Dispatch #3 from the far Eastern Med, dated June 11, before the current conflict started: GREETINGS ye landlubbers from Israel and the Palestinian Territories...renowned for their mystical past disputed present and uncertain future. We're still reeling from the fact that we're hangin' out on our boat where so much Middle Eastern history has occurred. It's mesmeric and loaded with significance that at times can be overwhelming... Since our last update here are some recent ports & highlights: Latakia, Syria, a port town where we left the boat to travel nearly 1,000 miles inland via bus to visit notable locations - Crac des Chevalier - a well preserved Crusaders Castle (reputed to be the best there is) and really the epitome of the dream castle of childhood fantasies. The fortress commands an entire valley, fertile plains and the only pass for hundreds of miles. Palmyra - Queen Zenobia's magnificent sandstone city - fabulous above ground tombs, gloriously preserved ruins that once were a thriving desert oasis. It took us several hours traveling through the desert to reach this lush green oasis loaded with palm trees...thus, the name "Palm-yra". A lunch stop in a Bedouin tent in the middle of nowhere proved to be unforgettable...hot, native dancing, camels about and men parading around a cooked entire goat (I think) on a platter. The veggies tasted particularly good that day. Temperatures of late have reached to 36 degrees Celsius or, 98 degrees and...they call this their Spring season! Damascus - Much to our surprise, Damascus offered no grand display of architecture for being the oldest capital in the world. A bustling city where a quarter of the country's population resides, the buildings are drab & dingy. It was interesting to see so many Christian churches throughout the city. Notable mention - a quick stop in front of a sign indicating the road to Baghdad, not so far away. Jounieh, Lebanon: We arrived on a hot and hazy morning to the port of Jounieh, barely making out the Beirut skyline just 20 kilometers south. The marina facility is a private club and judging by the luxury cars and skimpy outfits poolside (yes! A pool!), a very exclusive one. Jounieh is largely Christian...these are my people! :) Beirut - Prior to the outbreak of civil war in the early 70's, Beirut was touted as the "Paris of the Middle East". Signs of war torn Beirut are just around most corners... buildings riddled with bullet holes, abandoned houses, etc. Nonetheless, the wealth and redevelopment efforts are quite apparent. In dramatic contrast to nearby Damascus, Syria Beirut is very contemporary and westernized. I felt at ease and at home there - really. The National Museum of Beirut - A terrific museum with an amazing collection of antiquities from pre-history Bronze Age (3200-1200 BC) and continues through to the Arab conquest and the Ottoman Period (635 - 1516 AD). Particularly, moving was a short film clip depicting the significant damage the museum sustained during the Lebanese war (1975-91) and the clever efforts to safeguard the priceless antiquities during that horrible time. Bekaa Valley - Another extraordinary Roman Temple and town site at Baalbeck. Byblos - Biblical Phoenician city and Crusader castle, a picturesque port and enticing souks - Byblos has it all. Meeting the American Deputy Chief Mission, Christopher Murray stationed at the American Embassy in Beirut. French infused cuisine. Super cheap fuel - approx.$2.59/gallon versus $6.00 + at European fuel docks. Even cheaper liquor prices...and, a welcomed American tradition - Dunkin' Donuts(can you believe it!). Human interest note - Often, giddy school children would stop us to practice their English, ask us for our name, how old we were...you know, the basics of English language. One little boy welcomed me to Lebanon, told me he "loved George W. Bush and Condoleezza Rice"...sorta took me by surprise...like where am I?? And, oh yea, he was wearing a t-shirt that said "I luv Las Vegas"...surreal. Lastly...wrapping up in Haifa, Israel: Once again, an overnight passage, this time to Israel's third largest city, Haifa. Seventy four boats most of which are rafted up to the two biggest boats in the fleet, yep, that would be 'Grey Pearl' and our sister ship, 'Autumn Wind', fill this small harbor. As Braun detailed in his recent email, we were greeted about 6 miles off shore from Haifa by at least a dozen or so Israeli patrol, Navy and Police boats and one submarine. No doubt, security is very important here...rather a way of life. We hadn't even secured the dock lines plus, helped other rally boats raft up to us before a group of Israeli security were drilling us with a barrage of questions. We just arrived in Israel a couple days ago...so, there will be more to follow - soon. We hope all is well in that familiar part of the world of yours and one we do miss from time to time! So much to see!! Shalom Braun and Tina Braun and Tina Jones Grey Pearl Nordhavn 62