my 3458 was getting troubles with the calibration of the zero. As volts where no problem and ohm were pretty accurate, my conclusion was that there is basicly nothing wrong. the calibration stopped at the ohm-10. so it must be in the sense lines somewhere. on de dc print there where 2 big resistors (Dale ?) in the sense lines. with a magnifying glass i could spot litle cracks in the solder. after heating with some fresh solder the fault was over.
i have red several times that the standard resistor for ohms should be of a better type. In my 1998 production unit it is a vishay vhp101 40k. that must be one of the better ones that were made by vishay. in an older 1994 unit there was no brand or recognisable type code on it.
Regards
Frans
info@ElectronicsAndBooks.com
Netherlands
Discere ne cesses
Frans,
I had two 3458a fail that resistance cal. I eventually replaced the front /
rear switch. The easy way to test it is to measure the resistance with the
front panel jumpered and then short the internal black and white cables at
the A1 board and measure the difference. I also had one with a bad cable in
addition to the switch. The cables develop small breaks just behind the
crimps. Wiggling the cable showed how bad it was. Both were available for
order the last time I needed them.
Todd
On Wednesday, May 20, 2015, Electronics and Books via volt-nuts <
volt-nuts@febo.com> wrote:
my 3458 was getting troubles with the calibration of the zero. As volts
where no problem and ohm were pretty accurate, my conclusion was that there
is basicly nothing wrong. the calibration stopped at the ohm-10. so it must
be in the sense lines somewhere. on de dc print there where 2 big resistors
(Dale ?) in the sense lines. with a magnifying glass i could spot litle
cracks in the solder. after heating with some fresh solder the fault was
over.
i have red several times that the standard resistor for ohms should be of
a better type. In my 1998 production unit it is a vishay vhp101 40k. that
must be one of the better ones that were made by vishay. in an older 1994
unit there was no brand or recognisable type code on it.
Regards
Frans
info@ElectronicsAndBooks.com
Netherlands
Discere ne cesses
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I just read your post again and missed that you reflowed the solder joints.
I will have to stop reading posts with my phone.
Todd
On Wed, May 20, 2015 at 3:52 PM, Todd Micallef tmicallef@gmail.com wrote:
Frans,
I had two 3458a fail that resistance cal. I eventually replaced the
front / rear switch. The easy way to test it is to measure the resistance
with the front panel jumpered and then short the internal black and white
cables at the A1 board and measure the difference. I also had one with a
bad cable in addition to the switch. The cables develop small breaks just
behind the crimps. Wiggling the cable showed how bad it was. Both were
available for order the last time I needed them.
Todd
On Wednesday, May 20, 2015, Electronics and Books via volt-nuts <
volt-nuts@febo.com> wrote:
my 3458 was getting troubles with the calibration of the zero. As volts
where no problem and ohm were pretty accurate, my conclusion was that there
is basicly nothing wrong. the calibration stopped at the ohm-10. so it must
be in the sense lines somewhere. on de dc print there where 2 big resistors
(Dale ?) in the sense lines. with a magnifying glass i could spot litle
cracks in the solder. after heating with some fresh solder the fault was
over.
i have red several times that the standard resistor for ohms should be of
a better type. In my 1998 production unit it is a vishay vhp101 40k. that
must be one of the better ones that were made by vishay. in an older 1994
unit there was no brand or recognisable type code on it.
Regards
Frans
info@ElectronicsAndBooks.com
Netherlands
Discere ne cesses
volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts
and follow the instructions there.