As long-term residents of Seattle, one would
think that we are accustomed to rain. This is
only partially true. Generally in Seattle we get
drizzle, whereas here in the Bahamas we are
getting something which feels more like standing
in front of a fire hose. Not only is it a
drenching rain, but because of the 30+ knots of
wind, it is coming sideways. The bimini top
covering the back of our boat is meaningless
against the storm.
Our three days in Nassau can mostly be summarized
as: waiting for the rain to stop. The only
"excitement" came when another similarly sized
power catamaran arrived. We watched from inside
our boat as the cat attempted to back into the
slip next to ours, waiting for it to slam into
us, or worse. I couldn't imagine why it was out
in this weather, but there it was a few feet to
our starboard, attempting to slide into the slot
next to us. Unlike our boat, this cat had no
interior drive station. There were two men
aboard, one at the wheel, and the other standing
on the bow, attempting to throw a line to the
dock. Both were soaked to the skin, and not
looking very happy.
There were a lot of reasons for hoping they would
soon succeed in their docking attempt:
The wind was pushing them hard at us, and
I wasn't in the mood to hear scraping fiberglass
2) These guys looked miserable
3) Where were the dock hands? I suspect these
guys called for help, and the dock hands were
ignoring the call. As the nearest boat, it was me
who was going to have to venture out, if the
situation didn't solve soon.
After watching several failed attempts, there was
no option, I had to help. Catching a line took
only a minute or two, but in so doing I had
become drenched to the skin. Roberta refused to
allow me into the boat until I had dried off. She
handed me a towel, and then wouldn't let me into
the boat until all clothes were removed. Luckily
visibility was severely limited. Entering the
boat, wearing my towel, Roberta and I starting
talking about how boating isn't for everyone. You
need a good sense of humor, and an ability to "go
with the flow." We had planned dinner at a nice
restaurant in Nassau, but now it was obvious we
weren't leaving the boat. People who easily get
irritated, when things don't go as planned, may
not make great boaters.
Later, the two gentlemen on the arriving boat
thanked me profusely and explained that they had
been surprised by the rain, 40 miles offshore.
Their return trip took over six hours, averaging
just over six knots. I'm surprised they made it.
Finally, on Thursday, we were able to leave
Nassau for the Exumas. The Exumas are a long span
of hundreds of small islands, within the Bahamas,
stretching roughly north to south. We had rented
a cottage, for a week, on Staniel Cay. Our
thought was that this would put us roughly in the
center of the Exumas, and we could spend each day
exploring with our cottage as the hub.
The run from Nassau to Staniel Cay is
approximately 80 miles, all across the "Great
Bahama Bank". For most of the run we had only six
to eight feet of water under us, which in the
Bahamas is considered "deep water." There were
occasional patches of coral, but we were easily
able to steer around them.
We were advised to wait until Friday, for calmer
seas, but were stir-crazy and wanted to get
moving. The seas were not bad. Throughout the
run we had two to four foot waves, but the
annoying part was that it was a non-stop beam
sea. We were being pushed from the starboard
side, and couldn't seem to find a comfortable
speed. Normally, you can adjust course slightly
to smooth the ride, but with an 80 mile ride in
shallow water, I didn't want to veer off course.
By sticking to the route marked on the chart, I
felt we had the greatest chance of avoiding
"surprises."
About every 60 seconds we would tilt way right,
then a few seconds later tilt way left. About
every 10th cycle, we'd surf the top of a wave,
and crash into a valley, jarring teeth and
emptying cabinets. I tried adjusting our speed,
trying to find the maximum "survivable" speed.
Nothing helped, so we toughed it out at 25 knots,
and four hours later, we were at our new home.
Arrival at the dock in front of our new (rented)
cottage was not quite the pleasure I expected.
Before I talk about our arrival, I need to segue
way and talk about tides and mooring here in the
Bahamas. Tides in the Bahamas, at least now in
May, swing about 3 = feet. We have similar tides
in Seattle, but generally, they aren't too
troublesome. Most pacific northwest moorage (or,
at least the moorage I use) floats up and down
with the tide. The local custom here in the
Bahamas is to orient the docks to high tide, and
allow the boat, rather than the dock, to rise and
fall with the tide.
On a taller boat, this wouldn't be a big deal,
but for us on the Glacier Bay, it is presenting a
challenge. This means tying to a dock which is
easily four feet above us (if arriving at low
tide). It also means that at high tide you can't
tighten the lines snug, because you don't want
your boat suspended in air as the tide drops.
Lastly, the fenders I have on board are of the
"dangling" type. They are useless in this
scenario, where the dock rises and lowers
dramatically against the side of the boat. What I
should have is long cylindrical fenders which I
can hang sideways, to protect the side of the
boat.
Further complicating our approach was a strong
current, running parallel to the dock.
Remembering my days of flight instruction, I put
my nose into the current, and moseyed my way to
the dock. Roberta then stood on the side of the
boat, and attached a bow line. Once that was
accomplished it was just a matter of working out
the correct line length. I solved the fender
issue by tying my fenders end-to-end.
Neither Roberta nor I slept well our first night
at "Serenity". Somewhere along the way we were
attacked by "No Seeums." Each of our legs had
100s of itchy little bites. Roberta refused to
let me show a picture of her legs, and I
originally had a picture of one of my legs here,
but after thinking it over, I decided that it
wasn't in good taste. You are lucky. We weren't
quite as lucky though, in that Serenity's owner
is having some work done on her home. Each
morning has meant jack hammering, starting at
8am. Ouch.
You may be wondering why we rented a cottage.
Those who have read my previous trip reports have
heard me say on many occasions that we like
boating primarily for the anchoring. Yet, on this
particular trip, we booked ourselves into hotels
for 25 of 30 nights. The reason: this is our
first trip to the Bahamas. We don't know where
the good anchorages are, and we don't yet know
how the anchor on our Glacier Bay does in high
winds. Also: we have been spoiled by our larger
Nordhavn. The Glacier Bay's lacks a shower, and
an internet connection. Lastly, there are sharks
EVERYWHERE you look. I've been told that these
are nice sharks, and not to worry - but, I'm in
no hurry to go swimming (swimming is normally
something I enjoy as part of the anchoring
experience.) All that said, after a week spent
sleeping in port, and rented rooms, I am aching
to get to anchor. Expect that the next time I
write I'll have some great stories to tell of
good-times spent on a hook.
Ken Williams
http://www.kensbook.com/www.kensbook.com
http://lists.samurai.com/pipermail/power-catamaran/2006-May/001189.html