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Cruising America's Great Loop and other inland routes

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Best Anchor

G
Ghechtman
Fri, Feb 15, 2013 8:53 PM

I will add to the "learn how to set" crowd here. The primary reason we go cruising is to anchor out, and have done so along most of the coastal USA, including SW Florida, the Keys and Islands. In SW Florida and the Pacific NW, we used to charter various Grand Banks "trawlers" and they all had CQRs on them. Never a problem, including during one memorable squall off Indian Key in the 10,000 Islands. If/when you go to the Bahamas, I'll bet you will notice that more than half the cruising sailboats there have CQRs. Anchoring is about 80% technique and 20% ground tackle and I am giving ground tackle a little too much credit.. if rode and anchor are sized right for the boat, regardless of design, that goes to 90% technique, 10% ground tackle design. So take some lessons as suggested, maybe pick up a copy of Earl Hinz' "Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" then practice, practice, practice.

I will add to the "learn how to set" crowd here. The primary reason we go cruising is to anchor out, and have done so along most of the coastal USA, including SW Florida, the Keys and Islands. In SW Florida and the Pacific NW, we used to charter various Grand Banks "trawlers" and they all had CQRs on them. Never a problem, including during one memorable squall off Indian Key in the 10,000 Islands. If/when you go to the Bahamas, I'll bet you will notice that more than half the cruising sailboats there have CQRs. Anchoring is about 80% technique and 20% ground tackle and I am giving ground tackle a little too much credit.. if rode and anchor are sized right for the boat, regardless of design, that goes to 90% technique, 10% ground tackle design. So take some lessons as suggested, maybe pick up a copy of Earl Hinz' "Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" then practice, practice, practice.
RY
Ralph Yost
Sun, Feb 17, 2013 2:32 AM

After reading most of these anchor posts, I am mostly in agreement with the
statements below. However, I do think the correct anchor design has a lot to
do with resisting the lateral (aftward direction) pull of the boat on the
anchor. After all, THAT is the primary goal.

Choose an anchor that has plenty of surface area that is PERPINDICULAR to
the direction of travel you want to resist. That is, you want an anchor with
a large flat face. Now modify that shape somewhat to account for the ability
to set and to accommodate pulling in contrary directions (sideways, 180 deg
shifts, etc).
For these reasons, I have always gravitated to a plow-type anchor, which
will dig in when rotated and turned and has a good deal of surface area
facing the boat.
That said, we bought a trawler in 2007 with a SuperMax anchor on it. I
didn't choose this anchor, which I think is important to understand the
context of my comments.
But after using this anchor for 7 years, and after carefully observing its
design, I can see where it meets all of the requirements I stated above and
more. It sets easily, has incredible pull resistance, and it usually buried
deeply when retrieved.
Finally, I add technique, or "learn how to set" as stated below.
I am a firm believer of putting out more chain than you anticipate needing
for the conditions you are anchoring in that night. You definitely WANT to
overdo it. After all, you already bought the chain, its there, and does you
no good in your boat when you go to sleep that night.
Consider that 100 ft of 3/8" chain weighs about 150 lbs. Add that to my 65
lb anchor and I have deployed over 200 lbs of weight, much of which can be
buried into the ground.
Finally,  after deploying 7:1 scope with 3/8 chain, a gentle pull on the
anchor will pull it down and into the mud (backing in reverse but at idle).
Connect your rope snubber. Then slowly increasing the RPM to 1100 RPM for
single screw boat will deeply bury the anchor. If it does not hold at 1100
RPM, then it it the BOTTOM that is not holding and you must either retrieve
and reset, or, go to another anchorage to seek a different bottom.
I am a nervous nelly about boating. I need to have ASSURANCE when I leave
the boat or go to sleep. I get it with this anchor and technique. I have
never heard of a complaint from a Supermax user or an anchor drag from a
SuperMax user.
Finally finally, buy the biggest honkin' anchor your bowsprit and windlass
will handle. Bigger and heavier are always better, and it's the electricity
that is doing the work of deploying and retrieving it, not you.

I have been accused of "overdoing it" with my anchoring technique. But
honestly, who would you rather have upwind of you in a strong wind.....me,
or someone else? I prefer to overdo it rather than underdo it.
R.

-----Original Message-----
From: Great-Loop [mailto:great-loop-bounces@lists.trawlering.com] On Behalf
Of Ghechtman
I will add to the "learn how to set" crowd here. The primary reason we go
cruising is to anchor out, and have done so along most of the coastal USA,
including SW Florida, the Keys and Islands. In SW Florida and the Pacific
NW, we used to charter various Grand Banks "trawlers" and they all had CQRs
on them. Never a problem, including during one memorable squall off Indian
Key in the 10,000 Islands. If/when you go to the Bahamas, I'll bet you will
notice that more than half the cruising sailboats there have CQRs. Anchoring
is about 80% technique and 20% ground tackle and I am giving ground tackle a
little too much credit.. if rode and anchor are sized right for the boat,
regardless of design, that goes to 90% technique, 10% ground tackle design.
So take some lessons as suggested, maybe pick up a copy of Earl Hinz'
"Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" then practice, practice, practice.

After reading most of these anchor posts, I am mostly in agreement with the statements below. However, I do think the correct anchor design has a lot to do with resisting the lateral (aftward direction) pull of the boat on the anchor. After all, THAT is the primary goal. Choose an anchor that has plenty of surface area that is PERPINDICULAR to the direction of travel you want to resist. That is, you want an anchor with a large flat face. Now modify that shape somewhat to account for the ability to set and to accommodate pulling in contrary directions (sideways, 180 deg shifts, etc). For these reasons, I have always gravitated to a plow-type anchor, which will dig in when rotated and turned and has a good deal of surface area facing the boat. That said, we bought a trawler in 2007 with a SuperMax anchor on it. I didn't choose this anchor, which I think is important to understand the context of my comments. But after using this anchor for 7 years, and after carefully observing its design, I can see where it meets all of the requirements I stated above and more. It sets easily, has incredible pull resistance, and it usually buried deeply when retrieved. Finally, I add technique, or "learn how to set" as stated below. I am a firm believer of putting out more chain than you anticipate needing for the conditions you are anchoring in that night. You definitely WANT to overdo it. After all, you already bought the chain, its there, and does you no good in your boat when you go to sleep that night. Consider that 100 ft of 3/8" chain weighs about 150 lbs. Add that to my 65 lb anchor and I have deployed over 200 lbs of weight, much of which can be buried into the ground. Finally, after deploying 7:1 scope with 3/8 chain, a gentle pull on the anchor will pull it down and into the mud (backing in reverse but at idle). Connect your rope snubber. Then slowly increasing the RPM to 1100 RPM for single screw boat will deeply bury the anchor. If it does not hold at 1100 RPM, then it it the BOTTOM that is not holding and you must either retrieve and reset, or, go to another anchorage to seek a different bottom. I am a nervous nelly about boating. I need to have ASSURANCE when I leave the boat or go to sleep. I get it with this anchor and technique. I have never heard of a complaint from a Supermax user or an anchor drag from a SuperMax user. Finally finally, buy the biggest honkin' anchor your bowsprit and windlass will handle. Bigger and heavier are always better, and it's the electricity that is doing the work of deploying and retrieving it, not you. I have been accused of "overdoing it" with my anchoring technique. But honestly, who would you rather have upwind of you in a strong wind.....me, or someone else? I prefer to overdo it rather than underdo it. R. -----Original Message----- From: Great-Loop [mailto:great-loop-bounces@lists.trawlering.com] On Behalf Of Ghechtman I will add to the "learn how to set" crowd here. The primary reason we go cruising is to anchor out, and have done so along most of the coastal USA, including SW Florida, the Keys and Islands. In SW Florida and the Pacific NW, we used to charter various Grand Banks "trawlers" and they all had CQRs on them. Never a problem, including during one memorable squall off Indian Key in the 10,000 Islands. If/when you go to the Bahamas, I'll bet you will notice that more than half the cruising sailboats there have CQRs. Anchoring is about 80% technique and 20% ground tackle and I am giving ground tackle a little too much credit.. if rode and anchor are sized right for the boat, regardless of design, that goes to 90% technique, 10% ground tackle design. So take some lessons as suggested, maybe pick up a copy of Earl Hinz' "Complete Book of Anchoring and Mooring" then practice, practice, practice.
A
allen
Sun, Feb 17, 2013 4:21 AM

I've been hoping someone would mention experience with kellets

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anchor#Using_an_anchor_weight.2C_kellet_or_sentinel

I've been hoping someone would mention experience with kellets http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Anchor#Using_an_anchor_weight.2C_kellet_or_sentinel