Crimping large wires.
I am changing the inverter bypass to allow rapid
swap-out of the inverter. (The old bypass required
turning off all A/C electricity on the boat to replace
the inverter, the new one allows replacing the
inverter with the bypass powering the rest
of the boat).
I am going to have to crimp three 6 AWG wires
in place on the on our boat in Spain, where getting
an electrician to do it is not easy.
Does anyone have a better suggestion then
using a c-clamp on the hammer crimping
tool from West Marine?
http://mastercatalog04.westmarine.com/0666.asp
Heavy cable crimping tool.
I do not want to buy the $500 crimper that
professionals use.
If others have ideas for Scott, please feel free to suggest them, ( I
emailed an EBAY link to him off-list) however in the context of this list,
I'm not sure it's a good place for a discussion of this type? I am open to
feedback from others about this opinion.
On the other hand, it brings up a really good point.
When you are far from home, and you need assistance from a group of
enthusiasts like we have gathered here, a virtual community of skilled
individuals, accessing them by the Internet is indeed powerful. How do our
list members feel about equipping their passagemaking boats with Internet
accessible email tools? Given the discussion I've observed to KISS, I
wonder if this is one of those "want to haves" versus "need to haves". For
me, I can't imagine not having Internet access, for exactly the kind of help
Scott is looking for, or to simply keep in touch. From my research, it
seems like it may be the least costly way of communicating at sea (sailmail
w ssb). Thoughts? Thanks, Scott. B.
Scott Bulger
Knot@Work, 31' Camano
Seattle WA
-----Original Message-----
From:
passagemaking-under-power-bounces+scottebulger=comcast.net@lists.samurai.com
[mailto:passagemaking-under-power-bounces+scottebulger=comcast.net@lists.sam
urai.com]On Behalf Of scottstrickland@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 5:05 AM
To: passagemaking-under-power@lists.samurai.com
Subject: [PUP] Crimping large wires.
I am changing the inverter bypass to allow rapid
swap-out of the inverter. (The old bypass required
turning off all A/C electricity on the boat to replace
the inverter, the new one allows replacing the
inverter with the bypass powering the rest
of the boat).
I am going to have to crimp three 6 AWG wires
in place on the on our boat in Spain, where getting
an electrician to do it is not easy.
Does anyone have a better suggestion then
using a c-clamp on the hammer crimping
tool from West Marine?
http://mastercatalog04.westmarine.com/0666.asp
Heavy cable crimping tool.
I do not want to buy the $500 crimper that
professionals use.
As long as the connectors are the correct size for the wire I use large
channel locks to crimp 0 to 8 AWG no problem.
Willy
Invader No 1
39 Kishi conversion
----- Original Message -----
From: scottstrickland@comcast.net
To: passagemaking-under-power@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 5:05 AM
Subject: [PUP] Crimping large wires.
I am changing the inverter bypass to allow rapid
swap-out of the inverter. (The old bypass required
turning off all A/C electricity on the boat to replace
the inverter, the new one allows replacing the
inverter with the bypass powering the rest
of the boat).
I am going to have to crimp three 6 AWG wires
in place on the on our boat in Spain, where getting
an electrician to do it is not easy.
Does anyone have a better suggestion then
using a c-clamp on the hammer crimping
tool from West Marine?
http://mastercatalog04.westmarine.com/0666.asp
Heavy cable crimping tool.
I do not want to buy the $500 crimper that
professionals use.
Passagemaking-Under-Power Mailing List
This site is a good source (very technical) for information on HF/SSB
propagation theory. It is oriented to the portion of the amateur radio
community that is interested in long distance communication on the high
frequency (3 to 30Mhz) bands.
http://www.arrl.org/tis/info/propagation.html
Note that wavelengths are sometimes used in this article instead of
frequencies. They are inversely related by the equation wavelength(meters)
= 300/Frequency(Mhz)
Hal
K6UWH
m/y Que Linda
[This E-mail was scanned for viruses.]
I'm confused, does Scott mean ordinary 6 gauge wire that I crimp with a $100 street price ratchet crimper? This should be on all cruising boats. Plus manual crimpers for larger battery cables.
Besides, Spain has battery stores. Cut the wire and walk in with your fittings and offer to pay them for crimping them.
Ron Rogers
I took it as having to crimp the wires in place? Not having enough room to swing his hammer to crimp with the tool he has?
Willy
Invader No 1
39 Kishi conversion
----- Original Message -----
From: Ron Rogers
To: Passagemaking Under Power List
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 12:14 PM
Subject: Re: [PUP] Crimping large wires.
I'm confused, does Scott mean ordinary 6 gauge wire that I crimp with a $100 street price ratchet crimper? This should be on all cruising boats. Plus manual crimpers for larger battery cables.
Besides, Spain has battery stores. Cut the wire and walk in with your fittings and offer to pay them for crimping them.
Ron Rogers
Passagemaking-Under-Power Mailing List
It's become apparent, after a month or so, that there isn't much
on-PUP topic here. I guess there aren't many folks PUPing or planning
to. This is disappointing to us, as we're interested in all the PUP info we
can get.
We're planning to do what the PO did, although not near as ambitious as
rounding Cape Stiff. The PO is having a Diesel Duck built in the US
specifically for PUPing from New England to Greenland, Iceland and Europe in
2007. He has invited us to come along, and I believe we'll accept.
Hopefully, we can join him for a portion of the delivery trip from the PNW
to New England, as well.
Next November, we plan to bring "Seahorse" to the Eastern Caribbean, where
we are now sailing our Westsail 43, "Truelove." In Trinidad, we can get
some of that nice TBT paint applied, as well as cheap labor to do some
modifications. This will also give us some sea-time in familiar waters on
"the Horse" in preparation for the European voyage. We'd do our easting
from Norfolk to Bermuda, south thru the Sargasso to the VI and then down the
island chain to Trinidad or Venezuela, likely returning through the Greater
Antilles and the Bahamas and then north in the Stream.
But, I digress.
Although I know from experience that these lists' content is seldom limited
to their titles, I do think that a lot of the PUP content I've seen would be
better off on T&T or rec.boats.designing (jk). I'm afraid that although
there are many people passagemaking under power, few are subscribed to the
list; hence the lack of "meat," aside from Georgs' forwards. It is those
people who know "what works and what doesn't" as well as where the Post
office is in Horta. But, this information is readily available on any number
of listservers or in their archives, as well as through mediums such as
SSCA bulletins. I'd like to see more info peculiar to PUPsters, such as the
recent "storm plates" thread, less the speculation; inasmuch as hard data is
what I seek to prepare us for PUPing.
Just my .02
John (sailing in Bequia, St. Vincent, West Indies)
"Seahorse" - a Skookum 53 troller
however in the context of this list,
I'm not sure it's a good place for a discussion of this type? I am open
to
feedback from others about this opinion.
You need to prime the PUP pump. If you ask questions, the Bob Austins of the
world will respond. You may find the "Storm Plates" thread imprecise, but
without a marine engineer, PE, or NA calculating the specific forces on your
window spaces under conditions that you specify, you are unlikely to get
precision. You will find precision in Dashew's writings, but they have
different guidelines than most. They talk about what they can afford, but
even that is different. They are building for the Southern Ocean and around
the Capes, I'm not going there. They had calculations done and then exceeded
that recommendation by 3(?)mm. On some boats, the wall would blow out before
the windows. They also engage in two-way discussions with suppliers to get
their views. Someone taught me to ask the tradesman or vendor for their
recommendation as they will have to stand behind their work or product. Of
course, your recourse off the coast of Columbia may vary. When the USCG
built their own boats in Curtis Bay, MD, it was clear that they were way
over-built. Why? Because they knew the boats were going out if they could
get out. So the scantlings were the most rugged they could produce and still
have the boat float. On a few 40 boats, made of steel, the window frames are
ringed by bolts with tight spacing. They neither have the time nor the
inclination to rig storm plates, they need the visibility and window
strength and mount are purpose-designed.
So, if I were you, I would place your questions in the context that you just
articulated and see if somebody responds with practical experience or can
recommend a designer of vendor to talk with.
My research includes looking up the specs of quality boats built to a
similar
purpose. After looking at the outside of the Nordhavn 57 here in Atlantic
Yacht Basin, you can could do worse than examine their specs and systems.
Ron Rogers
----- Original Message -----
From: "S/Y Truelove" truelove@stratosnet.com
| It's become apparent, after a month or so, that there isn't much
| on-PUP topic here. I guess there aren't many folks PUPing or planning
| to. This is disappointing to us, as we're interested in all the PUP info
we
| can get.
I recently finished moving my batteries and disconnect switches, I
received an outrageous price from a marine rigging shop to crimp about
12 - 2/0 connections. I used my $8 propane torch and a bunch of rosin
core electronic grade solder and some shrink sleeving. Results? - a
professional looking job, only problem I know of with soldering is it
creates a "hard spot" in smaller gauge wiring. You don't want to solder
wires that go to alternators or anywhere on the engine because the
vibration could cause the wire to flex at the hard spot and eventually
break. Since the 2/0 wire is so stiff I don't see that happening on my
job.
tom
The Leonards
M/V Sea Breeze
Myrtle Beach
MTOA #2743
-----Original Message-----
From:
passagemaking-under-power-bounces+hmsbluechip=yahoo.com@lists.samurai.co
m
[mailto:passagemaking-under-power-bounces+hmsbluechip=yahoo.com@lists.sa
murai.com] On Behalf Of scottstrickland@comcast.net
Sent: Friday, February 04, 2005 8:05 AM
To: passagemaking-under-power@lists.samurai.com
Subject: [PUP] Crimping large wires.
I am changing the inverter bypass to allow rapid
swap-out of the inverter. (The old bypass required
turning off all A/C electricity on the boat to replace
the inverter, the new one allows replacing the
inverter with the bypass powering the rest
of the boat).
I am going to have to crimp three 6 AWG wires
in place on the on our boat in Spain, where getting
an electrician to do it is not easy.
Does anyone have a better suggestion then
using a c-clamp on the hammer crimping
tool from West Marine?
http://mastercatalog04.westmarine.com/0666.asp
Heavy cable crimping tool.
I do not want to buy the $500 crimper that
professionals use.
Hi, Ron,
I think you missed my point, or maybe didn't read my message. Or maybe
I'm drinking too much rum.
I already have a boat, recently upgraded and rigged for serious
cruising. My storm plates are fine and I don't feel I need to upgrade
them.The only thing I really want to improve is the paravane retrieval
system, and I have gotten some feedback from a couple of listees. I
would have thought there's be more. But, it isn't an insurmountable
problem.
You suggest NAs and Marine Engineers for engineering. Funny, when I
mentioned that a while back, many listees jumped to the defense of
designers who don't possess these credentials. But then you are a
long-time and well-known member and I am not.
Without meaning disrespect, I feel that specs of purpose-built boats are
of little value unless all pertinent information is known. A certain
thickness of tempered glass means nothing unless the other two
dimensions are given, too. Magazines love to publish these "comparisons"
which are essentially meaningless and so don't get them in trouble with
the real clients, the advertisers. Real-world proof-of-performance is
what I seek from those using gear at sea.
John
"Seahorse"
Ron Rogers writes:
You need to prime the PUP pump. If you ask questions, the Bob Austins
of
the
world will respond. You may find the "Storm Plates" thread imprecise,
but
without a marine engineer, PE, or NA calculating the specific forces
on
your
window spaces under conditions that you specify, you are unlikely to
get
precision. You will find precision in Dashew's writings, but they have
different guidelines than most. They talk about what they can afford,
but
even that is different. They are building for the Southern Ocean and
around
the Capes, I'm not going there. They had calculations done and then
exceeded
that recommendation by 3(?)mm. On some boats, the wall would blow out
before
the windows. They also engage in two-way discussions with suppliers to
get
their views. Someone taught me to ask the tradesman or vendor for
their
recommendation as they will have to stand behind their work or
product. Of
course, your recourse off the coast of Columbia may vary. When the
USCG
built their own boats in Curtis Bay, MD, it was clear that they were
way
over-built. Why? Because they knew the boats were going out if they
could
get out. So the scantlings were the most rugged they could produce and
still
have the boat float. On a few 40 boats, made of steel, the window
frames
are
ringed by bolts with tight spacing. They neither have the time nor the
inclination to rig storm plates, they need the visibility and window
strength and mount are purpose-designed.
So, if I were you, I would place your questions in the context that
you
just
articulated and see if somebody responds with practical experience or
can
recommend a designer of vendor to talk with.
My research includes looking up the specs of quality boats built to a
similar
purpose. After looking at the outside of the Nordhavn 57 here in
Atlantic
Yacht Basin, you can could do worse than examine their specs and
systems.
Ron Rogers
----- Original Message -----
From: "S/Y Truelove" truelove@stratosnet.com
| It's become apparent, after a month or so, that there isn't much
| on-PUP topic here. I guess there aren't many folks PUPing or
planning
| to. This is disappointing to us, as we're interested in all the PUP
info
we
| can get.