> So, Bryan, is there any synopsis you could post to the list, or was everything already posted? Very good point. Here it is : Bryan ----- Good sources are: www.superbrightleds.com www.bebi-electronics.com ledlight.com ---- OK, very simple fix. Just buy 3 more and wire them all in series. You will get 4 time the light for the same current draw. ---- In the equation for ohms law... if 3 volts is what you require, 4 bulbs in series equals 12 volts. Voltage drop from 4 bulbs in series is 12 volts. ---- You might check to see what voltage the batteries produce. If it has an AC charger or optional 110 volt power source, it's probably using 12 volts with a voltage reducer in line to feed only 3 volts to the lights themselves. I found this to be more or less the case with fluorescent fixtures I've put in the engine room that I found at Home Depot. Simply found the right wires and wired it into the 12 volt system to eliminate the 8 batteries. These particular lights had an optional 110 volt power source. I think you'll find many LED fixtures that are actually running with a 12 volt power source (even though it's using only 3 volts), so it would be a simple matter to wire directly into your 12 volt system. ---- There are many resistor value calculators out there on the web for single and multiple LED configurations. Here's just of many, give it a try. http://www.quickar.com/noqbestledcalc.htm ---- We have found the LEDs very expensive and the light too "blue". I have a mix of LED and halogen and incandescent bulbs on board. You might want to look at the "RV" bulbs from Lowes/HomeDepot - they come 25,50 and 75 watt, run on 12 volt and you can wire a standard household light fixture to put the bulb into. ---- You could consider fluorescent lighting but you may or may not realize any savings in battery load. I replaced the 10 or 20 watt (can't remember if there was one or two lamps) incandescent light over the galley sink with a Thin-Lite 30 watt fluorescent light. I also replaced some 50 watt incandescent lights with a Thin-Lite 13 watt type PL wall mount fluorescent. The incandescent light draws 4.1 amps and the fluorescent draws 1.1 amps. I liked these lights so much I put them in the engine room. I have had fluorescent lighting in the boat for several years and have been very happy with the results. I tried an LED fixture over the galley but was highly disappointed. Of course, LED lighting probably has improved some since then. ---- You get more efficient if you wire multiple leds in series and use a resistor to drop only the last bit of remaining voltage. I am pretty sure there is no such thing as a 12V LED. What you usually see is somebody else taking care of wiring things in series and packaging the resistor for you. LEDs are non-linear and don't like voltage spikes. Battery voltages fluctuate a lot. When I replaced my 4 20W engine room lights with 16 1W led lights, I decided to use a computer car DC-DC power supply/charger to regulate the voltage and provide protection against ignition surges and any other electrical issues. These are fairly cheap on ebay and I got two, one active and a spare. These can be high wattage, so one of them can drive a lot of LEDs. Since the one I used puts out 15V DC I was able to get 4 LEDs in series with a 12 ohm resistor for a 300ma current draw in each string. I have not measured it, but estimate that the total wattage is around 23W taking into account the resistor losses and 80% DC-DC conversion efficiency. Each LED is in its own fixture and the 16 lights are scattered all over the place. I can easily read by this lighting with the hatches closed and every corner is illuminted. Just read recently that one advantage of LEDs is that unlike incandescents, they do not attract bugs. Sounds like this could be a very useful characteristic for use on the outside of the boat.