Empathy List Archives

CH

Chuck Harris

Mon, Sep 27, 2010 10:18 PM

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl
alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion,
and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of
all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries.

If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol),
buy it from the liquor store.

Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything
but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane,
NO2, and finally CO2.

-Chuck Harris

Andreas Jahn wrote:

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is
much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed
air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion, and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries. If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol), buy it from the liquor store. Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane, NO2, and finally CO2. -Chuck Harris Andreas Jahn wrote: > Hello all, > > thanks for the many informations and proposals. > >> From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are: > > - the isopropylene alcohol > - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner > > both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is > much cheaper. > > And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed > air for drying the cirquit. > > with best regards > > Andreas > > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. >

EG

Eric Garner

Mon, Sep 27, 2010 10:54 PM

Is there a compelling reason not to use canned de-fluxer? I use

http://www.techspray.com/newinfo/1621.pdf

and it seems to leave my boards very nice looking after soldering.
before soldering I give them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol to
degrease.

-Eric

On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:18 PM, Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com wrote:

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl
alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion,
and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of
all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries.

If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol),
buy it from the liquor store.

Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything
but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane,
NO2, and finally CO2.

-Chuck Harris

Andreas Jahn wrote:

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is
much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed
air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

--
--Eric

Eric Garner

Is there a compelling reason not to use canned de-fluxer? I use http://www.techspray.com/newinfo/1621.pdf and it seems to leave my boards very nice looking after soldering. before soldering I give them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol to degrease. -Eric On Mon, Sep 27, 2010 at 3:18 PM, Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> wrote: > I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl > alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion, > and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of > all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries. > > If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol), > buy it from the liquor store. > > Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything > but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane, > NO2, and finally CO2. > > -Chuck Harris > > Andreas Jahn wrote: >> >> Hello all, >> >> thanks for the many informations and proposals. >> >>> From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are: >> >> - the isopropylene alcohol >> - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner >> >> both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is >> much cheaper. >> >> And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed >> air for drying the cirquit. >> >> with best regards >> >> Andreas >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > -- --Eric _________________________________________ Eric Garner

CH

Chuck Harris

Mon, Sep 27, 2010 11:05 PM

I guess it all depends on what it is. If it is trichloro anything,
it is very poisonous to your liver. If it is pentachloro anything,
it is very bad for the environment, sinking quickly to the water
table.

Isopropyl isn't the most aggressive flux solvent, but it does work
well with a little toothbrush scrubbing action. And it leaves the
boards very clean.

I prefer it because it is relatively benign to the environment, and
to my health.

Best probably would be pharma grade ethanol.

-Chuck Harris

Eric Garner wrote:

Is there a compelling reason not to use canned de-fluxer? I use

http://www.techspray.com/newinfo/1621.pdf

and it seems to leave my boards very nice looking after soldering.
before soldering I give them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol to
degrease.

-Eric

I guess it all depends on what it is. If it is trichloro anything, it is very poisonous to your liver. If it is pentachloro anything, it is very bad for the environment, sinking quickly to the water table. Isopropyl isn't the most aggressive flux solvent, but it does work well with a little toothbrush scrubbing action. And it leaves the boards very clean. I prefer it because it is relatively benign to the environment, and to my health. Best probably would be pharma grade ethanol. -Chuck Harris Eric Garner wrote: > Is there a compelling reason not to use canned de-fluxer? I use > > http://www.techspray.com/newinfo/1621.pdf > > and it seems to leave my boards very nice looking after soldering. > before soldering I give them a quick wipe with isopropyl alcohol to > degrease. > > -Eric

RA

Robert Atkinson

Wed, Sep 29, 2010 5:25 PM

Hi,
save your money, don't buy "canned air". It's expensive, not "green" and can cause contamination. Use a hairdryer. For maritial bliss buy a cheap one just for drying boards.

Robert G8RPI.

--- On Mon, 27/9/10, Andreas Jahn Andreas_-_Jahn@t-online.de wrote:

From: Andreas Jahn Andreas_-_Jahn@t-online.de
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits
To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" volt-nuts@febo.com
Date: Monday, 27 September, 2010, 22:21

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Hi, save your money, don't buy "canned air". It's expensive, not "green" and can cause contamination. Use a hairdryer. For maritial bliss buy a cheap one just for drying boards. Robert G8RPI. --- On Mon, 27/9/10, Andreas Jahn <Andreas_-_Jahn@t-online.de> wrote: From: Andreas Jahn <Andreas_-_Jahn@t-online.de> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts@febo.com> Date: Monday, 27 September, 2010, 22:21 Hello all, thanks for the many informations and proposals. >From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are: - the isopropylene alcohol - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is much cheaper. And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed air for drying the cirquit. with best regards Andreas _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.

AJ

Andreas Jahn

Thu, Sep 30, 2010 8:15 PM

Good idea Robert,

I tried the canned air with my battery monitor board for the LTZ-cirquit.
But the board got so cold that the humidity of the air condensed again.
So the dryer will be the better solution.

With best regards

Andreas

----- Original Message -----
From: "Robert Atkinson" robert8rpi@yahoo.co.uk
To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

Hi,
save your money, don't buy "canned air". It's expensive, not "green" and
can cause contamination. Use a hairdryer. For maritial bliss buy a cheap
one just for drying boards.

Robert G8RPI.

Good idea Robert, I tried the canned air with my battery monitor board for the LTZ-cirquit. But the board got so cold that the humidity of the air condensed again. So the dryer will be the better solution. With best regards Andreas ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Atkinson" <robert8rpi@yahoo.co.uk> To: "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Wednesday, September 29, 2010 7:25 PM Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits > Hi, > save your money, don't buy "canned air". It's expensive, not "green" and > can cause contamination. Use a hairdryer. For maritial bliss buy a cheap > one just for drying boards. > > Robert G8RPI. >

RE

Randy Evans

Fri, Oct 8, 2010 10:50 PM

Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning
agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the lowest
leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high value
reistors?

Thanks,

Randy Evans

----- Original Message ----
From: Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl
alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion,
and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of
all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries.

If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol),
buy it from the liquor store.

Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything
but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane,
NO2, and finally CO2.

-Chuck Harris

Andreas Jahn wrote:

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is
much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed
air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the lowest leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high value reistors? Thanks, Randy Evans ----- Original Message ---- From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion, and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries. If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol), buy it from the liquor store. Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane, NO2, and finally CO2. -Chuck Harris Andreas Jahn wrote: > Hello all, > > thanks for the many informations and proposals. > >> From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites are: > > - the isopropylene alcohol > - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner > > both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is > much cheaper. > > And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed > air for drying the cirquit. > > with best regards > > Andreas > > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.

JF

J. Forster

Sat, Oct 9, 2010 1:23 AM

Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs,
preferably the former.

FWIW,

-John

===============

Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning
agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the
lowest
leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high
value
reistors?

Thanks,

Randy Evans

----- Original Message ----
From: Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl
alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion,
and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of
all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries.

If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol),
buy it from the liquor store.

Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything
but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane,
NO2, and finally CO2.

-Chuck Harris

Andreas Jahn wrote:

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites
are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is
much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed
air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs, preferably the former. FWIW, -John =============== > Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning > agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the > lowest > leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high > value > reistors? > > Thanks, > > Randy Evans > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> > To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits > > I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl > alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion, > and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of > all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries. > > If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol), > buy it from the liquor store. > > Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything > but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane, > NO2, and finally CO2. > > -Chuck Harris > > Andreas Jahn wrote: >> Hello all, >> >> thanks for the many informations and proposals. >> >>> From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites >>> are: >> >> - the isopropylene alcohol >> - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner >> >> both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is >> much cheaper. >> >> And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed >> air for drying the cirquit. >> >> with best regards >> >> Andreas >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >

RE

Randy Evans

Sat, Oct 9, 2010 3:04 AM

I will be using teflon stadoffs but I am using range resistors from an old
Keithley 414 Picoammeter that were very dusty and dirty and I need to clean them
prior to using them again. i did clean them with isopropyl alcohol but it left
a residue on them that I want to clean off.

Randy

----- Original Message ----
From: J. Forster jfor@quik.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Fri, October 8, 2010 6:23:36 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs,
preferably the former.

FWIW,

-John

===============

Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning
agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the
lowest
leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high
value
reistors?

Thanks,

Randy Evans

----- Original Message ----
From: Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl
alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion,
and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of
all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries.

If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol),
buy it from the liquor store.

Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything
but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane,
NO2, and finally CO2.

-Chuck Harris

Andreas Jahn wrote:

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites
are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is
much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed
air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

I will be using teflon stadoffs but I am using range resistors from an old Keithley 414 Picoammeter that were very dusty and dirty and I need to clean them prior to using them again. i did clean them with isopropyl alcohol but it left a residue on them that I want to clean off. Randy ----- Original Message ---- From: J. Forster <jfor@quik.com> To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Fri, October 8, 2010 6:23:36 PM Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs, preferably the former. FWIW, -John =============== > Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning > agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the > lowest > leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high > value > reistors? > > Thanks, > > Randy Evans > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> > To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits > > I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl > alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion, > and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of > all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries. > > If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol), > buy it from the liquor store. > > Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything > but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane, > NO2, and finally CO2. > > -Chuck Harris > > Andreas Jahn wrote: >> Hello all, >> >> thanks for the many informations and proposals. >> >>> From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites >>> are: >> >> - the isopropylene alcohol >> - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner >> >> both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is >> much cheaper. >> >> And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed >> air for drying the cirquit. >> >> with best regards >> >> Andreas >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.

JF

J. Forster

Sat, Oct 9, 2010 3:18 AM

Maybe a water wash with a drop of Dawn or the like in it, followed by
several distilled water rinses.

Are you sure your alcohol is clean? Try letting some evaporate on a mirror.

FWIW,

-John

===========

I will be using teflon stadoffs but I am using range resistors from an old
Keithley 414 Picoammeter that were very dusty and dirty and I need to
clean them
prior to using them again. i did clean them with isopropyl alcohol but it
left
a residue on them that I want to clean off.

Randy

----- Original Message ----
From: J. Forster jfor@quik.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Fri, October 8, 2010 6:23:36 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs,
preferably the former.

FWIW,

-John

===============

Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best
solvent/cleaning
agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the
lowest
leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high
value
reistors?

Thanks,

Randy Evans

----- Original Message ----
From: Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl
alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion,
and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of
all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries.

If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol),
buy it from the liquor store.

Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything
but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane,
NO2, and finally CO2.

-Chuck Harris

Andreas Jahn wrote:

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites
are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is
much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed
air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.

Maybe a water wash with a drop of Dawn or the like in it, followed by several distilled water rinses. Are you sure your alcohol is clean? Try letting some evaporate on a mirror. FWIW, -John =========== > I will be using teflon stadoffs but I am using range resistors from an old > Keithley 414 Picoammeter that were very dusty and dirty and I need to > clean them > prior to using them again. i did clean them with isopropyl alcohol but it > left > a residue on them that I want to clean off. > > Randy > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: J. Forster <jfor@quik.com> > To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Fri, October 8, 2010 6:23:36 PM > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits > > Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs, > preferably the former. > > FWIW, > > -John > > =============== > > >> Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best >> solvent/cleaning >> agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the >> lowest >> leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high >> value >> reistors? >> >> Thanks, >> >> Randy Evans >> >> >> >> ----- Original Message ---- >> From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> >> To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> >> Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM >> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits >> >> I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl >> alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion, >> and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of >> all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries. >> >> If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol), >> buy it from the liquor store. >> >> Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything >> but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane, >> NO2, and finally CO2. >> >> -Chuck Harris >> >> Andreas Jahn wrote: >>> Hello all, >>> >>> thanks for the many informations and proposals. >>> >>>> From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites >>>> are: >>> >>> - the isopropylene alcohol >>> - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner >>> >>> both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is >>> much cheaper. >>> >>> And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed >>> air for drying the cirquit. >>> >>> with best regards >>> >>> Andreas >>> >>> >>> >>> _______________________________________________ >>> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to >>> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> > > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > >

RA

Robert Atkinson

Sat, Oct 9, 2010 8:38 AM

Hi,
Pure (99%+) IPA won't leave a residue. It my be dissolving dirt or a coating. For hermetic compounets a clean with dish washing soap and warm water in an ultrasonic cleaner, (followed by a second in fresh solution for very dirty parts), then de-ionised water and finally IPA is excellent. If the components can stand it (metal, glass, teflon, epoxy) pure acetone is one of the best finishing agents. Don't leave it to soak though.
For non-ferrous metal parts add some ammonia solution to the first mix.

Robert G8RPI.

--- On Sat, 9/10/10, Randy Evans randallgrayevans@yahoo.com wrote:

From: Randy Evans randallgrayevans@yahoo.com
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits
To: jfor@quik.com, "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" volt-nuts@febo.com
Date: Saturday, 9 October, 2010, 4:04

I will be using teflon stadoffs but I am using range resistors from an old
Keithley 414 Picoammeter that were very dusty and dirty and I need to clean them
prior to using them again. i did clean them with isopropyl alcohol but it left
a residue on them that I want to clean off.

Randy

----- Original Message ----
From: J. Forster jfor@quik.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Fri, October 8, 2010 6:23:36 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs,
preferably the former.

FWIW,

-John

===============

Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning
agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the
lowest
leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high
value
reistors?

Thanks,

Randy Evans

----- Original Message ----
From: Chuck Harris cfharris@erols.com
To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement volt-nuts@febo.com
Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits

I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl
alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion,
and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of
all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries.

If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol),
buy it from the liquor store.

Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything
but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane,
NO2, and finally CO2.

-Chuck Harris

Andreas Jahn wrote:

Hello all,

thanks for the many informations and proposals.

From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites
are:

the isopropylene alcohol
and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner

both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is
much cheaper.

And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed
air for drying the cirquit.

with best regards

Andreas

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Hi, Pure (99%+) IPA won't leave a residue. It my be dissolving dirt or a coating. For hermetic compounets a clean with dish washing soap and warm water in an ultrasonic cleaner, (followed by a second in fresh solution for very dirty parts), then de-ionised water and finally IPA is excellent. If the components can stand it (metal, glass, teflon, epoxy) pure acetone is one of the best finishing agents. Don't leave it to soak though. For non-ferrous metal parts add some ammonia solution to the first mix. Robert G8RPI. --- On Sat, 9/10/10, Randy Evans <randallgrayevans@yahoo.com> wrote: From: Randy Evans <randallgrayevans@yahoo.com> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits To: jfor@quik.com, "Discussion of precise voltage measurement" <volt-nuts@febo.com> Date: Saturday, 9 October, 2010, 4:04 I will be using teflon stadoffs but I am using range resistors from an old Keithley 414 Picoammeter that were very dusty and dirty and I need to clean them prior to using them again. i did clean them with isopropyl alcohol but it left a residue on them that I want to clean off. Randy ----- Original Message ---- From: J. Forster <jfor@quik.com> To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> Sent: Fri, October 8, 2010 6:23:36 PM Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits Picoamp stuff is usually done with Teflon standoffs or guarded PCBs, preferably the former. FWIW, -John =============== > Separate from cleaning flux off a board, what is the best solvent/cleaning > agent for removing dirt and grime from a board and compnents for the > lowest > leakage currents; e.g., for a picoamp measurement system with very high > value > reistors? > > Thanks, > > Randy Evans > > > > ----- Original Message ---- > From: Chuck Harris <cfharris@erols.com> > To: Discussion of precise voltage measurement <volt-nuts@febo.com> > Sent: Mon, September 27, 2010 3:18:27 PM > Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits > > I don't like denatured alcohol. They add a little methyl > alcohol, which is very poisonous for skin contact, ingestion, > and breathing. Also, it is rather corrosive.... and worst of > all, it leaves behind a white powder when it dries. > > If you really want to use ethanol (the base for denatured alcohol), > buy it from the liquor store. > > Aerosol cans of "compressed air" are really filled with anything > but air. They used to be filled with freon, and then later butane, > NO2, and finally CO2. > > -Chuck Harris > > Andreas Jahn wrote: >> Hello all, >> >> thanks for the many informations and proposals. >> >>> From Your proposals I think the most interesting for my capabilites >>> are: >> >> - the isopropylene alcohol >> - and the "Kontakt LR" cleaner >> >> both for the last (3rd?) cleaning stage since the denatured alcohol is >> much cheaper. >> >> And I have learned that I should get some aerosol cans with compressed >> air for drying the cirquit. >> >> with best regards >> >> Andreas >> >> >> >> _______________________________________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > > > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there. _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.

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Best cleaning procedure for precision cirquits