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Re: 3D Printing escapades

RW
Roger Whiteley
Tue, Aug 23, 2022 10:39 AM

I have found PETG is best printed with the hot-end around 245degC, and
no cooling.  But PETG seems to depend on manufacturer more than PLA,
that's probably just me.

If the filament is sticking to the nozzle, try giving it a good polish
with layers of paper towel to protect your digits.

I've switched all my printers to all metal Micro-Swiss hot ends -
because it makes print settings simpler - and they come with special
coated nozzles,  brass ones I have worn to oversize simply printing with
PLA [ok a LOT of PLA].  Temperatures need to go up for an all metal hot
end and the silicone sock helps to keep the heat where it belongs - lots
of people report jamming problems when their retraction settings are
wrong [pull back too far and too fast results in the filament pulling
back beyond the melting zone, then it won't extrude out again,  this
doesn't seem to happen with stock Creality hot ends because the melt
zone is not so well controlled].

I print on PEI or PEX [Wham Bam] plates, with a bed temperature of 70
degrees for PLA - the print surface is micro abraded so the filament
needs to stay above its glass transition temperature to stick.  I have
never used glass and stopped using painters tape when I put the Anet A8
in a box to move house, its still in the box.

Roger.

On 23/08/2022 08:30, discuss-request@lists.openscad.org wrote:

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Today's Topics:

 1. Re: Terminology (Bob Carlson)
 2. Re: 3D Printing escapades (joe a)
 3. Re: 3D Printing escapades (edmund ronald)
 4. Re: 3D Printing escapades (nop head)

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I have found PETG is best printed with the hot-end around 245degC, and no cooling.  But PETG seems to depend on manufacturer more than PLA, that's probably just me. If the filament is sticking to the nozzle, try giving it a good polish with layers of paper towel to protect your digits. I've switched all my printers to all metal Micro-Swiss hot ends - because it makes print settings simpler - and they come with special coated nozzles,  brass ones I have worn to oversize simply printing with PLA [ok a LOT of PLA].  Temperatures need to go up for an all metal hot end and the silicone sock helps to keep the heat where it belongs - lots of people report jamming problems when their retraction settings are wrong [pull back too far and too fast results in the filament pulling back beyond the melting zone, then it won't extrude out again,  this doesn't seem to happen with stock Creality hot ends because the melt zone is not so well controlled]. I print on PEI or PEX [Wham Bam] plates, with a bed temperature of 70 degrees for PLA - the print surface is micro abraded so the filament needs to stay above its glass transition temperature to stick.  I have never used glass and stopped using painters tape when I put the Anet A8 in a box to move house, its still in the box. Roger. On 23/08/2022 08:30, discuss-request@lists.openscad.org wrote: > Send Discuss mailing list submissions to > discuss@lists.openscad.org > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via email, send a message with subject or > body 'help' to > discuss-request@lists.openscad.org > > You can reach the person managing the list at > discuss-owner@lists.openscad.org > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of Discuss digest..." > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Re: Terminology (Bob Carlson) > 2. Re: 3D Printing escapades (joe a) > 3. Re: 3D Printing escapades (edmund ronald) > 4. Re: 3D Printing escapades (nop head) > > _______________________________________________ > Discuss mailing list -- discuss@lists.openscad.org > To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org