Ron, Here's a post I put up on another list a couple of years ago. Strongly urge you to look at Alain Frayasse's web site (Goolge the name and you'll find it), and read the two book citations ***BEFORE*** you spend your money. And in case you're interested, unless things have changed in the last 2 ~3 years, the Manson Supreme is the same design (same pros and cons) as the Rocna, for less money. > I am a big fan of the class of anchors called the "Roll-Bar," so generally I'm in agreement with Joe Pica and Milt Baker for the reasons they presented. "Roll-Bar" style anchors includes the Bugel (German), Manson, Rocna and SARCA (Sand and Reef Combination Anchor). There are two things to check with these anchors before you drag one home. First, they have a shank that is made of steel plate, not forgings. The steel plate is thinner in the width dimension and taller in the height dimension than comparable CQR, Danforth and Bruce style fluke or plow style configurations. That Roll-Bar shank will not fit in *some* bow roller assemblies made for Danforth-style or plow-style lower profile shanks. So the first thing you need to verify is that your bow-roller will accept whatever style you decide on. This is especially true for fully enclosed bow pulpit designs fabricated of fiberglass that is a continuous extension of the foredeck. Second, the angle that the spade attaches to the shank, and the length of the spade tip itself, is such that the anchor roller needs to be positioned slightly forward to avoid interference between the spade's tip and the forepeak of the vessel. So, the net is, be sure your choice will fit your boat. > > Specific to Rocna, verify with your supplier it's manufacturing origin. If you go with Rocna, spec with your chandlery supplier that you will only accept a unit that carries a "Made in New Zealand" label. Rocna was designed by Peter Smith and was initially manufactured in New Zealand. In the last couple of years, at least some Rocna manufacturing was moved to China. There are anecdotal reports around the Internet that the Chinese steel is not equivalent to New Zealand high carbon steel, and the Chinese production anchors are bending and failing in moderate/severe conditions. I did not personally choose Rocna (I use another Roll-Bar anchor), but IF THAT IS THE CASE - YOU MUST DO YOUR OWN HOMEWORK; DO NOT JUST BELIEVE ME - then I would ass/u/me that Rocna comes off the list of desirable alternatives. > > Also, for your consideration, I am a big fan of Eric Hinz' book, "The Complete Guide to Anchoring and Mooring." I am equally a big fan of another book by Alain Poiraud and Erica and Achim Ginsberg-Klemmt called, "The Complete Anchoring Handbook," McGraw Hill (International Marine, Camden, Maine), 2008, ISBN: 978-0-07-147508-2. This book has an appendix with an analysis of static and dynamic chain catenary behavior and forces by Alain Frayasse (complete with the sophisticated math, which you can skip if you're willing to believe him; that's what I did!). These authors are bluewater sailors, not coastal trawlerers. Poiraud is the engineer, inventor of the "Spade" style anchor. They have several really good suggestions. They discuss crevice corrosion of SS in the context of chain, shackles, swivels, etc. They DO NOT like swivels, but have useful advice for "those who must..." They DO NOT like shackles in rodes, and have a great alternative for attaching chain to the anchor shank, which I plan to implement. (They use a heavy duty ss toggle, as found in standing rigging on sailboats, and available at any rigging supplier. The toggle has a roll pin, pivots in any direction, fits more easily through bow rollers, and for attaching anchor shank to chain is a just plain great idea.) I have now implemented the toggle. I really like it in use, and it does come over the bow roller much more smoothly than a standard shackle. And, neither Hinz nor Poiraud > like all-chain rode. Both recommend a hybrid rode, and have [different but] really great ideas for deciding how much chain to use and then how much three or eight strand to use (3-strand for better elasticity, 8-strand for ease of storing). That hybrid configuration eliminates the snubber discussion altogether, by the way. Which we haven't had here... yet... > Anyway, Poiraud's book is a superb supplement to Earl Hinz excellent work, and I commend both to your winter reading list. > > Hope this is useful. Jim Peg and Jim Healy aboard Sanctuary Currently at Charlotte Harbor, Punta Gorda, FL Monk 36 Hull #132 MMSI #367042570 AGLCA #3767 MTOA #3436