Bill Kimley of Seahorse Marine has provided photos of Nomad, a
Diesel Duck 44 steaming home to Florida from China--in a leisurely
fashion via the Med.
The photos are up at http://homepage.mac.com/gxk/PhotoAlbum1.html.
The initial post was
http://lists.samurai.com/pipermail/passagemaking-under-power/2005-April/001033.html.
I hope we'll be able to provide further updates as the voyage
unfolds.
The Red Sea and Suez Canal passage is just a faint blur in my memory.
The reason for this is either the arteriosclerotic brain or the fact
that the " pot is full" after three months of cruising along the
Turkish coast.
Our plan was to do The Red Sea as fast as possible and get to the
Mediterranean in time to enjoy a full cruising season. Most sailboats
spend one to two months on this trip, ducking in and out of protected
anchorages along the western shore. We left Djibouti on April 21, and
headed right for the middle; at times close to the shipping lanes.
The first four days were great: wind over the stern, averaging 7 kts
and 170 miles / day. Then we had to pay our dues: unrelenting strong
winds from the NNW, right on the nose, blowing at Beaufort 7 to 9.
This lasted for five days and the seas were building to impressive
size. Once you are in the middle of the Red Sea, there is no hiding.
I had to throttle way down and at times we moved only at a speed of
one to two knots. At this speed and these seas I had no choice, but
to face the seas head on. The boat would have been rolled badly at
any other angle. Pounding into the sea, our strong Nomad sounded like
a thin tin can! Once, the captain of a large tanker that was passing
close to our boat, called, asking if he could be of any help. He kept
asking whether he could do anything for us -- this got us really
worried! On the 9th day things calmed down and we tied up to a
mooring buoy in front of the "Suez Yacht Club" in the evening of
April 29.
The Suez Canal passage is a two day affair and one needs to engage an
"agent", who will make the necessary arrangement. The boat needs to
be admeasured and inspected and the hands of everybody involved need
to be lubricated with US Dollars. There is somebody constantly rowing
about in the anchorage asking for Cigarettes ( Marlboro) and money --
usually making a "hard landing" with the old wooden skiff if one does
not oblige. Nomad suffered a few scars here. I have seen some of
these guys jumping up and down, repeatedly banging into a nice yacht,
and screaming " Allah will punish you!", if the owner did not oblige
to their requests. By the way, these people all work for the "agent".
The first stop is in Ismailia. After Suez this is a pleasant
surprise. There is a nice marina with clean facilities and friendly
staff. One can stay for just one night or longer, arrangements for
the pilot are made when one is ready to leave. We left Ismailia on
May 8, heading for Port Said. Our pilot was a quiet, friendly chap.
Shortly before the pilot boat took him off in Port Said he requested
his "gift". I gave him cigarettes and more Dollars than the "usual"
rate, but he was suddenly not very happy -- he also wanted a T-shirt.
Since I did not have one for his size -- he was a big fellow -- He
left rather brusquely. We did not stop in Port Said -- a derelict
place, I was told -- and sailed straight to Cyprus, which we reached
on May 10.
The Canal itself is interesting, but also monotonous. Desert on the
left side and desert on the right side. Being passed -- almost within
reach -- by a VERY large container ship is exciting, however.
We are now back in Finike, Turkey. Since our departure from Phuket,
Thailand we have covered about 7,000 miles. Considering our fuel
consumption, the boat traveled 4.2 miles / Gal. (1.1 miles / Liter)
or used 0.24 Gal. / mile ( 0.9 Liters / mile ). Average speed: 6.3
kts @ RPM 1300 to (mostly) 1400+.
Jurgen S
Nomad, Diesel Duck 4403