Re: [volt-nuts] 3458A - To Modify or Not To Modify?
Chuck,
I have the pace too. You let it just suck op alcohol ? Where does that stay ? I never opened it, but i see nightmares of alcohol flowing through the electronics or fire/explosions because of the heat. I think you put the temp down but I must say, I do not know how low is possible. Mine did not lot its oomph yet but i think it is better not to wait untill that happens.
Fred PA4TIM
Op 7 nov. 2011 om 00:42 heeft Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com het volgende geschreven:
The answer to a Pace desoldering station that has lost its "oomph" is
to let it pump alcohol for a while. What happens is the rosin flux vapors
get into the pump and solidify. That tends to cause the spring loaded
graphite vanes in the pump to get sticky and lag in their ability to follow
the cylinder walls as the pump spins...you lose your pumping action.
Pumping the alcohol dissolves the rosin, and frees the graphite vanes, and
restores pumping efficiency.
-Chuck Harris
Bob Smither wrote:
J. L. Trantham wrote:
<snip>Solder suckers and desolder braid have been my tools. I'll have to also
look at the possibility of adding a 'vacuum' type desolder iron. I have a
real cheapie that uses only a bulb that I have never been particularly fond
of but perhaps I could hook it up to an external vacuum then trigger the
vacuum at the appropriate time.
I have a Pace vacuum desoldering station that has served for many years. Recently it
seems to have lost its "oomph" and I bought a Hakko 808 unit:
http://www.frys.com/product/2760813?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
A little pricey, but I have been very happy with the Hakko unit.
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Yes and no.
You let the pump pump alcohol or mineral spirits through the thing.
You can do it a couple of ways:
Method 1 is to close the front panel vents and with a couple of handpiece
hoses stuck in a jar of solvent just run the sucker. After 30 seconds to a
couple of minutes, discard the used solvent and repeat with clean.
Finally, just let it pump air for a couple of minutes. Do this in a
well-ventilated space.
Method 2 is the same, except you open the unit and disconnect the two
hoses from the barbed fitting on the panel and put those into the jar.
Only use alcohol or mineral spirits, NOT acetone, MEK or anything else.
The irons are off in either case.
Best,
-John
===================
Chuck,
I have the pace too. You let it just suck op alcohol ? Where does that
stay ? I never opened it, but i see nightmares of alcohol flowing through
the electronics or fire/explosions because of the heat. I think you put
the temp down but I must say, I do not know how low is possible. Mine did
not lot its oomph yet but i think it is better not to wait untill that
happens.
Fred PA4TIM
Op 7 nov. 2011 om 00:42 heeft Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com het
volgende geschreven:
The answer to a Pace desoldering station that has lost its "oomph" is
to let it pump alcohol for a while. What happens is the rosin flux
vapors
get into the pump and solidify. That tends to cause the spring loaded
graphite vanes in the pump to get sticky and lag in their ability to
follow
the cylinder walls as the pump spins...you lose your pumping action.
Pumping the alcohol dissolves the rosin, and frees the graphite vanes,
and
restores pumping efficiency.
-Chuck Harris
Bob Smither wrote:
J. L. Trantham wrote:
<snip>Solder suckers and desolder braid have been my tools. I'll have to
also
look at the possibility of adding a 'vacuum' type desolder iron. I
have a
real cheapie that uses only a bulb that I have never been particularly
fond
of but perhaps I could hook it up to an external vacuum then trigger
the
vacuum at the appropriate time.
I have a Pace vacuum desoldering station that has served for many
years. Recently it
seems to have lost its "oomph" and I bought a Hakko 808 unit:
http://www.frys.com/product/2760813?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG
A little pricey, but I have been very happy with the Hakko unit.
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The Pace stations I have used have both a vacuum and a pressure port.
Unplug the desoldering handle, and remove the hoses. Put both hoses into
a jar of ethyl alcohol. Run the pump and let it circulate for a while.
When the alcohol turns brown, dump it and run it some fresh alcohol.
When the alcohol stays clearish, you are done with the flushing.
Let the pump suck air for a while to dry it out and re-attach the desoldering
handle.
-Chuck Harris
Fred Schneider wrote:
Chuck,
I have the pace too. You let it just suck op alcohol ? Where does that stay ? I
never opened it, but i see nightmares of alcohol flowing through the electronics
or fire/explosions because of the heat. I think you put the temp down but I must
say, I do not know how low is possible. Mine did not lot its oomph yet but i think
it is better not to wait untill that happens.
Fred PA4TIM
Chuck Harris wrote:
The Pace stations I have used have both a vacuum and a pressure port.
Unplug the desoldering handle, and remove the hoses. Put both hoses into
a jar of ethyl alcohol. Run the pump and let it circulate for a while.
When the alcohol turns brown, dump it and run it some fresh alcohol.
When the alcohol stays clearish, you are done with the flushing.
Will try this soonest!
Thanks.
Bob Smither
From: "J. L. Trantham" jltran@att.net
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 11:13 PM
To: "'Discussion of precise voltage measurement'" volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] 3458A - To Modify or Not To Modify?
I agree.
However, if I am going 'all in' on damage to the board by placing sockets
for the EPROM and the DS1220Y, why not go 'all the way' and also do the
other DALLAS chips?
Interestingly, I got four HM62256LP-10 chips off theBay, inserted them in
U123-U126, and, miraculously, 'OPT 1,0' appeared. I noted that the
sockets
are plain 'AMP' closed frame sockets with just plain 'tin' (I think?)
connectors. I think I will use the same socket, but with Gold Plating,
for
the EPROM and the DALLAS chips as opposed to the Mill-Max.
Any thoughts?
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Poul-Henning Kamp
Sent: Sunday, November 06, 2011 4:20 PM
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] 3458A - To Modify or Not To Modify?
In message ABBBD83DE5B74F8885F0F686C7ACD9D3@cardiac5f772ce, "J. L.
Trantham"
writes:
Just to make sure I understand, since they are all DALLAS chips (two
DS1230Y-150 for 'program memory', and a DS1220Y-150 for 'cal memory'),
with
their internal batteries, they all will die in the future and that 'memory
of programs' function will be lost. So, therefore, it seems that they
will
need to be replaced from time to time (mine are 14 years old) and since I
am
going to need to remove them to replace them, why not place a socket?
Because in all likelyhood you will not care for the functionality
which the DS1230Y's deliver, so rather than risk another 56 pins
to unsolder, you can just leave them in, with no (relevant) loss
of functionality.
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by
incompetence.
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Joe
I have always understood that you should not mix gold and other dissimilar
metals when it comes to electrical connections. I think the devices
concerned have "tinned" pins. Am I right ?
I am very interested in this matter of the 3458A as I have one which informs
me that one of the DS1230Y has a "failed" battery. So having had some very
helpful advice from Poul-Henning, I currently run my 3458A "24/7" until I
establish what to do, and what the cost will be here in the UK to carry out
the up-grade!!
Roy
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Roy,
They are the same sockets that are used for the Opt 001 memory chips except
they have a gold plating at the contact points where the chip plugs in. I
suspect that they are the same sockets used for the six EPROM variant of the
A5 board. I have the single EPROM variant. The data sheet is here:
http://www.te.com/catalog/pn/en/1825108-3
I like the idea of trying to make it look like it was original. The gold
plating is an effort to avoid the '5370B' issue that Didier mentioned. If I
get 30 years out of it, I'll be more than satisfied.
My only uncertainty is whether or not the 'cal' chip survived the effort.
The other two were full of data when I archived them. The 'cal' chip was
only sparsely populated and no information that looked useful. I'll have to
wait on the new sockets to arrive to find out.
Good luck on your effort.
Joe
-----Original Message-----
From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On
Behalf Of Roy Phillips
Sent: Monday, November 07, 2011 5:59 AM
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] 3458A - To Modify or Not To Modify?
Joe
I have always understood that you should not mix gold and other dissimilar
metals when it comes to electrical connections. I think the devices
concerned have "tinned" pins. Am I right ?
I am very interested in this matter of the 3458A as I have one which informs
me that one of the DS1230Y has a "failed" battery. So having had some very
helpful advice from Poul-Henning, I currently run my 3458A "24/7" until I
establish what to do, and what the cost will be here in the UK to carry out
the up-grade!!
Roy
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In message 5483845756DC4500AE43F54709D0ED2C@S0028384766, "J. L. Trantham" wri
tes:
me that one of the DS1230Y has a "failed" battery. So having had some very
helpful advice from Poul-Henning, I currently run my 3458A "24/7" until I
establish what to do, and what the cost will be here in the UK to carry out
the up-grade!!
Treat that as a warning you can ignore, but do realize that it probably
means that the DS1220 is right behind...
I would backup up the CALRAM over HPIB if at all possible, and then
replace at least the DS1220.
--
Poul-Henning Kamp | UNIX since Zilog Zeus 3.20
phk@FreeBSD.ORG | TCP/IP since RFC 956
FreeBSD committer | BSD since 4.3-tahoe
Never attribute to malice what can adequately be explained by incompetence.