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TWL: Re: Fiberglass, Steel, and Aluminum Choices

CM
C. Marin Faure
Thu, Apr 17, 2003 6:30 AM

Subject: TWL: Fiberglass, Steel, and Aluminum Choices
To: trawler-world-list@lists.samurai.com
Message-ID: 124.20cf6fce.2bceba71@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Over the years, I've also noticed that used steel boats, such as trawlers and

motorsailers in the 40 to 55 ft range or so, most  often seem like good buys
relative to similar sized fiberglass boats of similar age.

While I know very little about the relative merits of hull types, I have
learned recently that steel hulls will go away over time.  I've been
working on a project for the captain of a 120' Rhodes-designed,
steel-hulled yacht that was built by Abeking & Rassmussen in 1966.  The
hull is getting so thin in places that during a recent haulout, additional
plating had to be welded to the the keel and other spots on the hull.  The
captain estimates that in three years, at least $3 million will have to be
spent reskinning the hull or it will no longer be considered seaworthy.
This is not an abused boat, and she has received topnotch care all her
life.  All I have been told is that "corrosion" gradually eats away at
steel hulls over time, at least when they're in saltwater.  All I can
conclude from this is that if buying a steel-hulled boat, make sure the
hull is tested for soundness and plating thickness.  You wouldn't want to
buy a boat with a hull that will start pinholing on you as soon as your
check clears....


C. Marin Faure
GB36-403 "La Perouse"
Bellingham, WA

Subject: TWL: Fiberglass, Steel, and Aluminum Choices To: trawler-world-list@lists.samurai.com Message-ID: <124.20cf6fce.2bceba71@aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" >Over the years, I've also noticed that used steel boats, such as trawlers and motorsailers in the 40 to 55 ft range or so, most often seem like good buys relative to similar sized fiberglass boats of similar age. While I know very little about the relative merits of hull types, I have learned recently that steel hulls will go away over time. I've been working on a project for the captain of a 120' Rhodes-designed, steel-hulled yacht that was built by Abeking & Rassmussen in 1966. The hull is getting so thin in places that during a recent haulout, additional plating had to be welded to the the keel and other spots on the hull. The captain estimates that in three years, at least $3 million will have to be spent reskinning the hull or it will no longer be considered seaworthy. This is not an abused boat, and she has received topnotch care all her life. All I have been told is that "corrosion" gradually eats away at steel hulls over time, at least when they're in saltwater. All I can conclude from this is that if buying a steel-hulled boat, make sure the hull is tested for soundness and plating thickness. You wouldn't want to buy a boat with a hull that will start pinholing on you as soon as your check clears.... _______________ C. Marin Faure GB36-403 "La Perouse" Bellingham, WA
AH
Alex Hirsekorn
Thu, Apr 17, 2003 6:02 PM

----- Original Message -----
From: "C. Marin Faure" cmfaure@earthlink.net
[snip]

120' Rhodes-designed,
steel-hulled yacht that was built by Abeking & Rassmussen in 1966.  The
hull is getting so thin in places that during a recent haulout, additional
plating had to be welded to the the keel and other spots on the hull.

[snip]

All I have been told is that "corrosion" gradually eats away at
steel hulls over time, at least when they're in saltwater.  All I can
conclude from this is that if buying a steel-hulled boat, make sure the
hull is tested for soundness and plating thickness.

[snip]

Howdy,

A couple of points about this:

First, the boat mentioned will be 40 years old by the time it needs re-plating. That seems
to compare pretty well to the expected life spans of boats made from other materials.

Second, while it should go without stating that the coating systems (they don't seem to
call it "paint" anymore) available today are far superior to those used in 1966, it's
perhaps less obvious that there is also much better understanding of the techniques needed
for the application of these systems.

Third, it's important to test for soundness regardless of hull material. With Fe or Al you
look for corrosion; with wood you look for rot and fastener deterioration, with FRP you
look for blisters or other signs of water intrusion, with ferrocement you look for... well
I don't know what but I'm sure there's something.

Since I'm no expert on this (far from it) I just spent some time reading the forum
discussions at the Metal Boat Society web site http://www.metalboatsociety.com/phpBB2/ .
What TWL is to trawlers the MBS forum is to their subject - They've got some very
knowledgeable and experienced folks over there! I was able to find references to steel
boats that have gone 10 to 15 years without rust or repainting (aside from chip repair and
bottom paint).

Since this thread started with a question about new construction I think that it's valid
to say that rust and corrosion issues with steel boats no longer need to be the concern
they once were.

Oxidationally yours,

Alex

----- Original Message ----- From: "C. Marin Faure" <cmfaure@earthlink.net> [snip] > 120' Rhodes-designed, > steel-hulled yacht that was built by Abeking & Rassmussen in 1966. The > hull is getting so thin in places that during a recent haulout, additional > plating had to be welded to the the keel and other spots on the hull. [snip] > All I have been told is that "corrosion" gradually eats away at > steel hulls over time, at least when they're in saltwater. All I can > conclude from this is that if buying a steel-hulled boat, make sure the > hull is tested for soundness and plating thickness. [snip] Howdy, A couple of points about this: First, the boat mentioned will be 40 years old by the time it needs re-plating. That seems to compare pretty well to the expected life spans of boats made from other materials. Second, while it should go without stating that the coating systems (they don't seem to call it "paint" anymore) available today are far superior to those used in 1966, it's perhaps less obvious that there is also much better understanding of the techniques needed for the application of these systems. Third, it's important to test for soundness regardless of hull material. With Fe or Al you look for corrosion; with wood you look for rot and fastener deterioration, with FRP you look for blisters or other signs of water intrusion, with ferrocement you look for... well I don't know what but I'm sure there's something. Since I'm no expert on this (far from it) I just spent some time reading the forum discussions at the Metal Boat Society web site http://www.metalboatsociety.com/phpBB2/ . What TWL is to trawlers the MBS forum is to their subject - They've got some very knowledgeable and experienced folks over there! I was able to find references to steel boats that have gone 10 to 15 years without rust or repainting (aside from chip repair and bottom paint). Since this thread started with a question about new construction I think that it's valid to say that rust and corrosion issues with steel boats no longer need to be the concern they once were. Oxidationally yours, Alex
GW
Glenn Williams
Thu, Apr 17, 2003 10:07 PM

C. Marin Faure said:
All I have been told is that "corrosion" gradually eats away at

steel hulls over time, at least when they're in saltwater.  All I can
conclude from this is that if buying a steel-hulled boat, make sure the
hull is tested for soundness and plating thickness.  You wouldn't want to
buy a boat with a hull that will start pinholing on you as soon as your
check clears....

As one who owned a rather dodgy steel boat on one occasion, I understand
your wariness.
However in Amsterdam a few years ago, I was admiring a steel motor cruiser,
about 35 ft long, when invited for a closer look by the owner.
I guessed that the boat was two or three years old. in fact he showed me the
builders plate which showed that the boat was in fact twentyfour years old!
I understand that this is quite common in Holland. They have a strong
tradition of building steel boats really well.
I dont see how a steel boat can deterioate if the integrity of the surface
is properly maintained and, of course, if the appropriate measures to combat
electrolysis are also maintained.

Cheers
Glenn Williams
"Stirling"
Port Phillip, Australia.

C. Marin Faure said: All I have been told is that "corrosion" gradually eats away at > steel hulls over time, at least when they're in saltwater. All I can > conclude from this is that if buying a steel-hulled boat, make sure the > hull is tested for soundness and plating thickness. You wouldn't want to > buy a boat with a hull that will start pinholing on you as soon as your > check clears.... As one who owned a rather dodgy steel boat on one occasion, I understand your wariness. However in Amsterdam a few years ago, I was admiring a steel motor cruiser, about 35 ft long, when invited for a closer look by the owner. I guessed that the boat was two or three years old. in fact he showed me the builders plate which showed that the boat was in fact twentyfour years old! I understand that this is quite common in Holland. They have a strong tradition of building steel boats really well. I dont see how a steel boat can deterioate if the integrity of the surface is properly maintained and, of course, if the appropriate measures to combat electrolysis are also maintained. Cheers Glenn Williams "Stirling" Port Phillip, Australia.