Re: T&T: Port Runners
Snip:'... Anyone have experience with the West Marine Port Runner Folding
Bike they would care to share?..."
I think Joe has it right. You see a lot of these around the Loop. Those in
the north seem to be in pretty good shape but they don't last in the south.
Look for something with more aluminum parts or do what most of us have done
after the first bikes we threw away and get a throwaway at a big box store
that you are willing to use for a year or so and discard. My suggestion is
fewer bells and whistles the better. Our 21 speeds turned into 3 speeds in
six months. No amount of maintenance seems to help.
Michael & Jana La Porte
m/v SECOND STAR
36' Kadey Krogen #66
AGLCA #5157
MTOA # 3254
970-531-6453
LAS OLAS MARINA,FT. LAUDERDALE, FLORIDA
-----Original Message-----
From: trawlers-and-trawlering-bounces@lists.samurai.com
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Today's Topics:
- Paint and Dust (Kevin Kearney)
- Re: GPS software and USACE charts (Mark Doyle)
- Varnish Harding (Leonard Brunotte)
- Re: Varnish Harding (Rudy and Jill)
- Rich: Which Propane /Electric Refridgerator (Alan Shapiro)
- Re: Varnish Harding (Brent Hodges)
- Re: Varnish Hardening (SeaLubber7@aol.com)
- Re: boat shine/waxes (JHWardJr@aol.com)
- Re: Wind and rope stretch (lrzeitlin@aol.com)
- Re: Anchoring references (lrzeitlin@aol.com)
- household type box freezers (Larry Golkin)
- Dean's Yacht Services, Annapolis- Bad Customer Experience
(Mike Curreri) - Upholsterer in Stuart (dkatwdsd)
- seasonal weather buoys in Chesapeake Bay (LaL)
- Skype (R. A. McCall)
- Umpqua River regulated navigation area (LaL)
- Re: Skype (Steve Sipe)
- Re: Skype (Anthony Thorne)
- Mini white rollers for paint (Rudy and Jill)
- Re: Skype (Larry Cruzen)
- Port Runner Folding Bike (Jean & Michael)
- Re: Port Runner Folding Bike (Joseph Pica)
Message: 1
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 04:21:05 -0700 (PDT)
From: Kevin Kearney lotusman1951@yahoo.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Paint and Dust
Message-ID: 417812.64907.qm@web52902.mail.re2.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
With the discussion of roll and tip may I add that dust prevention/avoidence
in a busy yard is "important-wetting down/hosing down the surrounding as
well
as some signs in the car/truck travel lanes-SLOW PAINTING IN PROCESS .
Kevin/JOLIE
Message: 2
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 06:34:39 -0500
From: Mark Doyle mark@semi-local.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: GPS software and USACE charts
Message-ID: 76ADE2FB-C8B9-47E3-B0CA-0C3F395176CE@semi-local.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Rick,
Diana and I track about 24 e-charting applications for the Mac and PC. And
about 14 of these have real traction in the marketplace.
While most support the rasters, unfortunately, only five (actually 4!)
support
the standard-issue (S-57) government vectors:
For PC
- Rose Point Navigation Systems Coastal Explorer
- Maptech Chart Navigator Pro (rebranded version of CE) Now gone ...
- Fugawi Marine ENC
- NavSim BoatCruiser
For Mac
5. MacENC
Hope this helps!
Mark
www.managingthewaterway.com
Publishers of the Managing the Waterway Cruising Guide & Electronic Charting
Series
[clip]
Message: 16
Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 11:02:54 EDT
From: BareHill@aol.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: GPS software and USACE charts
Message-ID: 927f9.c6cb35e.38d0f79e@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Greetings,
Can anyone recommend Windows XP software that would work with Army Corps of
Engineers charts for the Tennesee-Tombigbee waterway? I used SeaClear II
and a USB GPS dongle when coming down the ICW and loved it. But the ACE
charts are in S-57 format, not readable by SeaClear II.
Thanks,
Rick Bolton
44' MT DC
[clip]
Message: 3
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 07:40:51 -0400
From: "Leonard Brunotte" lb@myguardian.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Varnish Harding
Message-ID: HCENKIKEPJFBPKJJAFDOGENKGJAA.lb@myguardian.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
We would appreciate any information on how to keep varnish from harding in
the can once opened.
Kindest regards,
Leonard Brunotte
Message: 4
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 05:11:12 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rudy and Jill rudysechez@yahoo.com
To: lb@myguardian.com
Cc: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Varnish Harding
Message-ID: 326591.11380.qm@web62207.mail.re1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
We would appreciate any information
on how to keep varnish from harding in
the can once opened.
The only way to do this is to eliminate air in the container. The only
method that I find that I'm willing to be bothered with is decanting the
varnish into a container that is small enough to eliminate the air gap at
the top of the container.
For example, if I buy a gallon of varnish and will not be using it within
that magical time frame it takes before it skins over, then I will also buy
quart cans and decant the varnish into these quart cans, filling each to the
top.
Although there are many suggestions available to reduce the skin that forms,
of the ones that I've tried, they, to me, have turned out to not be worth
the bother, or have not worked at well as was implied. So other than
decanting, I don't bother. I just open the can, break out the skin, stir if
necessary, strain the varnish into another container and hand it to Jill so
she can get the job done. (I do make her prep her own squeegee.)
By the way, if I borrow someones panty hose to strain the varnish, I do try
to clean them out before returning them. I've discovered that some girls get
downright pissy if you don't. Guys are even worse... go figure.
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
Message: 5
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:29:24 -0400
From: "Alan Shapiro" shapiro@sympatico.ca
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Rich: Which Propane /Electric Refridgerator
Message-ID: BLU0-SMTP426DD4EBFCE54EA0108239CF2C0@phx.gbl
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Hi Rich,
Which propane/refridgerator did you get and how do you like it? Do you also
have a separate p/e freezer?
Thanks
Alan Shapiro
Message: 6
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 07:29:43 -0500
From: "Brent Hodges" vbhodges@gmail.com
To: lb@myguardian.com
Cc: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Varnish Harding
Message-ID: 0D4EA0842D1440FAA55E051D062B8B51@desktop
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
We would appreciate any information
on how to keep varnish from harding in
the can once opened. (endsnip)
Another tip I've always used is to store the can upside down. No chance of
air seeping into (or out of) the can.
Brent Hodges
Message: 7
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:41:16 EDT
From: SeaLubber7@aol.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Varnish Hardening
Message-ID: 99744.7e058686.38d227ec@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
You can try pouring a little thinner on the top surface before closing the
can or take some Saran wrap and place it in the can onto the surface of the
varnish. That will keep the surface from oxidizing. When using it again,
discard the Saran wrap and use a new piece when you close it up. The Saran
wrap works good on ice cream also, to keep it from getting ice crystals on
it if it ever has a chance stay in your freezer that long.
To clean off the ICW mustache, we have always used "Sno-bowl" toilet bowl
cleaner. It's a mild acid, I think.
Ed Schwerin
Message: 8
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:53:49 EDT
From: JHWardJr@aol.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: boat shine/waxes
Message-ID: 626e8.2391de48.38d22add@aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I started this thread and glad I did - good info here. My boat is really
chalky and has had 25 years of uneven cleaning/maintenance. The hull is
not too bad, but the topside work we are doing is probably just delaying
the
inevitable paint job, on which I am dragging my feet due to
cost/results/effort/perceived durability/etc. FYI, our chosen products are
3M Liquid One
Step Fiberglass Restorer (the heavy oxidation version) and Collonite 885.
We're doing the best we can, but I will probably have to paint in the
future. I'll want it to be perfect and low cost and easy and last forever
not gonna happen! You know the drill - painting is the easy part -
removing/rebedding stanchions/hardware and fixing hairline cracks and
smoothing
repairs and taping and sanding prep balloons to a major effort.
So I am buying time. But it is so chalky now, I will be happy for a
while. Until I see another Present that is glossy and inevitably makes
mine
look 'driven hard and put up wet'. Jim
In a message dated 3/17/2010 12:00:22 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com writes:
One key is starting with a boat that has good gel coat. Believe me, I
know--a sailboat I had during my sailing years had terribly porous gel coat
and absolutely nothing would make it look good; in such cases it makes
little
sense to waste time, effort and money waxing--time to get moving and paint
the boat with LP paint!
Message: 9
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:09:10 -0400
From: lrzeitlin@aol.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Wind and rope stretch
Message-ID: 8CC93EA2AAF11D6-5D90-C3C1@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
In our discussion on anchoring, let's compare apples to apples, not
pears to kumquats. The usual figure of merit in anchoring in a given
type of bottom is the horizontal load that the anchor will withstand
before breaking free divided by the physical weight of the anchor. This
figure can then be compared to a weight resting on the surface that
would provide the equivalent horizontal holding force. Lightweight
anchors, the type most of us use are just that, relatively light shapes
that gain their holding power by digging into the bottom and using the
mass of mud or sand to add to their physical weight. Admittedly west
coast conditions differ from east coast conditions, deep water from
shallow water, rock bottoms from clay bottoms. Further the nature of
the rode affects the performance of the anchor. Transient forces of
wave and wind may momentarily exceed the holding power of the anchor.
An effective rode will spread those forces out in time to reduce to
forces below the anchor's horizontal holding power. This attenuation is
a function of the rode's elasticity gained either through stretch or
catenary forces. It is quite evident that a heavy all chain rode
permits a shorter scope than a rope, wire, or composite rode. But to
equal the elasticity of a nylon rode it would have to be too heavy for
most recreational boats to carry.
Wind drag on a boat is a function of the projected area at right angles
to the wind, the square of the wind speed, the density of the air, and
the dimensionless coefficient of drag which depends on the shape of the
boat. Drag coefficients have been determined from wind tunnel tests.
Some representative drag coefficients are:
Open parachute (or efficient spinnaker) = 2.0
Hollow hemisphere, concave to wind = 1.7
Flat rectangular plate = 1.28
Wires, cylinders, masts = 1.0
Cargo ship, wind dead ahead = .95
Fishing trawler, wind dead ahead = .9 to 1.05, depending on
superstructure, outriggers, etc.
Streamlined passenger vessel = .70
Recreational trawler = .70 to 1.0, depending on superstructure, masts,
outriggers, etc.
Sphere = .47
Hollow hemisphere, convex to wind = .38
Modern automobile = .26 to .35
Airplane = .09
Using Area in sq. ft., wind Velocity in knots, and the U.S. Standard
Atmosphere for air density, the equation for Drag in lbs. can be
written as:
Drag = .00339 x Coefficient of Drag x Knots^2 x Area
In a 20 kt. wind, a boat with an area of 100 sq. ft. at right angles to
the wind with a drag coefficient of 1.0 will have 135.6 lbs. of wind
pressure on its surface. A conservative way to estimate frontal area is
to multiply the beam by the height of the superstructure. An even
simpler way is to multiply the beam by 3/4 of the beam. By this
calculation, a Willard 30' trawler has about 100 sq. ft. of area. A
Nordhavn 40 has 160 sq. ft. of area. A Nordhavn 47 has about 195 sq.
ft. of area. A Nordhavn 72 has 330 sq.ft. of area.
The strain on the anchor rode in hurricane force winds is far greater
than most boaters imagine.
For each 100 sq. feet of area:
20 Kts = 136 Lbs.
40 Kts = 542 Lbs.
60 Kts = 1220 Lbs.
80 Kts = 2170 Lbs.
100 Kts = 3990 Lbs.
120 Kts = 4882 Lbs.
140 Kts = 6644 Lbs.
160 Kts = 8678 Lbs
180 Kts = 10984 Lbs.
The breaking strength of proof coil 5/16 chain is 7600 lbs., of 3/8
chain is 10,600 lbs.
The breaking strength of 1/2 nylon is 7500 lbs., of 5/8 nylon is 12,200
lbs., but nylon rodes should only be loaded to 1/2 breaking strength to
assure adequate stretch with a margin of safety. At first glance it
appears that a 3/8" chain, typical of many trawler yacht anchoring
rodes, would be sufficient to hold a boat with 200 sq. ft. of area in a
Category 2 hurricane but all is not what it seems. Long before the
chain broke, it would be stretched bar tight. Any transient forces of
waves or surge would be transferred directly to the anchor, which, in
all probability would be jerked out of the bottom. It is quite evident
that a heavy all chain rode permits a shorter scope than a rope, wire,
or composite rode. But to equal the elasticity of a nylon rode it would
have to be too heavy for most recreational boats to carry.
Stretch is the enemy in most tasks involving rope. This includes all
lifting and tying tasks. Also situations where the rope is to prevent
some structure from moving. Shrouds and stays on a mast come to mind.
But rope stretch is an asset in climbing and anchoring. The rock
climber wants a rope that will stretch if he/she falls to attenuate the
shock. Climbing ropes are specifically constructed with a woven
abrasion resistant outer sheath and an inner core of loosely laid
fibers, usually nylon, which can stretch up to 50% before breaking. In
a long fall, the stretch is so great that the rope is permanently
deformed and should not be used for climbing again.
Boat anchoring also profits by rope stretch. The elastic limit of new
laid nylon rope is about 25%. This means that it will stretch to 125%
of its original length and return to its original dimensions when the
load is removed. This will occur when the rope is loaded to about half
its breaking strength. Stretch it much further and the fibers will
permanently deform or break. Repeated stretching to this point will
permanently weaken nylon rope and it should be replaced as soon as
possible. Nylon loses about 20% of its ultimate strength when wet. But
wet nylon will handle transient shock loads even better than dry nylon.
The water acts as a lubricant, permitting fibers to slide over each
other and minimizing internal heating and friction.
It is important to remember that the safe working load of a rope is
dependent on its use, not its ultimate strength. The SWL is the
breaking strength of a rope divided by a safety factor, generally from
2 to 12, depending on use. Tasks that involve stretch or overhead loads
in working areas require the highest safety factors. A 3/8" nylon rope
with a breaking strength of 3000 lbs, used in an overhead lifting
situation, might have a SWL of 200 lb. Dacron rope, roughly equivalent
in breaking strength to nylon, might have a SWL of 600 lb. in the same
application because of its lower stretch. The safety factor is
generally determined by lawyers not engineers.
In anchoring situations, where we want stretch to the attenuate
transient shock of wind gusts and waves, a safety factor of 2 or 3
might be appropriate.
Larry Z
Message: 10
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 09:32:52 -0400
From: lrzeitlin@aol.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Anchoring references
Message-ID: 8CC93ED7A305F96-5D90-C9C5@webmail-d047.sysops.aol.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
In this discussion of anchors, rodes, ropes, etc. a number of
references have been made to prior research. I have posted the several
papers on Scribd. Here are the URLs.
The Richard Ogg pamphlet on lightweight (Danforth) anchors and related
redearch on anchor rodes can be found at:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/28358463/Anchors-and-Anchoring
The MIT study on preventing anchor rode failure is at:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/28502738/MIT-Preventing-Anchoring-Failure
My own analysis of anchor rodes is at:
http://www.scribd.com/doc/19983328/Anchor-Rodes-for-Heavy-Weather-Conditions
Larry Z
Message: 11
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:22:06 -0700
From: "Larry Golkin" larry@golkinlaw.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: household type box freezers
Message-ID: FBB02EA8ADDC49DE87426FCDBDE6C651@LarryPC
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Hey there Trawler Friends:
We want to have on our boat a 3.5 cf box freezer like the kind you can get
at
Home Depot for our upcoming 2-3 year cruise. I am having trouble finding
the
information I need to size the proper dedicated inverter. The model I am
looking at is a "energy saving device". I called the company (GE) and
nobody
could tell me what was on the rating plate.
I would appreciate any information.
Thanks.
Larry
"Abreojos"
Roughwater 41
Channel Islands, CA
Message: 12
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 10:17:07 -0400
From: "Mike Curreri" mike@curreri.net
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Dean's Yacht Services, Annapolis- Bad Customer
Experience
Message-ID: 000c01cac5dc$88700480$99500d80$@net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
In an effort to encourage good customer dealings, we on this list often
share our good vendor experiences, when appropriate. Unfortunately, there
are times when we need to also share bad experiences for the same purpose.
I had repair work done to fix the hour-meter on a nearly new center console
Nautica 13.5 wide-body by Dean's Yacht Service in Annapolis. When the boat
was returned, several of the electrical functions (previously working fine)
no longer worked at all. While at Washburn's Boat Yard for some
commissioning warranty work on Blue Grotto, I had them evaluate and fix the
dinghy problem, which involved tracing and diagnosing and fixing an
improperly installed electrical harness.
Though the Washburn's guys even got on the phone with Dean to explain that
the issue was the failure to properly reassemble the harness, Dean has
repeatedly refused to pay for the repair work needed to fix the problem.
The consequence was not being able to use the boat for a few months and a
$400+ bill from WBY to fix it. Of course, it has worked fine ever since the
WBY repair (just as well as it did before Dean worked on it). It is a
shame, as Jimmy Dean is a personable guy. He just would rather have his
$400 than have me as a customer.
YMMV, but I won't be going back.
Mike
Mike Curreri
Blue Grotto (Selene 5578)
GoogleVoice: 443.987.6724
Message: 13
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:16:17 -0400
From: "dkatwdsd" dkatwdsd@bellsouth.net
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Upholsterer in Stuart
Message-ID: C9353249F7074359903C2AF2DBAC4561@T3500
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
We had all our upholstery done for our boat at Covergirls Upholstery. We
were very pleased. They may be able to help you out.
279 Southeast Monterey Road, Stuart, FL
(772) 286-5776
Kris
Crinkum-Crankum
Palm City, FL
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:58:04 +0200
From: LaL lalicata@alum.rpi.edu
To: TrawlerList TrawlerList
trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: seasonal weather buoys in Chesapeake Bay
Message-ID: 14C53C0B-74DF-4795-8B21-1752AB5185F4@alum.rpi.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The US Coast Guard issued a news release stating that, on behalf of
the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA), it
recently set the seasonal weather buoys in Chesapeake Bay. The buoys
collect and report real-time environmental data, including wind
speed, temperature, and wave height. (3/16/10).
http://www.piersystem.com/go/doc/651/498815/
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature
which had a name of smime.p7s]
Message: 15
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:01:36 -0500
From: "R. A. McCall" mccallr@gmail.com
To: "Trawler & Trawling Lists"
trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Skype
Message-ID:
cde69a6f1003171101k11f181b0xcf4868ad45f7acd@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Is there anyone trawling out there that uses Skype besides myself???
If so, how do you use it? How well does it work for you?
--
Richard & Gisela McCall
Day Dreams - 43' Carver
AGLCA: 6248 (Life Member)
USPS: E230452
MMSI: 2DCE549F7AFFBFF
Skype: planecrafter76262
Message: 16
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 20:00:10 +0200
From: LaL lalicata@alum.rpi.edu
To: TrawlerList TrawlerList
trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Umpqua River regulated navigation area
Message-ID: 4D76DE55-EA0B-4BEB-BC84-BDB63A10EACB@alum.rpi.edu
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The US Coast Guard issued a news release stating that it is making a
modification to the upriver boundary of the regulated navigation area
(RNA) on the Umpqua River. By moving the boundary from aid number 8
to aid number 6, the modification will allow better usage of an
important recreational fishing site without adversely affecting
navigational safety. (3/16/10).
https://www.piersystem.com/go/doc/21/498707/
[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pkcs7-signature
which had a name of smime.p7s]
Message: 17
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 14:39:25 -0400
From: Steve Sipe scs_maerin@maerin.net
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Skype
Message-ID: 4BA121DD.6030507@maerin.net
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
On 3/17/2010 2:01 PM, R. A. McCall wrote:
Is there anyone trawling out there that uses Skype besides myself???
If so, how do you use it? How well does it work for you?
We use it occasionally. I use my Palm Centro (Verizon) with a
Cradlepoint router as my access point, and although it's promoted as
broadband, it isn't as fast as a "real" AP connection. We also use wifi
through the router when it's available, but the last year has seen
nearly all free or unsecured AP's dry up almost completely. If the
marina provides free internet, it can be good enough to use Skype with,
but IMO it has to be a pretty solid connection to stream video, and EVDO
doesn't cut it in that regard. I use one of our laptops with built-in
webcam plus a headset.
Since we rarely approach our airtime minutes allotment, it's easier just
to use the phone. We have friends in Canada we contact via Skype, but
usually not in video mode, too choppy. BTW, the EVDO seems to handle
audio only pretty well, no choppiness. Video is unusable in EVDO for all
intents.
I'd add that we DID use Skype in the Bahamas as our only link to home,
and we were able to find enough AP's to keep in touch. It's one thing to
be connected, and not too far off from connected is shackled. After the
initial withdrawal, it was actually refreshing to be unavailable. Isn't
that some of why we go? <G>
cheers!
Steve Sipe
Solo 4303 "Maerin"
Dinner Key Mooring Field
Message: 18
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:35:50 -0700
From: Anthony Thorne ajpenn42@gmail.com
To: "R. A. McCall" mccallr@gmail.com
Cc: Trawler & Trawling Lists
trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Skype
Message-ID:
ec8f340d1003171235o56d6ea5ft2dcf0906ec06bb42@mail.gmail.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Yes we use it a fair bit. Works well with Verizon mobile broadband USB thru
a cradlepoint. Video is fine. Quality has improved over the past 12 months.
Anthony
Carmen
Alameda
On Wed, Mar 17, 2010 at 11:01 AM, R. A. McCall mccallr@gmail.com wrote:
Is there anyone trawling out there that uses Skype besides myself???
If so, how do you use it? How well does it work for you?
--
Richard & Gisela McCall
Day Dreams - 43' Carver
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Skype: planecrafter76262
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Message: 19
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 12:58:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Rudy and Jill rudysechez@yahoo.com
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Mini white rollers for paint
Message-ID: 386633.63626.qm@web62208.mail.re1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Morning Ed, Let me interrupt your reading of 1421 for a moment to mention
this about those little white rollers that were mentioned in previous
posts... (Rich, I couldn't spell knockwurst, so I went with hot dog.) Some
places call them mini rollers, others mini foam rollers.
Lewis Marine (on-line or 800-432-2158) sells a brand, their part number-
fig. 4981, No. 4LL (for a 4 inch roller) that is promoted as solvent
resistant. I don't know what brand it is, but if you call Lewis they can
tell you then, if you need to, you can contact the manufacturer.
I've no idea if the brands sold by West Marine or your local helpful Ace or
Box stores are solvent resistant. If they can't tell you, Google their
brand's manufacturer and ask.
It may be that any of them will work for the small area that you said that
you needed to do, but some may disintegrate immediately if dipped in the
wrong stuff. That could be expensive, since you wouldn't necessarily know it
until that pricey paint is all mixed up and ready to be applied.
On the other hand, if you are going to stay with Rust-o-Leum, all you'd have
to do is just pour the paint back in the can and go get different roller
sleeves; not much loss there with that kind of paint.
Just one question, why brushes and rollers? Why not do what Jill does. She
just pours in on, squeegees it around, picks out the leaves and lets it dry.
On vertical surfaces, if the paint is spread along the top, she doesn't even
have to squeegee it much, gravity does most of the work.
Rudy
Briney Bug, Panama City, Fl
Message: 20
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 13:19:41 -0700 (PDT)
From: Larry Cruzen larrycruzen@yahoo.com
To: "R. A. McCall" mccallr@gmail.com, Trawler & Trawling Lists
trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Skype
Message-ID: 448581.69728.qm@web43404.mail.sp1.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
My wife uses Skype all the time to keep in contact with her family. It
seems to work fine. The quality of the video varies, mostly depending upon
the amount of lighting available. We have a Verizon aircard for internet
connection.
Larry Cruzen
"Lady Dottie"
42' Heritage East Sundeck
Currently at Fort Loudon Marina, TN
From: R. A. McCall mccallr@gmail.com
To: Trawler & Trawling Lists trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Sent: Wed, March 17, 2010 2:01:36 PM
Subject: T&T: Skype
Is there anyone trawling out there that uses Skype besides myself???
If so, how do you use it? How well does it work for you?
--
Richard & Gisela McCall
Day Dreams - 43' Carver
AGLCA: 6248 (Life Member)
USPS: E230452
MMSI: 2DCE549F7AFFBFF
Skype: planecrafter76262
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 20:21:26 -0700 (PDT)
From: Jean & Michael jdmw@sbcglobal.net
To: trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: T&T: Port Runner Folding Bike
Message-ID: 236947.68637.qm@web82308.mail.mud.yahoo.com
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Anyone have experience with the West Marine Port Runner Folding Bike they
would care to share?
Michael Wilkie
Dancin' Dolphin II
Willow Berm Marina, CA
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 22:43:00 -0500
From: "Joseph Pica" joseph.pica@gmail.com
To: "'Jean & Michael'" jdmw@sbcglobal.net,
trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Port Runner Folding Bike
Message-ID: C812A796EA774953B45CC1D0209B60B1@DJTQJ7C1
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Snip:'... Anyone have experience with the West Marine Port Runner Folding
Bike they would care to share?..."
Have two, used for two cruising seasons. Way overpriced for the quality. I
am very disappointed with them. While touted as marinize...they are rust
buckets. The folding action and corrosion stresses the gear change and
brake adjustment positions producing continual malfunctions. This after
regular applications of "corrosion block". Either step up to a truly
corrosion resistant bike or go super cheap throw away al la Walmart.
Joe
Carolyn Ann GH N-37
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End of Trawlers-and-Trawlering Digest, Vol 91, Issue 18