#85 NOW January 15, 2006 1000UTC +11 hours (New South Wales, Australia)
Underway South of Eden (S3709 E15002). Temperature 67 (wonderful)\
Greetings from South of Eden,
My departure from Batemans was without incident.
The all night run was rough at first, but then
smoothed out the further South I went. I dropped
anchor in Twofold Bay (Eden) at 0830 and turned
in for a couple of hours sleep.
Since I was planning to stay here for several
days, and it was a bit far to kayak to the wharf,
I dropped the dinghy in the water. Eden is a
delightful town, a bit touristy, but still
retaining its historical seafaring charm. It was
a major whaling station for almost 100 years.
Today, a large fishing fleet operates from this
lovely bay.
I walked into town where I met Old Tom. He is
quit a legend in these parts. Actually, he is
just a bunch of bones resting in a museum, but
his story is remarkable. It goes like this:
The success of Edens whaling station in the
1800s was largely due to a pod of killer whales
that returned each year, known to the locals by
their markings and named Tom, Hooky, Humpy and
Stranger. These killer whales would herd baleen
whales into the shallow water of Twofold Bay and
alert the whalers by flop-tailing (thrashing
the water with their tails) in front of the
whaling station. The whalers would harpoon the
baleens and the killers would nip at the whales
bodies, throw themselves over their blowholes to
stop them breathing and swim beneath them to
prevent them from sounding for help. The
mutually beneficial relationship resulted in the
killers feasting on the whales lips and tongues,
leaving the rest of the carcasses for the whalers
to bring ashore.
This association continued until whaling ceased
in 1928. The final farewell came when Old Tom,
the leader of the pod, was found dead in the bay
in 1930. His was brought ashore and his skeleton
was cleaned and mounted.
I really enjoyed the little town of Eden. It had
all the necessities needed for a cruising sailor:
a good grocery store, bakery, Delo 15-40 engine
oil, a connection to the internet at a reasonable
price, and a peaceful harbor. Each day I would
get the latest weather report for my next leg,
the big jump across Bass Strait to Tasmania. I
plan to do this by first going to Gabo Island,
which is just off the very Southeastern tip of
the mainland. I am hoping to tuck in behind the
island, and get as much sleep as possible. Then
it will be a full-speed-ahead dash of about 185
miles across Bass Strait to Flinders Island. I
anticipate arriving there (town of Lady Barron)
around noon at high tide on Tuesday. The weather
forecast looks perfect for this crossing with a
high-pressure area and light winds out of the NE
most of the way. The trick will be to get some
good sleep off Gabo Island tonight.
I am really looking forward to Tasmania. I have
heard nothing but great reports about this
picturesque island, which is known for its remote
wilderness cruising areas. Unfortunately, I have
just one month (February 15 is our planned
departure for New Zealand) to enjoy this region.
There is so much of the world to seeand so
little time.
Life is a Cruise,
Larry Rick
Done Dreamin'
Nordhavn 40 #33
Site: http://gricknet.homedns.org/Dads%20Web/doneDreamnHome.htm