Empathy List Archives

GH

George Hechtman

Tue, Mar 4, 2014 12:42 PM

Michael, saw this on the Great Loop Digest. It sounds like you do not have the manuals and schematics for your boats including the graving plan. These are available from Hatteras if you give them your hull number; I think a complete set is about $250. Many big Hatts were designed to get as low as 18'9" to the top of the flying bridge windshield rail. Advise you measure your specific boat as well as get validation from these documents.

Another two great, invaluable resources are Sam's Marine, who Hatteras spun off as their parts department, give them your hull number and they have a database, for how your boat was built and with what; one huge advantage of buying an older Hatteras is that you virtually never find yourself trying to figure out how to replace something and with what, unless it was a modification by a PO. The other resource is the Hatteras Owner's Forum, sponsored my Sam's , with an active membership of people who own almost every flavor of vintage Hatts.

http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/index.php

You don't say what year your boat is, and whether the cockpit is OEM or an aftermarket add on, which was not uncommon. At least one 70' Hatt had made the loop, but I believe it was of newer vintage, late 90's maybe. A little web searching may turn up their blog.

George
1981Hatteras 56MY.

Michael, saw this on the Great Loop Digest. It sounds like you do not have the manuals and schematics for your boats including the graving plan. These are available from Hatteras if you give them your hull number; I think a complete set is about $250. Many big Hatts were designed to get as low as 18'9" to the top of the flying bridge windshield rail. Advise you measure your specific boat as well as get validation from these documents. Another two great, invaluable resources are Sam's Marine, who Hatteras spun off as their parts department, give them your hull number and they have a database, for how your boat was built and with what; one huge advantage of buying an older Hatteras is that you virtually never find yourself trying to figure out how to replace something and with what, unless it was a modification by a PO. The other resource is the Hatteras Owner's Forum, sponsored my Sam's , with an active membership of people who own almost every flavor of vintage Hatts. http://www.samsmarine.com/forums/index.php You don't say what year your boat is, and whether the cockpit is OEM or an aftermarket add on, which was not uncommon. At least one 70' Hatt had made the loop, but I believe it was of newer vintage, late 90's maybe. A little web searching may turn up their blog. George 1981Hatteras 56MY.

R

Rich

Tue, Mar 4, 2014 3:51 PM

George makes a fine point as excerpted below, but when it come to something
as critical as this measurement, I tend to mistrust manuals. I have the
plans for my boat, which is the same model but a few yeas older than my
brother's. Before we left headed south last year, we got out a measuring
tape, a carpenter's level, and a boathook. It was a simple task to use the
boathook to measure from the tip of the raised mastheads to the decks
directly below and then out over the side using a long stick and the level
to get the distance to the water. The boats measured about a foot
different. I performed the same measurement with the mast down and got
height of the mast down at 45 degrees (normal lowered position) as well as
the height above WL for the bimini which is very close to the same height as
the lowered mast.

With a measurement of 24.5 feet above WL for my mast up with full tanks I
was able to pass with confidence under the center of a bridge in Clearwater
measuring 25 feet on the tide board with my mast raised - I did end up with
a slight rearward cant in the lightning rod which sits atop the mast. :)
My brother who was astern with his mast also in the raised position thus had
no hesitation because I was the "pole car."

Rich Gano
Calypso (1972 Grand Banks 42)
Panama City, FL

Michael, saw this on the Great Loop Digest. It sounds like you do not have

the

manuals and schematics for your boats including the graving plan. These

are

available from Hatteras if you give them your hull number; I think a

complete set is

about $250. Many big Hatts were designed to get as low as 18'9" to the top

of the

flying bridge windshield rail. Advise you measure your specific boat as

well as get

validation from these documents.

George makes a fine point as excerpted below, but when it come to something as critical as this measurement, I tend to mistrust manuals. I have the plans for my boat, which is the same model but a few yeas older than my brother's. Before we left headed south last year, we got out a measuring tape, a carpenter's level, and a boathook. It was a simple task to use the boathook to measure from the tip of the raised mastheads to the decks directly below and then out over the side using a long stick and the level to get the distance to the water. The boats measured about a foot different. I performed the same measurement with the mast down and got height of the mast down at 45 degrees (normal lowered position) as well as the height above WL for the bimini which is very close to the same height as the lowered mast. With a measurement of 24.5 feet above WL for my mast up with full tanks I was able to pass with confidence under the center of a bridge in Clearwater measuring 25 feet on the tide board with my mast raised - I did end up with a slight rearward cant in the lightning rod which sits atop the mast. :) My brother who was astern with his mast also in the raised position thus had no hesitation because I was the "pole car." Rich Gano Calypso (1972 Grand Banks 42) Panama City, FL > > Michael, saw this on the Great Loop Digest. It sounds like you do not have the > manuals and schematics for your boats including the graving plan. These are > available from Hatteras if you give them your hull number; I think a complete set is > about $250. Many big Hatts were designed to get as low as 18'9" to the top of the > flying bridge windshield rail. Advise you measure your specific boat as well as get > validation from these documents. >

RY

Ralph Yost

Tue, Mar 4, 2014 4:03 PM

I measured my boat the exact same way Rich Gano describes. I was within 1-2
inches correct as was proven when we traveled up the Champlain Canal though
the lowest bridge above Mechanicsville. The lockmaster who controls the pool
can tell you precisely what the clearance is.
I also created a drawing of my boat with these measured clearances and would
be happy to share it with anyone who emails me off list to ask for it. It
would serve as an example of how to make the same drawing for your own boat.
R.

-----Original Message-----
From: Great-Loop [mailto:great-loop-bounces@lists.trawlering.com] On Behalf
Of Rich
Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2014 10:51 AM
To: 'George Hechtman'; jmlejets@gmail.com
Cc: great-loop@lists.trawlering.com
Subject: Re: GL: Great Loop Limits: Hatteras 70CPMY and the loop.

George makes a fine point as excerpted below, but when it come to something
as critical as this measurement, I tend to mistrust manuals. I have the
plans for my boat, which is the same model but a few yeas older than my
brother's. Before we left headed south last year, we got out a measuring
tape, a carpenter's level, and a boathook. It was a simple task to use the
boathook to measure from the tip of the raised mastheads to the decks
directly below and then out over the side using a long stick and the level
to get the distance to the water. The boats measured about a foot
different. I performed the same measurement with the mast down and got
height of the mast down at 45 degrees (normal lowered position) as well as
the height above WL for the bimini which is very close to the same height as
the lowered mast.

With a measurement of 24.5 feet above WL for my mast up with full tanks I
was able to pass with confidence under the center of a bridge in Clearwater
measuring 25 feet on the tide board with my mast raised - I did end up with
a slight rearward cant in the lightning rod which sits atop the mast. :)
My brother who was astern with his mast also in the raised position thus had
no hesitation because I was the "pole car."

Rich Gano
Calypso (1972 Grand Banks 42)
Panama City, FL

I measured my boat the exact same way Rich Gano describes. I was within 1-2 inches correct as was proven when we traveled up the Champlain Canal though the lowest bridge above Mechanicsville. The lockmaster who controls the pool can tell you precisely what the clearance is. I also created a drawing of my boat with these measured clearances and would be happy to share it with anyone who emails me off list to ask for it. It would serve as an example of how to make the same drawing for your own boat. R. -----Original Message----- From: Great-Loop [mailto:great-loop-bounces@lists.trawlering.com] On Behalf Of Rich Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2014 10:51 AM To: 'George Hechtman'; jmlejets@gmail.com Cc: great-loop@lists.trawlering.com Subject: Re: GL: Great Loop Limits: Hatteras 70CPMY and the loop. George makes a fine point as excerpted below, but when it come to something as critical as this measurement, I tend to mistrust manuals. I have the plans for my boat, which is the same model but a few yeas older than my brother's. Before we left headed south last year, we got out a measuring tape, a carpenter's level, and a boathook. It was a simple task to use the boathook to measure from the tip of the raised mastheads to the decks directly below and then out over the side using a long stick and the level to get the distance to the water. The boats measured about a foot different. I performed the same measurement with the mast down and got height of the mast down at 45 degrees (normal lowered position) as well as the height above WL for the bimini which is very close to the same height as the lowered mast. With a measurement of 24.5 feet above WL for my mast up with full tanks I was able to pass with confidence under the center of a bridge in Clearwater measuring 25 feet on the tide board with my mast raised - I did end up with a slight rearward cant in the lightning rod which sits atop the mast. :) My brother who was astern with his mast also in the raised position thus had no hesitation because I was the "pole car." Rich Gano Calypso (1972 Grand Banks 42) Panama City, FL