(Warning:  "Soapbox Alert")
    The opinions and observations are mine.  Your mileage may vary.

1-10-01 The Skipper's Meeting for boats heading to points south was well attended. Representatives of 36 boats were present! I find it amazing that none of those had been "south" before. (Maybe ones with experience didn't want to feel obligated to answer all the "questions"). The gist of the meeting was that we'd all keep "in touch" on VHF regarding plans and ideas. One thing for sure was the need to wait for the proper "crossing window". I installed a new float switch for the bilge pump, and it works great. While cleaning some through hull strainers I used the shower washdown on the swim step, instead of the anchor washdown on the bow. The door which houses the shower hose and faucet was a little stiff , so I used some penetrating oil on the hinge to loosen it up. While working the oil in, first one, then the other hinge broke off! Hence, a trip to Triple J marine store to purchase a pair of replacement hinges. The new ones were almost (but not quite) the same size, so some modification of the wooden door was necessary. (Funny how with Murphy's help, little jobs become more complicated). Now the door works again. Lori and I went into town to do some more provisioning, so we'd be prepared for the next part of our journey. We'll have to wait on some things for the arrival of the supply boat tomorrow. The day was a little blustery and bumpy at anchor with the passage of a cold front. This time, though, we anchored a little more east providing a better lee for more protection. 1-11-01 A dinner invitation from Anne on Skookum resulted in a wonderful evening. In addition to the crew from Skookum, we were joined by the crew of "Kate" (Andrew, Carmen, and Jonathon). John, Carmen, and Jonathon live in Alaska, and are fishermen during the short summer season. (They're in the perhaps unenviable position <???> of owning two boats!) Originally from South Africa, they are most pleasant folks with vast knowledge and experience to share. Andrew tells the story of a fisherman friend of his who ran his boat aground in Alaska on a day with the highest tide of the year. Since it would be one year until he could float his boat off, the friend instead gave up fishing for that season and promptly bought a plane ticket to Hawaii. Ultimate "panache" (in Andrew's words). A while back I read an article in a boating magazine about flying the very first caught Salmon of the Alaska season out by float plane to Seattle, and the logistics involved, therein. Come to find out, that adventure was Carmen's idea. What a small world. The kids enjoyed spending time together, whilst the adults conversed. What a pleasant evening. 1-12-01 The first order of business was to pick up some money in town. I'd never before had money transferred by wire. The routing instructions were faxed (thanks "S.L.A.C.K. Outfit") to our bank in Missouri. It went from there to Bank of America in New York, then CICB bank in Toronto, CICB in Nassau and finally, their branch in Marsh Harbor. I was told it would take two working days for the transfer to be completed. Wednesday morning the transaction began, so it should have been here Friday morning. Initially, it seemed there was a problem when no evidence of the event could be found in Marsh Harbor. The teller said to return later that day, or Monday. I explained we would most likely be gone by Monday, so she called the Nassau branch and found the necessary information. The fee to send the money amounted to 0.75% to send the funds, and 0.50% for the cash in US dollars (as opposed to Bahamian dollars). All in all, it went smoothly, and we can now continue our trip. We had John and Sandy from Jubilee over for lasagna, and it was great fun. The dinner was good, too. 1-13-01 Mail for the states (including the third set of tests for Calvert School) was dropped off to a cruiser flying back to the US. We also made it to the bakery for our final Marsh Harbor bread. On our way back to the boat we met Anne and Carmen and were again invited for dinner that evening, this time aboard Kate. Wow! Carmen made fresh fish (grouper) purchased from Long's Seafood which was probably the best fish I've ever eaten. She cooked it in aluminum foil on their bar-b-que. Another terrific time. 1-14-01 Sunday morning, and time to take leave of Marsh Harbor. Part of the Cruiser's Net is letting folks know you're leaving, and your intentions. We said farewell to friends made, and wished everyone well. After topping off diesel fuel, and filling the outboard gas can we headed out. Destination Lynyard Cay near Little Harbor. Since it was approaching high tide we took an alternate route south through the Lubber's Quarter's Channel. This is either a high tide, or shallow draft route. It's less than straight forward requiring several course changes, and some "eyeball" water reading. It goes past Cracker P's, and Yahoes Sand Bar, two "character" establishments worth visiting, if time and weather permit. It also passes the Tilloo Cut to the Atlantic, and Tahiti Beach, an absolutely beautiful small residential development on Tilloo Cay. By employing this route you can save about 6-7 miles of travel. We anchored at Lynyard which is not far from Little Harbor, and the Little Harbor Bar (channel to the Atlantic). This provides shelter from the east wind, and ocean swells, but is wide open to winds from the northwest to north. The last time we visited Little Harbor, there were three or four boats anchored there, and they had a bumpy time in the strong "northerner". A tactical decision was necessary. The distance to Eleuthera was about 60 nautical miles. We wanted to make that trip in daylight, especially our arrival in Eleuthera, which necessitated departure at first light. First light was also a low "moon" tide, meaning it would be impossible to exit Little Harbor proper. This afternoon we went ashore to Lynyard, and explored both the Sea of Abaco, and Atlantic beaches. The weather forecast for our crossing looks promising, so we'll see how things look early tomorrow. MOE (our dinghy) was tilted up on the Weaver Snap Davits for the first time in two months. I didn't want to tow him behind during our coming passage. This also gave us an opportunity to clean his "bottom". A healthy crop of sea grass and slime came off relatively easily, and he probably feels like we do after a haircut! 1-15-01 Up at 0530, to make ready. During the night it rained three or four different times, something which wasn't forecast and indicated a possible mild cold front passage (although the wind direction hadn't changed). Fourteen boats had been anchored with us, and several sailboats left about 0400. There were three trawlers among the group (Jubilee, Glory a 36' Marine Trader Sedan, and us). First light was 0630, and Glory left about 0610. We were next, and Jubilee had a last cup of coffee before departing. The Little Harbor Channel cut is a relatively "narrow" opening through the reef. It was just a little spooky leaving by following a reciprocal bearing on a house on Bridges Cay, and GPS waypoints. Everything went fine, though. Once in the Atlantic there was still an easterly breeze, and a likewise swell. Shortly after leaving Glory radioed they opted to return and try again tomorrow because of the swell. We ventured out a little farther (to give plenty of seaway to the "Boilers", a reef extending eastward from Great Abaco Island, near Little Harbor). The swell was a bit uncomfortable, but, according to the latest weather forecast another cold front and northerner was headed our way tomorrow. Since there was no other place to hide, and access to Little Harbor was tide limited, we decided to "go for it". At six knots, an approximately 60 nm trip takes close to ten hours. Jubilee travels faster than we do, so they went ahead some. There were also two other sailboats in sight (one of which slowly passed us, and the other a couple miles behind) for most of the trip. There's something about traveling over water close to 14,000 feet deep, and 3,000 miles east before encountering the next land mass, to make you feel just a bit insignificant. The easterly swell meant a "beam sea" in our southerly course. Beam seas in unstabilized trawlers mean a rolly ride. Although it fluctuated some, most of the time the seas were in the 4-6, or 7 foot range, with an occasional 10 footer thrown in for that "white knuckle" effect. We did decide to postpone school, though. Not a "snow" day like back home, but a "swell" day. It's hard to write when the boat rolls. About half way Brandon said, "just think, back home Dwight (Hi, Dwight!) is going to school, and I'm making a crossing on the Atlantic Ocean". We made it fine, and the boat performed great, although it made for a memorable trip. We arrived off Egg Island around 1430 and headed for Royal Island. The anchorage (25 30.75 N 76 50.72 W) here is really cool. Royal Island is a corruption of the original Spanish name "Ryal" (a coin). It has a superb natural harbor, with all around protection, and great holding ground. I have to tell you, it was really good to see the harbor, and even better once the "hook" was down! We put everything back where it belonged (nothing like a rolly passage to let you know what you forgot to stow, or what you should have stowed better. For example, a cupboard in our cabin containing cruising guides, and catalogs opened up spilling the contents on the floor). Nothing was broken, and no harm done. Following a quick meal, we prepared to "hit the sack". While double checking the anchor line I glanced skyward. Royal Island is uninhabited, and the town of Spanish Wells some distance away. It is really dark here at night, but what a show. The sky was more star than darkness. What a spectacular scene, and a fitting end to a significant day. 1-16-01 This morning was fabulous. The sky was clear, the birds were singing, and the sun shone brightly.Upon arrival yesterday there were 17 boats at anchor. This morning the number swelled to 20. Following school, we went exploring. On shore are the ruins of an estate. It was originally a plantation back in the 1800's. In fact, an American privateer vessel "Midas" paid a "visit" in 1814, burned four main houses and 14 worker huts. This act provoked an official protest from Great Britain to the US Secretary of State. In the late 1920's, and early 30's a W.P. Stewart from Florida re-built the estate. The money invested still shows , although the buildings are, unfortunately in ruins. Stones cut for the many buildings came from mainland Eleuthera, and were loaded into a sailboat 20 blocks per trip. Intricate tile work still remains with delicate patterns changing from room to room, and building to building. One room has a huge fireplace, (taking up the entire wall) with built-ins above, and on either side. The main building is supported by a series of archways, with a second floor that at one time must have provided a spectacular view of the harbor and waters beyond. Showers and bathtubs still exist, although not useable. The roofs of most of the buildings are either missing, or badly damaged both from weather (including hurricanes), and a large termite nest visible in one building. Several hand-built stone walls criss-cross the property, probably left over from plantation days. These were constructed by fitting stones one at a time, to build long walls to a height of about four feet. Brandon said, "Boy, that was labor intensive!" A wide concrete path leads from the harbor side, to the Atlantic side protected by offshore reef. There you can see the remains of what appears to be a large "fish pen". It's too shallow for boat traffic, but obviously had purpose (unknown) at one time. A big concrete dock (partially destroyed) sits on the harbor side. Further along is a large "warehouse" type structure hidden back in the hillside, fronted with huge doors and a wide concrete path leading directly to yet another harbor dock. A two story building, which may have been a guest house is in the best condition of all the structures. (In fact, one of the upstairs bedrooms still has a bed in it). It sits next to a very large garage. One of the other boaters said the owner used to keep his Model "T" Ford here, and drove it around the island. The other interesting factoid are several "bases" placed strategically around the harbor. They appear as though there may have been statuary stands at one time This may be an example of adding two plus two to get five, but we wonder if this whole place didn't have another distinct "purpose". The town of Spanish Wells is just seven miles away. One of the skills those residents had at the time was refining sugar, and making rum. During prohibition many folks made significant money running rum to the U.S. It would be relatively easy to store refined product in the warehouse, run it down to boats waiting in the harbor, for transport to destination. Our understanding is once prohibition was repealed, the estate began to fall into disuse. Following our trip ashore , Kira, Brandon, Lori and I took the dinghy "outside" to the west end of the island where we found a deserted beach. It looked like something out of "South Pacific". A crescent of sugar sand, fringed in swaying palm trees just begged exploration. A short walk down the beach led to a place where the island was just a few yards wide. On one side, the Atlantic, and the other the waters south of the island. Many crabs of all size scurried about. Chitons, a "bug like" mollusk hid in great number in small tide pools being ever more revealed as the tide ebbed. The rocky part of the island is limestone, and the sea sculpts it into some very interesting shapes (called "iron shore"). Lori says they look like huge "dribble sand castles" . To me, they look like a beach fortified against attack. (In fact, in some areas just trying to walk on the rock is challenging). As the sun began to set with reluctance we returned to the boat. Kira blew the Conch Horn, and we had a nice dinner. Another wonderful day came to a close. 1-17-01 Time to go snorkeling. The water was just a bit cold at first, but tolerable once in. Right off the bat, a nurse shark was spotted lounging right underneath the boat. He was well camouflaged, laying in eel grass. As we snorkeled toward the limestone shore more fish became evident. The shore hid lots of tropical fish (some very pretty yellow and purple ones, and huge schools of minnow). Several coral heads were growing close by, too, with their own shapes and colors. Later, John, B, Kira and Lori again went snorkeling and saw a large turtle hiding in a cave at the shoreline. B saw some lobster. Several "baby" nurse sharks were close by, too. 1-18-01 After school Kira, Lori, and I took MOE to Spanish Wells. It's a "one-way" seven mile trip from Royal Harbor, although easily found. As the lobster center of the Bahamas, fishing reigns supreme. We saw, in fact, some of the most well maintained fishing fleet ever. Spanish Wells seems a very prosperous community. There probably aren't many more than ten miles of road on the entire island. But, vehicular traffic is heavy, including some pretty prestigious cars (I saw both a new Lexus, and a Corvette). In addition, it seems most kids ride their own motor scooter to school. There were a couple specific goals to this trip. I've been wearing old "Top-Sider" shoes for walking around the rocks, and beaches. Unfortunately, they, as leather is wont to do, shrunk. Lately, it was difficult to walk with these now "too small" shoes. An attempt to find an inexpensive pair of canvas shoes was top of the list. Success. For a mere $15 I found what was needed! The other item in need was composition books for Matt and B. We found "Bahamas Composition Books", used by lots of local kids with a map of the country on the cover. 1-19-01 I cleaned all the through-hulls this morning. Although there are no barnacles here, crusty little marine growth continues. This was last done 10 weeks ago, and it was time. All in all, the rest of the hull looks great. John and Sandy from Jubilee invited us over for "hor de oeuvres" at sundown. LeRoy and Dawn from "New Dawn" were also in attendance. It was most pleasant sitting there talking to all these great folks, and watching the sunset. 1-20-01 A while back I mentioned Kira and I making a "water glass", or a "look bucket". The "ready-made" variety, when available, are quite expensive (approximately $65). We bought a piece of round glass, and a plain old white plastic 5 gallon bucket (the kind used for paint). Although this was originally to be Christmas present to the family from Kira and I, we were a little late in construction. Today, we cut the bottom from the bucket, and caulked the glass in place. After the caulk set, we tried it out. It works great. Not only can you see coral, fish,and other underwater marine life, but it's also a good tool to check how well the anchor is set. One potential problem is the lack of tempered glass , so we'll have to be careful to not to stress it. Matt especially enjoyed watching the Presidential Inauguration. More "history in the making". (He'll be able to tell his kids someday that he watched the festivities while at anchor in the Bahamas!). 1-21-01 Today was a "kick-back" day. John (from Jubilee II) is a big western fan. We invited he and Sandy over to watch a TNT movie "Crossfire Trail" starring Tom Selleck. Popcorn and a movie aboard, what fun! 01-22-01 A forecast cold front is supposed to pass today. The wind clocked through, and then picked up substantially. We swung around 360 degrees in the morning, and then did it once again this afternoon. The wind was very strong, gusty, and continued throughout the night. A few of the boats anchored here left, but the majority are still present. We're all just "swinging" around together. 01-23-01 School had just about finished when one of the other sailboats anchored nearby began blowing their horn. We looked up, and the sailboat upwind of us had dragged anchor, and was coming our way. Luckily, they were able to start the engine and re-anchor. Also fortunately, it happened during daylight. 01-24-01 Finally, the weather is improving. It's time to move on. The northern entrance to Spanish Wells goes through the Devil's Backbone reef, and definitely requires the services of a knowledgeable local pilot. Luckily, there's a southern entrance to town, which is relatively straight forward. We called Edsel Roberts ("Dolphin") on the radio, and reserved a couple of his moorings. The harbor in Spanish Wells is actually formed by three islands (St. Georges Cay, Russell Island, and Charles Island). The water color in the harbor is a beautiful aquamarine. It's most definitely a working harbor. Currently, the "large boat" fishing fleet numbers between 25-30. These boats are mainly engaged in the lobster fishery, and in fact, are responsible for 75% of the Bahamian catch. The way it's done is fascinating, although hard work. First, the fishermen build "lobster condos". These are wooden rectangular bases about ten inches high, covered by a corrugated "roof". These condos are lowered to the bottom, and weighted with a couple bricks to keep them stable. Lobster, being elusive creatures go inside to seek shelter. For some time all is well, as they grow and prosper. Time comes, though, to "pay the piper". Ultimately, the fishermen return. Divers go down again using the "third lung" type technology where an air hose is hooked to a compressor on the surface, allowing freedom on the bottom. Divers working in teams turn the condo upside down, kill all "residents", and collect them. Packed into large plastic bags, and frozen back in the mother ship, they'll await their trip to market. Many of the boats go out for 4-5 weeks at a time. One boat just returned set 1400 "condos" all the way down to Cuban territorial waters! After the trap is set the position is entered into a differential GPS for future retrieval. A lot of hard work, but significant reward, too. Spanish Wells has a grocery store called "Food Fair" which compares favorably to many in the states. The only thing different are the prices! The modern lobster industry began in 1957 when refrigeration was brought over to preserve the catch for the trip to market. Prior to that lobster was only used as fish bait, and sold locally for two cents per pound! When we first checked in November the Customs/Immigration officer said he was only going to give us 90 days on our permit. I asked why he couldn't give us 180 days as the law allows, but he was adamant. "Seven days before this is to expire, just go and have it renewed. It will be no problem", he said. According to the cruising guide, Spanish Wells is a port of entry. I gathered our cruising permit, all papers, and went to see the Custom's man. There's a sign outside the government building that says, among others "Customs Office". Inside was a Post Office, Administrator's Office, Court, and school Computer Lab. No Customs, though. An inquiry to the Post Office clerk generated a look of incredulity. "There's no Customs here, it's down at the dock". OK, time to go back to the dock. The agent was very friendly, but... he couldn't help me with an extension. "You must go see them at the North Eleuthera airport". (What???) "Yes, they can help there. Be sure to take all paperwork, and passports with you. Go see Calvin at Pinder's store, and he can get you there". OK...off to see Calvin. "Be here at 9:30 AM tomorrow, and I'll take you there", said Calvin. 1-25-01 Today is field trip day. I met Calvin a little before the appointed time. The trip involved a water taxi to North Eleuthera, then a land taxi drive to the airport. Calvin drives both. He had one other passenger, bound for Alaska (brrr). This fellow was very friendly and we discussed home schooling (he taught his own children in Alaska). After inquiring my reason for the airport trip he said our experience was not uncommon. In fact, he owns a house in Spanish Wells, and is still only given a 90 day time frame. That revelation did make this whole episode a little easier to take. Once at the airport I went to Customs, but they said the cruising permit was valid for one year, and needed no extension. She then looked at our visitors permit, and said I would have to go to immigration. Sure enough, that permit needed extension. The lady in Immigration was also friendly, but there was another whole stack of papers to fill out. It was dark in the office, because the electricity was "out" on the island , so I filled out papers in semi-darkness. She also had to meet incoming air passengers which necessitated excusing herself a couple different times. After about an hour, all was done and I went looking for Calvin. His taxi was there, but he was nowhere to be found. I awaited his return, and looked around the small facility. About an hour later he returned, and I got back in the taxi. As we prepared to leave, he saw someone else he needed to speak with, stopped, and said he'd be back. Another hour or so, and we left for real. All in all, it cost half a day, and $25 in taxi fees to make us legal. It sure would have been a lot easier if the original officer would have given us a 180 day permit, as was his power to do. Oh well, we're visitors, and have to play the game by "Bahamian rules". I called on the handheld VHF, and Brandon came in the dinghy to pick me up upon return. This afternoon the whole family is going on another field trip. Spanish Wells has a museum which we all plan to visit. It has no regular hours, so you have to ask the folks in the Islander shop to open it for guests. Located in an historic former home, the museum was interesting. The museum proprietors in Green Turtle, Abaco, were so friendly, knowledgeable, and genuine in their attempt to share their history that we were hoping for the same here. It was not to be so. The lady was, unfortunately, more interested in collecting her $5 per person fee than answering any questions. Questions we did ask were not addressed, so we got the message. The museum was interesting, though. July 9, 1647 saw the official formation of the "Eleutherian Adventurers" with these Articles and Orders of Company: "The peace and happy progress of all plantations doth much depend upon the good government thereof, the equal distribution of justice, and respect of all persons." William Sayles from Bermuda was in search of religious freedom (he became a Puritan, and was being persecuted) leading to the adventure to Eleutheria (Greek word for freedom). They left in 1648, and immediately had trouble. Their ship, the William, foundered on the Devil's Backbone reef, and all possessions and supplies were lost. There was only one fatality, but all struggled ashore with nothing. A cave, called Preacher's Cave, became their original home. Living off fruits and wild animals, their situation became more desperate with time. William Sayles set forth in a small open boat, and sailed all the way to Virginia seeking help. (How's that for a gutsy move?) A relief ship was sent, but that still did little to ease the settler's life. They did persevere, though much of the time life wasn't easy. When Columbus first arrived in what was to become the Bahamas he was greeted by the Lucayan Indians. (Since his original goal was India, he assumed all those met were "Indians"). It's estimated there were 50 thousand Lucayans living here in 600 AD). The Spanish promptly enslaved them, forcing their move to other colonies (Cuba, Haiti, etc) and within perhaps 30 years the Lucayan people ceased to exist. Several Lucayan words did survive, though. Barbacoa became Bar-b-que, while canoa became canoe, among others. It was not until the 1950's that Spanish Wells was electrified. Up until that time all light came from kerosene lamps. Food couldn't be refrigerated, so wives would buy just enough for one day. When fishermen returned with the day's catch, a conch horn was blown announcing the fact. Eleuthera is 110 miles long, but only a couple miles wide, at most. The majority is well protected by offshore reef, but one part, where the reef is not continuous, is called the Glass Window. Here the deep Atlantic is hardly separated from the shallow Bight of Eleuthera. In fact, an original land bridge was so battered by Atlantic waves it eventually collapsed and cut the island in two. A steel bridge was built which has been damaged many times by waves . In October 1991 this 600 ton bridge was moved over 6 feet on its' support by huge waves! Several instances of people watching, or picnicking on top have resulted in death. (Much scarier than bad potato salad!) After the museum, we took a walking tour of the some of the older streets in Spanish Wells. One two story house in particular, has walls built entirely out of individually fitted native cut limestone. (A pretty impressive sight). This is probably enough information for today. In fact, it may be a lot more than you wanted to know! 1-26-01 Happy Birthday Matt! Today he's 14, and we're going on another trip. The "Bo Hengy" is a catamaran "Fast Ferry" based in Nassau. It makes a stop in Spanish Wells, then goes to Harbor Island, by way of Devils' Backbone reef. For you "Trawler World" types, she's powered by two 2200 HP MTU diesels driving water jets. She cruises at 35 knots, with a maximum speed of 42 knots. The interior looks like a jet liner, and the ride is kind of like a high tech roller coaster when in significant swell. Yesterday the swell prevented the trip through the reef (it was just too rough). Today things have settled down enough to go. It pops up on plane like a rocket, and "corners" like a Cadillac. I find it interesting that even though this trip is made every day possible, they still have a "pilot" on board. The trip through the reef is pretty exciting. Several sharp turns, and one point where you are no more than a hundred yards or so, off the beach. Some of the "rollers" were still breaking close by, but the catamaran ride was very smooth. The trip takes about a half hour. Harbor Island is a small community, hosting lots of resorts. Many of the buildings date back to the 1700's, and are painted in bright Caribbean colors. Since this was Matt's birthday we decided to really splurge and rented a "stretch limo" golf cart. The beach here is wide (I believe the widest in the country) and several miles long. As we approached a Bahamian fellow (who looked like a Rastafarian with his wild hair-do) riding a horse bareback full out went galloping down the sand. We met the crew of Glory in another cart, and they told us we had to go to the marina for a special treat. It seems someone "famous" has a boat here. Jimmy Buffet's 90' Cheoy Lee "Continental Drifter II" was in fact tied up there. She's 90 feet long with two 600 HP Cats. Her dark blue hull gleamed, as did all the brightwork. Buffet has owned her for 15 months, according to the captain, who was very friendly. Jimmy was here up until a couple days ago, and threw a big party on board before he left. (A couple "Glory" met went, and one of them even played one of Buffet's guitars!) The captain said they were going to leave tomorrow for St. Barts, as he finished securing all the onboard toys (inflatable, Whaler, sea kayak, etc.) which seemed well used. On our way to the marina we walked through the Romora Bay Club. Wow! What a neat place. It looked like something out of the movie "Casablanca". Slow turning ceiling fans, lots of wicker furniture, a highly polished bar, and open windows to the breeze made for terrific ambience. Following lunch at Angela's Starfish restaurant we toured some of the shops before time to leave. Kira found a great straw hat, and Lori bought a new straw bag. Much of the straw work is done locally. The public dock was an instance of organized chaos. Three "mail boats" were unloading their cargo, forklifts were darting to and fro. People waited in lines to greet passengers offloading from Bo Hengy, as did those waiting to board. Golf carts and small cars jockeyed for position. (Kind of like a circus). Matt really enjoyed his day, as is fitting. 1-27-01 Time to re-provision, re-fuel, and cruise away. We took MOE down to the "Ruby Tuesday dock" and walked to the Food Fair grocery store. The dock cart was full, our wallet was lighter, and we had food again. I paid for our mooring, while everyone prepared to take on some fuel, and leave. At 1300 we arrived at the fuel dock, and found out they were closed for lunch until 1400 hours. So, we waited. After fueling, we went back to Royal Island. What a difference from the first time here. Then, there were nearly 20 boats. Today there were two, including us. 1-28-01 Following a peaceful night, it was time to leave. Our destination, Eleuthera. In order to get to Eleuthera Sound one must transit Current Cut. Current Island is separated from North Eleuthera by this cut. As enormous amount of water is funneled through this opening barely 90' wide . The tide was near high (high water approximately one hour away) as we made our way through. Eddies and whirlpools were evident as our speed over ground increased. We rocketed through at 10.1 knots, the fastest this boat has ever gone! The one "tricky" part going east is a hard starboard turn once you're through, to avoid shallows and a difficult to see "grass" bar. We made it fine, and set a course for Governor's Harbor (25 12.00 N 76 29.66 W). The original capitol of the Bahamas, and the site of the first Parliament, Governor's is a neat little town that was well worth a visit. Not a harbor, in the true sense of the word, (it's wide open to the west) although there is a small breakwater to help protect the mail boat dock. The cruise guide wasn't too enthusiastic about spending the night in any adverse weather. Holding ground is very poor. Some government owned moorings were supposed to be upgraded in 1999, but that didn't happen. The weather for the evening was supposed to be fair, and we wanted to get to Cape Eleuthera as our departure point to the Exumas. One other option was Hatchet Bay, to the north. (Hatchet has a "negative reputation" for "begging" on the part of locals. The marina, a seawall only, still shows significant damage from both Hurricanes Andrew and Floyd Finally there's supposedly a problem with security of items left about). A couple other boats did stop there, and pretty much confirmed what the guide said. They also mentioned a large "cigarette type" boat which came in the right before dusk. It was painted a dull non-reflective gray color, and had five (!) 250 HP outboards on the stern. The crew consisted of six burly fellows. Definitely not your typical cruising boat. The teller of this story said everyone in the harbor immediately attempted to "look away", so as not to be thought of as staring at the new arrivals. Speculation ran rampant as to whether they represented the "good guys" or the "bad guys". (Sometimes you can't tell the players without a score card, I guess). So Governor's Harbor, it was. We tried one mooring, and backed down at idle speed while watching it bounce merrily along with us. No good. Another's pennant just "broke" away under the same circumstances. Finally, we tied to one more and put out an anchor, too. After arrival, we took the dinghy to shore to look around. All the streets were paved. The buildings, for the most part, were well tended, and there are a couple of really neat old (150 years, or so) churches. People we met were very friendly. We walked around town for a look until we started to lose light. 1-29-01 We were still there in the morning. The weather report indicates the possibility of an approaching cold front, so it was time to leave. Lori wanted to do some laundry, but we'll have to do it elsewhere. Today's destination was Cape Eleuthera Marina (24 50.24 N 76 21.20 W). The one tricky part is traversing the "Davis Channel". You have to maneuver around some "coral heads", and watch for a "live sand bore" (a fluid, changing sand bar moved around by current). A sailboat who went through an hour or so ahead reported bumping the bottom several times (his draft was 5.5 feet). He was following waypoints from a popular chart series. We followed some information from Wilson's "Bahamas Cruising Guide" and had no less than 9' of water the whole way. Cape Eleuthera was a resort developed during the early 1970's. It apprised approximately 5,000 acres with a million dollar marina, seaside golf course, its' own airport, 200 rental bungalows, fresh water swimming pool, condominiums, a dive service, and four star restaurant. For some inexplicable reason, it was allowed to go into ruin beginning in the mid 80's. All that remains today is a dilapidated marina, and a handful of condos. The marina, although now in desperate need of repair, shows the pedigree of good design. A strategically placed canal allows ocean "flow through" (completely flushed four times per day) meaning the water is extremely clean. This is the first time we've been tied to a marina in almost three months (since we arrived at West End). Clover especially loved it. Lots of marine life call the marina home. We saw several nurse sharks, a good size octopus, a "squadron" of squid, Spanish mackerel, sea cucumbers, a trumpet fish, and lots of various sized (some very brightly colored) minnows. Several sailboats are here, too. (My favorite combination of boat names is "Glory", "Hallelujah", and "Amazing Grace")! Lots of very friendly people abound. It's also home of the Rum Runners Yacht Club; "free membership, and free drinks tomorrow" is their motto! I washed out the towels in a "bucket brigade" of soap and rinse on the aft deck. It took some effort, but they sure smell better! Brandon met a young man named Brach whose folks own and operate the Island School. Located adjacent to the marina, this facility is really neat. They offer a semester of study to outstanding 14-17 year old students (many from the New York area) working on a curriculum including oceanography, aquaculture, and conservation. Today they all took sea kayaks out to explore the "flats" (shallow water areas). That evening a "happy hour" took place on the dock, where everyone shared stories and fellowship. 1-30-01 This morning the first mate from "Kachina" came down and said they were going to "rent" the dockmaster's car for the day. She wanted to know if we were interested in "going in" on the transaction. The closest major settlement, Rock Sound, was about 22 miles away. They have a grocery store, Laundromat, and bakery, among other stores. According to plan, the first group would take the car in leaving about 0900, and we could then use it in the afternoon. Driving in the Bahamas, as I've discussed before, is frightening (Hi Peter!) because it goes against all that's been "engrained" (drive on the right). John volunteered to drive, if we helped him to remember to keep to the left. I made a note that said "KEEP LEFT" with an arrow, and taped it on the inside windshield just below his line of sight. We all kept repeating, "keep left", too. It was a little easier than a city because there was little traffic. The lady in the Laundromat would either let you use the machines, or, for the same price ($2 per wash, $2 per dry) she would do the clothes, and fold them when dry! She also provided the soap and fabric softener. That choice was a "no brainer", so we dropped off the clothes. She said they'd be ready in about two and one-half hours. In the meantime, we had our propane bottle filled at the hardware store, did some grocery shopping for a proposed dockside pot luck that evening, visited the bakery, and Lori made a phone call to her Mom. The "dock group" planned a potluck dinner at 1900 hours. Lori made some beans, and an antipasto salad. John made Etouffee (pronounced "Ayy Two Fay", although I may not have it spelled correctly). It's a Cajun dish, (kind of a hearty soup, with shrimp, veggies, and wonderful seasonings) eaten over rice. Wow, was it delicious. Another couple brought Cuban Vegetables, a spicy sort of casserole, which tasted terrific, too. Other salads and dishes rounded out the evening. One couple had speared a grouper that afternoon, and they bar-b-qued the filet which was seasoned with Texas spices. Yumm. We all ate and talked until late into the evening, under the canopy of stars. It was truly a magical evening. 1-31-01 We finished school, and went to do some exploring. Sandy and Kira rode the bicycles all around the abandoned development, and had a ball. I talked with another cruiser who's had lots of experience with the Exumas, and we marked many neat places to visit on the chart. That sort of "local knowledge" is very helpful. A beach on the Exuma Sound side of the island has a "blue hole". The depth goes from 2' to 40' in a very short distance. We snorkeled over it. The feeling is a little spooky when you swim and the bottom just drops away. There was an eel peeking out from a small shelf, and lots of colorful fish swimming about. On closer inspection, it seems this particular hole was man-made.The walls were smooth enough that they appeared not to be "natural". Perhaps they dredged the material to use in resort construction? That evening John and Sandy invited us to share some very thick, and lean pork chops with them and another couple from the dock. John and Michelle live aboard a 33' sailboat which they purchased in the Grand Cayman Islands, and have been "fixing up" for more extensive travel. A very interesting and fun group, we again talked until late. "Sailboat John" related the story of how he was spearfishing the week before, and had a close encounter with a shark. His speared Grouper was making a lot of noise and thrashing about, so John's attention was on subduing the fish. Out of the corner of his eye he detected movement. >From that point, he said things seemed to happen in "slow motion". As he turned he saw a fast approaching shark coming straight for him. The shark's body seemed to shake and turn an iridescent blue color simultaneously. It bit him in the "buttocks" (as Forest Gump might say). He was wearing a pair of heavy corduroy cut-offs which showed a perfect bite mark. Apparently the shark didn't like the taste because he didn't break the skin, only left a very nasty bruise. All in all, I'd say he was very lucky, or it wasn't his time to go. Frightening stuff. That's what happens when you become part of the "food-chain". That evening the air was absolutely still. (The bug candles we placed under the picnic table really helped detour the little "beasties"). What a great way to spend the last day in January! 2-1-01 Up early and off to the Exumas. We needed to cross Exumas Sound, which is really just part of the ocean. Although not as deep as our trip from the Abacos, the water was still up to 5,000 feet deep. Originally we planned to cross to Allen's, and Norman's Cay. The problem is a lot of boats in the area, leaving crowded anchorages. Instead, we aimed for Conch Cut, which is at the southern end of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. We found an anchorage at Cambridge Cay (24 18.4 N 76 32.4 W). Once the anchor was set we went ashore to explore. A path marked by Conch Shells leads the way. A large rock named "Bell Rock" (shaped like, well, you know...) is on the "Exuma Sound" side. There's a hill to climb which offers a spectacular 360 degree view. Two large ponds on the north end of the island are easily seen from the hill. Kira and Lori built a rock cairn (pile of rocks) which Kira "dedicated". Matt and B brought along the kites we bought in Rock Sound, and got them both airborne. Aside from Jubilee, there were two other sailboats in the anchorage, so we basically had it to ourselves. The colors of the water here go from dark blue, to swimming pool aquamarine, to brown where coral grow. It is absolutely "Gin" clear. When we approached the island you could make out contours and bottom details when the depth was still about 70-80 feet. 2-2-01 Ground Hog Day! Since we couldn't find a Ground Hog, we let Clover out of her crate, and she definitely saw her shadow. Darn. Six more weeks of this winter weather. (Day-time temps about 80, and sunny, clear skies, as of late). There's a sight called the "Sea Aquarium" about two miles north of here. Time to go snorkeling. The park provides a mooring ball for dinghies, so we had a place to tie MOE. The water was just a bit chilly at first, but tolerable. What a great spot. Huge Barrel sponges, multi-color Sea Fans, large Queen Triggerfish, Banded Coral Shrimp, Midnight and Blue Parrotfish abound. Large schools of Yellow Goatfish, and Yellowtail Snapper watched us from a comfortable distance. We were able to snorkel all around the small island. A very large Grouper "hid out" under a ledge. Many varieties of coral thrive on the bottom. After about an hour, the water temperature (74 degrees) dictated going back up. We stopped at O'Brien's Cay on the way back to explore. There's a "drop-dead" gorgeous white sugar sand beach, fronted by aquamarine water. As we walked further inland a large expanse of "desert" was revealed. Actually not a true desert, it only gets water at extremely high tide, as evidenced by the numerous small shells everywhere. Later, I took Matt back and let him look at the reef with the "looky bucket". He really liked it. Late afternoon a large motor yacht came in and anchored. The evening "entertainment" was about to commence. About 1630 the yacht kept calling another vessel over and over and over again, even though there was no response. A couple other boaters asked them to "give it a rest" on the radio, to absolutely no avail. At 1700 we saw a red flare fired from the yacht. I asked on the radio if they were in distress. There was no reply. One of the other sailboats said to switch to channel 12, and listen to the fiasco. (We did, and he was correct). It seems, as the flares continued to fire, they were trying to "guide another boat into the anchorage". To fully understand the situation, you have to know that it appeared from the conversation all parties involved had been drinking most of the day. Finally, about 1745 an approaching boat was heard. Operating at a high rate of speed, without lights, about a 15 ft. tender (with a 120 HP Honda outboard)came zooming into the anchorage, followed closely by two jet skis. They circled the motor yacht several times with the occupants "hooting and hollering" like a bunch of drunken cowboys. What an operation. It just goes to show you don't have to have a bit of common sense to go along with all that money. (The name of the yacht omitted to protect the "stupid"). 2-3-01 The Exuma Park was called today so we could put our name on a mooring list for tomorrow. Another good snorkel site is an island called Rocky Dundas, where there's also a dinghy mooring ball. The cruising guide is silent about what awaits the snorkeler. Another dinghy was there as we pulled up, and they said to make sure we saw both caves. Caves??? Cool! I asked if there was a lot of current, and they said not when they arrived, but it seemed to be picking up intensity. The first cave was almost hidden, but is very close to the mooring ball. Inside is a large cavern, where you can climb out and look around. Several stalactites, and a few columns are scattered around. The ceiling has a big hole, open to the air where you can see daylight. Right outside the cave is some of the most amazing coral formations ever seen. A huge Elkhorn coral probably was about 40 feet across, provides shelter for large schools of fish. The other dinghy had given us some corn, and the fish loved it. The second cave, further to the north on the little island was even neater than the first. I named it "The Cathedral" because there were huge stalactites, and stalagmites, many joined into columns. There was also a grotto, which resembled an altar. Again, a hole let light and air into the top. What a great spot. Just to show you how quickly things can change, we were about to learn a hard lesson. As we left the current was noticeably stronger. The group headed off further around the island swimming easily with the flow. I tapped Lori on the fin and said, we better head back because it will be hard to swim against it. She turned around, and I went after B and Kira. Originally, Kira started to go with Lori, but couldn't do it. I grabbed hold of her as we were being swept around the corner, heading for the Exuma Bank. John and Sandy were beginning to turn around too, but they were making no progress at all. We tried to head out further from the island to escape the main eddies of current, but the cut to the Sound is wide, and a lot of water was coming toward us. We stayed together, as the five of us were carried along. We slowly stroked with bent knees, but were powerless to go back. In the distance we saw a small boat, and hoped it was Lori coming in the dinghy. It wasn't, and kept on going. But then, a center console outboard changed course headed toward our little group. I waved, and they waved back. Soon they pulled up, and we climbed on board. I asked if they had seen Lori, and they said she sent them after us. Shortly, Lori came around the corner, pulling John's dinghy behind. Whew! That was a little scary. We all did well, and no one was hurt but it taught us a good lesson. (The interesting part is they were the only other boat traffic encountered all day. Our guardian angel was certainly working overtime). After our adventure with the caves we started to head to an abandoned DECCA station. (As information: During the beginning days of WWII the US was involved in sending materiel and supplies to Great Britain. Part of this lend-lease agreement was the right to set up bases in "colonies", including the Bahamas. So was born AUTEC <Atlantic Underwater Testing and Evaluation Center> and several sites were established around the Islands. In fact, several are still operational on Andros, the biggest Island in the country, located west of the Exuma chain). Anyway, on our way to the site located on the west side of Pipe Cay I picked up the fuel tank, and didn't like its' weight. Our 15 HP Suzuki four stroke is very fuel efficient, and we had one spare gallon of fuel back on the boat, but it felt like the 3 gallon tank was only about half full. Not good. We didn't want to run out of fuel. (One "close call" per day is quite sufficient, thank you). We went into Compass Cay Marina to see if by chance they sold fuel. I didn't think so, and was correct. Our next destination was the Exuma Park headquarters. They definitely don't sell fuel there, so, maybe we can see the DECCA station on the way "back north". 2-2-01 Matt started flying his kite again this morning. To extend the range we tied the kite string to B's fishing pole line. As he reeled it out I cautioned the end of the reel may not be attached, so be careful. About five minutes later the call "kite overboard" was heard. The kite string fell off the reel, and slowly drifted back to the water. It took a couple moments to load the oars and gas tank into MOE. Matt was watching the spot where it landed, but the current flowing out the cut was moving fast. By the time we arrived on scene, it was no where to be found. Kira graciously offered to share her kite. We tied the end of the monofilament line off to the reel, and he was back in business. With the kite string and the fishing line we figure the kite flew about 1,000 feet in the air. It was just this "little bitty speck" up in the sky. The fishing pole did attract a "once over" look from the Park Ranger as he drove by in his outboard. This area is a "no-take" zone of anything above, or below the water. (= No fishing) We also were "over flown" by the DEA helicopter which is based in George Town. It sure is quiet. You hear virtually no noise until it is "right there". We've been told photos are taken of all activity. 2-3-01 Before we went snorkeling in the Rocky Dundas caves we met some folks in a dinghy who had just exited the water. Come to find out they were from Ozark, Arkansas, near Fort Smith, which isn't too far from where we live. What a small world! We invited John and Sandy over for dinner, and lit the BBQ to cook some spare ribs. They turned out very well, and everyone's tummy was full. 2-4-01 Time to move along. We exited O'Brien's Cay Cut on our way to Warderick Wells, the headquarters of Exuma Cays Land and Sea Park. They have 22 moorings in the north anchorage for which there is usually a waiting list. We made a reservation the day before, and if the moorings become free, they are assigned about 0900 the following morning. The water color in the anchorage is almost indescribable. We were assigned #4, and John received #2 (on the "outside", they said, meaning it was closer to the current flow through the cut). The Exuma Land and Sea Park is the result of a lot of dedication and work on the part of many folks over the years. Originally proposed by Daniel Beard, Superintendent of the Everglades National Park in Florida way back in 1953. He urged setting aside a portion of the Exuma Cays as a "buffer zone". Ultimately, an area eight miles wide and twenty-two miles long was established. With Coral Gardens in distress all around the globe, Exuma Park is a designated replenishment area for the Bahamas. After securing the boat we took the dinghy up to check in. You can join what's called the "Support Fleet" (pricing varies by boat size, but up to 45 feet is $50) which includes two nights use of a mooring. We opted to do this as the extra funds go to help the park. In the office they have maps to numerous hiking trails which criss-cross the island. One trail in particular, is a "must" for the cruising visitor. Ray Darville, the Park Warden has named a lot of the local "residents". "Boo Boo" is a six foot Lemon Shark, who has his own beach, and hill, in turn named after him! Boo Boo Hill is an eclectic collection of personalized mementos left by the cruising community over the years. Several hundred signs made with varying degrees of creativity mark the passage of previous visitors. Some recorded multiple visits (one sign had annual dates from 1992 through 1999). For all you Trawler World types, Dolph and Bev McCrane's "Right Whale" sign was there from May 2,000. We found a good size piece of beach "driftwood" and took it back to the boat. Kira found another smaller piece of wood for John and Sandy. B and I got out the trusty Dremel tool and carved a sign for "Nostrum Again". It had all our names, and the date of visit. Hunter Green paint was applied to the carved out area, and it looked pretty good, in a rustic sort of way. (Funny how before this board was "beach trash", and now it's an "object d' art"!) When we dropped off Jubilee's "board" we met another of the park's "famous residents. Bubba a five-foot barracuda, is quite curious. I suspect that's partly the result of his being fed by park personnel, and visitors. Personally, however, I'd just as soon stay out of the water when there's a multi-toothed fish almost as big as I, nearby. 2-5-01 Following school, we took the signs back up to Boo-Boo Hill for placement. Photos were taken to record the "historic event". The view from the hilltop is quite spectacular. Multi-shades of blue and turquoise near shore interspersed with submarine coral, backed by the deep blue of the ocean, is nearly breathtaking. Unfortunately, you can also see where a boat cut a most distinct path not too far off shore right across the reef for probably a mile. (I have no idea when this occurred, but coral is extremely slow growing, somewhere around one inch per year, so repairing the damage will take many, many years). Later we took the dinghy and look bucket to float over the reefs in the north and south end of the north anchorage. The sky to the north was becoming progressively dark, and the forecast arrival of a mild cold-front seemed about to come true. That evening we moved some on the mooring, but Jubilee was really rocking on the "outer" mooring. (Moral of the story: Try and be assigned an inner mooring, if possible). 2-6-01 Following the passage of the front, a fresh easterly breeze was blowing. The trip further south was a straight shot on the deep Sound side, but with the strong wind it would not only be an uncomfortable ride but a difficult return passage through one of the cuts. Therefore, we opted to take the "less direct", but more comfortable "Bank" route. This required a little bit of moving around to avoid sand bores and reef, but we made it just fine. Our destination was Staniel Cay. Jubilee went in to anchor near Thunderball Grotto, but there was too much current, and not enough good holding ground to suit us, so we motored back to the west side of Big Major Spot Cay. This anchorage (24 11.4 N, 76 27.5 W) has great holding, and good protection from the north through the southeast. The dinghy fuel tanks were refilled at Staniel Cay Yacht Club. Good size nurse sharks and rays "hang out" where they clean the fish off the dock. It was fun to watch them eat. The restaurant here is really cool, and we walked inside to look around. Chairs are made from recycled rum barrels, and decorations are totally nautical. Although we didn't eat there, the food is supposed to be excellent. Ray, the Warden at Warderick Wells was having lunch along with his two Bahamas Defense Force protection team. One was carrying an UZI, and the other a really big sidearm. (Wouldn't want to mess with them). We walked to the store via the road paralleling the beach. Huge sinkhole "washouts" mar the path. In a couple places the roadbed is non-existent because of the hole. These vehicle swallowing holes are not marked. On the other, hand there's not much traffic, so I guess it's not a problem. The last time we really provisioned was Spanish Wells 10 days ago, and we thought we could stock up here. Not quite. There are three grocery stores on the Island, but the stock of all three combined isn't much to talk about. We'll have to try again elsewhere. We did find some fresh bread, but it was really over baked and dry, so not the best we've found. 2-7-01 Low tide is supposed to be 1320, and we have another (very famous) cave to explore. "Thunderball" Grotto was featured in the James Bond film by the same name. Scenes from "Splash" and "Cocoon" were also filmed here, among others. But, at anything much more than low tide you have to swim "under" to enter, so we arrived a bit before low. Unfortunately, a strong east wind also tends to "blow" water ahead into the inlet, and there was some current already present. There are a couple dinghy moorings on the west opening. We tied up, and everyone went snorkeling. Once inside, sunlight makes the water color iridescent blue. The school of Sergeant Major fish is huge. There are a couple different rooms inside, and even a huge Grouper. Afterward swimming out the east opening we let the current take us around the west side back to the dinghies and look at all the coral growing around the base of the island. Then, since it was lunchtime we went to Club Thunderball to eat. Lori and I had Conchburgers, and the kids had cheeseburgers. It was tasty, but pricey, too. While at lunch we watched a sailboat cross to the other side of the inlet perpendicular to (across) the current. Boy was he rolling! (Rail to rail). The current with a Full Moon tide and the wind made a fierce display. Standing waves and a river race show some of the power of nature. We took MOE to the beach upon our return to visit another "storied" resident. Staniel Cay is home to swimming pigs! These swine (a pair of them) will swim out to meet you in hopes of a hand-out. Some old cabbage went down real well, but beware, don't mess with a big pig who's eating. Brandon got too close, and the biggest one tried to bite him on the forehead! (He'll survive) It's on video for the next airing of "When Good Pigs Go Bad", or "When Swine Attack"! (be sure to check your local listings). 2-8-01 Today we're going to Black Point, another anchorage a little further south (24 06.3 N 76 24.5 W). The wind is still blowing strong from North to Northeast, but the protection and holding here is good. The cruising guide lists four grocery stores, but only one was open. Again selection was pretty limited. Something happened both here and Staniel Cay that was sort of discouraging. Very little stock is priced, so you don't know how much things cost. In addition, the person behind the counter who "rings up" the order either with an adding machine, or by hand just announces a total. OK, so that's how it works. The discouraging part has had to do with the "change" offered. Two different times the change returned was significantly short, and unfortunately, done with intention. Cruisers may not make up the bulk of their business, but they were the only ones making purchases during the times mentioned. (Cruisers generally stand out from the local population for obvious reasons). It seems to me that practice is a good way to kill the "goose that laid the golden egg". It's painfully clear that many Bahamians (especially so in the Exumas) don't have a lot of material possessions. Even though these were hopefully isolated incidents, you certainly won't endear visitors by trying to cheat them. We tried to make a phone call home. The settlement has two public phones right in front of the BatelCo office, neither one of which work. We'll have to try again elsewhere. 2-9-01 There's a path that goes from the palm lined beach out to Dotham Point. Today is still windy, and cloudier than yesterday. "B", Lori, and I walked out to look at the cut to Exuma Sound. It made an impressive display with huge waves crashing against the shore. I certainly wouldn't want to pass through today. Rain began on our way walk back to the settlement. Lorraine's Caf has fresh bread baked by Lorraine's Mom. Walking in we sort of looked like "drowned rats", but managed to buy two more loaves of bread, nonetheless. It tasted good. Pantry stocks really dictate re-provisioning, so the plan is to get closer to George Town where more is available. At least, that is the plan. 2-10-01 The wind has clocked more to the east, and seemed to have quieted some, too. The weather report sounds encouraging, so we're good to go. Our next destination is Lee Stocking Island, home of the Caribbean Research Center. They very thoughtfully provide moorings for the cruising community, and best yet, they're free! The trip down was a little bumpy, but not bad. It was a total of 35 miles portal to portal. Leaving Dotham Cut the view was spectacular! Waves were breaking all along the panoramic shoreline in a graceful arc, as the island chain curves seaward. The wind and seas did build some as we progressed further south. With one exception, all the cuts in the central and southern Exumas face east-west. That means with an eastward component to wind and subsequent seas, entry can be interesting. Adderly Cut is the approach to Lee Stocking Island, and is marked by a large stone cairn on Adderly's southern shore, and a low lying house on the northern shore of Lee Stocking. There's a breaking reef on the southern half of the opening which needs to be avoided. The water depth goes from about 4,000 feet in the Sound to just 50 feet or so in the cut within the space of one fifth of a mile. As we made our way it looked like there were occasional breaking waves across most of the entrance. Hmm... After observing for a while through the binoculars we decided to go. Two tricky parts needed to be negotiated. First, making the turn to head into the cut exposed us to a beam sea. Secondly, we needed to time the crossing so as not to be caught by a breaking wave. As we turned I increased the engine RPM's to help negotiate the cut. Brandon yells up "I smell smoke in the cabin". Since I was a little busy right then, Lori went below to investigate. She found nothing, and returned to the flybridge. After a few tense moments we were through the cut and could collectively "breathe" once again. Upon further investigation we discovered that the "smoke" smell was actually a bottle of "liquid smoke" (Lori uses in marinades) with a loose cap! The cupboard did, in fact, smell like an old campfire! (Much preferable to a new fire, however). The Caribbean Marine Research Center is closed on weekends, so a visit ashore will have to wait until Monday. A mooring was available so we took it. Guess what? The free moorings are also very well maintained. Such a deal. The other thing "B" noticed right off the bat was "Lark" and "Ocean Explorer" (two boats with the correct age kids aboard. Once secured, both B and Kira went to visit). They had the best time jumping off Lark's halyard and splashing into the water. 2-11-01 Unfortunately, the "kids" and their sailboats all left this morning on their way to George Town. B, Lori and I took MOE over to explore Norman's Pond Cay. One hundred and twenty years ago salt drying ponds were set up in an interior "lake" fed by a tidal stream. We tried to find these, but later determined we were looking in the wrong spot. It was fun playing "explorer" and trying to find non-existent trails. We did find another absolutely pristine "South Seas" beach with crystal clear water, white "sugar" sand, and a backdrop of palm trees. No one else was anywhere in sight. We beached the dinghy, and went to explore. A visitor did arrive, however, as we slowly walked along the beach. The dark gray shape appeared and swam ever closer to us. The water was shallow, but didn't prevent this 3-4' Bull Shark from coming in to investigate. He shadowed, or rather stalked us for a good while. Finally, B threw a handful of sand in the water in his direction, and like lightning he swam away. I thought the guys in "gray suits" didn't come out to feed until twilight. Not so in this case, as it was high noon. After continuing around the island we came back to where Adderly Cut is located. It didn't look quite as "lively" as the day before. Hopefully we'll be able to head to George Town tomorrow. 2-12-01 During the night the wind piped up, and is blowing strong today. As I awoke an "un-named" sailboat dropped its mooring and was headed toward the cut. I called on the VHF radio and asked if they had up-to-date weather info. The very terse reply was winds East 15 knots. She condescendingly added, "that's no problem for us". I thanked her and asked if they could give us a report of the conditions at Adderly Cut. She said she would, but did not. Shortly thereafter another sailboat left. First they ran aground on a sandbar leaving the moorage. It wasn't too bad because there was a rising tide, and about fifteen minutes later they floated off. While leaving the cut they radioed to the first boat that the waves were running about 5', with breakers most of the way across. They made it through, and turned south toward George Town. About an hour later the first boat radioed the second that they were "not happy". The seas were running 6-8', and they were "unable to raise sail" because the wind was "on the nose" at 20-25 knots. Furthermore, their speed over ground was only somewhat less than 3 knots. The next call came at 1200. They reported being 14 miles away from the George Town approach waypoint. Since they left at 0800 and the cut to cut distance is 20 nautical miles they had only made 6 miles in four hours; "ouch". If you feel it might be better to just stay and await better weather, that's what you should do. Today, at least, we made the right call. A whole group of cruisers on the moorings, and at anchor were going to visit the research center at 1330. The Caribbean Marine Research Center is funded by NOAA (National Oceanographic and Atmospheric Administration) and is utilized by University Researchers from the US, and other parts of the world. While walking around we talked to one of the other couples. Come to find out the crew of "Outrageous" is from Ft. Smith, Arkansas. (Again not far from our home near Branson, MO. Southwest Missouri and Northwest Arkansas; not exactly "cruising capitols"). While talking with Jeremy the on-site director of the Research Center we mentioned not finding the salt pond ruins the day before. He produced a chart, and showed us where we made the mistake. He also said there was a cave on Norman's Pond Cay. He cautioned not to enter this one, because there were several air pockets and it was very easy to lose track of your position and be unable to retrace your steps to exit. No thanks. Not for us. Those sorts of explorations are best left to highly competent, well trained divers with local knowledge. 2-13-01 Our pantry supply is reaching "situation critical". We're down to very limited selection of foodstuffs. Hopefully tomorrow the weather will moderate and we can head to George Town. Today, however, "the wind she blows". There are several hiking trails on Lee Stocking Island, and we decided to explore them following school. You must ask permission to land from the Research Center, and tell them where you intend to visit. Having done that, we set out. Three trail heads leave from a beach on the southwestern side of the island. This is another one of those beaches you "dream of" while snowed in somewhere. You must stay on the path because the island is covered with Poisonwood Trees. A member of the Sumac family, the leaves and sap cause severe itching and skin irritation. Easily identified once you know what to look for, you need to give them wide berth. We hiked along, first climbing, and then descending to the Atlantic (Sound) side. What a view. There is a place where you can see it all. You have a bird's eye view of the island's airstrip, beautiful Sound side beaches, many with little coves. Lots of off shore coral reef complete the picture. After returning to MOE Matt wanted to be dropped back at the boat. The rest of us (including Clover) armed with the knowledge of "where" the salt ruins were located, set off. We found the tidal stream, and "hiked" up into the interior pond. The beach side is marked by the ruins of an old limestone dock. Handcut stones placed probably to load the finished salt product. The tide was ebbing, but the stream was only a foot or two deep. In some spots Clover did have to "swim for it", but she had a ball. To call the interior water of this Cay a "pond", is quite an understatement. It is huge. Mangrove trees are busy making little islets in several spots. There's something pretty special about walking places where there are no other footprints. So much of modern day life is following the "herd mentality". It's refreshing to know places still exist where you can really be all alone, if desired. 2-14-01 Happy Valentine's Day! The wind has moderated some, and the forecast sounds better. Seeing as we are basically out of food, today is the time to leave. Exiting the cut was much easier than our entry a few days ago. Two other sailboats left shortly after we, but they both headed north. The seas were running about 4', but not directly abeam, so the ride was more comfortable. As we went south from Lee Stocking, someone called another sailboat from shore and facetiously said "your bottom paint looks real good". They were healed over at a pretty good angle. The entry into George Town sound sort of intimidating from reading the description. In reality, if you just take it in "small bites", one step at a time, there's no problem. We anchored off Hamburger Beach (23 31.7 N 75 46.2 W There's Hamburger, Volley Ball, and Sand Dollar beaches, in addition to several other anchorages). First order of business; food. Matt wanted to stay on the boat, but the rest piled into MOE. The downside to our location is about a two mile dinghy ride to town. On a flat day that's no big deal, but it can become a "wet ride" if the wind is blowing. The wind was blowing. Exuma Markets has a great dinghy dock available for cruiser use. The dock is located on Lake Victoria, and is accessed through a low, narrow bridge (8' wide, and 8' clearance above) After docking we asked a lady where we might buy lunch. She said "Go to Eddies Edgewater" cafe. The kids ordered cheeseburgers, and Lori and I had Conch burgers. They were good, and reasonable priced. (Warning: "Soapbox Alert") The opinions and observations are mine. Your mileage may vary. While there we overheard another couple at a table nearby asking for Turtle. The waitress said they would be having more Turtle in the next day. Turtles, especially sea Turtles, are endangered species. Reproduction rates are low, and several groups spend considerable time and effort trying to save these creatures from extinction. After seeing turtles swimming free in the ocean, it's sad to think of them in soup, or as "steak" on a plate. Restaurants would not serve, nor offer them as menu fare if no demand existed. Why do seemingly intelligent folks still support this destruction? When we stayed at Cape E Marina a small Bahamian skiff came in from fishing one afternoon completely full of cleaned conch. There must have been 60-80 pounds of conch in that boat. Fishing regulations dictate only "mature" Conch be harvested (one with a developed "lip" on the shell). Unfortunately, piles and piles of Conch Shells abound, many below legal size. Lobster used to be much more plentiful in these waters. There's a fundamental reason lobster boats have to set "traps" so far out, because areas closer have been over fished. You can only "take" so much. The sea is abundant, if species are allowed to reproduce. But, if all the mature, and juvenile members of a group are killed, who'll be around to foster future progeny? We human beings have made lots of mistakes in our stewardship of Mother Earth. It's sad to see that all in all, not much has been learned. One of the main tourist attractions of the Bahamas is the beauty of the natural environment. Will tourist still come if the sea is devoid of life? I don't know. I just don't know. After lunch we went shopping for groceries. The mail boat had just come in, and the well stocked store had full shelves with good selection. While going over to buy fresh bread from Mom's Bakery, we passed many school children coming home from classes. Kira saw many of the younger ones carrying Valentine hearts and cards home from school parties. She got real sad thinking about the school party she missed. Mom, who sells the baked goods out of her mini-van is a real sweetheart. She gives everyone who buys something a big hug, and words of encouragement. When she saw Kira, she said "why so sad?" Then she said, "wait a minute" and went back into her van to retrieve a huge cinnamon roll. She gave it to Kira, and said, "maybe this will make you feel better". What a sweet lady. She gave Brandon a donut, too. Leaving to go back to the boat the tide was ebbing against the East wind. This set up a series of 1' standing waves spaced about 6" apart. We did get wet (somebody warned us about that!). After the groceries were put away we secretly (as secret as you can be in a confined space) began making Valentine's Day cards for Kira. We found a plastic box, and made a name tag. Soon she had lots of cards from everyone, including Clover. That brought a smile back. (She now has them hung in her "loft" decorating the side of the radar display). Whew! That was close. 2-15-01 After school we went to town and walked around. There's a nice little straw market where Lori bought a new bread basket. The owner makes them right there, and the workmanship is very good. We found a color photo (coffee table type) book with beautiful pictures and commentary of the Southern Bahamas. It covers many of the areas we've visited lately. We also found two underwater cameras to take photos of places we intend to visit still. The cruising community of George Town is a hoot. Presently there are a little over 400 boats here. They expect another 200 or so by the time the Regatta starts here on March 10, 2001. Many of these folks come here year after year. A whole sub-culture has developed. Adult Volley Ball is "serious business" around here. Aerobics classes take place on the beach Mon.- Sat. morning. Another group called the ""Salty Singers" get together to sing. Every morning there's a "thought for the day". Every evening there's trivial pursuit on the VHF channel 72. (Questions asked evoke responses form numerous different boats). Water color painting classes take place on the beach Monday mornings. In the evening there's story time on the radio. Another boater broadcasts "dinner music" around 1800 hours Men's and women's softball take place several times per week. Others play tennis regularly. On Sunday morning at 0930 there's Beach Church, a non-denominational service which takes place on rough hewn wooden benches on the beach. The "Chat and Chill" bar and grill is located on Volley Ball beach. You can tell if they're open for business by whether or not their shuttered windows are propped up (up=open;down=closed). Kids...my gosh there are lots of kids here. All ages from the little guys up through teenagers. Kira and B are having an absolute ball. One of the big Australian Pines on V.B. beach is loaded with swings. Rope swings, a large round fender, kiddy swings, and the enviable "skate board". This is a piece of wood (at one time a stringer in a small dinghy) which is an air board. If you can dream up the "trick", you can do it. A kid's paradise. At night the anchor lights are absolutely amazing. It looks like a magical twinkle forest. Unbelievable. 2-16-01 A little over a week ago we had a catastrophe. Our laptop computer was booting up, and the battery went dead. So, the boot was incomplete resulting in an error message. It quit before loading the keyboard driver, so when prompted to hit such and such a key, nothing happened. Oh no. We have almost one year's worth of digital photos of our trip. It would be a real tragedy to lose those. (I know... I know we should have a back-up. The problem is the photos are real data intensive. When we get back to the states I think we'll purchase a CD burner, and make back-ups that way. Not an option at present, though) This morning on the Cruiser's Net I made a plea for some computer whiz to help. David on "Imagine" responded, and said he'd try to help us out. Imagine is a beautiful catamaran, and I dingied over this morning. He had another keyboard which we hooked up, and guess what(?!?) it booted right up. Saved, but entirely too close for comfort. After school we hauled anchor and went over George Town Exuma Docking Service. They are the only vendor to sell diesel fuel in the area. I was prepared to be astounded by monopolistic pricing, but, guess what? Diesel was $2.34 per gallon. The cheapest we've found in our time here. And, this is the farthest destination to transport fuel. Go figure. We filled the tanks, and headed over to anchor off V.B. beach. I took B up to the beach to have a walk-about. He met some of the other kids from Lark, Ocean Explorer, and Free Bird and soon was off playing. Too soon sunset approached and we headed home. 2-17-01 Today is another adventure day. The Two Turtles Inn rents Jeeps for the day. Originally we'd talked about maybe renting motor scooters to tour the island, but the cost and some legal considerations made that less attractive. There was one Jeep left, a lime green 1972 CJ 5. This was the real Caribbean deal. Steering wheel on the right side, odometer and speedometer inoperative, fuel gauge always reads empty, ("but hey Mon, the people who rent it yesterday put $10 gas in, it be fine") barely serviceable tires, no doors or top, no seat belts, not even a back seat (a board over the rear wheel wells) and all the thrill you can handle. Seriously, we probably didn't go over 30 MPH, (I'm not sure it would even go much faster) and heading south other traffic was almost non-existent. Our first destination was the "Shark Lady" of Little Exuma Island. Gloria Patience was born, and lived the majority of her life on Little Exuma, and Hog Cay, the next cay south. She lives in her house which is also a museum of sorts, and is a real treat to meet. The clerk at Two Turtles called to make sure Gloria would be home. Initially access to Little Exuma was by hand propelled ferry (in fact the area is still called "The Ferry"). You can see the remains of the ferry ladings still. There's now a one lane bridge connecting the two islands. Gloria lives around the bend next to the "Cake Lady" who is one of her daughters. We knocked, and she let us in. A warm hand shake and greetings and she opened her home to us. Quite a collector, she has lots of historical artifacts and information about. Talking to her about life as it was, though, proved the real treat. From growing up in these islands, to raising nine children she has seen a lot. Always very independent, and free spirited Gloria embraces life on her terms. She still goes fishing for shark in her 13 foot Boston Whaler. The kids got a real kick out of meeting and talking with her. >From there we drove to the southern tip of the island to see some ruins of an old cotton plantation. An abandoned salt pond operation where the old wall dividers to evaporate out the salt is very evident. Directly across the road on a small rise is a tall Grecian style column constructed as a mark for sailing ships to come load salt. At its' height ships all the way from Nova Scotia would visit regularly to transport ocean salt. On the way back we drove to the ruins of the old plantation house. Unfortunately, again the house has been left to the elements. Gloria said she used to visit regularly, and it was indeed a grand house. As promised, the Jeep made it there, and back without running out of fuel. We had lunch (Grouper sandwiches) at Two Turtles, and then dingied back to the boat. When we drove by the Laundromat it was nearly deserted, so we decided this afternoon would be a good time to catch up on laundry. First we dropped B and Kira off at the beach to play with their "buds". Nine loads of laundry later we were on our way back. It's always a good feeling to get that task out of the way. Upon return B and Kira were totally excited about a beach bonfire cook-out that was planned for the kids. "Could they go"? Of course. We'd finally caught up with "Lark", in particular. We first met Ben, Leslie, Ian and Ali on the dinghy dock in Marsh Harbor the very day we were set to leave. We next crossed paths in Royal Harbor, Eleuthera when leaving for Spanish Wells. Lastly they were leaving Lee Stocking Island the day after we arrived. (Ian is 11, and Ali is 8, a perfect match for a B and Kira. In addition, they get along fabulously). All the kids ate hot dogs, and made smores on the beach. There were several adults there, too, from many boats, and it was a very pleasant evening. 2-18-01 Sunday morning dawned calm and beautiful The wind finally stopped blowing. The kids requested more beach time, and we agreed. A water sports center rents Sunfish Sailboats, and offers Banana Boat rides (a yellow float toy shaped like a 20' banana which you ride like a horse pulled behind an outboard) on Sunday. The whole group of kids went. They had a blast. Captain Rolle's fishing boat announced on the radio that they had fresh Grouper for sale. We took the dinghy over and bought a small one. They even filleted him for us. Matt was reading a new book, so Lori, Clover and I went for a dinghy ride. Stocking island has three basins, one of which has moorings for rent for longer term vessel storage (no liveaboards). Near the entrance to one of these basins is a path that leads to the Atlantic side. We hiked over. A beautiful wide beach lines the east side of the island. The Sound was flat calm. What a treat. There's a wrecked sailboat from Houston, TX on the beach. It's sad, and scary to see a boat such as this on the beach. Lots of personal items were still on board, but anything of value had been "salvaged". A sobering sight. Speaking of reading, Kira is now easily digesting Brandon's fifth grade level books. We're delighted that they both enjoy reading. We bar-b-qued the fish in aluminum foil, and boy was it good. It sure would be nice if this calm weather would last, but it was not to be. 2-19-01 This morning about 0130 a mild cold front moved through. Low pressure is stalled just north of us, and high pressure is building off the SE US coast. That's a recipe for strong E-SE winds, and guess what we had? One cruiser this morning said it felt like she was in a washing machine! Report said there were sustained winds of 26 knots, gusting to 32. I believe it. Everybody is literally in the "same boat". Initially forecasts called for the winds to dissipate Monday PM, that didn't happen. It's funny, because you can hear the frustration in people's voices on the radio. People lamenting that the calm didn't last. Others complaining of getting wet riding in the dinghies. Still others saying it was tough to get on and off the boat, with it bouncing around. Now the "Herbcast" (weather report from Herb in Canada on single side band radio; call sign Southbound II) says one more day of this, with slight moderation on Wed., followed by another front on Friday. This afternoon Lori and I "rescued" an inflatable dinghy. We looked out and say a deflated tender drifting across the harbor. Someone on the radio alerted others to the fact, and another said "go get it". Since it was closest to us, we did. It hadn't been in the water all that long, but was definitely damaged (a large hole in one of the tubes, and both floor boards were gone). First we tried to tow it back, but it was so windy we were afraid the tow line would get into the engine prop. Then we hoisted part of it aboard, and slowly motored toward shore. Others had been watching, because a call was sent on the radio that we needed assistance, so another boater came to offer his. By that time we had things under control. We towed it and left it on the beach. As it was, someone may have run over it, so at least it was out of the way. We did get wet, though. I'm going to try and send this tomorrow. This (Two Turtles Inn) is the first spot we've run across in 6 weeks with a phone jack for e-mail access. Best wishes to all, Bob

Hi Bob, Loved your chronology of the Exumas - was there last year and three years ago. If you get this in time, don't miss a tour with "Christine", the medicine lady. She is as much a fixture as Gloria, the Shark Lady, and loves us cruisers. I think she answers to Taxi 21 on VHFbut all the locals know how to reach her. Joe and Myra Chernow MV Liquidity, Offshore 62