3D Printing escapades
I print most plastics on glass by using a very hot bed temperature for the
first layer and then dropping it below Tg after that. 100C for PLA first
layer, 130C for ABS. I do need glue for PCL and Nylon though.
Ny nozzles are mostly J-heads more than 10 years old and the
aperture doesn't get bigger, it gets smaller over time due to the build up
of carbon glaze and has to be reamed back to size with a drill.
I can't really polish the nozzle because the carbon glaze won't just rub
off, even when hot. I would have to abraid it off and it would soon reform.
It is very odd but in the 3D printing world nobody seems to get the same
results. Especially with bed materials and preparation. I have had no luck
with recommended hair spray or pledge polish and numerous other bed
materials.
On Tue, 23 Aug 2022 at 12:52, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I print PLA on my Prusa all of the time. I use their textured print
surface sprayed with hairspray.
Jon
On 8/22/2022 11:53 PM, edmund ronald wrote:
I believe nozzles are precision parts but cheap.
I got a prebuilt Prusa. It worked out of the box with PLA but not
especially well - prints came unstuck, spaghetti etc.
I learnt to wash the base board with hot water and detergent, did some
calibration, that improved things but the prints were never really
nice and the thing was temperamental .
And then for some reason I decided to print PETG. I got a textured
baseboard and some PETG from Prusa, and ran a calibration, the prints
are wonderful,l it just works. All I can say is the thing seems made
for printing PETG, it is rock solid printing PETG, which by the way is
the material is a lot of its parts are printed from. I just printed a
part after the printer had been idle for 3 months and it printed
perfectly.
Moral of the story - I think one should get a printer that does a
certain job well and is known for it, and just do that one thing, do a
calibration, lock down the settings and forget about changing
materials etc, that is a recipe for endless fidddling.
Edmund
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 23/08/2022 13:54, nop head wrote:
It is very odd but in the 3D printing world nobody seems to get the
same results.
because every machine is different, (at least in consumer grade stuff),
every spool of filament is different, every environment is different,
slicers are different, profiles are different. You just have to spend
time, doing test prints, e.g temp. towers, stringing , overhangs, cubes,
etc, for your particular set-up, then fix everything else, like drying
filament (unless you're in Arizona), eliminating draughts, and so on.
And the next spool of filament may be different.
I have to agree with "It is very odd but in the 3D printing world nobody
seems to get the same results. Especially with bed materials and
preparation." although Prusa's success is dependent on people around the
world getting the same results. It is all puzzling.
For a novice user, sometimes the problem is that they know something is
wrong, but do not have the intuition to focus on the actual underlying
cause. But nop head certainly is not a novice user.
Jon
On 8/23/2022 8:54 AM, nop head wrote:
I print most plastics on glass by using a very hot bed temperature for
the first layer and then dropping it below Tg after that. 100C for PLA
first layer, 130C for ABS. I do need glue for PCL and Nylon though.
Ny nozzles are mostly J-heads more than 10 years old and the
aperture doesn't get bigger, it gets smaller over time due to the
build up of carbon glaze and has to be reamed back to size with a drill.
I can't really polish the nozzle because the carbon glaze won't just
rub off, even when hot. I would have to abraid it off and it would
soon reform.
It is very odd but in the 3D printing world nobody seems to get the
same results. Especially with bed materials and preparation. I have
had no luck with recommended hair spray or pledge polish and numerous
other bed materials.
On Tue, 23 Aug 2022 at 12:52, jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
I print PLA on my Prusa all of the time. I use their textured print
surface sprayed with hairspray.
Jon
On 8/22/2022 11:53 PM, edmund ronald wrote:
I believe nozzles are precision parts but cheap.
I got a prebuilt Prusa. It worked out of the box with PLA but not
especially well - prints came unstuck, spaghetti etc.
I learnt to wash the base board with hot water and detergent,
did some
calibration, that improved things but the prints were never really
nice and the thing was temperamental .
And then for some reason I decided to print PETG. I got a textured
baseboard and some PETG from Prusa, and ran a calibration, the
prints
are wonderful,l it just works. All I can say is the thing seems
made
for printing PETG, it is rock solid printing PETG, which by the
way is
the material is a lot of its parts are printed from. I just
printed a
part after the printer had been idle for 3 months and it printed
perfectly.
Moral of the story - I think one should get a printer that does a
certain job well and is known for it, and just do that one
thing, do a
calibration, lock down the settings and forget about changing
materials etc, that is a recipe for endless fidddling.
Edmund
_______________________________________________
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email todiscuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
My experience is that once my Prusa works, it just continues to work,
even moving between different filaments (TPU, PLA, PETG) and different
manufacturers. I did not need to do test prints. It just works, and
continues to work, except when the nozzle-to-print-bed distance changes
for some reason
On 8/23/2022 9:23 AM, Raymond West wrote:
On 23/08/2022 13:54, nop head wrote:
It is very odd but in the 3D printing world nobody seems to get the
same results.
because every machine is different, (at least in consumer grade
stuff), every spool of filament is different, every environment is
different, slicers are different, profiles are different. You just
have to spend time, doing test prints, e.g temp. towers, stringing ,
overhangs, cubes, etc, for your particular set-up, then fix everything
else, like drying filament (unless you're in Arizona), eliminating
draughts, and so on. And the next spool of filament may be different.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
My experience with Prusa matches that of jon: the printer works fine. I
never do test prints. If something goes wrong it's because the sensor that
measures the nozzle-to-bed distance has moved. I assume that's the issue.
Then it needs a new first layer calibration. I've printed PLA, PETG,
Polycarbonate, and high temperature filament all without any significant
issues. I buy my filament from Prusa and use the defaults in PrusaSlicer.
I never fiddle with any of the highly technical settings.
On Tue, Aug 23, 2022 at 9:35 AM jon jon@jonbondy.com wrote:
My experience is that once my Prusa works, it just continues to work,
even moving between different filaments (TPU, PLA, PETG) and different
manufacturers. I did not need to do test prints. It just works, and
continues to work, except when the nozzle-to-print-bed distance changes
for some reason
On 8/23/2022 9:23 AM, Raymond West wrote:
On 23/08/2022 13:54, nop head wrote:
It is very odd but in the 3D printing world nobody seems to get the
same results.
because every machine is different, (at least in consumer grade
stuff), every spool of filament is different, every environment is
different, slicers are different, profiles are different. You just
have to spend time, doing test prints, e.g temp. towers, stringing ,
overhangs, cubes, etc, for your particular set-up, then fix everything
else, like drying filament (unless you're in Arizona), eliminating
draughts, and so on. And the next spool of filament may be different.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Ditto here…..my Prusa Mk3 works fine. You need to know a couple things:
-
PLA is printed on the smooth steel bed sheet
-
PETG has to printed on the matte or rough steel bed sheet, and the printer needs to know this (to correct base layer Z-height) because the matte sheet is THICKER than the standard smooth sheet.
On 8/23/22 18:24, amishtravel@gmail.com wrote:
Ditto here…..my Prusa Mk3 works fine. You need to know a couple things:
-
PLA is printed on the smooth steel bed sheet
-
PETG has to printed on the matte or rough steel bed sheet, and the printer needs to know this (to correct base layer Z-height) because the matte sheet is THICKER than the standard smooth sheet.
While we are correcting things.....
- the MK3 probably does not have a temp compensated prox sensor. So for
consistent bed zero, it needs to cool down. The MK3S+ has a temp comped
prox sensor so isn' t near as critical.
2. the steel sheet isn't thicker but the satin coating is thicker, and
its the steel sheet the
prox sensor is reading. So layer zero is thinner on the satin sheet.
3,4,5 thru around 50 is that fingerprints are poison, and if you want
really good adhesion, take the
sheet to the kitchen sink, wet a reasonably fresh brillo pad and scrub
very very VERY gently, until the
whole surface is wet and soapy, rinse well and let the bed heat dry it
as it warms up. Keep your
fingers off the face of the plate and it will be good for quite a while.
Cheers, Gene Heskett.
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author, 1940)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/
As the OP is off topic, and this discussion is getting further away from the OP, can we drop it now please.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
In openscad I'm generating 3MF files now. Have people seen differences
between using these and stl?
On Wednesday, August 24, 2022, Michael Marx michael@marx.id.au wrote:
As the OP is off topic, and this discussion is getting further away from
the OP, can we drop it now please.
http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient Virus-free.
www.avg.com
http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
<#m_-2798426204401850679_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
I haven't used 3MF but I don't think OpenSCAD can take any advantage of the
format over STL at the moment. I.e. It doesn't support multi-materials and
even the of topology seems to be no advantage because internally OpenSCAD
uses Polysets, which are just polygon soups. So not better than triangle
soups that STL represents.
On Wed, 24 Aug 2022 at 08:40, edmund ronald edmundronald@gmail.com wrote:
In openscad I'm generating 3MF files now. Have people seen differences
between using these and stl?
On Wednesday, August 24, 2022, Michael Marx michael@marx.id.au wrote:
As the OP is off topic, and this discussion is getting further away from
the OP, can we drop it now please.
http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient Virus-free.
www.avg.com
http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
<#m_-2637942424988925385_m_-2798426204401850679_DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2>
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org