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Re: repair of a HP E1938A OCXO

V
vilgotch1@gmail.com
Wed, Jun 18, 2025 12:58 AM

The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don’t you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well?

The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don’t you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well?
W
wkb@xs4all.nl
Wed, Jun 18, 2025 11:26 AM

Hello Morris,

The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise).

The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL?  Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven.
In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know.

I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that.

Wilko


From: Morris Odell via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2025 2:58 AM
To: time-nuts@lists.febo.com time-nuts@lists.febo.com
Cc: vilgotch1@gmail.com vilgotch1@gmail.com
Subject: [time-nuts] Re: repair of a HP E1938A OCXO

The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don’t you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well?


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Hello Morris, The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise). The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL? Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven. In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know. I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that. Wilko ________________________________ From: Morris Odell via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> Sent: Wednesday, June 18, 2025 2:58 AM To: time-nuts@lists.febo.com <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> Cc: vilgotch1@gmail.com <vilgotch1@gmail.com> Subject: [time-nuts] Re: repair of a HP E1938A OCXO The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don’t you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well? _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
RK
Richard Karlquist
Wed, Jun 18, 2025 4:49 PM

As far as I remember, the thermistors are identical to the 10811 ones.

I've never heard of "thermistor aging".

I guess it wouldn't hurt to do this test to eliminate aging as a
consideration, it you haven't got anything better to do.

I will point out that if there were thermistor aging, it would be a much
bigger deal on the E1938A, since we set each

individual unit to its own xtal turnover temp.  If we had aging, the
tempco of the E1938A would degrade over time.

The 10811 xtals don't have turnovers, just a wide flat spot, and in any
event the 10811 tempco is orders of magnitude

worse than a properly operating E1938A.  Actually, just speaking of
tempco alone, an E1938A will beat a 5061B; its that good.


Rick Karlquist
N6RK

On 2025-06-17 17:58, Morris Odell via time-nuts wrote:

The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don't you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well?


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As far as I remember, the thermistors are identical to the 10811 ones. I've never heard of "thermistor aging". I guess it wouldn't hurt to do this test to eliminate aging as a consideration, it you haven't got anything better to do. I will point out that if there were thermistor aging, it would be a much bigger deal on the E1938A, since we set each individual unit to its own xtal turnover temp. If we had aging, the tempco of the E1938A would degrade over time. The 10811 xtals don't have turnovers, just a wide flat spot, and in any event the 10811 tempco is orders of magnitude worse than a properly operating E1938A. Actually, just speaking of tempco alone, an E1938A will beat a 5061B; its that good. --- Rick Karlquist N6RK On 2025-06-17 17:58, Morris Odell via time-nuts wrote: > The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don't you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well? > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
BC
Bob Camp
Wed, Jun 18, 2025 5:14 PM

Hi

Three glass encapsulated thermistors all changing value in the same direction is highly unlikely. About the
only way they fail is to crack. That might be due to an assembly issue (= lack of strain relief). When they crack,
they don’t just move a little ….

“A whole lot” of aging on this sort of part might move the temperature a couple of degrees. Based on decades
of testing, (of multiple groups with sample sizes in the dozens) even that level of change not was observed
to happen on this sort of part.

Bob

On Jun 18, 2025, at 12:49 PM, Richard Karlquist via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:

As far as I remember, the thermistors are identical to the 10811 ones.

I've never heard of "thermistor aging".

I guess it wouldn't hurt to do this test to eliminate aging as a
consideration, it you haven't got anything better to do.

I will point out that if there were thermistor aging, it would be a much
bigger deal on the E1938A, since we set each

individual unit to its own xtal turnover temp.  If we had aging, the
tempco of the E1938A would degrade over time.

The 10811 xtals don't have turnovers, just a wide flat spot, and in any
event the 10811 tempco is orders of magnitude

worse than a properly operating E1938A.  Actually, just speaking of
tempco alone, an E1938A will beat a 5061B; its that good.


Rick Karlquist
N6RK

On 2025-06-17 17:58, Morris Odell via time-nuts wrote:

The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don't you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well?


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Hi Three glass encapsulated thermistors all changing value in the same direction is highly unlikely. About the only way they fail is to crack. That might be due to an assembly issue (= lack of strain relief). When they crack, they don’t just move a little …. “A whole lot” of aging on this sort of part might move the temperature a couple of degrees. Based on decades of testing, (of multiple groups with sample sizes in the dozens) even that level of change not was observed to happen on this sort of part. Bob > On Jun 18, 2025, at 12:49 PM, Richard Karlquist via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote: > > As far as I remember, the thermistors are identical to the 10811 ones. > > I've never heard of "thermistor aging". > > I guess it wouldn't hurt to do this test to eliminate aging as a > consideration, it you haven't got anything better to do. > > I will point out that if there were thermistor aging, it would be a much > bigger deal on the E1938A, since we set each > > individual unit to its own xtal turnover temp. If we had aging, the > tempco of the E1938A would degrade over time. > > The 10811 xtals don't have turnovers, just a wide flat spot, and in any > event the 10811 tempco is orders of magnitude > > worse than a properly operating E1938A. Actually, just speaking of > tempco alone, an E1938A will beat a 5061B; its that good. > > --- > Rick Karlquist > N6RK > > On 2025-06-17 17:58, Morris Odell via time-nuts wrote: > >> The thermistor resistances might have drifted up to the point where the control circuit/PIC thinks they are open, disconnected or otherwise out of range. Why don't you try tacking in a resistor across the three thermistors (in series) to lower the cold resistance by a kilohm or so and see whether that can fool the control circuit into switching on the heaters? Have you checked the resistance of the upper resistor (feeding the thermistors) in the bridge circuit as well? >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
G
glenlist
Wed, Jun 18, 2025 9:16 PM

I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if  that was
helpful...

On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote:

Hello Morris,

The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise).

The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL?  Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven.
In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know.

I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that.

I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if  that was helpful... On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote: > Hello Morris, > > The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise). > > The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL? Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven. > In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know. > > I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that. >
V
vilgotch1@gmail.com
Wed, Jun 18, 2025 10:30 PM

Hi all,

Point taken about thermistor ageing being most unlikely however I can’t get away from the idea that the known good ADC/PIC system is getting the wrong message from the oven assembly, causing it to shut down the MOSFETs that drive the heaters. Maybe driving pin 8 of the oven connector, which is the thermistor bridge output,  from a variable voltage source around 1.25 volts is worth trying to see whether a range of voltages on that pin can allow the system to fire up. Before doing that,  check pin 15 to make sure the 1.25 volt bridge reference is getting through. I suspect that the ADC/PIC compares the thermistor output to the reference and if it’s out of range the system shuts down.

Morris

Hi all, Point taken about thermistor ageing being most unlikely however I can’t get away from the idea that the known good ADC/PIC system is getting the wrong message from the oven assembly, causing it to shut down the MOSFETs that drive the heaters. Maybe driving pin 8 of the oven connector, which is the thermistor bridge output, from a variable voltage source around 1.25 volts is worth trying to see whether a range of voltages on that pin can allow the system to fire up. Before doing that, check pin 15 to make sure the 1.25 volt bridge reference is getting through. I suspect that the ADC/PIC compares the thermistor output to the reference and if it’s out of range the system shuts down. Morris
WB
Wilko Bulte
Thu, Jun 19, 2025 7:51 AM

I would be interested in whatever resistance the thermistors measure at when cold. Just to get another data point.

Thanks you Rick, for your comment on failure or drift being highly unlikely. The thermistors are mounted in the inner ring using some flexible (silicone?) compound, so mechanical stress induced problems I feel are unlikely.

thanks, Wilko

On 19 Jun 2025, at 02:19, glenlist via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:

I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if  that was helpful...

On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote:
Hello Morris,

The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise).

The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL?  Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven.
In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know.

I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that.


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To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com

I would be interested in whatever resistance the thermistors measure at when cold. Just to get another data point. Thanks you Rick, for your comment on failure or drift being highly unlikely. The thermistors are mounted in the inner ring using some flexible (silicone?) compound, so mechanical stress induced problems I feel are unlikely. thanks, Wilko > On 19 Jun 2025, at 02:19, glenlist via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote: > > I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if that was helpful... > >> On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote: >> Hello Morris, >> >> The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise). >> >> The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL? Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven. >> In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know. >> >> I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that. >> > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
BC
Bob Camp
Thu, Jun 19, 2025 12:16 PM

Hi

NTC thermistors have a wonderful parameter on their spec sheets known as beta.

It drives a formula that computes resistance over temperature. Wikipedia “thermistor” and it will give you all the grubby math details.

The problem is that beta is not a tightly controlled parameter. The fabrication process on a thermistor can only control it to a limited degree.

The net result is that you can buy a thermistor that is very accurate at (or near) one temperature. When you get well away from that temperature the values of a group of parts diverge. The values on different groups diverge even further.

Since these are precision matched parts, you can’t just replace one of them. You would have to replace the whole set. They also are not something you can buy on the open market. An OEM contracts with a thermistor outfit to buy a custom part. They then order them thousands at a time. They just might pay many thousands of dollars for each batch.

There are alternative approaches, some manufacturers have a pretty large room full of “raw” thermistor material. They buy it in bulk and sort it. They then chop it up “as needed” and match the design parameters on the OCXO up with the material. This is more common with PTC than NTC materials.

Simple debug answer in this case is to monitor the voltage at the junction of the thermistors and that resistor. See what it does as the unit heats up. For further fun, monitor the voltages across each thermistor as this happens. If you don’t see anything strange, move on to the other parts of the circuit.

Bob

On Jun 19, 2025, at 3:51 AM, Wilko Bulte via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:

I would be interested in whatever resistance the thermistors measure at when cold. Just to get another data point.

Thanks you Rick, for your comment on failure or drift being highly unlikely. The thermistors are mounted in the inner ring using some flexible (silicone?) compound, so mechanical stress induced problems I feel are unlikely.

thanks, Wilko

On 19 Jun 2025, at 02:19, glenlist via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:

I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if  that was helpful...

On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote:
Hello Morris,

The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise).

The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL?  Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven.
In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know.

I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that.


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To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com


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Hi NTC thermistors have a wonderful parameter on their spec sheets known as beta. It drives a formula that computes resistance over temperature. Wikipedia “thermistor” and it will give you all the grubby math details. The problem is that beta is not a tightly controlled parameter. The fabrication process on a thermistor can only control it to a limited degree. The net result is that you can buy a thermistor that is very accurate at (or near) one temperature. When you get well away from that temperature the values of a group of parts diverge. The values on different groups diverge even further. Since these are precision matched parts, you can’t just replace one of them. You would have to replace the whole set. They also are not something you can buy on the open market. An OEM contracts with a thermistor outfit to buy a custom part. They then order them thousands at a time. They just might pay many thousands of dollars for each batch. There are alternative approaches, some manufacturers have a pretty large room full of “raw” thermistor material. They buy it in bulk and sort it. They then chop it up “as needed” and match the design parameters on the OCXO up with the material. This is more common with PTC than NTC materials. Simple debug answer in this case is to monitor the voltage at the junction of the thermistors and that resistor. See what it does as the unit heats up. For further fun, monitor the voltages across each thermistor as this happens. If you don’t see anything strange, move on to the other parts of the circuit. Bob > On Jun 19, 2025, at 3:51 AM, Wilko Bulte via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote: > > I would be interested in whatever resistance the thermistors measure at when cold. Just to get another data point. > > Thanks you Rick, for your comment on failure or drift being highly unlikely. The thermistors are mounted in the inner ring using some flexible (silicone?) compound, so mechanical stress induced problems I feel are unlikely. > > thanks, Wilko > >> On 19 Jun 2025, at 02:19, glenlist via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote: >> >> I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if that was helpful... >> >>> On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote: >>> Hello Morris, >>> >>> The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise). >>> >>> The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL? Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven. >>> In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know. >>> >>> I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that. >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com >> To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com > To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
WB
Wilko Bulte
Wed, Jun 25, 2025 2:25 PM

It appears I have swatted the bug/problem: the thermistor flex circuit proved to be intermittent. Some little hack later the oven seems to be doing its think like it should.

For more details, I have updated the webpage at https://people.freebsd.org/~wilko/HP-OCXO-E1938A/

Best,
Wilko

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Camp via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com
Sent: 19 June, 2025 14:16
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement time-nuts@lists.febo.com
Cc: Bob Camp kb8tq@n1k.org
Subject: [time-nuts] Re: repair of a HP E1938A OCXO

Hi

NTC thermistors have a wonderful parameter on their spec sheets known as beta.

It drives a formula that computes resistance over temperature. Wikipedia “thermistor” and it will give you all the grubby math details.

The problem is that beta is not a tightly controlled parameter. The fabrication process on a thermistor can only control it to a limited degree.

The net result is that you can buy a thermistor that is very accurate at (or near) one temperature. When you get well away from that temperature the values of a group of parts diverge. The values on different groups diverge even further.

Since these are precision matched parts, you can’t just replace one of them. You would have to replace the whole set. They also are not something you can buy on the open market. An OEM contracts with a thermistor outfit to buy a custom part. They then order them thousands at a time. They just might pay many thousands of dollars for each batch.

There are alternative approaches, some manufacturers have a pretty large room full of “raw” thermistor material. They buy it in bulk and sort it. They then chop it up “as needed” and match the design parameters on the OCXO up with the material. This is more common with PTC than NTC materials.

Simple debug answer in this case is to monitor the voltage at the junction of the thermistors and that resistor. See what it does as the unit heats up. For further fun, monitor the voltages across each thermistor as this happens. If you don’t see anything strange, move on to the other parts of the circuit.

Bob

On Jun 19, 2025, at 3:51 AM, Wilko Bulte via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:

I would be interested in whatever resistance the thermistors measure at when cold. Just to get another data point.

Thanks you Rick, for your comment on failure or drift being highly unlikely. The thermistors are mounted in the inner ring using some flexible (silicone?) compound, so mechanical stress induced problems I feel are unlikely.

thanks, Wilko

On 19 Jun 2025, at 02:19, glenlist via time-nuts time-nuts@lists.febo.com wrote:

I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if  that was helpful...

On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote:
Hello Morris,

The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise).

The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL?  Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven.
In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know.

I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that.


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com To unsubscribe
send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com


time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com To unsubscribe send
an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com


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It appears I have swatted the bug/problem: the thermistor flex circuit proved to be intermittent. Some little hack later the oven seems to be doing its think like it should. For more details, I have updated the webpage at https://people.freebsd.org/~wilko/HP-OCXO-E1938A/ Best, Wilko -----Original Message----- From: Bob Camp via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> Sent: 19 June, 2025 14:16 To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> Cc: Bob Camp <kb8tq@n1k.org> Subject: [time-nuts] Re: repair of a HP E1938A OCXO Hi NTC thermistors have a wonderful parameter on their spec sheets known as beta. It drives a formula that computes resistance over temperature. Wikipedia “thermistor” and it will give you all the grubby math details. The problem is that beta is not a tightly controlled parameter. The fabrication process on a thermistor can only control it to a limited degree. The net result is that you can buy a thermistor that is very accurate at (or near) one temperature. When you get well away from that temperature the values of a group of parts diverge. The values on different groups diverge even further. Since these are precision matched parts, you can’t just replace one of them. You would have to replace the whole set. They also are not something you can buy on the open market. An OEM contracts with a thermistor outfit to buy a custom part. They then order them thousands at a time. They just might pay many thousands of dollars for each batch. There are alternative approaches, some manufacturers have a pretty large room full of “raw” thermistor material. They buy it in bulk and sort it. They then chop it up “as needed” and match the design parameters on the OCXO up with the material. This is more common with PTC than NTC materials. Simple debug answer in this case is to monitor the voltage at the junction of the thermistors and that resistor. See what it does as the unit heats up. For further fun, monitor the voltages across each thermistor as this happens. If you don’t see anything strange, move on to the other parts of the circuit. Bob > On Jun 19, 2025, at 3:51 AM, Wilko Bulte via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote: > > I would be interested in whatever resistance the thermistors measure at when cold. Just to get another data point. > > Thanks you Rick, for your comment on failure or drift being highly unlikely. The thermistors are mounted in the inner ring using some flexible (silicone?) compound, so mechanical stress induced problems I feel are unlikely. > > thanks, Wilko > >> On 19 Jun 2025, at 02:19, glenlist via time-nuts <time-nuts@lists.febo.com> wrote: >> >> I have 6 of these beasts, I could measure something for you if that was helpful... >> >>> On 18/06/2025 9:26 pm, wkb--- via time-nuts wrote: >>> Hello Morris, >>> >>> The idea to tack a resistor across the 3 thermistors is an interesting one. I will give that a try, once the attic is habitable again (temperature wise). >>> >>> The upper resistor I think is R35 in the schematic, marked 1% BULK METAIL FOIL? Problem is I do not have a component layout of the donut shaped PCB in the oven. >>> In case someone on the list has that component layout, please let me know. >>> >>> I would also be interested in the value of the resistors at room temperature, in case anyone has a dead oven and can measure them I would appreciate that. >>> >> _______________________________________________ >> time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com To unsubscribe >> send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com > _______________________________________________ > time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com To unsubscribe send > an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com _______________________________________________ time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@lists.febo.com To unsubscribe send an email to time-nuts-leave@lists.febo.com
V
vilgotch1@gmail.com
Thu, Jun 26, 2025 10:02 AM

Hi Wilko,

That is wonderful news about finding the fault. You are a better man than me!

The unit I am using now has slightly mismatched temperatures on the oven and motherboard but it’s working properly in the Z3815A. The EFC is clearly taking care of the difference. It would be nice to correct the appropriate parameter in the PIC and I look forward to seeing of you can manage it. Obviously one way might be to alter the parameter one unit at a time and see what effect it has on temperature but you will need an accurate thermometer.

Regards,

Morris

Hi Wilko, That is wonderful news about finding the fault. You are a better man than me! The unit I am using now has slightly mismatched temperatures on the oven and motherboard but it’s working properly in the Z3815A. The EFC is clearly taking care of the difference. It would be nice to correct the appropriate parameter in the PIC and I look forward to seeing of you can manage it. Obviously one way might be to alter the parameter one unit at a time and see what effect it has on temperature but you will need an accurate thermometer. Regards, Morris