I did not ask the person who sent this to me if I had permission to file.
It is on their blog www.mvstarr.com
The last paragraph would seem that the authors would share this with anyone
if it could prevent one recurrence.
So, if the listmeister says I need permission, I will try but I do not know
the authors.
By the grace of god………
Lee
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
For months, I had been imagining the end of our circumnavigation. We would
finally pass by the Fuca Pillar make our way into Neah Bay and have a good
two days rest, or three, and get the boat all cleaned up. Our daughter
wanted to meet us at the visitor’s dock in Squalicum Harbor, Bellingham so
she asked that we not get in until Sunday, June 24, as she lived in
Portland, Oregon and needed to have the time off from work to be there
waiting for us. We would drive up to the dock with all our courtesy flags
from over 50 countries flying on the staysail halyard, banners from various
rallies and events we had participated in hanging on the lifelines and
personal burgees from different organizations raised up the signal
halyards. I hoped to make a banner showing a globe with our
circumnavigation route over the 17 years. There would be our daughters on
the dock and maybe a few interested friends waving us in and then a
celebration with champagne and M&Ms, a tradition we started back in 1991 in
Costa Rica. Then we would toast our life’s dream accomplished and rest on
our laurels a bit before entering the next phase of our lives. Whatever
that was, it would still certainly include boats.
A completely different scenario took over. We had left Oahu, Hawaii on May
26, 2018. After weeks of watching the “high” develop in the north Pacific,
we felt we could safely leave now and have reasonable weather for the 21-27
day trip to Bellingham, Washington. We sailed just west of the high and had
somewhat rough conditions for several days, but that was to be expected.
Uncomfortable, not dangerous for us. When we got to latitude 38 degrees
north we were able to make easting in the westerly winds blowing on the top
of the high. So far so good, all as planned, although still kind of rough
for the most part with confused seas much of the time.
Finally, at around 137 degrees longitude we were making a nice northeast
course, and according to the chart plotter, heading straight for Cape
Flattery. Kelaerin was making good an average of over 5 knots through the
whole trip. The horse could smell the barn, so to speak, and we were
becoming excited now that this trip would be over soon.
On the evening of June 15, Jim downloaded a grib file and came up to the
cockpit, discouraged. For the previous week, we saw that about this time we
should be seeing light to variable winds from the southwest. We could
expect to have to raise the spinnaker for the light winds or motor part of
the way.
But suddenly the reports were different. The wind was to be 21 to 26 knots
from the north/northwest so it would still be a bumpy ride to the very end.
The conditions, although uncomfortable, were nothing that should stop us
from making progress.
On June 16, the winds slowly increased throughout the day. As we entered
the night hours, we had winds well into the mid-30’s and seas were
building. Still, Kelaerin was sailing fine, however, we were losing our
direct line to Cape Flattery and making easting towards the Columbia River.
The seas continued to build to over 4 meters, then 5 and now we were
heading directly south with the waves on our stern, paralleling the coast,
and sailing away from our destination. Eventually we were sailing bare
poles at almost 5 knots down steep waves, the largest waves I had ever seen
while cruising. I estimated they were 30 feet. We decided to keep one hour
watches. I went to bed around 2:30 for a quick nap and to warm up under the
covers.
I awoke around 3:30 to first a hard hit by a wave, so hard it literally
felt as though we had been hit by a train while sitting on the tracks. I
was suddenly on the ceiling and tons of water came in through the
companionway hatch. The noise inside the boat was deafening. I managed with
some difficulty to swing out of the berth and when I put my feet on the
floor I was standing in water up to my ankles. The water was sloshing
violently back and forth and from bow to stern. I could barely comprehend
what I saw. The aft cabin companionway ladder was across the cabin and
bashed into the louvred door of the hanging locker. One of the two scuba
tanks was out of their snap holders behind the ladder and sitting in the
hanging locker. Jim called me from the cockpit and I answered him, telling
him I couldn’t get out of the aft cabin. (If I had needed to escape, it
would have to be through the deck hatch over the berth.) I was able to move
the ladder and the scuba tank from the doorway into the pass through.
Everything that was on the quarter berth was now on the floor. Stuff had
been piled there and secured for years for passages, but now was a heap on
the cabin sole. But the second scuba tank was now in that bunk. We had a
bag of laundry sitting in the shop that was behind the engine and all the
clothes were sloshing around the cables and chains of the steering. The
heavy, sliding doors to the engine room were bashed into the pass through.
I had some difficulty getting those out of the way and navigating myself
through the mess and now into the main cabin. The sight was so horrifying
and complex that I could barely take it in. Almost every locker door was
open or broken and the lockers were bare, with the contents sloshing back
and forth on the cabin sole. The bilge hatches were gone – they weren’t
always the easiest to get up with their pull rings -- and the water tanks
exposed to view. Locker lids either flat or on the cabin sides were askew
and shelves were broken. It just couldn’t be possible that my beautiful
boat, the one we had for 27 years and was so lovingly maintained, could
look like this.
I got to the main cabin companionway and saw Jim at the wheel. He had
blood covering half of his face. He looked shocked but was steering us down
a huge wave. I had a hard time taking this view in as well. I was looking
at clear sky where once there had been a full cockpit enclosure. I asked,
“Where is the dodger?” and Jim just said, “It’s gone.” He asked me to get
on the VHF and put out a MAYDAY call. I felt strange doing this, even
hesitated for a few seconds, as I never pictured us asking for help. We
never had since our first time together out in sailboats back in 1978. We
got no answer. He then asked if I could take the wheel, which I did while
he went down below to check the damage and make sure we weren’t taking on
water. While behind the wheel I had to keep the stern to the waves. I
concentrated on steering and at some point as I looked forward I could see
that the dinghy was gone. The handrails it had been tied to were broken,
snapped like twigs. Then I realized something else was missing….the
liferaft. I leaned over to see if it had maybe been caught in between the
cabin top and the lifelines or blanketed by the main sail but it was not
there. It had been tied to a stainless steel luggage rack that we had
constructed and bolted to the cabin top just forward of the dodger. The
teak coaming that ran across the cabin top was broken off with a part of it
in the cabin. It was probably that which had hit Jim and gashed him above
his eye. The mainsail had been spilled out of the stack pack and was
hanging down to the deck and possibly some of it over the lifelines and I
could see that it was shredded in places. All these things had compiled in
my mind and unbelievably I was ledgering the costs of the damage and what
it would take to fix all of this. Never had I thought that at the end of
our voyage we would have to rebuild our boat.
Jim appeared at the companionway and said that the SSB radio was dead. The
two VHF radios were on but since no one answered our MAYDAYS we weren’t
positive they were sending out our messages.
He was pretty sure, he said, that we weren’t taking on any more water. It
had been almost two hours since the wave had tossed us now and we were both
showing signs of hypothermia. Jim said my lips were turning blue and the
blood caked on his face looked ghastly. I was doing o.k. with steering but
every once in a while a bigger wave broke near me and we would begin to
broach. I had to hold on to the wheel with everything I had to keep it
stern to. I screamed now and then. I know this because my voice was getting
hoarse.
We were in very dangerous shape now, with no communications and no way to
get a weather report. No one was answering our MAYDAY calls. The boat was
seriously damaged and we had tons of water going back and forth in the
cabin. Things that had been in the aft cabin, including our spare Aries
windvane which was tied down beneath the aft cabin berth, had been
propelled incredibly through the walkthrough and into the main cabin and
had managed somehow not to hit me when I was still in the bunk. I wondered
why I saw the carton of milk on the cabin sole, the contents of our
refrigerator and freezer scattered about the boat. The refrigerator lid was
heavy with a pull ring and it took a little doing to get it up in normal
conditions. Jim assessed that we had been turned upside down. When the wave
hit, he was wearing his SoSpenders but not tethered. Jim has great
reflexes, thankfully, and said he had to hold on to the steering pedestal
with all his might or he would have gone over. In retrospect we don’t think
the tether would have helped seeing as how so many other things had been
ripped off the boat. He described the enclosure as shredding and blowing
off like newspaper in the wind. Later inspection showed that the pedestal
had broken at the base. It was lucky we had steering at all at this point.
When he lifted the chart table lid there was nothing in it now, except a
lone can of tuna fish. Nothing was dry, the stove was broken and the water
tanks were probably fouled through the vents. The engine itself may have
worked but the starter motor was surely dead as it was now underwater. The
engine wouldn’t have helped anyway, not unless we could get closer to shore
and now we were getting farther away every minute.
We had 4 electric bilge pumps, one was a large capacity pump. All 4
clogged with debris. The debris was from all the soft back books we had on
board. The cheaper paper turned to mush with all the sloshing and went
right through the screens into the pumps. There was no way we could operate
the manual pump in these conditions and to get that much water out. While
Jim was describing this to me, I kept looking over to where the liferaft
had been. Then the reality of our situation seemed to be clear to both of
us. I said, “I think we should activate the EPIRB” and he agreed. We had a
406 Mhz EPIRB and he went to get it out of its holder and brought it up to
our binocular box on the cabin (the binoculars were gone) and set it in
there and and pushed the button.
We couldn’t be sure that anyone would be able to get to us or hear us. We
had the EPIRB properly registered and overhauled with new batteries every
few years as required. Originally we had our daughters on the contact list,
but we got frustrated with trying to get them at times. It could be days
before we ever heard back and that could happen while we were in distress.
Jim had asked old buddies of his if they would be contacts. Ed was a HAM
radio operator and Richard was a tugboat captain. Both of these guys were
in almost daily contact with Jim through winlink and Jim would report our
position to them and the sea conditions. We had set off the EPIRB around
0538. The coast guard immediately contacted Ed and Richard to verify that
we were indeed in trouble and they reported back our position the evening
before, our course, our destination and that we had reported rough
conditions. Then they went into action.
Almost 4 hours later, as I was at the wheel, I heard the Coast Guard call
us on the old VHF radio in the aft cabin. I reached in to answer, “This is
Kelaerin”, and immediately felt we just might survive this ordeal after
all. They were coming from the Warrenton, Oregon base. They said they were
20 minutes away from us. I told them that incredibly the chart plotter was
still functioning and I could give them our exact position, which I did.
They informed me that when they arrived they would have only a few minutes
with us and we needed to make the decision: they could give us a dewatering
pump and we would be on our own or they could extract us from the vessel. I
looked at Jim and asked, “which?” and he answered, “the dewatering pump”.
Still at this point, I did not envision us leaving Kelaerin. The pilot
radioed back that we had to think about that and have our possessions we
wanted to take with us ready to go. Jim got back on the wheel for awhile
while I changed clothes (a few things were still dry) and I went about the
boat collecting hard drives, cameras, etc. This was much harder than I had
anticipated. I could not get over all the stuff floating around inside the
boat to get to the box where our passports and cash were. Jim’s wallet had
been in the chart table and was just gone. My backpack which held my wallet
was nowhere to be seen. Jim’s good Nikon camera was in a locker up forward
with all kinds of stuff blocking the way. I got the hard drives, the go pro
camera and the little Nikon Coolpix I used. Jim’s new LG phone was gone but
mine had survived. I had a small dry bag and stuffed everything I could in
there. Jim had gone up to get the cash but when he went into the cockpit he
pulled it out of his pocket and the cash began flying in the wind out of
his hands. I stuffed what was left into a small cooler. Then I went back to
steering while Jim continued to try and get water out of the boat.
The Coast Guard continued to call me asking me to count down so their RDF
could locate us. For a while I wondered if they would find us in time, but
eventually I saw them coming. They informed me that they would drop a
swimmer in so I told them we would lower the stern ladder and Jim would
stream a heavy line so the swimmer could grab it. I informed them that I
was going bare poles at 4.6 knots at that time and there would be no way
whatsoever I could turn around. I’m sure they already knew that. I asked if
they would drop the swimmer on the port side of the boat as the mainsail
was blocking my view off the starboard side. The helicopter dropped low, on
the starboard side, and the swimmer jumped in but I could not see any of
this, only the blades as they whipped around near me. I was not aware when
he came aboard. I kept looking for him not realizing he had already boarded
and was discussing the situation with Jim at the stern. I was waiting for
the pump and then looked over to see the Coast Guard swimmer coming towards
the cockpit and informing me that we were getting off the boat. “No,” I
said. “We are staying on the boat, we just need the pump.” Then Jim was
behind him and said, “Joy, we are getting off.” I was incredulous. It was
beyond comprehension that we would ever leave the boat. I still felt that,
although, we were in serious trouble here, that we could save Kelaerin. How
could we possibly leave her, after nearly 70,000 miles of cruising and 27
years together with only 150 miles to go? Jim had always said he wouldn’t
abandon the boat unless he had to step up into a liferaft. So when he
confirmed the Coast Guardsman’s declaration, with all his experience at
sea, I knew finally that this battle was over. The sea had won.
Then everything went at hyperspeed. The Coast Guard swimmer said I had
just a minute to go and gather my things. This is when good sense left and
stupid crazy set in. Since we had not planned to leave the boat, I was not
prepared well at all. I ran down below, threw out the computer, my “pink
book” with all our personal and important info in it, my dry bag, and the
red cooler into the cockpit. The CG had taken over the wheel and he kept
telling me to be quick, “Go, go, go” he said. I ran back to the aft cabin
(this was when nonsense set in for a bit) to retrieve some jewelry. Later I
couldn’t believe I had done that as it had taken precious time when I could
have better secured the more important items. I threw out my forearm crutch
which I needed to walk and he was now telling me there was no more time and
I had to get back to the stern of the boat. I asked, “what about my
computer and the red cooler?” and he said he would get it and urged me
back. Jim grabbed the red cooler and threw it towards the stern and it
lodged out of my reach. I again said, “I need my computer and the red
cooler” and the CG swimmer said, again it was OK. He told us to inflate our
sospenders and jump. What!!!!! Of course this was the only thing to do, but
I hesitated for a second and looked at the giant wave coming at us and
said, “I’m not jumping in that” and he said GO NOW, Jim said JUMP and I was
in the water. Jim later said he had never seen me swimming so fast. I just
wanted to get to that basket being lowered before a wave tumbled me under
and I might possibly never come back up. Getting into the basket was easy,
I just rolled in and moments later I was in the helicopter. The basket
lowered again for Jim and he was helped out into the helicopter. Then the
swimmer came up and I was hoping that I would see the computer and the red
cooler but, of course, it wasn’t there. I knew it wouldn’t be there. The
doors were closed and we started to fly away. I had to restrain myself from
shouting that I wanted to go back. The hardest moment of both Jim’s and my
lives were when we could see Kelaerin through the window and we both
realized she was probably lost forever, that somehow we had failed her when
she had been so good to us for so many years.
The ride back was over an hour long. The pilots made conversation with us
through miked up helmets they provided. We all introduced ourselves. I was
just amazed at how professional and highly trained these guys were. The
swimmer had to grab the line behind the boat and pull himself into the
ladder as we were going nearly 5 knots, which he did in just seconds. His
job was to get us off the boat in short order once Jim had made the
decision to leave Kelaerin. He was not cruel or impersonal when ordering me
to get going. All through that I realized he had a job to do and could not
brook any nonsense from me. He was completely in charge and trained to
handle this situation. They must come up against some serious stubbornness
when trying to get people off boats and they know how to handle it.
When we were about to land Jim heard the pilot tell ground control that
they were landing off base at an alternate site near Astoria as they were
down to one minute of fuel. ONE MINUTE!!! They had been at the far
extension of their range when they had reached us 180 miles out to sea and
no time to spare. When we disembarked the copter, I hugged all four
Coasties, Jim shook their hands. The pilots came around with smiles on
their faces….a job well done, a successful rescue. Then they told me that I
was pretty cool on the radio and it helped them a lot. Thank God, I did
something right. The EMTs were waiting for us and now I realized we were
without any ID whatsoever, we were soaking wet and shivering, no shoes for
me and I didn’t have my forearm crutch so I had to be supported across the
tarmac to the ambulance.
My small dry bag which held my phone and the camera filled with water as I
swam to the basket. Incredibly the phone still worked and I was able to
call our girls. Our daughter, Kelly, lived in Portland so she dropped
everything and came to Astoria to pick us up. Our oldest daughter, Erin,
was visiting friends in Missoula and immediately booked a flight to
Portland. They took excellent care of us, even buying us some clothes and
Erin helped us get back online by buying a computer for us until our credit
cards came within a couple of days.
I share this story in the hopes it helps anyone else for preparation or
even the realization that just anything can happen during a passage. Our
biggest mistake that we could have avoided was not putting all our
important personal items in a ditch bag. The lifesaving ditch bag had been
on a shelf with the handle facing outwards so that we could grab it, but it
was of no use if we had to jump in the ocean from a sinking boat and no
liferaft. In any case, it wasn’t there after we flipped over and I have no
idea as to where it went. I’ll be kicking myself forever for not having the
IDs, passports, cash, hard drives and even the little bits of jewelry in a
bag ready to go. As for everything else, it is an unimaginable loss. My
pictures that we’ve taken over the years were on a hard drive. I had
thought about putting them up on the cloud, but didn’t. All our logs were
on hard drives, print and computers, but they could not be retrieved in
time. I had my collection of courtesy flags and small coins, that were of
no value to anyone else but me, in a bag under a setee seat. My assortment
of boat cards from the many friends we have made while cruising is gone. We
will have to rely on memory now for most of the last 17 years of cruising
and that, at 70, is going to be quite a challenge. I’ll have to get on it
soon.