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Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

PP
Philip Pemberton
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 2:06 PM

Right then, time for a writeup :)

Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced
as follows:

  • Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on
    Ebay. These turned out not to be required...

  • Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout
    board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be
    needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting).

  • Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81
    in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay
    (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*).

To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and
calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying
freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC
stage failed and the meter reported an input overload.

Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National
Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few
volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily
ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when
probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit).

Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had
no effect on the failure symptoms.

This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC
socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support
circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator
and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description.

For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2
was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of
seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29
(3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to
prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain.

For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over
C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15
pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode.

The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've
never been much good with JFET circuits!

After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range.
This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole
AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz
sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output
at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the
AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the
meter is functioning normally.

I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input,
selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3.

After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and
current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest
ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current
range) may prove somewhat tricky...

Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the
plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape)
has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself...

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/

Right then, time for a writeup :) Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows: * Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required... * Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting). * Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (<http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*>). To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload. Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit). Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms. This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description. For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain. For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode. The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits! After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range. This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally. I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3. After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current range) may prove somewhat tricky... Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself... Thanks, -- Phil. philpem@philpem.me.uk http://www.philpem.me.uk/
DC
David C. Partridge
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 2:19 PM

Service manual (page 3.6 item 7) says to use 20VAC range, shorted inputs, adjust trim pot for zero volts

Re: gluing front panel - VERY tricky to remove without putting creases in - been there done that :(.  Better to just sparingly inject contact adhesive in strategic areas, wait until mostly dry, and press together.

As the only part replaced was IC15, the calibration should not be upset, as it’s the resistors that determine the gain, not the op-amp.

HtH
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton
Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

Right then, time for a writeup :)

Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows:

  • Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required...

  • Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting).

  • Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*).

To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload.

Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National
Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit).

Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms.

This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description.

For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain.

For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over
C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode.

The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits!

After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range.
This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally.

I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3.

After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current
range) may prove somewhat tricky...

Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself...

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Service manual (page 3.6 item 7) says to use 20VAC range, shorted inputs, adjust trim pot for zero volts Re: gluing front panel - VERY tricky to remove without putting creases in - been there done that :(. Better to just *sparingly* inject contact adhesive in strategic areas, wait until mostly dry, and press together. As the only part replaced was IC15, the calibration should not be upset, as it’s the resistors that determine the gain, not the op-amp. HtH Dave -----Original Message----- From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07 To: volt-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins Right then, time for a writeup :) Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows: * Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required... * Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting). * Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (<http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*>). To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload. Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit). Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms. This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description. For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain. For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode. The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits! After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range. This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally. I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3. After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current range) may prove somewhat tricky... Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself... Thanks, -- Phil. philpem@philpem.me.uk http://www.philpem.me.uk/ _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.
MK
m k
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 2:28 PM

I have had to calibrate quite a few DVM's that use RMS to DC converter chips and all of them give a lightly better overall accuracy if you do not trim to a true zero at zero input, it makes the low level linearity a LOT worse. the self noise of the gilbert cell needs to be partly left there as an output.

M K

From: david.partridge@perdrix.co.uk
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:19:43 +0000
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

Service manual (page 3.6 item 7) says to use 20VAC range, shorted inputs, adjust trim pot for zero volts

Re: gluing front panel - VERY tricky to remove without putting creases in - been there done that :(.  Better to just sparingly inject contact adhesive in strategic areas, wait until mostly dry, and press together.

As the only part replaced was IC15, the calibration should not be upset, as it’s the resistors that determine the gain, not the op-amp.

HtH
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton
Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

Right then, time for a writeup :)

Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows:

  • Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required...

  • Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting).

  • Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*).

To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload.

Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National
Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit).

Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms.

This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description.

For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain.

For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over
C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode.

The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits!

After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range.
This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally.

I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3.

After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current
range) may prove somewhat tricky...

Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself...

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

I have had to calibrate quite a few DVM's that use RMS to DC converter chips and all of them give a lightly better overall accuracy if you do not trim to a true zero at zero input, it makes the low level linearity a LOT worse. the self noise of the gilbert cell needs to be partly left there as an output. M K > From: david.partridge@perdrix.co.uk > To: volt-nuts@febo.com > Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:19:43 +0000 > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins > > Service manual (page 3.6 item 7) says to use 20VAC range, shorted inputs, adjust trim pot for zero volts > > Re: gluing front panel - VERY tricky to remove without putting creases in - been there done that :(. Better to just *sparingly* inject contact adhesive in strategic areas, wait until mostly dry, and press together. > > As the only part replaced was IC15, the calibration should not be upset, as it’s the resistors that determine the gain, not the op-amp. > > HtH > Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton > Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07 > To: volt-nuts@febo.com > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins > > Right then, time for a writeup :) > > Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows: > * Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required... > > * Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting). > > * Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (<http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*>). > > > To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload. > > Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National > Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit). > > Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms. > > This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description. > > For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain. > > For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over > C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode. > > The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits! > > After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range. > This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally. > > I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3. > > After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current > range) may prove somewhat tricky... > > Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself... > > Thanks, > -- > Phil. > philpem@philpem.me.uk > http://www.philpem.me.uk/ > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there.
R
R.Phillips
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 3:13 PM

Philip
Such resolve - bravery above and beyond the call of restoration - I have a
Solartron 7150plus in good working order, after replacing its mains power
input filter !!  -  but is it worth the effort.  I reckon the HP3478A is a
much better instrument for about the same amount of money.
regards
Roy P

-----Original Message-----
From: Philip Pemberton
Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 2:06 PM
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

Right then, time for a writeup :)

Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced
as follows:

  • Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on
    Ebay. These turned out not to be required...

  • Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout
    board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be
    needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting).

  • Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81
    in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay
    (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*).

To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and
calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying
freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC
stage failed and the meter reported an input overload.

Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National
Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few
volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily
ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when
probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit).

Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had
no effect on the failure symptoms.

This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC
socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support
circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator
and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description.

For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2
was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of
seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29
(3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to
prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain.

For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over
C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15
pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode.

The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've
never been much good with JFET circuits!

After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range.
This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole
AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz
sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output
at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the
AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the
meter is functioning normally.

I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input,
selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3.

After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and
current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest
ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current
range) may prove somewhat tricky...

Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the
plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape)
has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself...

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Philip Such resolve - bravery above and beyond the call of restoration - I have a Solartron 7150plus in good working order, after replacing its mains power input filter !! - but is it worth the effort. I reckon the HP3478A is a much better instrument for about the same amount of money. regards Roy P -----Original Message----- From: Philip Pemberton Sent: Monday, December 24, 2012 2:06 PM To: volt-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins Right then, time for a writeup :) Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows: * Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required... * Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting). * Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (<http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*>). To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload. Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit). Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms. This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description. For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain. For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode. The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits! After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range. This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally. I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3. After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current range) may prove somewhat tricky... Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself... Thanks, -- Phil. philpem@philpem.me.uk http://www.philpem.me.uk/ _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.
DC
David C. Partridge
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 3:52 PM

The adjustment to which Phil was referring is to set the DC level at the output of the opamp which feeds the RMS converter.  IMHO this should be set to zero volts.

I would agree that the "Low" value for calibrating an AC range should be somewhere around 10% of range as this tends to give better linearity than trying to set a Zero, while in general the "High" valsue should be close to 100% of range.

Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of m k
Sent: 24 December 2012 14:28
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

I have had to calibrate quite a few DVM's that use RMS to DC converter chips and all of them give a lightly better overall accuracy if you do not trim to a true zero at zero input, it makes the low level linearity a LOT worse. the self noise of the gilbert cell needs to be partly left there as an output.

M K

From: david.partridge@perdrix.co.uk
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:19:43 +0000
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

Service manual (page 3.6 item 7) says to use 20VAC range, shorted
inputs, adjust trim pot for zero volts

Re: gluing front panel - VERY tricky to remove without putting creases in - been there done that :(.  Better to just sparingly inject contact adhesive in strategic areas, wait until mostly dry, and press together.

As the only part replaced was IC15, the calibration should not be upset, as it’s the resistors that determine the gain, not the op-amp.

HtH
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com]
On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton
Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

Right then, time for a writeup :)

Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows:

  • Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required...

  • Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting).

  • Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*).

To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload.

Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National
Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit).

Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms.

This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description.

For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain.

For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over
C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode.

The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits!

After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range.
This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally.

I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3.

After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and
current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the
lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the
AC current
range) may prove somewhat tricky...

Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself...

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
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and follow the instructions there.

The adjustment to which Phil was referring is to set the DC level at the output of the opamp which feeds the RMS converter. IMHO this should be set to zero volts. I would agree that the "Low" value for calibrating an AC range should be somewhere around 10% of range as this tends to give better linearity than trying to set a Zero, while in general the "High" valsue should be close to 100% of range. Dave -----Original Message----- From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of m k Sent: 24 December 2012 14:28 To: volt-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins I have had to calibrate quite a few DVM's that use RMS to DC converter chips and all of them give a lightly better overall accuracy if you do not trim to a true zero at zero input, it makes the low level linearity a LOT worse. the self noise of the gilbert cell needs to be partly left there as an output. M K > From: david.partridge@perdrix.co.uk > To: volt-nuts@febo.com > Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2012 14:19:43 +0000 > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins > > Service manual (page 3.6 item 7) says to use 20VAC range, shorted > inputs, adjust trim pot for zero volts > > Re: gluing front panel - VERY tricky to remove without putting creases in - been there done that :(. Better to just *sparingly* inject contact adhesive in strategic areas, wait until mostly dry, and press together. > > As the only part replaced was IC15, the calibration should not be upset, as it’s the resistors that determine the gain, not the op-amp. > > HtH > Dave > -----Original Message----- > From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] > On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton > Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07 > To: volt-nuts@febo.com > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins > > Right then, time for a writeup :) > > Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows: > * Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required... > > * Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting). > > * Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (<http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*>). > > > To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload. > > Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National > Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit). > > Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms. > > This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description. > > For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain. > > For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over > C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode. > > The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits! > > After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range. > This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally. > > I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3. > > After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and > current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the > lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the > AC current > range) may prove somewhat tricky... > > Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself... > > Thanks, > -- > Phil. > philpem@philpem.me.uk > http://www.philpem.me.uk/ > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.
DC
David C. Partridge
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 3:54 PM

Re: Drift of RMS converter - wait until after 24 hour warm up - does it drift after that? If not all is well.

Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton
Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins

Right then, time for a writeup :)

Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows:

  • Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required...

  • Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting).

  • Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*).

To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload.

Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National
Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit).

Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms.

This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description.

For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain.

For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over
C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode.

The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits!

After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range.
This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally.

I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3.

After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current
range) may prove somewhat tricky...

Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself...

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/


volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Re: Drift of RMS converter - wait until after 24 hour warm up - does it drift after that? If not all is well. Dave -----Original Message----- From: volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:volt-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Philip Pemberton Sent: 24 December 2012 14:07 To: volt-nuts@febo.com Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Solartron 7150plus - Chasing AC gremlins Right then, time for a writeup :) Long story short - the 7150Plus is just about fixed. Parts were sourced as follows: * Three 3N163 "analog switch" FETs at £11 each from Littlediode on Ebay. These turned out not to be required... * Analog Devices AD637 (SOIC16) RMS-to-DC converted with SOIC breakout board. About £30 of silicon and plastic... also not used (though may be needed later if the 637 in the meter doesn't stop drifting). * Three LH0062H opamps. $45 US plus shipping for all three, or £27.81 in the Queen's currency - also obtained from ebay (<http://myworld.ebay.co.uk/techno*>). To recap, the problem was that the AC ranges were drifting badly and calibration reported an error condition after warm-up. After applying freeze spray to the opamp/FET section of the AC stage, the whole AC stage failed and the meter reported an input overload. Initial investigations suggested that IC15 (LH0062C, National Semiconductor) was running open loop (output was clipped to within a few volts of the negative-15V rail). No reason for this could be readily ascertained and the feedback loop was producing erroneous results when probed with a DMM (due to the opamp feeding back into the circuit). Initially I suspected IC18 (DG211, Siliconix) and replaced it. This had no effect on the failure symptoms. This morning I desoldered the LH0062C and replaced it with an 8-pin IC socket (machined-pin type of course). Probing the opamp support circuitry with the opamp out of circuit suggested that the attenuator and feedback loop were now operating as per the service manual description. For "Gain of 10" ranges, resistance between IC15 pin 6 and IC15 pin 2 was measured at 1M-ohm after a settling delay of several tens of seconds. The settling delay can be attributed to the charging of C29 (3u3); the resistance is from R72 (1Meg). TR12 (WN1001) appears to prevent the multimeter from measuring the R21a/R21b divider chain. For "Gain of 1" (unity) ranges, IC18 SW3 (pins 9, 10, 11) shorts over C24 and puts the opamp into a unity gain state. Resistance between IC15 pins 6 and 2 is approximately 30 Ohms in this mode. The function of TR12 and the circuitry around it still elude me. I've never been much good with JFET circuits! After replacing the opamp, the AC range was selected with a 2V range. This sets the attenuator to 1:1 mode and IC15's gain to unity. The whole AC chain now acts as a buffer. Applying a 2V pk-pk (~0.7V RMS) 400Hz sine to the input with a signal generator and probing the opamp output at TP3 suggested that the opamp was now functioning to spec. Testing the AC ranges suggests that aside from some expected calibration issues, the meter is functioning normally. I'm hoping that trimming the offset is as simple as grounding the input, selecting the lowest AC voltage range and adjusting for zero volts at TP3. After that, I need to figure out how to calibrate the AC voltage and current ranges! I'm hoping the signal generator will work for the lowest ranges, but the 20V, 200V and 750V ranges (not to mention the AC current range) may prove somewhat tricky... Then finally I need to remove the front panel and re-glue it to the plastic base. Unfortunately the old glue (actually double-sided tape) has perished and the front panel is now looking a little sorry for itself... Thanks, -- Phil. philpem@philpem.me.uk http://www.philpem.me.uk/ _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.
PP
Philip Pemberton
Mon, Dec 24, 2012 4:03 PM

On 24/12/12 15:54, David C. Partridge wrote:

Re: Drift of RMS converter - wait until after 24 hour warm up - does it drift after that? If not all is well.

Well, after an hour of warming up I'm getting calibration errors again...

Lowpoint 0.01V RMS (10mV)
Highpoint 0.2V RMS (200mV)
Range 0.2V

Confirmed the input values with the DSO and a calibrated Agilent
multimeter, but after entering these values the meter refuses to
calibrate. Display shows "ERROR". :(

So it looks like I'm back to the original fault...

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/

On 24/12/12 15:54, David C. Partridge wrote: > Re: Drift of RMS converter - wait until after 24 hour warm up - does it drift after that? If not all is well. Well, after an hour of warming up I'm getting calibration errors again... Lowpoint 0.01V RMS (10mV) Highpoint 0.2V RMS (200mV) Range 0.2V Confirmed the input values with the DSO and a calibrated Agilent multimeter, but after entering these values the meter refuses to calibrate. Display shows "ERROR". :( So it looks like I'm back to the original fault... Thanks, -- Phil. philpem@philpem.me.uk http://www.philpem.me.uk/
PP
Philip Pemberton
Tue, Dec 25, 2012 11:31 PM

On 24/12/12 16:03, Philip Pemberton wrote:

On 24/12/12 15:54, David C. Partridge wrote:

Re: Drift of RMS converter - wait until after 24 hour warm up - does it drift after that? If not all is well.

Well, after an hour of warming up I'm getting calibration errors again...

Lowpoint 0.01V RMS (10mV)
Highpoint 0.2V RMS (200mV)
Range 0.2V

Confirmed the input values with the DSO and a calibrated Agilent
multimeter, but after entering these values the meter refuses to
calibrate. Display shows "ERROR". :(

So it looks like I'm back to the original fault...

In other news, I've tracked down the fault!

Just to recap - the original fault was that the AC voltage measurement
would drift over time. My Agilent DMM reported 6.984V, the Solartron
reported 6.9540, then six minutes later reported 6.9620, an 80-count
difference. Switching from AC to DC and back again started the whole
merry dance again.

For bonus points, the RMS-to-DC converter was very temperature
sensitive, and would output utterly insane values if I put my finger
anywhere near it - touching the metal cover would make the output clip
to 13V.

Quick explanation of what I've replaced so far --

  • IC21 (RMS-DC converter).
    Didn't fix the drift, though its behaviour was weird enough that I
    deemed it worth replacing for the sake of reliability.
    I couldn't get the CERDIP version, so I bought the AD637BRZ (16pin wide
    SOIC) and a Roth Elektronik RE932-05 adapter PCB. A 14-pin DIP socket
    and some insulated solid-core "bell wire" converted it to match the DIP
    footprint. It doesn't look pretty, but it works fine!

  • IC18 (Analog Switch for AC buffer amp gain setting)
    Original was a Siliconix DG211CJ, replacement is a Vishay-Siliconix
    DG211BDJ. Replacing this didn't do a thing...

So what did fix it?

  • IC5 (Analog Switch for AC signal routing and drift correction)
    Another Siliconix DG211CJ. After I replaced this, the measured voltage
    (with 200mV input) jumped from ~180mV to ~205mV. I suspect this part had
    failed such that the on resistance was markedly higher than it should
    have been. The current going into the A/D input was too low, resulting
    in an erroneous reading which varied over time.
    I suspect there's a "sanity check" in the calibration routine which
    decided (quite rightly) that the calculated CAL factors were silly and
    thus displayed the "ERROR" message - which can probably be translated as
    "either your calibration source isn't working properly or there's a
    hardware fault on this DMM."

On top of this, the reference voltage balance was badly out of
adjustment (spec is 300uV, I measured 3mV). This has probably impaired
the DC calibration too, as it sets the reference voltage for the A/D
converter. Given this and what I've done to repair the meter, it's
probably fair to say that the calibration on the DC ranges is
essentially worthless at this point.

I'm looking into the possibility of building a couple of high-stability
DC and AC sources to calibrate the meter (or at least check its
calibration against the other 7150Plus meter). I found a TI application
note (AN-263 "Sine Wave Generation Techniques") which shows how to do
this for AC using a Wien bridge oscillator, a valve output transformer
and a feedback loop. AC current is on the "need to figure out how to do
that" list.

Who knows, maybe I lucked out and the calibration isn't far off spec...
otherwise I need to find another £60 to get it recalibrated!  (erk!)

Thanks,

Phil.
philpem@philpem.me.uk
http://www.philpem.me.uk/

On 24/12/12 16:03, Philip Pemberton wrote: > On 24/12/12 15:54, David C. Partridge wrote: >> Re: Drift of RMS converter - wait until after 24 hour warm up - does it drift after that? If not all is well. > > Well, after an hour of warming up I'm getting calibration errors again... > > Lowpoint 0.01V RMS (10mV) > Highpoint 0.2V RMS (200mV) > Range 0.2V > > Confirmed the input values with the DSO and a calibrated Agilent > multimeter, but after entering these values the meter refuses to > calibrate. Display shows "ERROR". :( > > So it looks like I'm back to the original fault... In other news, I've tracked down the fault! Just to recap - the original fault was that the AC voltage measurement would drift over time. My Agilent DMM reported 6.984V, the Solartron reported 6.9540, then six minutes later reported 6.9620, an 80-count difference. Switching from AC to DC and back again started the whole merry dance again. For bonus points, the RMS-to-DC converter was very temperature sensitive, and would output utterly insane values if I put my finger anywhere near it - touching the metal cover would make the output clip to 13V. Quick explanation of what I've replaced so far -- * IC21 (RMS-DC converter). Didn't fix the drift, though its behaviour was weird enough that I deemed it worth replacing for the sake of reliability. I couldn't get the CERDIP version, so I bought the AD637BRZ (16pin wide SOIC) and a Roth Elektronik RE932-05 adapter PCB. A 14-pin DIP socket and some insulated solid-core "bell wire" converted it to match the DIP footprint. It doesn't look pretty, but it works fine! * IC18 (Analog Switch for AC buffer amp gain setting) Original was a Siliconix DG211CJ, replacement is a Vishay-Siliconix DG211BDJ. Replacing this didn't do a thing... So what did fix it? * IC5 (Analog Switch for AC signal routing and drift correction) Another Siliconix DG211CJ. After I replaced this, the measured voltage (with 200mV input) jumped from ~180mV to ~205mV. I suspect this part had failed such that the on resistance was markedly higher than it should have been. The current going into the A/D input was too low, resulting in an erroneous reading which varied over time. I suspect there's a "sanity check" in the calibration routine which decided (quite rightly) that the calculated CAL factors were silly and thus displayed the "ERROR" message - which can probably be translated as "either your calibration source isn't working properly or there's a hardware fault on this DMM." On top of this, the reference voltage balance was badly out of adjustment (spec is 300uV, I measured 3mV). This has probably impaired the DC calibration too, as it sets the reference voltage for the A/D converter. Given this and what I've done to repair the meter, it's probably fair to say that the calibration on the DC ranges is essentially worthless at this point. I'm looking into the possibility of building a couple of high-stability DC and AC sources to calibrate the meter (or at least check its calibration against the other 7150Plus meter). I found a TI application note (AN-263 "Sine Wave Generation Techniques") which shows how to do this for AC using a Wien bridge oscillator, a valve output transformer and a feedback loop. AC current is on the "need to figure out how to do that" list. Who knows, maybe I lucked out and the calibration isn't far off spec... otherwise I need to find another £60 to get it recalibrated! (erk!) Thanks, -- Phil. philpem@philpem.me.uk http://www.philpem.me.uk/