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Storm plates

BA
Bob Austin
Mon, Jan 24, 2005 4:10 AM

The other problem we all face is when do you put on storm shutters?  At the first of a voyage, or when a storm is building?  Same as the sea anchor--when do you put on the plates--and maybe then it is too late to do it safely.

I was going over the pictures of damage during Ivan today.  Although there were some broken windows on boats., they all were from pilings, flying debris or striking some object. On the Camano Troll, the safet glass windows were deformed, as were the frames, and fiberglass cracked, but the side of the cabin was not seriously breeched.

On the other hand on our street the houses on the bay, had not only windows broken, but bricks and entire walls demonished by the force of the water constantly hitting.  In many cases the water alone may not have broken down the windows or walls, but a piece of a pier caused the first break, then the water got in.  Steel gargage doors were bent like pretzels, once the water got inside of the houses.  Bottom line--probably a single wave which has broken on the boat, unless it is huge, unless a capsize, pitchpole or severe roll, will not break windows.  If possiable, put in adequate windows to start with.  I don't see many fishing boats with storm shutters.

Bob Austin.

The other problem we all face is when do you put on storm shutters? At the first of a voyage, or when a storm is building? Same as the sea anchor--when do you put on the plates--and maybe then it is too late to do it safely. I was going over the pictures of damage during Ivan today. Although there were some broken windows on boats., they all were from pilings, flying debris or striking some object. On the Camano Troll, the safet glass windows were deformed, as were the frames, and fiberglass cracked, but the side of the cabin was not seriously breeched. On the other hand on our street the houses on the bay, had not only windows broken, but bricks and entire walls demonished by the force of the water constantly hitting. In many cases the water alone may not have broken down the windows or walls, but a piece of a pier caused the first break, then the water got in. Steel gargage doors were bent like pretzels, once the water got inside of the houses. Bottom line--probably a single wave which has broken on the boat, unless it is huge, unless a capsize, pitchpole or severe roll, will not break windows. If possiable, put in adequate windows to start with. I don't see many fishing boats with storm shutters. Bob Austin.
MS
Mike Schooley
Tue, Jan 25, 2005 3:14 PM

Bob Austin wrote, "The other problem we all face is when do you put on storm
shutters?  At the first of a voyage, or when a storm is building?  Same as
the sea anchor--when do you put on the plates--and maybe then it is too late
to do it safely."

I heartily agree. If it requires a significant effort to install the
shutters, human tendency is to put it off until it is unsafe. The storage
space for the storm plates is also a problem. For Portager, plan A is to
make the windows strong enough that I don't need shutters. The main question
is how strong is strong enough and can the stability analysis afford that
much top side weight? I think the thickness requirement depends on the span
and the type of glass. I think multiple smaller windows will weigh less than
fewer larger ones.

It might be informative to find out what type and thickness of glass the
fishing boats in the PNW use.

Regarding sea anchors, I favor giving the vessel more directional stability,
as Michael Kasten suggests at  http://www.kastenmarine.com/running.htm
http://www.kastenmarine.com/running.htm . I feel most production boats today
(and most people) have too much beam for their length. This limits their
directional stability and leads to breaching. A vessel with a higher length
to beam ratio will provide more directional stability and allow the operator
to differ deploying the sea anchor. The key is to have enough directional
stability to avoid needing the sea anchor, otherwise you are just delaying
it until it is really unsafe to deploy. Fortunately, Portager will have a
L/B of 4.5 to 5 so she should provide good directional stability.

This brings me to my question. I have read that semi-displacement hulls are
more prone to beaching while running due to the increased buoyancy in the
stern. It seams to me that this tendency could be mitigated by increasing
the L/B. Couldn't a semi-displacement hull be made as safe as a full
displacement hull provided the semi-displacement hull had a high enough L/B
to provide equivalent directional stability? Since the semi-displacement
hull can plane or surf in running seas wouldn't it actually be less likely
to be pooped?

Regards;

Mike Schooley

Designing "Portager" a transportable Passagemaker

Bob Austin wrote, "The other problem we all face is when do you put on storm shutters? At the first of a voyage, or when a storm is building? Same as the sea anchor--when do you put on the plates--and maybe then it is too late to do it safely." I heartily agree. If it requires a significant effort to install the shutters, human tendency is to put it off until it is unsafe. The storage space for the storm plates is also a problem. For Portager, plan A is to make the windows strong enough that I don't need shutters. The main question is how strong is strong enough and can the stability analysis afford that much top side weight? I think the thickness requirement depends on the span and the type of glass. I think multiple smaller windows will weigh less than fewer larger ones. It might be informative to find out what type and thickness of glass the fishing boats in the PNW use. Regarding sea anchors, I favor giving the vessel more directional stability, as Michael Kasten suggests at <http://www.kastenmarine.com/running.htm> http://www.kastenmarine.com/running.htm . I feel most production boats today (and most people) have too much beam for their length. This limits their directional stability and leads to breaching. A vessel with a higher length to beam ratio will provide more directional stability and allow the operator to differ deploying the sea anchor. The key is to have enough directional stability to avoid needing the sea anchor, otherwise you are just delaying it until it is really unsafe to deploy. Fortunately, Portager will have a L/B of 4.5 to 5 so she should provide good directional stability. This brings me to my question. I have read that semi-displacement hulls are more prone to beaching while running due to the increased buoyancy in the stern. It seams to me that this tendency could be mitigated by increasing the L/B. Couldn't a semi-displacement hull be made as safe as a full displacement hull provided the semi-displacement hull had a high enough L/B to provide equivalent directional stability? Since the semi-displacement hull can plane or surf in running seas wouldn't it actually be less likely to be pooped? Regards; Mike Schooley Designing "Portager" a transportable Passagemaker
CI
CFE Inc.
Tue, Jan 25, 2005 5:24 PM

----- Original Message -----

It might be informative to find out what type and thickness of glass the
fishing boats in the PNW use.

On Invader the glass is 3/8 safety. Largest piece being 40 inch x  20 inch
rough dims on the sides of the wheel house. The front is three 20 inch by 20
inch rough dims. There were no storm shutters fitted for the vessel. Framing
fitted on  5 1/2 inch by 3 inch yellow cedar.

I do see storm shutters on fishing vessels up here, only a few? Seem to be
on vessels with the upright or non sloping windows ( conventional west coast
wheelhouse). I also have a friend that fished a 44 foot trawler. He had his
front windows taken out by breaking waves off the Columbia River. Left glass
shards stuck to the back cabin walls. He never installed or had made up
storm shutters after. He just never went back to the Columbia River area.
Vessel name "Princess Pat" out of Maple Bay.

Willy
Invader No1
39 Kishi Conversion

----- Original Message ----- >It might be informative to find out what type and thickness of glass the >fishing boats in the PNW use. On Invader the glass is 3/8 safety. Largest piece being 40 inch x 20 inch rough dims on the sides of the wheel house. The front is three 20 inch by 20 inch rough dims. There were no storm shutters fitted for the vessel. Framing fitted on 5 1/2 inch by 3 inch yellow cedar. I do see storm shutters on fishing vessels up here, only a few? Seem to be on vessels with the upright or non sloping windows ( conventional west coast wheelhouse). I also have a friend that fished a 44 foot trawler. He had his front windows taken out by breaking waves off the Columbia River. Left glass shards stuck to the back cabin walls. He never installed or had made up storm shutters after. He just never went back to the Columbia River area. Vessel name "Princess Pat" out of Maple Bay. Willy Invader No1 39 Kishi Conversion
MS
Mike Schooley
Thu, Feb 3, 2005 6:03 AM

I reviewed the Dashew's Galzing decision
http://www.setsail.com/dashew/glazing_decision.html .

They say, "When we look at the window system we do not want to have to
consider putting on storm shutters in heavy weather. It has always been our
practice to make the glazing itself heavy enough so storm shutters are not
required."

They also point out that, "Lloyds is more conservative than ABS". The ABS
requirement is about 9.71mm (3/8") in front and 6.5mm (1/4") on the sides,
while Lloyds calls for 15mm (5/8") on the front and 9mm (3/8") toughened
(tempered) safety glass assuming storm shutters. So they decided to use 19mm
toughened safety glass all around, but they also plan to carry storm
shutters just encase.

Although I agree with the Dashew's approach and I'd prefer to keep the storm
shutters stowed, I question the affordability of their approach. I'm going
to have to do some price comparisons and see what the cost difference is
between the ABS requirements and the Dashew requirements.

Regards;
Mike Schooley
Designing "Portager" a transportable Passagemaker

I reviewed the Dashew's Galzing decision http://www.setsail.com/dashew/glazing_decision.html . They say, "When we look at the window system we do not want to have to consider putting on storm shutters in heavy weather. It has always been our practice to make the glazing itself heavy enough so storm shutters are not required." They also point out that, "Lloyds is more conservative than ABS". The ABS requirement is about 9.71mm (3/8") in front and 6.5mm (1/4") on the sides, while Lloyds calls for 15mm (5/8") on the front and 9mm (3/8") toughened (tempered) safety glass assuming storm shutters. So they decided to use 19mm toughened safety glass all around, but they also plan to carry storm shutters just encase. Although I agree with the Dashew's approach and I'd prefer to keep the storm shutters stowed, I question the affordability of their approach. I'm going to have to do some price comparisons and see what the cost difference is between the ABS requirements and the Dashew requirements. Regards; Mike Schooley Designing "Portager" a transportable Passagemaker
RR
Ron Rogers
Thu, Feb 3, 2005 5:37 PM

I have to face window replacement and possible creation of a door on the
side of the helm station. I too read their article. I know that I will not
be in the Southern Ocean, but I do want to do Nova Scotia and ICW runners
have to consider a future with more "outside" legs. A former Willard manager
gave me the name of an outfit in Oregon and I am going to consult with
Diamond-SeaGlaze as well. Their standard, commercial frames look good and
it's just a question of thickness and tempered versus laminated safety
glass. Tinting is an issue as well.

Ron Rogers
Willard 40 AIRBORNE
Atlantic Yacht Basin

----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Schooley" schooley@keyway.net

I reviewed the Dashew's Galzing decision
http://www.setsail.com/dashew/glazing_decision.html .

I have to face window replacement and possible creation of a door on the side of the helm station. I too read their article. I know that I will not be in the Southern Ocean, but I do want to do Nova Scotia and ICW runners have to consider a future with more "outside" legs. A former Willard manager gave me the name of an outfit in Oregon and I am going to consult with Diamond-SeaGlaze as well. Their standard, commercial frames look good and it's just a question of thickness and tempered versus laminated safety glass. Tinting is an issue as well. Ron Rogers Willard 40 AIRBORNE Atlantic Yacht Basin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Schooley" <schooley@keyway.net> I reviewed the Dashew's Galzing decision http://www.setsail.com/dashew/glazing_decision.html .