Greetings from Split, Croatia. After a wonderful couple days in Kotor, Montenegro, we headed north up the Adriatic Sea for Dubrovnik, Croatia. In addition to being the legendary "pearl of the Adriatic", the Dalmatian coast boasts some of the most beautiful beaches in Europe and more than 1,000 rustic islands. I don't know what it is but the air and light seem different here. In a week's time we enjoyed two good thunderstorms - the first rains we've experienced all summer long. We were berthed a few kilometers outside of Dubrovnik in one of the nicest marinas we've been in...and we weren't the only American flagged boat! ...warm fuzzy there. Once in Dubrovnik, we joined the locals and tourists at the massive Pile Gate, one of the two entrances to Stari Grad or Old Town. The marble-paved streets seem to glow from the late afternoon sun - that amazing light. Churches, ancient monuments and outdoor cafis sharing space beneath the centuries old city walls...cue...gasp. Croatia owes much of its cultural heritage to neighboring Italy; Venice especially left its mark over the centuries, mainly along the coast. The hinterlands, though, were always rugged Slav territory. One cab ride into town proved to be very enlightening. For the Croats the subject of the early 1990s war is never far from the surface. At our driver's suggestion he took us high above the old town to the surrounding cliffs (more gasp-worthy views) and showed us exactly from where the Serbs had senselessly lobbed their bombs into the ancient city. He pointed out the area where he and his family were holed up with 20 other people in a small flat in the walled city during that time. When the war started he said many Croatians moved into Dubrovnik because they believed the city's UNESCO World Heritage Site status made it immune to attacks. Not so... Instead, the world watched in horror as the Serbian, Bosnian and Montenegrin military units systematically bombed the city's treasured monuments for a year after Croatia declared independence. Zlatco's, our driver's personal story was moving and, at times difficult for him to recount, some tears and choking up here. He also pointed out a loosely fenced area on the hill side and valley where land minds still lie today. "Beware - Land Mines" signs have been removed as the authorities thought it "bad for tourism"...we didn't go near the fence, but noticed some cattle grazing. When we asked about them he explained it was one way to clear the mines but that's why beef was so expensive. In our short time in Croatia we have met many interesting & friendly Croatians...very refreshing. And, it goes without saying the numerous Italians that drift across the Adriatic...they lik-aa the women! And Slovenians, Bulgarians, Germans, French, etc. that come south... this place has been discovered as a summer playground. Moving north we landed on the island of Korcula - known for it laid-back Mediterranean lifestyle...peace and quiet - it's not! Especially at the dock...late afternoons were spent watching the small & large charter boats (mostly sail) flock to the dock, anchor, fend off other boats, finally tie up & party down...some clothed some not. Cheap entertainment. On our messy wet passage to Korcula we passed (& chatted on the radio) a 46' Nordhavn, 'Resolution'...sometimes these encounters in this part of the world seem too unreal. Korcula, a Venetian walled city with steep cobbled stone streets has its own St.Mark's square and nearby inviting beaches - otherwise, not much else - but that's the great appeal! Side note - A Cultural Exchange Moment: While tending to some mid-am boat chores I noticed that the young Slovenian fellas on the small sailboat next to us were playing some music (Rick James, James Brown etc.) rather loudly. Clearly aficionados of MY favorite genre of music...that'd be Funk aka Disco...I felt it only appropriate to offer the boys my "Fame and Fury of Pure Funk - Vol. 2 CD". Needless to say they were elated and popped it right in their cd player. This prompted an invitation to join them on board and share their vino at 10:30 am of which I graciously declined. But, I giggled the whole time 'You Sexy Thing' by Hot Chocolate filled the air and snickered at Captain Bligh's disdainful glances, when he grumbled about where they ever got "that" music :) Culinary Interest: Food & wine have been surprisingly good in Croatia. Especially the seafood and at reasonable prices. Since it's not on the euro, the dollar goes a lot further here although that will change as Croatia is expected to join the European Union in 2009. For all you winos out there...you know who you are...I saved an article review on Croatia last year that mentioned a Dalmatian-American named Mike Grgich. His name may look familiar. He immigrated to the US in 1958, settling into Napa Valley. He made the 1973 Chateau Montelena that famously outshone Burgundies at a Paris tasting, then founded Grgich Hills Cellar where he continues to produce top-rated red and white wines. In 1996 he revisited his Croatian homeland, re-adopted his Dalmatian name, Miljenko Grgic, and founded a winery called Vina Grgic, near Trstenik on the rocky Peljesac Peninsula. Semi retired he spends two months a year in Croatia producing wines we are drinking with great pleasure - Posip, a crisp, light fruity white and Plavac Mali, a dense chewy red. His Croatian labels are remarkably similar to his US produced wines. This leads me up to Split, Croatia where we've rendezvoused with friends Scott & Teri Strickland on their N47, 'Strickly for Fun', two days ago. Split is a large modern city that grew up around the palace that the Roman Emperor Diocletian built in the 3rd century AD. So much yet to explore...it took 3 hours to get through the cellar foundations. Tina & Braun Tina and Braun Jones Grey Pearl Nordhavn 62 Editor's note: Photos of Grey Pearl and her owners are posted at <http://radio.weblogs.com/0137829/2004/06/30.html>.