

Regards,
Peter McCorison
M/B Coho 50' Marco trawler; 1955

Bob McLeran wrote:

Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint


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I've used wire ties however they tend to break off and fall into the chain lockers where they are very difficult to remove and may result in an eventual restriction or blockage to the locker overboard drain. I've since removed them and am using paint, a zinc oxide primer then a compatible enamel. I don't know how long the paint will last but it does not involve the risk of contributing to the drain clogging debris in the chain lockers. Joe "Carolyn Ann" N-37 -----Original Message----- From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces+joseph.pica=gmail.com@lists.samurai.com [mailto:trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces+joseph.pica=gmail.com@lists.samurai. com] On Behalf Of Peter McCorison Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:51 AM To: Bob McLeran; Trawlers & Trawlering Subject: Re: T&T: Re; chain counter Even simpler, Coho uses wire ties run through the links every 25 ft. It's easy to see them as they flip overboard. Regards, Peter McCorison M/B Coho 50' Marco trawler; 1955 Bob McLeran wrote: > Mark the chain every 20 or 25 feet with a bright colored Rustoleum paint _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe or modify your subscription options (get password, change email address, etc) go to: http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/options/trawlers-and-trawlering Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.