Heavy Weather tactics
"My current thinking is to buy both, perhaps experiment once with their use,
pack them away, and then work hard to ensure they are never used again."
REPLY: When we trained ourselves for our transatlantic trip way back in 1984
we thought the same way. It took over a week to learn the proper techniques
to deploy and retrieve the sea anchor. Our first try ended up with the boat
and us getting tangled up. Fortunately we were able to laugh that one off.
Subsequent tries became better and finally we perfected the technique. All this
in fairly good weather. The real test though was in poorer weather and seas.
When we passed that test we then repacked the anchor and secured it and then
hoped we would never need it again. In our case we never did use it
afterwards as King Neptune looked after us.
The drogues were easier to deploy but if I remember correctly it still took
a half dozen tries to perfect that technique.
I would agree with you that working hard to avoid using sea anchor/drogues
is the way to go but that includes perfecting a technique for you and your
boat. I really doubt that one try is all you would require. Regards. Leonard
Stern, INDIFFERENCE
Leonard said: The drogues were easier to deploy but if I remember
correctly it still took
a half dozen tries to perfect that technique.
Scott asks: Would you mind sharing some of the things you learned that
helped you perfect your technique? I'd be very interested to hear more
about this. Thanks!
Scott Bulger, Alanui, N40II, Seattle WA
It seems to me that the important thing in the use of a drogue or sea anchor
is not so much how to retrieve it as how to deploy it. There is lots of
time to retrieve it and at worst release it completely and pick it up with a
dinghy after the storm passes. The critical item is to be able to deploy it
in heavy weather and do it effectively - that is - on a proper length rode,
in the proper direction, and not get tangled up in it or risking life and
limb to deploy it.
The following is correspondence with Zack Smith of Paratech of a couple of
years ago.
John Harris
The following answers to your questions are for the basic use of a parachute
sea anchor: For more information on parachute anchors check out:
http://www.paraanchor.com/faq.zac.html Feel free to link this site to your
own.
-
How should it be attached to the vessel ? On the Nordhavn I'd attach the
para-anchor line to a cleat or sampson post near the bow. Typically, the
main line attached to the para-anchor is paid out through the port hawse
pipe and then cleated. A second, short line is ran through the starboard
hawse pipe and is attached to the anchor rode via a snatch block. The bridle
created by the two lines keep the bow of your vessel directly into the wind
and waves. Some captains prefer to use a chain bridle with a claw hook to
form their bridle. Still, others choose to attach the parachute anchor's
line off the ground anchor roller or pad eye located on the hull just below
the roller. The best approach is to use one that is familier or comfortable
for you. Remember, the main idea is to keep the bow of your boat pointed
into the waves. -
How long should the rode be ? I carry approximately 10-feet of rode for
every foot of boat to prepare for a worse case scenerio storm. Typically
I'll pay out about 1/3 of the rode in a strong gale and use approximately
1/2 my rode in a major storm. When in doubt deploy 50% of your line and feel
how your boat behaves. If it starts to jerk unnatrually, then you need to
pay out more rode. -
How large an anchor do you recommend for a vessel with a gross weight of
60,000 lbs An 18-foot Offshore Anchor. -
How large a float and weight should be added ? An A-2 polyform float is
49" in circumference and is perfect as a retrieval float for the
para-anchor. Don't worry about adding bulky chain or weight, Fiorentino's
offshore anchor is already weighted down with 8 oz. fabric, lines, weight
placement and hardware. -
How should it be launched ? First, deploy the floating recovery line with
your retrieval float off the windward side of your boat. Allow your vessel
to drift away from the recovery line until it's elongated. Second, drop the
rolled up parachute off the windward side of your boat. Third, cleat your
anchor rode so the para-anchor inflates immediately. Now pay out enough rode
so that your vessel rides smoothly. In calm weather the para-anchor should
be near your vessel. In storms, at least 50% of your line is deployed. -
Should any other items (such as a storm sail) be used to hold the vessel
stable ? I'd definately experiment with different sail plans to see if you
can stabilize your vessel in a storm. A stay sail off the main is a good
place to start or a reefed main to help point the bow into the waves. -
How and where should such an additional stabilizer be set ? I believe I
answered this question in question #6. But, it did make me think about your
paravane stabilizers. I've used outriggers on commercial fishing vessels to
stop uncomfortable rolls while anchored in a harbor. Outriggers on
commercial boats are basically the same as a paravane stabilizer. If
conditions were terrible enough you could experiment with the paravane
stabilizers to see if it adds additional vessel stability while the
para-anchor slows your drift. -
What are the roughest conditions that you have experienced with this kind
of arrangement ? In sea trials we've tested para-anchors in seas as big as
40'. Personaly, I've had more problems in sea conditions that had 16'
breakers with very short intervals between wave sets. Steep waves can make
the surface of the ocean look like it's boiling. Sometimes it's hard to tell
which direction waves are coming from. Once the para-anchor is set the boat
immediately slows down and starts to point its bow into the waves.
Everything for the moment is good. The big heavy boats like the Nordhavn
won't swing about as badly as light displacement vessels. With a vessel that
does bounce around at anchor, I position the rudder close to amidships or
slightly to windward. Additionaly, I'll use a storm sail to stabilize the
boat. With the Nordhavn the paravane stabilizers become an additional tool
to use in the unlikely event that you need them. -
Any other suggestions on proper use ? Chafe protection is good to use to
protect your anchor rode from unnecessary wear. Firehose, leather or
manufactured chafe guards all work well. When it comes time for para-anchor
retrieval, motor toward the retrieval float located at the end of your trip
line and collect the float with a boat hook. Just pull on the recovery line
and the chute closes like an unbrella as the anchor rises to the surface.
Helpful hint, deploy and retrieve your para-anchor from the same windward
side of your boat. So if you deployed off the port side you'll retrieve on
the port side. Please let me know if you have any further questions. You
have my permission to post the above questions on your site. Have a good
day, Zack Smith ----
Original Message ----- From: John PH To: Zack@ParaAnchor.com
<http://commcenter.attbi.com/wmc/v/wm
We also spoke with and bought a para anchor and a drogue from Zack
Smith having visited him in California for our Nordhavn 57, Goleen. I
have always had sailing boats before we purchased Goleen and we are
equipped with safety gear that would be more typical on a sailing
vessel than many power boats. Mike Maurice assisted us in buying the
right survival suits - we carry four. Our lifejackets are fitted with
in-built harnesses because one of the danger moments in a rough sea is
going on deck, in our case that is most likely to be the foredeck to
deploy the sea anchor or the boat deck if something needs attending to
up there. I would recommend having places to clip on in any exposed
deck - that includes the foredeck and the boat deck. We had an
unpleasant experience when our tender, a 12 ft rib with 50HP outboard,
came off its mountings on our way from Dana Point to the Panama Canal.
The first time was in relatively calm water. We got her back on and
then lashed her down. The second time was in the Gulf of Panama. We
had replaced the old fittings with much stronger ones but again she
broke lose in a Force 7 and Sonaia with two friends had a tough time
getting her under control. In Panama, we again repaired the
situation. The problem was the location of the stern eyes - there was
not sufficient angle. When we arrived at Port Stuart we had PAE
change the angle so we had a decent angle and we placed four
additional eyes, two each side, to strap her amidships. We use heavy
duty straps with ratchets so there is no way she will break lose
again.
Chris and Sonaia
On 4/7/07, John Harris JohnPH@comcast.net wrote:
It seems to me that the important thing in the use of a drogue or sea anchor
is not so much how to retrieve it as how to deploy it. There is lots of
time to retrieve it and at worst release it completely and pick it up with a
dinghy after the storm passes. The critical item is to be able to deploy it
in heavy weather and do it effectively - that is - on a proper length rode,
in the proper direction, and not get tangled up in it or risking life and
limb to deploy it.
The following is correspondence with Zack Smith of Paratech of a couple of
years ago.
John Harris
The following answers to your questions are for the basic use of a parachute
sea anchor: For more information on parachute anchors check out:
http://www.paraanchor.com/faq.zac.html Feel free to link this site to your
own.
-
How should it be attached to the vessel ? On the Nordhavn I'd attach the
para-anchor line to a cleat or sampson post near the bow. Typically, the
main line attached to the para-anchor is paid out through the port hawse
pipe and then cleated. A second, short line is ran through the starboard
hawse pipe and is attached to the anchor rode via a snatch block. The bridle
created by the two lines keep the bow of your vessel directly into the wind
and waves. Some captains prefer to use a chain bridle with a claw hook to
form their bridle. Still, others choose to attach the parachute anchor's
line off the ground anchor roller or pad eye located on the hull just below
the roller. The best approach is to use one that is familier or comfortable
for you. Remember, the main idea is to keep the bow of your boat pointed
into the waves. -
How long should the rode be ? I carry approximately 10-feet of rode for
every foot of boat to prepare for a worse case scenerio storm. Typically
I'll pay out about 1/3 of the rode in a strong gale and use approximately
1/2 my rode in a major storm. When in doubt deploy 50% of your line and feel
how your boat behaves. If it starts to jerk unnatrually, then you need to
pay out more rode. -
How large an anchor do you recommend for a vessel with a gross weight of
60,000 lbs An 18-foot Offshore Anchor. -
How large a float and weight should be added ? An A-2 polyform float is
49" in circumference and is perfect as a retrieval float for the
para-anchor. Don't worry about adding bulky chain or weight, Fiorentino's
offshore anchor is already weighted down with 8 oz. fabric, lines, weight
placement and hardware. -
How should it be launched ? First, deploy the floating recovery line with
your retrieval float off the windward side of your boat. Allow your vessel
to drift away from the recovery line until it's elongated. Second, drop the
rolled up parachute off the windward side of your boat. Third, cleat your
anchor rode so the para-anchor inflates immediately. Now pay out enough rode
so that your vessel rides smoothly. In calm weather the para-anchor should
be near your vessel. In storms, at least 50% of your line is deployed. -
Should any other items (such as a storm sail) be used to hold the vessel
stable ? I'd definately experiment with different sail plans to see if you
can stabilize your vessel in a storm. A stay sail off the main is a good
place to start or a reefed main to help point the bow into the waves. -
How and where should such an additional stabilizer be set ? I believe I
answered this question in question #6. But, it did make me think about your
paravane stabilizers. I've used outriggers on commercial fishing vessels to
stop uncomfortable rolls while anchored in a harbor. Outriggers on
commercial boats are basically the same as a paravane stabilizer. If
conditions were terrible enough you could experiment with the paravane
stabilizers to see if it adds additional vessel stability while the
para-anchor slows your drift. -
What are the roughest conditions that you have experienced with this kind
of arrangement ? In sea trials we've tested para-anchors in seas as big as
40'. Personaly, I've had more problems in sea conditions that had 16'
breakers with very short intervals between wave sets. Steep waves can make
the surface of the ocean look like it's boiling. Sometimes it's hard to tell
which direction waves are coming from. Once the para-anchor is set the boat
immediately slows down and starts to point its bow into the waves.
Everything for the moment is good. The big heavy boats like the Nordhavn
won't swing about as badly as light displacement vessels. With a vessel that
does bounce around at anchor, I position the rudder close to amidships or
slightly to windward. Additionaly, I'll use a storm sail to stabilize the
boat. With the Nordhavn the paravane stabilizers become an additional tool
to use in the unlikely event that you need them. -
Any other suggestions on proper use ? Chafe protection is good to use to
protect your anchor rode from unnecessary wear. Firehose, leather or
manufactured chafe guards all work well. When it comes time for para-anchor
retrieval, motor toward the retrieval float located at the end of your trip
line and collect the float with a boat hook. Just pull on the recovery line
and the chute closes like an unbrella as the anchor rises to the surface.
Helpful hint, deploy and retrieve your para-anchor from the same windward
side of your boat. So if you deployed off the port side you'll retrieve on
the port side. Please let me know if you have any further questions. You
have my permission to post the above questions on your site. Have a good
day, Zack Smith ----
Original Message ----- From: John PH To: Zack@ParaAnchor.com
<http://commcenter.attbi.com/wmc/v/wm
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In the USCG BOAT CREW Seamanship Manual COMDTINST M16114.5C "Train,
Maintain, Operate" Chapter 20 is the Heavy Weather Annex.
In there are definitions of all the terms that have been referred to in
recent emails on this subject. The definitions are clear as are the
descriptions of how a vessel might get into and out of a situation. Very
concise. One thing to note well, the USCG does NOT assume that their vessel
is able to continue with its mission and outlines systems to check and
procedures to follow if they get back to station after a rollover. As Bob
stated, a pitchpole is considered the worst possible circumstance. The
overall document cited above can be downloaded at:
http://tinyurl.com/3ct97o [Thank you Lee Licata.] It is 888 pages and
requires a broadband connection and a following wind. I have not examined
the other chapters.
Ron Rogers