Reading through the archives, I saw that there was some discussion about a safer alternative to cadmium-based solder. The low tin, high lead alloy was recommended as a good low-thermal EMF substitute. However, I did not see any recommendations on where to buy some of this. I just did some searching and all I come up with is bar solder, mostly from China. Where can I buy a small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 solder? Mouser, which is my preferred vendor certainly didn't list any. I would think that even 1/2 pound would last me a lifetime. Joe Gray W5JG

Hi Joe, What are you looking for, Cadmium-Solder, or Sn10Pb90, which is Stannum/Plumbum-only? And what do you what it for? In (very high) precision applications there are so many issues to consider that the solder doesn't appear to be at a high priority... Volker Am 12.08.2013 00:38, schrieb Joseph Gray: > Reading through the archives, I saw that there was some discussion about a > safer alternative to cadmium-based solder. The low tin, high lead alloy was > recommended as a good low-thermal EMF substitute. However, I did not see > any recommendations on where to buy some of this. > > I just did some searching and all I come up with is bar solder, mostly from > China. Where can I buy a small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 solder? Mouser, > which is my preferred vendor certainly didn't list any. I would think that > even 1/2 pound would last me a lifetime. > > Joe Gray > W5JG > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > >

sorry, spelling mistake: "What do you _want_ it for?" Remember, those solder alloys are optimized for a specific alloy combination only, e.g. Cu-Cu. Volker Am 12.08.2013 10:39, schrieb Volker Esper: > > Hi Joe, > > What are you looking for, Cadmium-Solder, or Sn10Pb90, which is > Stannum/Plumbum-only? > > And what do you what it for? In (very high) precision applications > there are so many issues to consider that the solder doesn't appear to > be at a high priority... > > Volker > > > Am 12.08.2013 00:38, schrieb Joseph Gray: >> Reading through the archives, I saw that there was some discussion >> about a >> safer alternative to cadmium-based solder. The low tin, high lead >> alloy was >> recommended as a good low-thermal EMF substitute. However, I did not see >> any recommendations on where to buy some of this. >> >> I just did some searching and all I come up with is bar solder, >> mostly from >> China. Where can I buy a small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 solder? >> Mouser, >> which is my preferred vendor certainly didn't list any. I would think >> that >> even 1/2 pound would last me a lifetime. >> >> Joe Gray >> W5JG >> _______________________________________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to >> https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> > > > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >

As I asked in my original message, I'm trying to find out where I can buy a small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 (tin/lead) solder. I don't want to buy it in bar form from China. Joe Gray W5JG On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 3:17 AM, Volker Esper <ailer2@t-online.de> wrote: > > sorry, spelling mistake: > "What do you _want_ it for?" > > Remember, those solder alloys are optimized for a specific alloy > combination only, e.g. Cu-Cu. > > Volker > > > Am 12.08.2013 10:39, schrieb Volker Esper: > > >> Hi Joe, >> >> What are you looking for, Cadmium-Solder, or Sn10Pb90, which is >> Stannum/Plumbum-only? >> >> And what do you what it for? In (very high) precision applications there >> are so many issues to consider that the solder doesn't appear to be at a >> high priority... >> >> Volker >> >> >> Am 12.08.2013 00:38, schrieb Joseph Gray: >> >>> Reading through the archives, I saw that there was some discussion about >>> a >>> safer alternative to cadmium-based solder. The low tin, high lead alloy >>> was >>> recommended as a good low-thermal EMF substitute. However, I did not see >>> any recommendations on where to buy some of this. >>> >>> I just did some searching and all I come up with is bar solder, mostly >>> from >>> China. Where can I buy a small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 solder? >>> Mouser, >>> which is my preferred vendor certainly didn't list any. I would think >>> that >>> even 1/2 pound would last me a lifetime. >>> >>> Joe Gray >>> W5JG >>> ______________________________**_________________ >>> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> >> >> ______________________________**_________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> > > ______________________________**_________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** > mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> > and follow the instructions there. > >

Sorry, Joe, if my question was mistakable. I wanted to know your application. Maybe I'd recommend not using a special solder alloy rather than going the long way of aquiring it. I give you an example: When fixing a 6.5 digit DMM (HP34401A) I wasn't sure if I might use a special alloy to solder the pins of an input relay. In the end I did not. Comparing this fixed unit to a second one in several automated 24 hours tests with varying room temperatures, there seem to be no measurable differences between the two. So in this case it appears to be of no great importance using a special solder. Enthough the thermoelectric voltages at these pins are not negligible and therefore have to be considered, other effects obviously are of much more effect. So, as I mentioned, using a special soldering alloy drops in the priority list. Now, that I'm curious, please let us know, what you are using the solder for. Volker DF9PL Am 12.08.2013 15:06, schrieb Joseph Gray: > As I asked in my original message, I'm trying to find out where I can buy a > small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 (tin/lead) solder. I don't want to buy > it in bar form from China. > > Joe Gray > W5JG > > > > On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 3:17 AM, Volker Esper<ailer2@t-online.de> wrote: > > >> sorry, spelling mistake: >> "What do you _want_ it for?" >> >> Remember, those solder alloys are optimized for a specific alloy >> combination only, e.g. Cu-Cu. >> >> Volker >> >> >> Am 12.08.2013 10:39, schrieb Volker Esper: >> >> >> >>> Hi Joe, >>> >>> What are you looking for, Cadmium-Solder, or Sn10Pb90, which is >>> Stannum/Plumbum-only? >>> >>> And what do you what it for? In (very high) precision applications there >>> are so many issues to consider that the solder doesn't appear to be at a >>> high priority... >>> >>> Volker >>> >>> >>> Am 12.08.2013 00:38, schrieb Joseph Gray: >>> >>> >>>> Reading through the archives, I saw that there was some discussion about >>>> a >>>> safer alternative to cadmium-based solder. The low tin, high lead alloy >>>> was >>>> recommended as a good low-thermal EMF substitute. However, I did not see >>>> any recommendations on where to buy some of this. >>>> >>>> I just did some searching and all I come up with is bar solder, mostly >>>> from >>>> China. Where can I buy a small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 solder? >>>> Mouser, >>>> which is my preferred vendor certainly didn't list any. I would think >>>> that >>>> even 1/2 pound would last me a lifetime. >>>> >>>> Joe Gray >>>> W5JG >>>> ______________________________**_________________ >>>> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >>>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >>>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> ______________________________**_________________ >>> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> >>> >> ______________________________**_________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > > >

Volker, I came across a couple of old Fluke differential voltmeters that need some work. I thought it would be best to use low thermal EMF solder on these. Joe Gray W5JG On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 10:39 AM, Volker Esper <ailer2@t-online.de> wrote: > > Sorry, Joe, if my question was mistakable. I wanted to know your > application. Maybe I'd recommend not using a special solder alloy rather > than going the long way of aquiring it. > > I give you an example: When fixing a 6.5 digit DMM (HP34401A) I wasn't > sure if I might use a special alloy to solder the pins of an input relay. > In the end I did not. Comparing this fixed unit to a second one in several > automated 24 hours tests with varying room temperatures, there seem to be > no measurable differences between the two. So in this case it appears to be > of no great importance using a special solder. > > Enthough the thermoelectric voltages at these pins are not negligible and > therefore have to be considered, other effects obviously are of much more > effect. So, as I mentioned, using a special soldering alloy drops in the > priority list. > > Now, that I'm curious, please let us know, what you are using the solder > for. > > Volker > DF9PL > > > Am 12.08.2013 15:06, schrieb Joseph Gray: > >> As I asked in my original message, I'm trying to find out where I can buy >> a >> small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 (tin/lead) solder. I don't want to buy >> it in bar form from China. >> >> Joe Gray >> W5JG >> >> >> >> On Mon, Aug 12, 2013 at 3:17 AM, Volker Esper<ailer2@t-online.de> wrote: >> >> >> >>> sorry, spelling mistake: >>> "What do you _want_ it for?" >>> >>> Remember, those solder alloys are optimized for a specific alloy >>> combination only, e.g. Cu-Cu. >>> >>> Volker >>> >>> >>> Am 12.08.2013 10:39, schrieb Volker Esper: >>> >>> >>> >>> >>>> Hi Joe, >>>> >>>> What are you looking for, Cadmium-Solder, or Sn10Pb90, which is >>>> Stannum/Plumbum-only? >>>> >>>> And what do you what it for? In (very high) precision applications there >>>> are so many issues to consider that the solder doesn't appear to be at a >>>> high priority... >>>> >>>> Volker >>>> >>>> >>>> Am 12.08.2013 00:38, schrieb Joseph Gray: >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>>> Reading through the archives, I saw that there was some discussion >>>>> about >>>>> a >>>>> safer alternative to cadmium-based solder. The low tin, high lead alloy >>>>> was >>>>> recommended as a good low-thermal EMF substitute. However, I did not >>>>> see >>>>> any recommendations on where to buy some of this. >>>>> >>>>> I just did some searching and all I come up with is bar solder, mostly >>>>> from >>>>> China. Where can I buy a small quantity of rosin-core 10/90 solder? >>>>> Mouser, >>>>> which is my preferred vendor certainly didn't list any. I would think >>>>> that >>>>> even 1/2 pound would last me a lifetime. >>>>> >>>>> Joe Gray >>>>> W5JG >>>>> ______________________________****_________________ >>>>> >>>>> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >>>>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/****<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/**> >>>>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<htt**ps://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >>>>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >>>>> > >>>>> >>>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>>> >>>> ______________________________****_________________ >>>> >>>> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >>>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/****<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/**> >>>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<htt**ps://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >>>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >>>> > >>>> >>>> and follow the instructions there. >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> >>> ______________________________****_________________ >>> >>> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >>> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/****<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/**> >>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<htt**ps://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >>> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >>> > >>> >>> and follow the instructions there. >>> >>> >>> >>> >> ______________________________**_________________ >> volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com >> To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** >> mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> >> and follow the instructions there. >> >> >> >> > > > ______________________________**_________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/** > mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts<https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts> > and follow the instructions there. > >

Op 13-8-2013 20:16, Joseph Gray schreef: > I came across a couple of old Fluke differential voltmeters that need some > work. I thought it would be best to use low thermal EMF solder on these. > I think it would be best *not* to. As far as I know, Fluke never used any low thermal EMF solder on any of its equipment, even the very top-of-the-range stuff. I certainly never seen it mentioned in any service manual for e.g. the 720, 845, 750, 752. Rob.

I agree with Rob. I never heard about special solder from HP. Bear in mind, it's not the thermal voltage itself, that causes measurement error, it's the _difference_ between the two leads. It's much more important to keep associated plugs and solder joints at the same temperature! So if you solder the plus-joint with your own soldering wire, solder the minus-joint, too. That makes sure, thermal EMF will be the same at both joints and hence compensate one each other. As I mentioned before, I compared 24bit streams from two 34401A over many days. The DMMs were at their highest sensitivity, one of them was fixed by soldering an input relay with usual Sn60Pb40. The curves ran absolutely parallel when the room temp changed. If there had been an issue with the thermal EMF, the 6.5 digit DMM would have been able to measure those voltages with ease. So either the EMF difference isn't measurable (because temp at both relay pins change synchronously), or HP didn't use special solder. I wouldn't go the way of using special solder, except Fluke would recommend it explicitly. What about asking Fluke itself? Volker Am 13.08.2013 21:38, schrieb Rob Klein: > Op 13-8-2013 20:16, Joseph Gray schreef: >> I came across a couple of old Fluke differential voltmeters that need >> some >> work. I thought it would be best to use low thermal EMF solder on these. >> > I think it would be best *not* to. > > As far as I know, Fluke never used any low thermal EMF solder on any > of its equipment, even > the very top-of-the-range stuff. I certainly never seen it mentioned > in any service manual > for e.g. the 720, 845, 750, 752. > > > Rob. > _______________________________________________ > volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com > To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts > and follow the instructions there. > >