I’m planning to repair rotten balsa core side decks on a 1972 Gulfstar 36 Mark 1.
Thinking about cutting and lifting FG deck, digging out balsa, filling with West Epoxy and replacing deck.
Any advice on filler material to use & procedures? If anyone has done a similar job, how much time And $$$$$$$$ should I allow?
Allan Leslie
Halifax, NS
Canada
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
I did that on a former trawler. Use Nida-Core for the filler material
set in place with thickened epoxy and then vacuum bagged in place! Not
terribly expensive (costs depend on how much Nida-Core and epoxy you
need), but it's a lot of physical work. Worth the effort in the long run
if you can do it yourself.
Apparently you don't have teak wood strips, just fiber glass decks. Teak
is relatively easy to remove with a little practice, if you do, however.
Read the articles at the Gudgeon Brothers site.
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On 6/11/2016 9:57 AM, Allan Leslie via Trawlers-and-Trawlering wrote:
I’m planning to repair rotten balsa core side decks on a 1972 Gulfstar 36 Mark 1.
Thinking about cutting and lifting FG deck, digging out balsa, filling with West Epoxy and replacing deck.
Any advice on filler material to use & procedures? If anyone has done a similar job, how much time And $$$$$$$$ should I allow?
I just finished a similar project on my 88 42’ Monk trawler.
I did the project over two winter/springs. Winter/spring 2014-15 was removing the lower deck teak and core and winter/spring 15-16 was removing the skin and seats from the upper deck, drying the teak core, re-glassing and paint both bright and non-skid.
The lower decks I too used Nida-Core and would use it again if the need arose.
Personally I prefer MAS epoxy as I appreciate the non-blushing feature which saves having to wash the blush off between coats or sanding, I think it might be slight less expensive than West System too.
For the lower decks I used about 7 gallons of epoxy and lots of fairing compound. I used three layers of 17 oz bi-axel cloth without the mat backer (i.e. not 1708), as I think with epoxy the mat would not add much in strength but would soak up much more epoxy.
The core was many small pieces of teak which were not uniform thickness, so after removing the core I put down a layer of glass and faired it then added the nida-core then two more layers of 17oz glass.
I used alexseal two part paint, roll and tipped and loved it.
I just finished the upper deck this week and think that I used just about 5 gallons of epoxy on that which required a tremendous amount of fairing. The upper deck core was in good shape so I just dried it and put two layers of 17oz on top. As these were winter projects I didn’t really track the time, but I suspect that the two week estimate could be a little aggressive.
Of course it depends on the size and scope of work and if you’re including paint, but the 2K figure could be about right, I may have spent just a little more on both projects.
Cheers,
ted
41’ Monk
Annapolis, MD
On Saturday, June 11, 2016 9:58 AM, Allan Leslie via Trawlers-and-Trawlering <trawlers@lists.trawlering.com> wrote:
I’m planning to repair rotten balsa core side decks on a 1972 Gulfstar 36 Mark 1.
Thinking about cutting and lifting FG deck, digging out balsa, filling with West Epoxy and replacing deck.
Any advice on filler material to use & procedures? If anyone has done a similar job, how much time And $$$$$$$$ should I allow?
Allan Leslie
Halifax, NS
Canada
Sent from Mail for Windows 10
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