Here's the latest from Dick and Gail Barnes, aboard Ice Dancer II, a Nordhavn 57. Copy and paste the co-ordinates provided into <http://maps.google.com> to follow their progress north. Saturday 3/31/07 Puerto Ayora 00 44.9 South 090 18.5 West At 4 p.m., we dropped anchor at Puerto Ayora, Isla Santa Cruz, Islas Galapagos. The 2,550 nautical mile passage took 12 days and three hours. We arrived with 200 gallons of diesel on board. Both time and remaining fuel were just about as planned. We arrived rested, although rising for watches after the first three hours of sleep during the passage was never easy. Watching dvd movies made staying awake less troublesome. We saw no other boats on the passage, but kept watch on radar and AIS, on all nights. Unlike our visit to Puerto Ayora in December, there is a cadre of about 25 cruising sailboats anchored in the harbor. This is a natural stop for sailboats heading to the Marquesas and on to Tonga and New Zealand. Wind direction and currents are favorable for that route. Family will join us on April 8 and leave on April 15. On April 16, we will fuel at Baltra, a nearby island, and head for Zihautanejo. In the meantime, we are not allowed to move Ice Dancer II, so we will be using excursion boats to visit various sites in the islands. Weather is pleasant with some fog. On the opposite side of the island it is quite warm, if conditions are the same as we experienced in December. 3/31/07 Offshore Ecuador 01 44.9 south 089 55.6 west We are on the glide path to Puerto Ayora--65 nm to go and Nobeltec shows that we will arrive around 3:40 this afternoon, CST. Four different currents converge, here, and one of the interesting results is fog, which we have this morning, and 77 degree water, down from 87, yesterday. Uninterrupted sleep, tonight. What a treat! Tuesday 3/27/07 Offshore Peru 13 24.6 south 085 42.4 west Our passage is going along right on plan. If conditions remain the same, we should anchor in Puerto Ayora on Saturday afternoon. The job of lookout has not been demanding. Since leaving Valdivia eight days ago, we have not seen another boat. Fishing and transport vessels run closer to the coast. Our route has us 490 miles off of Peru, at this point. Flying squid continue to amaze. Clean up this morning was 15 squid and two flying fish. The record squirter made it on top of the pilot house, although we haven't checked the bimini top. Fishing has been a little odd, with two released, undersized mahimahi and a huge two very large billfish that we were able to shake off the hook. Weather today was overcast, with 20 knots of SE wind on the starboard quarter. Water temperature is up to 79.5 degrees. Monday 3/26/07 Offshore Peru 17 33.2 south 084 08.1 west It is hard to imagine that we raised anchor in a snowstorm, on March first, and now we are in tropical waters. Water temperature at noon was 75.5 degrees, it is sunny and nice. We had eight squid and two flying fish on board, this morning. One squid this morning and the same yesterday, managed to land on the boat deck, about 15 feet above the water. One came through the pilot house door. How do they do it? The seas were fairly mild and no water was shipping aboard. Oil for the main engine was changed this morning. 42 quarts of 175 degree used oil plus a large filter. It is easier in a calm anchorage, but we were running on our auxiliary engine in a rolling sea. It was time. Our stabilizers were helping, powered by the large hydraulic pump on the auxiliary. Peru is 500 miles east of us and we have 1070 nautical miles left to Puerto Ayora, Islas Galapagos. One fishing lure is dragging through the water, in a half-hearted attempt a catching something. We may be a little south for tuna or mahimahi. Thursday 3/22/07 Noon Offshore Chile 30 37.7 south 078 29.7 west Big seas, yesterday, but improving today. No sign of Humboldt current. No push and 70 degree water. It should be under 60 degrees and pushing. It may be an El Nino issue. When we passed Isla Robinson Crusoe, in the Juan Fernandez group, the seas were raging. We had 36 knots of wind and 12-14 foot seas, on the port quarter and beam, so, putting out a fishing line was not a good option. One of our autopilot rudder pumps failed. Fortunately, we have a redundant autopilot system. Fuel is going ok, but the expected Humboldt current would have allowed more margin. I have throttled back a little. Oil change day is Monday or Tuesday. That should be interesting. The hardest part is the oil filter, which is large. The filter holds two quarts of oil and when it is hot, it is awful to handle without getting burned or spilling. I will turn on the wing engine while the operation is underway. Tuesday 3/20/07 Noon Offshore Chile 36 49.9 south 075 13.9 West Weather is clear and bright, due to the S. Pacific high out our port window. Yesterday afternoon was boisterous with large swells and 25 knots of wind waves on our port quarter and beam. So far, today, we have calmer winds. The large swells are still with us. The grib file weather forecasts show 25 knot winds tomorrow and the next, on our track. We are enjoying a push of 0.2 to 0.5 knots of Humboldt current. That's nice, but we were due, after coming south against it. We are trying to get used to three hour watches, again. It will take a few days. Monday 3/19/07 Offshore from Valdivia 39 25.7 South 073 41.5 West This morning, we checked out of the country with the Armada's port captain, immigration and national police and cast off into Rio Valdivia. Offshore seas were influenced by storms to the south, causing high winds and large seas on the port quarter and abeam. We spent four days in Valdivia, and it was a real treat. We stayed at the dock of a boat builder that makes power and sail catamarans, mostly for U.S. clients. The business is owned by a German that arrived 25 years ago on a sailboat, and decided to stay. The town is 8 miles up Rio Valdivia from the ocean. It has a large contingent of Germans and its culture, in a positive way, is seen in many ways. The weather was clear and mild. Large trees were growing, everywhere. It was sort of the best of the Pacific Northwest and the San Juan Islands. Friday 3/16/07 Rio Valdivia We took on 1,386 gallons of diesel from a tank truck, today, in preparation for our passage to Islas Galapagos. The fuel came from YPF, the national oil company of neighbor country, Argentina. This is the same company that supplied our fuel at Ushuaia, and proved to be very clean. Diesel price was $3.39/gallon. Thursday 3/15/07 Rio Valdivia 39 51 South 73 19 West Yesterday's transit of the notorious Canal Chacao came off without a hitch. The overnight run to Rio Valdivia was into a head sea. We entered the river and passed Puerto Corral at 8 a.m., in dense fog. Using charts and radar, we made it to Alwoplast's dock, about six miles upstream, before nine. Concrete walls, designed to channel flow and protect river banks, subsided below the surface during a massive earthquake in 1960. Now they are a hazard to navigation if you stray out of the fairway. Wednesday 3/14/07 Canal Chacao 42 19.3 South 073 15.4 West We anchored early yesterday and will leave late this morning from Caleta Anihue, near Mechuque. The plan is to enter Canal Chacao at the end of an ebb tide and enter ocean waters when the tide begins to flood. The worst waves are those opposing an ebb tide. Canal Chacao is 15 miles of tidal race, that can reach 10 knots. If our planned schedule works out, we will continue on overnight and enter Rio Valdivia on an incoming tide, Thursday morning. We have a reservation at Alwoplast, which is a boat builder located on the river that accommodates a few visiting yachts. Once again, the contrast between the rugged and rough south and the upper, inside passage area is striking. The hills here have softer contours and much of it is cultivated for crops or pasture. It looks very much like the San Juan Islands. Every available cove seems to have aqua-culture businesses. Many are employed in the trade, considering caring for the fish, transporting supplies, people and product. Monday 3/12/07 Golfo de Corcovado 43 15.9 South 073 12.3 West The good and bad news about southern Chile storms is that they move through very quickly. This morning was very benign and sunny. Sunday was raging. The further north we travel, the more protection we will get from the South American high. You can see the isobars on the weather fax spreading further apart, indicating less wind. We plan to stop at a small village this afternoon, and anchor where we can pick up critical supplies (wine, fruit and veggies). Wednesday afternoon, we will traverse Canal Chacao and out to sea. This is equivalent to exiting the Columbia River into the North Pacific, except with greater tides. We will run overnight for a morning tide that will help us up Rio Valdivia. After getting fuel and provisions, we will exit Chile from Valdivia, rather than continue up the coast to Iquique, as previously planned. Sunday 3/11/07 Puerto Juan Yates 43 38.6 South 073 00.6 West Weather cleared and seas were calm when we crossed Golfo de Cocovado to Puerto Juan Yates. On rocky islets in our anchorage were penguins with young chicks. The cove was rich with sea mammals and birds. Saturday 3/10/07 Caleta Amita 44 04.9 South 073 52.8 West It was tough sledding in the main inside channel, Canal Moreleda, so we moved in among the islands and worked our way north, through Canal Perez. At least the rain is warmer, and so is the water temperature. Both are up 10 to 15 degrees from the far south. Friday 3/9/07 Puerto Americano 45 01.5 South 073 41.9 West Anchored last night at Caleta Yate, in Canal Darwin. Decided not to continue in Darwin, today, because of adverse currents and poor charts. Instead, we returned to outside waters and moved north to Canal Ninualac. The route was wide, straight forward and well charted. We anchored in Puerto Americano and enjoyed a picnic on the beach. Thursday 3/8/07 Offshore Patagonia 45 30.2 South 074 54.6 West In another two hours, we will be turning into Canal Darwin. Yesterday, we crossed the Golfo de Penas in benign conditions and our luck continues today, with very little wind. We saw several minke whales and a freighter. We are a little tired after a late arrival at Caleta Cliff, then changing oil in the main. Before leaving this morning, the job was completed by changing the oil filter, which was too hot to deal with last night. Tonight, we will be back to inside-passage waters, so we will be less exposed to gales. The further north we go, the fewer storms we should see. The twin to the stationary North Pacific high sits a bit further north. Wednesday 3/7/07 Golfo de Penas 47 25.6 South 075 03.3 West We did have a lovely evening, yesterday. At anchor, our boat kept its bow toward the wind, and as luck had it, the sun was shinning from the opposite direction. Lounging in our deck chairs, behind the cabin, it was shorts and short sleeves and cold beer. The flying bridge was untenable, with 15 knots coming over the top at 55 degrees temperature. One day of clear weather was all that we were afforded. Today, we are crossing the Golfo de Penas in overcast. Winds are off the starboard quarter, which helps knock down the usual SW swell. We have a full day of it, so we will see if our good luck endures. One of our cruising guide books says that freighters don't cross when the weather is stormy. Now that's a thought. We plan to use Caleta Cliff for an anchorage tonight. We left marks on our chart plotter from our last ocean entry, so it should be an easy landing. Charts, both paper and electronic are way off from reality. It will be time to change oil in the main (42 quarts), so there will be that chore to tend to after we anchor. Tuesday 3/6/07 Canal Messier 48 47.6 South 074 24.9 West We passed through Angostura Inglesa this morning, a tight spot that sports high velocity currents. Moving through between ebb and flood tides tames the ride. Complaints about the weather seem to have made an impact. Today is without clouds; bright and sunny. The barometer has risen from 980 to 1020 in a day and a half. Traveling through the channels without seeing the scenery is not much fun. Tonight, we plan to anchor near Faro San Pedro and cross the Gulfo de Penas, tomorrow, weather permittng. Monday 3/5/07 Caleta Lucas 48 59.9 South 74 24.7 West Passed Puerto Eden, in improving weather, this morning. We reported by radio to the Armada station all of our boat and navigation information. Sunday 3/4/07 Canal Concepcion 50 16.1 South 074 35.2 West Left Puerto Mayne in heavy rain but reduced headwind. The storms and seas, here, are easy to recognize. Conditions are just like Alaska. When summer is over, it's over, and a parade of storms begin. The season is over--even the tour boats have disappeared from the channels. About five minutes of sunshine peaked through, this afternoon. Maybe it is a good sign. We have had wind and rain for several days. Yesterday, it was 35 to 40 knots on the nose, as a cold front passed. Added to the opposing current, we only made 6 to 7 knots of headway. We need to get up to 30 degrees south. After that, it should be reliably nice. One of our autopilot compasses is acting a little schizophrenic, but other than that, everything is working properly. We are warm and dry. We continue to pick up a few centolla crabs while at anchor overnight. They are so sweet and good, there is no need for melted butter. Anchored at Caleta Bolina with lines to trees. Friday 3/2/07 Caleta Darde 52 28.6 South 073 35.4 West Rain most of the day. Estrecho de Magallanes was very rough toward the west end, with some 40 knot winds. Current caused fits. Anchored in Caleta Darde in light rain. Thursday 3/1/07 Caleta Playa Parda 53 21.4 South 072 58.2 West We raised anchor this morning in a snowstorm. Good news was four centolla or small king crabs in our crab pot. We should have put the pot out weeks ago. Weather is squally in the Straits of Magellan. We start and anchor up early, to beat the afternoon winds. We are headed toward Caleta Playa Parda, about five miles ahead, and should have anchor down by 3:15 p.m. Winter is not far away, here. Wednesday 2/28/07 Caleta Hidden, Estrecho de Magallanes 53 56.9 South 071 35.2 West Rough crop early, but improving later. Humpback whales were passed, making their own journey through these waters. Anchored, swinging on a single-point with ample room. Wind and rain heavy. Tuesday, 2/27/07 Canal Balenero 54 26.1 South 071 59.4 West We are making progress to the west, which must come before turning north. We have just made a transition from Canal Brechnock into Canal Cockburn. The junction is located at an ocean entrance, which gives all kinds of interesting flows of currents, tides, winds, chop and swell. This morning, we were greeted by snow accumulations, half way down the mountains. The change of season is moving right along, and so must we. We finally put out a crab trap last night and caught a small king crab. Guess we better drop it again, tonight. Monday 2/26/07 Caleta Silva 54 56.9 South 070 46.5 West We have been at anchor since 2 p.m., yesterday, waiting for weather to improve. There is a crush zone between the permanent high and a deep low system pressing against it. Pressures dropped 2 mb per hour yesterday and last night; it is rebounding this afternoon, although winds are still brisk. Winds in the anchorage, today, have alternated between 15 and 40 knots, with frozen rain every twenty minutes. Our next segment, through Canal Brechnock and Canal Cockburn are exposed to ocean swell. So, we decided to hold up until winds calmed. We plan to leave early, Tuesday. Sunday 2/25/07 Brazo Noroeste 54 52.4 South 070 05.3 West We are back on the road, again, after enjoying two days in Caleta Olla (54 56.4S 69 09.4W). We anchored along with Egret, a 46 Nordhavn and two sailboats--one from Sweeden and the other from Norway. Scott and Nancy Flanders are living aboard full time and are having a grand adventure on Egret. Two stern lines ashore from each boat and tall trees on a wooded rise behind the beach, kept the brisk winds above us. Nearby, tall mountains made high frequency radio propagation impossible, so, we had no news from friends and family. We enjoyed dinners on our boat and on the other Nordhavn, where we swapped cruising experiences. Egret came to the Cape from the Mediterranean and plans to spend the winter in Ushuaia. Southern Patagonia shares many similarities with Alaska, including progressively stormier weather in the fall. We are beginning to see fresh snow on the hillsides, added to prior years' accumulations that have not melted. The sea-level squalls do a great job of washing the boat. Thursday 2/22/07 Caleta Lewaia, Chile 54 55.7 South 068 20.4 West Most of our time since rounding Cape Horn last Wednesday has been spent being patient. It took us just over a week, but we cleared out of Chile, into Argentina, fueled the boat, bought groceries and checked back into Chile. Okay, Gail got in some good shopping, too. We had to wait four days for a tanker to unload bunkers before we could fuel, at the same dock. We rigged up three large fenders, tied together, to make a single, mid pivot point to ride up and down a concrete pier, then strategically tied lines from the dock to hold us tight. It worked fine, but again, pulling up to a floating fuel dock seems like a basic facility. But, more often than not, it doesn't occur in the third world. The good news is that diesel is subsidized in Usuaia, up to the first 4,000 liters, which fit our needs, perfectly. The policy is for economic development of a frontier area. The effective cost was $2.03 per gallon. For this end of the world location, that is extremely good. The cruising sailboats at Ushuaia, took plastic jugs to the service station then transferred fuel into the boats. Others rolled drums down the dock and pumped diesel aboard. Ushuaia is a thriving town of over 70,000 population. We saw five or six ships arriving each day and several jet airline arrivals. It is a jump off for Cape Horn, Antarctic and Patagonia cruise ships. The government makes natural gas and liquid fuels available at a discount. It isn't apparent what else it does to support the economy, but it is probably a big factor. The people are well educated, upwardly mobile types, attracted by favorable earnings and reasonable prices. You can drive to Ushuaia from Buenos Aires, an important issue for freight and individuals. Puerto Williams, as a contrast, is a Naval Base with a modest population living astride. Earnings appear low, compared to Ushuaia, only 28 miles away. Housing is very modest and the population appears more Native, in Puerto Williams. Accommodation for yachts is minimal, even though the Armada insists on stopping those passing by, for paperwork and fees. Legitimate reason is hard to discern. Ice Dancer II is pointed north. After getting a new Zarpe from Puerto Williams and checking through the police, immigration, and the Armada, we are set to go. Winds on Canal Beagle have been hostile for the past week. We had great luck with calm conditions for our fueling. With that exception, we have seen 35 knots or better, every day, including our beat up Canal Beagle, today. It is fall, and the weather is turning. It is time for us to head north. ###