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Keel shoe (was: sacrificial steel strip beneath the keel)

MB
Milt Baker
Tue, Apr 5, 2005 10:40 PM

Thanks to everyone for the ideas on a sacrificial steel strip
beneath the keel.  I have just learned this is properly called a keel
shoe.

In my behalf, Bruce Kessler contacted a former Northern Marine expert
familiar with the process, and here's what Bruce reported:

  1. Northern originally used to use 304 stainless steel plate which
    proved to rust too much, so they then tried 308 and 316 stainless,
    but because of the high price of 308 and 316 they are now using epoxy
    coated A36 steel.

  2. For a Nordhavn 47, the steel should be a minimum of ½ inch
    thick. Larger yachts might use steel up to 1½ inches thick.

  3. At Northern, the steel which will eventually make up the keel shoe
    is cut into sections to fit the keel, with the fore and aft edges
    beveled at a 45 degree angle. The steel is then drilled and tapped
    for large counter-sunk flathead bolts.

  4. Once the steel has been cut to fit, drilled, and tapped, it is
    fastened to the boat using the flathead bolts tapped into the
    fiberglass keel. In addition to the mechanical bond with the bolts,
    3M5200 is used liberally along the entire length of the keel.

  5. A means needs to be provided for getting a bonding wire or strap
    from inside the hull to make solid electrical contact with the keel
    shoe. This is typically done before the 5200 gets into the act.

  6. Once the 5200 has dried, the beveled pieces of steel are welded
    together to create a single solid unit to make up the keel shoe.

  7. When the process is completed, the steel is coated with two coasts
    of epoxy primer and bottom paint.

--Milt Baker, N47-32, shipping late April

Thanks to everyone for the ideas on a sacrificial steel strip beneath the keel. I have just learned this is properly called a keel shoe. In my behalf, Bruce Kessler contacted a former Northern Marine expert familiar with the process, and here's what Bruce reported: 1. Northern originally used to use 304 stainless steel plate which proved to rust too much, so they then tried 308 and 316 stainless, but because of the high price of 308 and 316 they are now using epoxy coated A36 steel. 2. For a Nordhavn 47, the steel should be a minimum of ½ inch thick. Larger yachts might use steel up to 1½ inches thick. 3. At Northern, the steel which will eventually make up the keel shoe is cut into sections to fit the keel, with the fore and aft edges beveled at a 45 degree angle. The steel is then drilled and tapped for large counter-sunk flathead bolts. 4. Once the steel has been cut to fit, drilled, and tapped, it is fastened to the boat using the flathead bolts tapped into the fiberglass keel. In addition to the mechanical bond with the bolts, 3M5200 is used liberally along the entire length of the keel. 5. A means needs to be provided for getting a bonding wire or strap from inside the hull to make solid electrical contact with the keel shoe. This is typically done before the 5200 gets into the act. 6. Once the 5200 has dried, the beveled pieces of steel are welded together to create a single solid unit to make up the keel shoe. 7. When the process is completed, the steel is coated with two coasts of epoxy primer and bottom paint. --Milt Baker, N47-32, shipping late April
RR
Ron Rogers
Wed, Apr 6, 2005 1:12 AM

{8^)) I'm glad Northern Marine is adhering to my advice! Perhaps one of the
bolts could go through into the bilge near a bonding location.

Shouldn't the steel be sandblasted prior to mounting to give a toothy
surface for the epoxy to bond to? I realize Northern knows more than  I do,
but one could ask.
Ron Rogers

{8^)) I'm glad Northern Marine is adhering to my advice! Perhaps one of the bolts could go through into the bilge near a bonding location. Shouldn't the steel be sandblasted prior to mounting to give a toothy surface for the epoxy to bond to? I realize Northern knows more than I do, but one could ask. Ron Rogers