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Cruising America's Great Loop and other inland routes

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Down East Loop (Was GL Fort Edward Magazine

JF
J.E. Fordyce
Tue, Dec 15, 2015 5:21 PM

Captain Mimi,

You might have a look at our blog from last summer. We went from Lake
Ontario to Maine. It sounds as if you might be thinking of doing it going
the other way, which is a bit tougher and requires close attention to the
tides.

http://adagioonegoesdowneast.wordpress.com

Also, below is an excerpt of a note I sent recently to Georgs Kolesnikovs,
who is looking at doing the trip. It may be of some help to you.

We have just hauled Adagio I at Southwest Harbor, Maine for  the season
after a three and a half month trip which started at Brewerton NY on the
Erie Canal where we stored last winter. Starting in late May, we traveled to
Oswego and Kingston ON, then through the Rideau canal to Ottawa and on to
Montreal via the Ottawa River and then to Quebec City where we left the boat
for about 10 days to go back to Toronto for our son's wedding. Then to
Tadoussac and the Saguenay. From Tadoussac, we crossed to the south shore
and worked our way around Gaspe, into New Brunswick, then PEI and up to the
Magdalen Islands. From there to Cape Breton and then a foggy four days to
Halifax. Then along the south shore to Yarmouth, Grand Manan island and
Maine. We will continue next season, bringing the boat back to Georgian Bay
for the first time in four years, via New York the Hudson and the Erie
Canal.

Although our weather was middling, such that we decided to forego
Newfoundland, it was a fascinating trip and we would highly recommend it.
Highlights included the Rideau Canal which is very pretty and a really
intimate waterway. (We were early in the season and almost alone. The lock
staff took very good care of us as we are on the cusp of being too deep to
go through.) Although rainy, Montreal was a great stop. Like others, we also
recommend the Old Port, particularly, the Yacht Club de Montreal, which is
the first one as you work your way upstream against a strong current. Quebec
was also a highlight, although we have friends and family there which
doubled the fun. The marina in Bassin Louise (where there is a tidal lock)
is great. Very close to everything.

The vistas of the north shore between Quebec and Tadoussac are stunning, as
is the whale watching off Tadoussac and up the Saguenay fiord (which is very
scenic). Other highlights were the Magdalen Islands and Cape Breton. We
rented a car in both places, which was well worthwhile. The Bras d'Or Lake
is a cruising delight. We also enjoyed Halifax, Lunenburg and the South
Shore as well as the many small fishing ports where we sheltered on our way.
The people we met everywhere were just outstandingly friendly and helpful.

We recommend Cheryl Barr's books, particularly for the advice on dealing
with tides. She is spot on. The St. Lawrence River tidal current atlas is
very helpful, but you can get by with the tide tables and Barr's guides. It
is also useful if you charting program has tide tables embedded. As long as
they are up to date it saves a lot of trouble looking up the tide tables and
adjusting for secondary ports. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality
of cell phone coverage we had. There were very few areas where we could not
get cell service from the Canadian providers.

Hope this will encourage more cruisers to visit.

Hope this is a good starting point for you. We have also done the Seaway
locks between Montreal and Lake Ontario as well as the Welland Canal between
Lakes Ontario and Erie. The other route to Lake Erie is via the Erie Canal,
if you have height of less than 15 feet.

Let me know if you need anything else.

J.E. Fordyce

Toronto ON

Adagio I

Kadey Krogen 48 Whaleback

Currently stored at Southwest Harbor ME

Captain Mimi, You might have a look at our blog from last summer. We went from Lake Ontario to Maine. It sounds as if you might be thinking of doing it going the other way, which is a bit tougher and requires close attention to the tides. http://adagioonegoesdowneast.wordpress.com Also, below is an excerpt of a note I sent recently to Georgs Kolesnikovs, who is looking at doing the trip. It may be of some help to you. We have just hauled Adagio I at Southwest Harbor, Maine for the season after a three and a half month trip which started at Brewerton NY on the Erie Canal where we stored last winter. Starting in late May, we traveled to Oswego and Kingston ON, then through the Rideau canal to Ottawa and on to Montreal via the Ottawa River and then to Quebec City where we left the boat for about 10 days to go back to Toronto for our son's wedding. Then to Tadoussac and the Saguenay. From Tadoussac, we crossed to the south shore and worked our way around Gaspe, into New Brunswick, then PEI and up to the Magdalen Islands. From there to Cape Breton and then a foggy four days to Halifax. Then along the south shore to Yarmouth, Grand Manan island and Maine. We will continue next season, bringing the boat back to Georgian Bay for the first time in four years, via New York the Hudson and the Erie Canal. Although our weather was middling, such that we decided to forego Newfoundland, it was a fascinating trip and we would highly recommend it. Highlights included the Rideau Canal which is very pretty and a really intimate waterway. (We were early in the season and almost alone. The lock staff took very good care of us as we are on the cusp of being too deep to go through.) Although rainy, Montreal was a great stop. Like others, we also recommend the Old Port, particularly, the Yacht Club de Montreal, which is the first one as you work your way upstream against a strong current. Quebec was also a highlight, although we have friends and family there which doubled the fun. The marina in Bassin Louise (where there is a tidal lock) is great. Very close to everything. The vistas of the north shore between Quebec and Tadoussac are stunning, as is the whale watching off Tadoussac and up the Saguenay fiord (which is very scenic). Other highlights were the Magdalen Islands and Cape Breton. We rented a car in both places, which was well worthwhile. The Bras d'Or Lake is a cruising delight. We also enjoyed Halifax, Lunenburg and the South Shore as well as the many small fishing ports where we sheltered on our way. The people we met everywhere were just outstandingly friendly and helpful. We recommend Cheryl Barr's books, particularly for the advice on dealing with tides. She is spot on. The St. Lawrence River tidal current atlas is very helpful, but you can get by with the tide tables and Barr's guides. It is also useful if you charting program has tide tables embedded. As long as they are up to date it saves a lot of trouble looking up the tide tables and adjusting for secondary ports. We were pleasantly surprised at the quality of cell phone coverage we had. There were very few areas where we could not get cell service from the Canadian providers. Hope this will encourage more cruisers to visit. Hope this is a good starting point for you. We have also done the Seaway locks between Montreal and Lake Ontario as well as the Welland Canal between Lakes Ontario and Erie. The other route to Lake Erie is via the Erie Canal, if you have height of less than 15 feet. Let me know if you need anything else. J.E. Fordyce Toronto ON Adagio I Kadey Krogen 48 Whaleback Currently stored at Southwest Harbor ME