I add that many locking method suggestions are not universal for all locks
but the methods best to use vary with the unique design of the individual
and system requirements.  Poly balls are most flexible but storage is an
issue...inflatable AERE very good but very expensive, plastic covered hay
bales are not to be used and are prohibited in almost all locks (think of
clogging your raw water strainers when one breaks in the lock). Line length
is relative to the individual lock.  Some locks require longer lines(upper
Ohio River 75+' long required to reach up and back to the boat) be provided
to be looped around a fixed bollard on top of the lock wall and tended from
both ends of the boat at best, or one end or the other if solo.  Position
and number of lock ladders vary greatly as does the quietest place to be in
the lock. You may not be near a ladder or not have the luxury of having the
boat mid ships on a cable, line or pipe. The hanging lines provided in some
locks have weights and some times can be a tad short so be prepared. As to
turbulence, politely ask the Lock master for his/her suggestions where the
best spot is. Rig for both starboard and port side as the Lock Master/other
boats in the chamber may dictate where you must go in spite of any request
you make.  Some lock walls are so rough and badly in need of repair that
fenders can hung up in their holes so always have a good line cutting knife
handy for both handlers just in case. Even the floating bollards/pins can
hang up so be alert and physically tend the line. We have experienced 364
lockings in the past 5 years around the US and Canadian canals, Rivers,
seaways and most of the Western Rivers and that is about as generic the
advice I can offer from our experience.

May all your lockings be boring...

Joe
Currently docked on the Ohio River mile 797 heading to New Orleans.

M/V "Carolyn Ann" GH N-37
MTOA# 3813
AGLCA# 5485 (Platinum Looper)
http://carolynann-n37.blogspot.com/
Joseph.pica@gmail.com

Snip:"...  Got an apx 25 inch "Lock Hook" in one of the marina
stores.  Don't remember if the store was on the Hudson or on the
Canal.  This hook looks like what farmers call a "Hay Hook," only
longer and without the sharp point, and stainless.  It makes grabbing
the ladder rungs or lock pipe very easy
...Stay clear of long lines.  Have seen boaters get cross the lock
because the line got away.  A midship line will keep the bow in
because the stern is on the wall, and vice versa.  In fact,  I always
go for a midships first, all the time.  You may need to fill that curve of
the bow with fenders about the aft
third of the curve. ... If you need more fenders, buy some plastic
feed bags filled with hay.  With your boat handling, try to be at the front
of the lock, ..."

RE: Line length -
Loopers should know that after you come down the Miss. River and get into
the Ohio River, you have two locks - 53 and 52, You are REQUIRED to have two
50ft lines. As Joe points out farther up the lines must be longer.
You don't have to have a single 50ft line. You can put two together to make
a total of 50ft.
R.

-----Original Message-----
From: Great-Loop [mailto:great-loop-bounces@lists.trawlering.com] On Behalf
Of Joseph Pica
Sent: Tuesday, October 02, 2012 11:42 AM
To: 'Great Loupe'; great-loop@lists.trawlering.com
Subject: Re: GL: Locking Thru the Erie

. Line length is relative to the individual lock.  Some locks require longer
lines(upper Ohio River 75+' long required to reach up and back to the boat)
be provided to be looped around a fixed bollard on top of the lock wall and
tended from both ends of the boat at best, or one end or the other if solo.