Shay, The ABYC standard Rudy is talking about is H-40, Anchoring, Mooring and Strong Points. A cut 'n paste of the table won't work on this list. I have attached a screen shot for your reference. It the smae one that in Earl Hinz' book, and the same on that Nigel Calder uses. That said, I strongly encourage anyone with an interest in Anchoring and Mooring systems to visit this website: http://alain.fraysse.free.fr/sail/rode/forces/forces.htm <http://alain.fraysse.free.fr/sail/rode/forces/forces.htm>. Alain Fraysse has done a marvelous job with this analysis. It does have some formulas in it, but not advanced math; just algebra. His work is lesser known, but just as good as Earl Hinz' book, and free. Finally, most people'e eyes glaze over when told to calculate the windage area their boat presents to a wind at 0 degrees and 30 degrees, but I have a way that's actually very easy. Here's how to do it: 1. Measure the beam and the air draft of the boat (if you don't already know it); 2. Take a digital photograph of your boat directly off the bow; straight on, 0 degrees; 3. Take a second digital photo of the boat at a 30 degree angle to the centerline (longitudinal axis) of the boat; 4. Using OpenOffice Calc (or Microsoft Excel if you like making Bill Gates richer), "Open" a spread sheet; 5. Adjust the spread sheet so that all of the cells are square; 6. Inset one of the above digital photos into the sheet; 7. Adjust the size of the photo so that it fills the screen; 8. Now is the singe most challenging step. Adjust the height and width of the cells - for this example, let's assume beam is 14' and air draft is 20' - so that 14 square cells span the beam in your underlying photo, and then make sure the air draft is actually what you measured. It will be close, and for this exercise, adjust it to be correct; 9. Starting at the waterline, count the number of squares that cover the structure of the boat in each row, row-by-row. Each square equals 1 square foot; 10. Do this for each row of the sheet. It's OK to estimate to within 1/2 sq ft. The waterine number may be 11 sq ft, while the mast will be 1 sq ft or less; 11. Include things like flybridge enclosures, dinghies mounted on deck, radomes, etc. Anything the represents wind drag in your boat when it's anchored; 12. Final step: add up all the individual rows - 20 in the above example - and viola, you have the frontage area of your own boat. Do this again with the 30 degree photo, and you have the area the boat presents to the wind at 30 degrees. You can see the results of this process for Sanctuary on my website, here: https://gilwellbear.wordpress.com/category/boat-technical-topics/anchoring/anchor-rode-windage-loads/ <https://gilwellbear.wordpress.com/category/boat-technical-topics/anchoring/anchor-rode-windage-loads/>. If you are snowed in and have nothing better to do, you can do what I did and take this one step farther. Once the photo is set up in OpenOffice Calc (or MS Excel), you can use the drawing tools to make a line diagram of the boat. If you have a picture of the boat out of the water, you can make up a 90 degree elevation of the boat that includes the keel, running gear, etc. Here's a .pdf of what I did, for you to see: I know the attachments won't come through on the list, but anyone who'd like to have the .pdf can drop me a note. As you can see, this is an activity for a 34 degree rainy day. And, assumes you haven't got a project going on in the wood shop... Jim Peg and Jim Healy aboard Sanctuary, currently at Charlotte Harbor, Punta Gorda, FL http://gilwellbear.wordpress.com <http://gilwellbear.wordpress.com/> Monk 36 Hull #132 MMSI #367042570 AGLCA #3767 MTOA #3436