$12.... inflation. -John ============= > hate say it. > Time for the $3 timex > > On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Bill S <wls@jbpet.com> wrote: > >> As an aside to the watch repair business, a large number of brands >> primarily Swiss, will no longer supply parts to watchmakers. This has >> become >> a big issue among the independent watch repairers in the US. It really >> is an >> issue of restraint of trade but is currently unresolved. Though not >> exclusively, the makers refusing to supply parts are the higher end >> makers. >> In order to get your Patek Phillipe repaired for example, you must bring >> it >> to an authorized Patek dealer who then (usually) will send it to a >> central >> repair location. The cost of repair is substantially higher under those >> circumstances. A list of makers refusing to supply parts to independent >> repairers can be found here: >> >> http://www.ccwatchmaker.com/restrictedbrands.html >> >> Bill S >> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >

Stan; Here is a source for the necessary tools: http://www.ofrei.com/page557.html Note that they are not inexpensive; something to factor in when you consider the overall cost of maintenance. If it really has been 20 years, there is every possibility that the battery has leaked, in which case the repair will not be trivial. Tom Frank On Feb 15, 2011, at 2:43 PM, Stan, W1LE wrote: > Hello The Net: > > When I retired almost 2 decades ago, I put my wristwatch in a drawer and left it there. > I was hoping to never have to use it again. > > Wishful thinking. > > Now I need it, but it does not work, battery is depleted. > I need to open it up and replace the battery. > > Any idea how I get my Oysterquartz open. It does have a back cover, > but is it a right handed or a left handed thread, and where can I find the best tool, > without marring it ? > > Also, any idea what the battery part number is ? > > I should consider replacing the o-ring seal under the cover, any idea where to get one ? > > After I replace the battery, I hope to calibrate it, comparing it to my Trimble GPS/DO. > > Any help is appreciated. > > I had considered getting support from R-USA in NY, but previous support was horribly bad. > > Stan, W1LE Cape Cod FN41sr > > > > > ZZZZz > > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts > and follow the instructions there.

Think long and hard before you try a 2 or 3 pronged wrench on your 6 slotted back. It is almost impossible to not slip with the 2 prong wrench, and the 3 prong Jaxa style is not much better. The manufacturers sold little sheet metal wrenches that engaged all of the slots in the back, and as such are almost idiot proof. You fit the wrench to the back, set the watch face against your fingers, and squeeze the wrench to the back with your thumb. Then using your other hand rotate the wrench handle CCW to loosen. -Chuck Harris Thomas A Frank wrote: > Stan; > > Here is a source for the necessary tools: > > http://www.ofrei.com/page557.html > > Note that they are not inexpensive; something to factor in when you consider the overall cost of maintenance. > > If it really has been 20 years, there is every possibility that the battery has leaked, in which case the repair will > not be trivial. > > Tom Frank

One commercial linear power supply that works well for the T-bolt is Power one's HTAA-16W. This is a 16W triple output 5V 2A +12V (or 15) 0.4A -12V 0.4A unit. While 0.4 is under the warm up rating for the T-bolt it's OK for running. The fact that we are well under running it on +5V and -12V means the +12 is OK at 0.6 to 0.7A for short periods. The 10% derating for 50Hz v 60Hz tells me the transformer is the limiting component. Spreading the load across ratings is OK. They are available new and surplus. New is about $100 but surplus they run 99p to £20.   Robert G8RPI.