loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works finally
Greetings all;
I've obviously managed to make a loop, trying to defeat a bug in cura
that wants to retract between teeth thousands of times that is not
needed. The code:
...
module innerspline()
{// PETG now on printer, PolyProp (PP?) has arrived. And its a disaster, went back to PETG
// and the nozzle troubles started, plugged up whole damned hotend. 3 times so far
// Magicgoo for PP must be very caustic warnings galore
// new example, low ratio 30/1 harmonic drive floating splined belt.
teeth = 60; // define number of teeth
arcx = ( 360 / teeth ); // arc of circle per tooth
$fr = 0.000000;
// adjust this to just barely get an overlap at inner corners of spline triangle
toothdia = arcx/1.60;// no bigger then needed
// adjust this for outer teeth fit in internal spline
toothrad=53.5 / 2.000;// make radius was 53.0, reduce backlash but dont compress it either
// adjust this to thin or thicken flex valleys
linerdia=51.62; // thins web at bottom of spline, helps flex if larger, was 52.2
height=12;
tranz=height / 2.000;
echo (177,teeth,arcx,toothrad,linerdia) ;
union()
{ // make splines first
for($fr=[ 0: 6 : 359 ])
{
rotate([0, 0, $fr])
translate([toothrad, 0, tranz]) // mv x=[$lr + $r1] y,z=0
cylinder(d=toothdia, h=height, $fn=3, center=true);
// made triangles, now smooth inner wall by making 2 rings, outer same as base of teeth
difference()
{
translate([0,0,tranz])cylinder(d=linerdia+.5, h=height+.01, $fn=60,center=true);
translate([0,0,tranz])cylinder(d=linerdia, h=height+.02, $fn=360,center=true);
} //but the innards needs smooth finish
}
}
}
The above reflects some comments I added as it was stuck rendering with
the blue line showing 999/1000 for around 10 minutes. A rerender after
makeing line one of the difference at an $fn=60 was still 6 minutes plus.
So the difference is being executed 60 times and getting the same results
everytime.
So I closed the "for" before the difference, getting exactly the same render
in .8 seconds. Maybe this old fart will learn how to do efficient code yet.
;o)
But cura is still miss-rendering it, doing a retraction per tooth, 60 teeth,
times layer height=6000 times. No wonder its 4 hours per print. Its spending
half its time doing useless retracts and restores. hell on the filament and
inviting a freezeup.
Thanks all.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
If the teeth aren't connected by a section big enough for infill then it
will have separate infill in each tooth which would require retraction for
each tooth. That should not be a problem.
On Sun, 4 Jul 2021 at 09:12, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
Greetings all;
I've obviously managed to make a loop, trying to defeat a bug in cura
that wants to retract between teeth thousands of times that is not
needed. The code:
...
module innerspline()
{// PETG now on printer, PolyProp (PP?) has arrived. And its a disaster,
went back to PETG
// and the nozzle troubles started, plugged up whole damned hotend. 3
times so far
// Magicgoo for PP must be very caustic warnings galore
// new example, low ratio 30/1 harmonic drive floating splined belt.
teeth = 60; // define number of teeth
arcx = ( 360 / teeth ); // arc of circle per tooth
$fr = 0.000000;
// adjust this to just barely get an overlap at inner corners of spline
triangle
toothdia = arcx/1.60;// no bigger then needed
// adjust this for outer teeth fit in internal spline
toothrad=53.5 / 2.000;// make radius was 53.0, reduce backlash but dont
compress it either
// adjust this to thin or thicken flex valleys
linerdia=51.62; // thins web at bottom of spline, helps flex if larger,
was 52.2
height=12;
tranz=height / 2.000;
echo (177,teeth,arcx,toothrad,linerdia) ;
union()
{ // make splines first
for($fr=[ 0: 6 : 359 ])
{
rotate([0, 0, $fr])
translate([toothrad, 0, tranz]) // mv x=[$lr + $r1] y,z=0
cylinder(d=toothdia, h=height, $fn=3, center=true);
// made triangles, now smooth inner wall by making 2 rings, outer
same as base of teeth
difference()
{
translate([0,0,tranz])cylinder(d=linerdia+.5,
h=height+.01, $fn=60,center=true);
translate([0,0,tranz])cylinder(d=linerdia, h=height+.02,
$fn=360,center=true);
} //but the innards needs smooth finish
}
}
}
The above reflects some comments I added as it was stuck rendering with
the blue line showing 999/1000 for around 10 minutes. A rerender after
makeing line one of the difference at an $fn=60 was still 6 minutes plus.
So the difference is being executed 60 times and getting the same results
everytime.
So I closed the "for" before the difference, getting exactly the same
render
in .8 seconds. Maybe this old fart will learn how to do efficient code yet.
;o)
But cura is still miss-rendering it, doing a retraction per tooth, 60
teeth,
times layer height=6000 times. No wonder its 4 hours per print. Its
spending
half its time doing useless retracts and restores. hell on the filament and
inviting a freezeup.
Thanks all.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On Sunday 04 July 2021 04:30:13 nop head wrote:
If the teeth aren't connected by a section big enough for infill then
it will have separate infill in each tooth which would require
retraction for each tooth. That should not be a problem.
But it is, its doing a worthless build with yards of string hangin off the part and jammed up the hot end only about 2mm up in a 12mm build. asking the teeth big enough to share/connect the infill is not an option because then its too thick and rigid to survive more than a minute or so.
And thats about a 4 hour teardown to clear that as there will be solid plastic in the heat sink that will have to be burned out of the heat sink and heat break tube. That gets old, very quickly as I just did that yesterday. And the only way to fix it is get rid of the bowden tube so you aren't retracting far enough to pull hot plastic back up into the heat sink. Screw it, a biqu bx will be here Wednesday, has the h2 head, auto bed level, silent motherboard, yadda yadda. Not as big a bed as this CR10-S Pro v2, but still like the ender 3, big enough for most projects. And likely only 1 z screw. But with the H2 head, no bowden tube, so a 2mm retraction is a good starter. At some point, I may see if the direct drive head from another cheap, Chinese disappearing maker printer can be transplated to the CR-10S pro v2. This CR10-S has done a good job, but has very high maintenance needs. The cheep chinky printer, only printed half a very small job, badly when the mainboard died. I also put 2 grand in dremels best, but it was the highest trouble maker I've had to date and less than half its features actually worked.
I've ranted enough for one day. Thanks for reading. I put the flag out since its the 4th, but I feel a nap is the next thing on my agenda.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I have never used a bowden tube myself. All I can say is with direct drive
it can retract as many times as it wants without any jams or stringing. It
does add a bit of time but with 1mm retracts done as fast as possible it
isn't much.
Seems like you are retracting too far if the retract causes a jam.
With some slicers you can specify to not retract when moving small
distances. That might give a little stringing but the idea with bowden
machines is the head can move so fast it doesn't need a retract. That only
works for moving head machines, which I think are the only ones where
bowden makes sense. With a bed slinger the bed weighs more than a direct
drive extruder so not much point in using bowden to make the head lighter.
On Sun, 4 Jul 2021 at 12:04, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Sunday 04 July 2021 04:30:13 nop head wrote:
If the teeth aren't connected by a section big enough for infill then
it will have separate infill in each tooth which would require
retraction for each tooth. That should not be a problem.
But it is, its doing a worthless build with yards of string hangin off the
part and jammed up the hot end only about 2mm up in a 12mm build. asking
the teeth big enough to share/connect the infill is not an option because
then its too thick and rigid to survive more than a minute or so.
And thats about a 4 hour teardown to clear that as there will be solid
plastic in the heat sink that will have to be burned out of the heat sink
and heat break tube. That gets old, very quickly as I just did that
yesterday. And the only way to fix it is get rid of the bowden tube so you
aren't retracting far enough to pull hot plastic back up into the heat
sink. Screw it, a biqu bx will be here Wednesday, has the h2 head, auto bed
level, silent motherboard, yadda yadda. Not as big a bed as this CR10-S Pro
v2, but still like the ender 3, big enough for most projects. And likely
only 1 z screw. But with the H2 head, no bowden tube, so a 2mm retraction
is a good starter. At some point, I may see if the direct drive head from
another cheap, Chinese disappearing maker printer can be transplated to the
CR-10S pro v2. This CR10-S has done a good job, but has very high
maintenance needs. The cheep chinky printer, only printed half a very small
job, badly when the mainboard died. I also put 2 grand in dremels best, but
it was the highest trouble maker I've had to date and less than half its
features actually worked.
I've ranted enough for one day. Thanks for reading. I put the flag out
since its the 4th, but I feel a nap is the next thing on my agenda.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
--
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I believe that if the extruder has a PTFE tube and that tube can move
vertically, retractions can pull the tube up, which can fill the space
below the tube with melted plastic, which can cause an extruder jam.
Eliminating retractions can also help in this case, although switching
filaments by a huge retraction could cause the problem even without
retractions during printing.
On 7/4/2021 8:14 AM, nop head wrote:
I have never used a bowden tube myself. All I can say is with direct
drive it can retract as many times as it wants without any jams or
stringing. It does add a bit of time but with 1mm retracts done as
fast as possible it isn't much.
Seems like you are retracting too far if the retract causes a jam.
With some slicers you can specify to not retract when moving small
distances. That might give a little stringing but the idea with bowden
machines is the head can move so fast it doesn't need a retract. That
only works for moving head machines, which I think are the only ones
where bowden makes sense. With a bed slinger the bed weighs more than
a direct drive extruder so not much point in using bowden to make the
head lighter.
unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On Sunday 04 July 2021 08:14:57 nop head wrote:
I have never used a bowden tube myself. All I can say is with direct
drive it can retract as many times as it wants without any jams or
stringing. It does add a bit of time but with 1mm retracts done as
fast as possible it isn't much.
Seems like you are retracting too far if the retract causes a jam.
With some slicers you can specify to not retract when moving small
distances. That might give a little stringing but the idea with bowden
machines is the head can move so fast it doesn't need a retract. That
only works for moving head machines, which I think are the only ones
where bowden makes sense. With a bed slinger the bed weighs more than
a direct drive extruder so not much point in using bowden to make the
head lighter.
With a big bed such as the cr10 has, that that thought sure has come up
as a question.
In re the problem nop-head explained as causing the retractions. Which
cura set at 5mm as default but that leaves stringing during travels, so
I reset it to 6mm. A method that specs the max ID that would result in a
good fit on the armatures bearings, then adjust the tooth size to get
sufficient overlap at the base of the triangle to do away with the
retractions while leaving the ID fixed. And with 60 flats. That would
leave this part at the minimum web thickness which might be enough for
decent life. IDK until I've tried it.
I do have room to expand the outer rings yet. Then using that tooth size,
make new outer rings with the tooth point faceing inwards. I also have
the code written but commented out that puts locking keys in those parts
which might slip if not enough friction. But I am concerned with this
part, that the keys will serve as stress concentrators so they've
remained as // comments so far. So I think I'll fire up the husky and do
something about the back yards jungle. 'bout a week overdue.
Thanks muchly.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Sunday 04 July 2021 04:30:13 nop head wrote:
If the teeth aren't connected by a section big enough for infill then
it will have separate infill in each tooth which would require
retraction for each tooth. That should not be a problem.
It was a huge problem, 2 days in a row. So I enlarged the teeth so there
was a bigger x section at the base of the tooth where they overlapped
with the next one, until the retractions disappeared. And I just now
burned out the jam, which went all the way back to the extruder,
breaking the filament where it entered the lever on the extruder, put
all new capricorn in and saved an hour+ in render time. Then it
autozeroed about 50 thou off the plate, redid the homeing for the third
time, got it too close so raised it .1. Now its printing, without the
retractions, but I've not a clue if its going to be usable sizewise, or
if with that thick a web, it will be flexible enough to survive an hour
running without breaking it.
That was after all, the general idea, to make it thin enough that it
could flex without near instant breakage.
I suspect that if I get the inner fit correct, that I'll have to make new
outer splines, and possibly enable a dozen keys around the edges of
those to prevent slippage which would screw up LinuxCNC real bad.
Thank you for the clue that explained the sudden appearance of all those
retractions. I hope I can work around it using PETG for those 3 parts.
With retraction reset to 4mm, was 6mm, stringing doesn't appear to be
hugely worse. PETG strings 50x worse than PLA, with strings so fine they
make a spider jealous. You can feel them in the hair on your arm, but
can't see them.
[elide code no longer valid]
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with a
flame.
The only PET I have printed is E3D Edge. I didn't get strings with my
default 1mm retraction but it stuck to the nozzle, so couldn't bridge, and
was very weak. I have since learnt I should have dried it.
Dry filament works much better because when the extruder retracts the flow
stops completely. With very dry filament I get zero ooze from the nozzle at
the end of a build. With filament that hasn't been dried I get around 20mm
that I have to snap off before starting the next build. I use that length
to indicate how much moisture there is in the filament.
The other thing that can cause strings is excess temperature that makes the
filament too liquid.
On Mon, 5 Jul 2021 at 00:44, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Sunday 04 July 2021 04:30:13 nop head wrote:
If the teeth aren't connected by a section big enough for infill then
it will have separate infill in each tooth which would require
retraction for each tooth. That should not be a problem.
It was a huge problem, 2 days in a row. So I enlarged the teeth so there
was a bigger x section at the base of the tooth where they overlapped
with the next one, until the retractions disappeared. And I just now
burned out the jam, which went all the way back to the extruder,
breaking the filament where it entered the lever on the extruder, put
all new capricorn in and saved an hour+ in render time. Then it
autozeroed about 50 thou off the plate, redid the homeing for the third
time, got it too close so raised it .1. Now its printing, without the
retractions, but I've not a clue if its going to be usable sizewise, or
if with that thick a web, it will be flexible enough to survive an hour
running without breaking it.
That was after all, the general idea, to make it thin enough that it
could flex without near instant breakage.
I suspect that if I get the inner fit correct, that I'll have to make new
outer splines, and possibly enable a dozen keys around the edges of
those to prevent slippage which would screw up LinuxCNC real bad.
Thank you for the clue that explained the sudden appearance of all those
retractions. I hope I can work around it using PETG for those 3 parts.
With retraction reset to 4mm, was 6mm, stringing doesn't appear to be
hugely worse. PETG strings 50x worse than PLA, with strings so fine they
make a spider jealous. You can feel them in the hair on your arm, but
can't see them.
[elide code no longer valid]
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On Monday 05 July 2021 04:17:45 nop head wrote:
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with
a flame.
I've been shaveing it with a fresh box knife blade.
The only PET I have printed is E3D Edge. I didn't get strings with my
default 1mm retraction but it stuck to the nozzle, so couldn't bridge,
and was very weak. I have since learnt I should have dried it.
Dry filament works much better because when the extruder retracts the
flow stops completely. With very dry filament I get zero ooze from the
nozzle at the end of a build. With filament that hasn't been dried I
get around 20mm that I have to snap off before starting the next
build. I use that length to indicate how much moisture there is in the
filament.
Obviously from that as an indicator I need to rig a dryer box of some
sort to feed filament from.
Been looking for such a food container at wally's but havn't seen a
suitable candidate yet. This PETG has been out of the bag for about 90
days worth of sweaty humidity.
The other thing that can cause strings is excess temperature that
makes the filament too liquid.
Running at 235C and 50C now, I should lower that. Recently sanded
surface, bed adhesion is once again excellent.
Thanks for the newbie info.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
From: nop head [mailto:nop.head@gmail.com]
Sent: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 18:18
To: OpenSCAD general discussion
Subject: [OpenSCAD] Re: loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works finally
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with a flame.
I thought you were going to show a tiny flame-thrower next to your nozzle.
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
I use this tiny blowtorch:
[image: IMG_20210705_105737372.jpg]
Plastic has a high specific heat capacity, so if you run it over the part
quickly it doesn't do any damage but the tiny hairs have so little mass
they instantly vaporise.
On Mon, 5 Jul 2021 at 09:59, Michael Marx michael@marx.id.au wrote:
From: nop head [mailto:nop.head@gmail.com]
Sent: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 18:18
To: OpenSCAD general discussion
Subject: [OpenSCAD] Re: loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works
finally
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with a
flame.
I thought you were going to show a tiny flame-thrower next to your nozzle.
http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient Virus-free.
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I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour or
so at 50deg C, then print with that length asap. I've mentioned before
about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there. You need
to set up the printer for your filament. tolerances between filament
blends, nozzle size, feed mechanism, thermistors, etc, can not
necessarily cancel each other out, and then there is the hot end cooling
fan on the ender,which also cools the part. You need to do the tests -
they wouldn't be available if they were not needed. If you are getting
an allmetal/direct drive hotend, you will have to start all over again
wrt the settings. If you are getting jams now, with a bowden tube setup,
and you use the same 'gung-ho' approach to settings, you will be forever
trying unsuccessfully to unblock the nozzle (been there, done that- not
the gung-ho, but the unblocking..). But properly set up, it is easy to
unblock the hot end, when you forget, and turn off the printer after the
print has finished, but before the hot end has fully cooled. And those
little 'cob-webs' - they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem,
then move to Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
On 05/07/2021 09:44, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 04:17:45 nop head wrote:
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with
a flame.
I've been shaveing it with a fresh box knife blade.
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with the
default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just works. The only
way my prints ever fail is through failed bed adhesion. PETG is not
particularly sensitive to moisture and does not have to be printed from a
drybox like nylon, for example. I do store all of my filaments in air
tight boxes with bags of desiccant, but I just print them in the open air
and have never had trouble.
On Mon, Jul 5, 2021 at 6:57 AM Ray West raywest@raywest.com wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour or
so at 50deg C, then print with that length asap. I've mentioned before
about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there. You need
to set up the printer for your filament. tolerances between filament
blends, nozzle size, feed mechanism, thermistors, etc, can not
necessarily cancel each other out, and then there is the hot end cooling
fan on the ender,which also cools the part. You need to do the tests -
they wouldn't be available if they were not needed. If you are getting
an allmetal/direct drive hotend, you will have to start all over again
wrt the settings. If you are getting jams now, with a bowden tube setup,
and you use the same 'gung-ho' approach to settings, you will be forever
trying unsuccessfully to unblock the nozzle (been there, done that- not
the gung-ho, but the unblocking..). But properly set up, it is easy to
unblock the hot end, when you forget, and turn off the printer after the
print has finished, but before the hot end has fully cooled. And those
little 'cob-webs' - they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem,
then move to Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
On 05/07/2021 09:44, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 04:17:45 nop head wrote:
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with
a flame.
I've been shaveing it with a fresh box knife blade.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S essentially
all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints adhere to the build
plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that had been out in the
humidity for a while, but other than that, it is simple and reliable for me.
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with the
default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just works. The
only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed adhesion. PETG is
not particularly sensitive to moisture and does not have to be printed
from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do store all of my
filaments in air tight boxes with bags of desiccant, but I just print
them in the open air and have never had trouble.
On 7/5/21 4:17 AM, nop head wrote:
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with a
flame.
The only PET I have printed is E3D Edge. I didn't get strings with my
default 1mm retraction but it stuck to the nozzle, so couldn't bridge,
and was very weak. I have since learnt I should have dried it.
+1 on dry PET filament.
I use my Nesco American Harvest food dehydrator for that. It is a round
one with a thermostat (model FD-61). They sell extra trays to expand it.
With the inner grid cut out, the trays become spacers. One regular tray
plus two spacers holds one spool of filament. With that setup I can dry
up to 4 spools at the same time and when set to 60°C over night, they do
get super dry.
When I am not printing it still works perfectly fine to make jerky,
dried tomatoes and all the other things it was meant for.
Regards, Jan
--
Jan Wieck
On 7/5/21 6:57 AM, Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour or
so at 50deg C, then print with that length asap. I've mentioned before
The success of that method depends on the oven. My gas oven produces too
much moisture by itself and I can't dial it low enough, so that method
has the risk of deforming the filament here.
Regards, Jan
--
Jan Wieck
Probably a bit OTT but I make my own drying boxes that are twin walled with
insulation in between, so very much like an oven.
https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2020/07/over-cooked-it.html
On Mon, 5 Jul 2021 at 15:33, Jan Wieck jan@wi3ck.info wrote:
On 7/5/21 6:57 AM, Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour or
so at 50deg C, then print with that length asap. I've mentioned before
The success of that method depends on the oven. My gas oven produces too
much moisture by itself and I can't dial it low enough, so that method
has the risk of deforming the filament here.
Regards, Jan
--
Jan Wieck
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
I have about a kilo of desiccant in small bags, because each spool of
filament came with a bag. You should be able to heat the desiccant in
the oven to drive the moisture out and then use the desiccant on the
filament. You can also get desiccant at crafts stores like Michael's
(in the States)
On 7/5/2021 10:27 AM, Jan Wieck wrote:
On 7/5/21 6:57 AM, Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour or
so at 50deg C, then print with that length asap. I've mentioned before
The success of that method depends on the oven. My gas oven produces
too much moisture by itself and I can't dial it low enough, so that
method has the risk of deforming the filament here.
Regards, Jan
On Monday 05 July 2021 04:58:40 Michael Marx wrote:
From: nop head [mailto:nop.head@gmail.com]
Sent: Mon, 5 Jul 2021 18:18
To: OpenSCAD general discussion
Subject: [OpenSCAD] Re: loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works
finally
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily with
a flame.
I thought you were going to show a tiny flame-thrower next to your
nozzle.
Don't tempt me Michael, I have reached that age, 86, where life in prison
has become a very small deterrent. ;o) I'm using my gas cookstove to
clean plugged nozzles and heat breaks already.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Humidity may, or may not be a problem. It depends where you are in the
world. Epson ink jet printers, for example, if using pigment ink, don't
like it in a dry atmosphere, most plastic fdm filaments don't like a
damp atmosphere. In many locations the little bag of silica gel is
useless, and at least one filament manufacturer is not providing them in
the vac sealed bag. Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when hot, in
that case the hair spray is used as a release film, and is easier to
apply (if more messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because something
works for me or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not mean the same
will work for others, there are too many variables in play. The best
that can be done is to thoroughly test your own system, with your own
filament, although other folk's settings may be used as a starting point.
And then, of course, there is the thing that Gene is trying to print. If
it was easy, then the drive manufacturers would be doing it, but afaik,
they are not able to do so, at least with the cheap/diy/common type
filaments/printers.
On 05/07/2021 14:17, jon wrote:
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S essentially
all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints adhere to the
build plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that had been out in
the humidity for a while, but other than that, it is simple and
reliable for me.
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with the
default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just works. The
only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed adhesion. PETG is
not particularly sensitive to moisture and does not have to be
printed from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do store all of
my filaments in air tight boxes with bags of desiccant, but I just
print them in the open air and have never had trouble.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On Monday 05 July 2021 06:57:25 Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour
or so at 50deg C,
I don't believe my gas oven will go the low. Seems I tried that once and
it wouldn't take below 200F. The wonders of electronics, spit.
then print with that length asap. I've mentioned
before about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there.
Which extension?
You need to set up the printer for your filament. tolerances between
filament blends, nozzle size, feed mechanism, thermistors, etc, can
not necessarily cancel each other out, and then there is the hot end
cooling fan on the ender,which also cools the part. You need to do the
tests - they wouldn't be available if they were not needed. If you are
getting an allmetal/direct drive hotend, you will have to start all
over again wrt the settings. If you are getting jams now, with a
bowden tube setup, and you use the same 'gung-ho' approach to
settings, you will be forever trying unsuccessfully to unblock the
nozzle (been there, done that- not the gung-ho, but the unblocking..).
But properly set up, it is easy to unblock the hot end, when you
forget, and turn off the printer after the print has finished, but
before the hot end has fully cooled. And those little 'cob-webs' -
they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem, then move to
Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
HIPS, I do not recall seeing that, url?
On 05/07/2021 09:44, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 04:17:45 nop head wrote:
Not sure if you know, but hair like strings can be removed easily
with a flame.
I've been shaveing it with a fresh box knife blade.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Monday 05 July 2021 09:17:37 jon wrote:
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S essentially
all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints adhere to the
build plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that had been out in
the humidity for a while, but other than that, it is simple and
reliable for me.
This roll has been out for a while, around 3 months, so its had plenty of
time to get wet, this house has a humidifier in the furnace, set for
50%. In thinking about it, my thoughts run toward putting the spool
several feet from the printer and running the filament thru a 1" plastic
pipe with a tee in the middle of the run being fed by a cheap hair drier
set on low, and with a couple feet of air for cooling between the end of
the pipe and the entrance to the extruder. Since in say 5 feet of pipe,
it would be heated to dry it for around an hour, wouldn't that work too?
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with the
default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just works.
The only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed adhesion.
PETG is not particularly sensitive to moisture and does not have to
be printed from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do store all
of my filaments in air tight boxes with bags of desiccant, but I
just print them in the open air and have never had trouble.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I just keep the whole spool in a box that I can set the temperature to
anything up to about 80C. I set it high for 24 hours when I put a new spool
in and then keep it at a constant 30C. Since the box is well insulated it
only takes a few Watts to keep it at that temperature and humidity reads
about 18%.
On Mon, 5 Jul 2021 at 16:46, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 09:17:37 jon wrote:
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S essentially
all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints adhere to the
build plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that had been out in
the humidity for a while, but other than that, it is simple and
reliable for me.
This roll has been out for a while, around 3 months, so its had plenty of
time to get wet, this house has a humidifier in the furnace, set for
50%. In thinking about it, my thoughts run toward putting the spool
several feet from the printer and running the filament thru a 1" plastic
pipe with a tee in the middle of the run being fed by a cheap hair drier
set on low, and with a couple feet of air for cooling between the end of
the pipe and the entrance to the extruder. Since in say 5 feet of pipe,
it would be heated to dry it for around an hour, wouldn't that work too?
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with the
default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just works.
The only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed adhesion.
PETG is not particularly sensitive to moisture and does not have to
be printed from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do store all
of my filaments in air tight boxes with bags of desiccant, but I
just print them in the open air and have never had trouble.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 05/07/2021 15:27, Jan Wieck wrote:
On 7/5/21 6:57 AM, Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour or
so at 50deg C, then print with that length asap. I've mentioned before
The success of that method depends on the oven. My gas oven produces
too much moisture by itself and I can't dial it low enough, so that
method has the risk of deforming the filament here.
Regards, Jan
Well, maybe put it in a frying pan, possibly with some cooking oil and a
few eggs! (Pet can be food safe, after all, but I'm not sure if lukewarm
eggs are food safe,'tho.)😉 If you can't get it down to 50 degrees, and
you know it is not a drying atmosphere, then it is obvious that your gas
oven won't work for you. Do you want me to suggest an alternative? It's
most likely built into your printer, if you don't know, at least if the
printer can print petg or abs.
On Monday 05 July 2021 11:29:26 Ray West wrote:
Humidity may, or may not be a problem. It depends where you are in the
world. Epson ink jet printers, for example, if using pigment ink,
don't like it in a dry atmosphere, most plastic fdm filaments don't
like a damp atmosphere. In many locations the little bag of silica gel
is useless, and at least one filament manufacturer is not providing
them in the vac sealed bag. Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when
hot, in that case the hair spray is used as a release film, and is
easier to apply (if more messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because
something works for me or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not
mean the same will work for others, there are too many variables in
play. The best that can be done is to thoroughly test your own system,
with your own filament, although other folk's settings may be used as
a starting point.
And then, of course, there is the thing that Gene is trying to print.
If it was easy, then the drive manufacturers would be doing it, but
afaik, they are not able to do so, at least with the cheap/diy/common
type filaments/printers.
That thought was also part of the challenge of doing it Ray, and I am
making progress. At my age, the learning is a little slower but its
still fun at the end of the day. That ability helps explain why I quit
school as a freshman and went to work fixing tv's, which at the time I
did it were 30 tube monsters you could heat a well insulated house with.
And that got old, so I switched to broadcasting after getting a 1st
phone in '62, and in 72 passed the CET test so I am one of those, much
rarer than a 1st phone, by 77 I had my name on the office door as Chief
Engineer, often without any help unless I needed a backhoe operator. My
final 19 working years, that door was at WDTV in North Central WV. And
now I've been retired about that long.
I guess I am a survivor, several medical events have since occurred, one
of which has a 2% survival rate, but he isn't ready for me yet. :o) So
I'm here, pestering you kind folks to learn. That is what life is all
about I believe.
On 05/07/2021 14:17, jon wrote:
I agree that I get perfect PETG prints from my Prusa MK3S
essentially all of the time. I use hairspray to help the prints
adhere to the build plate, and I did need to dry a reel of PETG that
had been out in the humidity for a while, but other than that, it is
simple and reliable for me.
On 7/5/2021 8:39 AM, Adrian Mariano wrote:
I feel like Gene is having a remarkable amount of trouble getting
successful prints. I print PETG all the time with my Prusa with
the default settings in PruseSlicer (aka slic3er) and it just
works. The only way my prints ever fail is through failed bed
adhesion. PETG is not particularly sensitive to moisture and does
not have to be printed from a drybox like nylon, for example. I do
store all of my filaments in air tight boxes with bags of
desiccant, but I just print them in the open air and have never had
trouble.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On 05/07/2021 16:34, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 06:57:25 Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that, simply
unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven for an hour
or so at 50deg C,
I don't believe my gas oven will go the low. Seems I tried that once and
it wouldn't take below 200F. The wonders of electronics, spit.
Do something else, then.
then print with that length asap. I've mentioned
before about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there.
Which extension?
go to your favourite search engine. type in 'cura extensions' in the
appropriate field, and select whichever ones you want. (Possibly
'Calibration Shapes'?)
before the hot end has fully cooled. And those little 'cob-webs' -
they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem, then move to
Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
HIPS, I do not recall seeing that, url?
see previous reply wrt search engine. maybe try 'HIPS filament'. 'HIP
replacement' probably don't want that.😕
On Mon, 2021-07-05 at 16:29 +0100, Ray West wrote:
Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when hot, in that case the hair
spray is used as a release film, and is easier to apply (if more
messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because something works for me
or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not mean the same
will work for others, there are too many variables in play.
I cringe whenever I hear someone say they use hair spray. I did speak
with one fellow who removed the glass on his bed in order to use hair
spray, but I think that's a rarity.
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
I was once told to try a product called "Pledge Floor Care Multisurface
Finish", and I have never used anything else since. Prints just pop
right off when the bed drops to about 60C. Search for it on Amazon.
It's in the blue squeeze bottle.
I squirt some on the bed, then use a rag to wipe over the surface
(glass). 1 application will last quite a few prints, and you can just
wipe some more on, as it will dissolve the dried stuff that's already
on there. Every few months or so, I'll clean the bed thoroughly.
But as you say, what works for one, may not work for others.
On 7/5/21 12:04 PM, Ray West wrote:
If you can't get it down to 50 degrees, and
you know it is not a drying atmosphere, then it is obvious that your gas
oven won't work for you. Do you want me to suggest an alternative? It's
most likely built into your printer, if you don't know, at least if the
printer can print petg or abs.
As said above, I'm using my food dehydrator with extra trays that are
modified to spacers. Works very well. For storage I use freezer bags
with Dry&Dry desiccant, the color coded stuff. That can also be dried
perfectly in the dehydrator.
Regards, Jan
--
Jan Wieck
On Monday 05 July 2021 12:56:32 Ray West wrote:
On 05/07/2021 16:34, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 06:57:25 Ray West wrote:
I don't think it is just moisture in your case. To test that,
simply unwind enough filament from the spool, place in your oven
for an hour or so at 50deg C,
I don't believe my gas oven will go the low. Seems I tried that once
and it wouldn't take below 200F. The wonders of electronics, spit.
Do something else, then.
then print with that length asap. I've mentioned
before about the cura extensions - there are retract tests in there.
Which extension?
go to your favourite search engine. type in 'cura extensions' in the
appropriate field, and select whichever ones you want. (Possibly
'Calibration Shapes'?)
before the hot end has fully cooled. And those little 'cob-webs' -
they will jam the fans. If humidity is the problem, then move to
Arizona, or just print with HIPS, but you will love that!.
HIPS, I do not recall seeing that, url?
see previous reply wrt search engine. maybe try 'HIPS filament'. 'HIP
replacement' probably don't want that.
No, but lower lumbar disc replacements might be an option. If I could
find a surgeon that would try it.
However, in this thread that all have snipped, without comment, my
suggestion of feeding the filament thru a long (5 feet) plastic pipe
with heated air flow at 70-90C flowing in the pipe, placed between the
spool and the printer with a couple feet of air to cool it between the
end of the pipe and the extruder, Is that so off the wall as to be
ignored?
My last make turned out to be just a visible crack oversized, so one
about .15mm smaller is building now.
Thanks all.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Monday 05 July 2021 14:43:32 larry wrote:
On Mon, 2021-07-05 at 16:29 +0100, Ray West wrote:
Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when hot, in that case the hair
spray is used as a release film, and is easier to apply (if more
messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because something works for me
or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not mean the same
will work for others, there are too many variables in play.
I cringe whenever I hear someone say they use hair spray. I did speak
with one fellow who removed the glass on his bed in order to use hair
spray, but I think that's a rarity.
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
I was once told to try a product called "Pledge Floor Care
Multisurface Finish", and I have never used anything else since.
Prints just pop right off when the bed drops to about 60C. Search for
it on Amazon. It's in the blue squeeze bottle.
I squirt some on the bed, then use a rag to wipe over the surface
(glass). 1 application will last quite a few prints, and you can just
wipe some more on, as it will dissolve the dried stuff that's already
on there. Every few months or so, I'll clean the bed thoroughly.
This is a small town, 2 stores that might have it, but I'm headed out to
find some shortly. Thanks Larry
But as you say, what works for one, may not work for others.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient than an
insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it. Whether it would work
depends on how quickly the filament dries in hot air, which I don't know.
On Mon, 5 Jul 2021 at 20:05, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 14:43:32 larry wrote:
On Mon, 2021-07-05 at 16:29 +0100, Ray West wrote:
Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when hot, in that case the hair
spray is used as a release film, and is easier to apply (if more
messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because something works for me
or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not mean the same
will work for others, there are too many variables in play.
I cringe whenever I hear someone say they use hair spray. I did speak
with one fellow who removed the glass on his bed in order to use hair
spray, but I think that's a rarity.
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
I was once told to try a product called "Pledge Floor Care
Multisurface Finish", and I have never used anything else since.
Prints just pop right off when the bed drops to about 60C. Search for
it on Amazon. It's in the blue squeeze bottle.
I squirt some on the bed, then use a rag to wipe over the surface
(glass). 1 application will last quite a few prints, and you can just
wipe some more on, as it will dissolve the dried stuff that's already
on there. Every few months or so, I'll clean the bed thoroughly.
This is a small town, 2 stores that might have it, but I'm headed out to
find some shortly. Thanks Larry
But as you say, what works for one, may not work for others.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On 7/5/21 2:43 PM, larry wrote:
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
No problem with the Prusa MK3 series printers. Just take off the steel
sheet, hold it in a different direction and spray. The steel print
surface is held flat on the heated bed with strong magnets. It is
designed to be taken off so that it can be bent to get the prints off
without using tools.
Now imagine a 50+ year old bloke half bald with a 3mm haircut going to
CVS and buying just 2 cans of Aquanet hairspray. The face of the cashier
was priceless.
Regards, Jan
--
Jan Wieck
On 7/5/2021 12:53 PM, nop head wrote:
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient
than an insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it.
On the other hand, the heated pipe is more of a "demand dryer";
presumably you could swap from one spool of filament to another without
substantial delay. With an insulated box it seems like you'd have to
"cook" the new spool for a while, or keep the spools in some other
low-humidity storage device.
But mostly I'm listening to this conversation and wondering what part of
the world you all are in. Here in inland Los Angeles, I just keep my
filament sitting out, and I have spools of PLA that are five years old
and don't give me any trouble.
Or maybe the flaws are small enough that I just don't know better.
On Monday 05 July 2021 15:53:49 nop head wrote:
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient
than an insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it. Whether it
would work depends on how quickly the filament dries in hot air, which
I don't know.
At 5 or 6 feet, and the rate of fiber travel thru it, over an hour, I'd
think it should make a noticeable difference. Certainly worth the price
of the poly pipe and fittings to hook up a spare hair driver to it. not
as energy efficient as the hot box, but a couple days quicker to build.
Turn it on when the printer is turned on, and it ought to have drier
filament at the printer about the time cura has everything warmed up as
its a minimum of 6 minutes just for that since it rereads the bed level
error before every print at 25 locations on the bed, about 5 minutes
right there..
Right now its sitting on a table/hutch combo, with the computer on a 2x2
ft piece of ply on saw horses, and a tall chest of drawers about a
hundred years old is about 5 or 6 feet away. And with a box to hold the
spool getting the warm air from that end of the pipe, it ought to wind
up drying the whole spool eventually.
On Mon, 5 Jul 2021 at 20:05, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 14:43:32 larry wrote:
On Mon, 2021-07-05 at 16:29 +0100, Ray West wrote:
Wrt petg, it'll stick to most things when hot, in that case the
hair spray is used as a release film, and is easier to apply (if
more messy) compared to a glue stick. Just because something
works for me or you, in the case of 3d printing, does not mean
the same will work for others, there are too many variables in
play.
I cringe whenever I hear someone say they use hair spray. I did
speak with one fellow who removed the glass on his bed in order to
use hair spray, but I think that's a rarity.
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
I was once told to try a product called "Pledge Floor Care
Multisurface Finish", and I have never used anything else since.
Prints just pop right off when the bed drops to about 60C. Search
for it on Amazon. It's in the blue squeeze bottle.
I squirt some on the bed, then use a rag to wipe over the surface
(glass). 1 application will last quite a few prints, and you can
just wipe some more on, as it will dissolve the dried stuff that's
already on there. Every few months or so, I'll clean the bed
thoroughly.
This is a small town, 2 stores that might have it, but I'm headed
out to find some shortly. Thanks Larry
But as you say, what works for one, may not work for others.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law
respectable. - Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 17:15 Jordan Brown openscad@jordan.maileater.net
wrote:
But mostly I'm listening to this conversation and wondering what part of
the world you all are in. Here in inland Los Angeles, I just keep my
filament sitting out, and I have spools of PLA that are five years old and
don't give me any trouble.
Southeast Pennsylvania here. In the summer 75% rh are normal.
Regards, Jan
On 7/5/2021 2:35 PM, Jan Wieck wrote:
Southeast Pennsylvania here. In the summer 75% rh are normal.
According to Weather Underground, we're sitting at 23% at the moment.
My sinuses hate it, but my filament loves it.
On Monday 05 July 2021 16:19:11 Jan Wieck wrote:
On 7/5/21 2:43 PM, larry wrote:
There's no way I want hairspray on anything that isn't my print
surface, and I don't see an easy way to avoid getting in onto
leadscrews, belts, electronics, etc.
No problem with the Prusa MK3 series printers. Just take off the steel
sheet, hold it in a different direction and spray. The steel print
surface is held flat on the heated bed with strong magnets. It is
designed to be taken off so that it can be bent to get the prints off
without using tools.
Now imagine a 50+ year old bloke half bald with a 3mm haircut going to
CVS and buying just 2 cans of Aquanet hairspray. The face of the
cashier was priceless.
Regards, Jan
ROTFLMAO! At 86, I'm pretty thin on top too. But I make up for it, the
beard still looks a lot like the pix on the front page of my web site.
url in my sig. Unforch, the lady standing beside me that morning passed
(COPD) last Pearl Harbor Day, so I've got the paid for place to myself
now.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
On Monday 05 July 2021 17:35:47 Jan Wieck wrote:
On Mon, Jul 5, 2021, 17:15 Jordan Brown
openscad@jordan.maileater.net
wrote:
But mostly I'm listening to this conversation and wondering what
part of the world you all are in. Here in inland Los Angeles, I
just keep my filament sitting out, and I have spools of PLA that are
five years old and don't give me any trouble.
Been to LA, even ICE plants you can't water cuz there isn't enough water
are in trouble.
Southeast Pennsylvania here. In the summer 75% rh are normal.
Regards, Jan
And I'm about 140mi south of Pitsburgh in WV, rh of 70% seems bone dry in
the summer. 87F on the front deck in the shade right now at 17:49.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
Gene,
Your hair dryer pipe will is not likely to get moisture below the surface of the filament.
These things suck-up moisture and with enough time it is distributed evenly through the material.
Hence things like ovens or Nopheads box, with time the moisture leeches out.
Even a big plastic box with a large pack of damp-rid works, but it needs time.
If you don't have time for now, see if you can quick delivery of a fresh spool.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Heskett [mailto:gheskett@shentel.net]
Sent: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 05:01
To: discuss@lists.openscad.org
Subject: [OpenSCAD] Re: loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works finally
However, in this thread that all have snipped, without comment, my
suggestion of feeding the filament thru a long (5 feet) plastic pipe
with heated air flow at 70-90C flowing in the pipe, placed between the
spool and the printer with a couple feet of air to cool it between the
end of the pipe and the extruder, Is that so off the wall as to be
ignored?
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
https://www.avg.com
On 05/07/2021 22:35, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 15:53:49 nop head wrote:
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient
than an insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it. Whether it
would work depends on how quickly the filament dries in hot air, which
I don't know.
At 5 or 6 feet, and the rate of fiber travel thru it, over an hour, I'd
think it should make a noticeable difference. Certainly worth the price
of the poly pipe and fittings to hook up a spare hair driver to it. not
as energy efficient as the hot box, but a couple days quicker to build.
Turn it on when the printer is turned on, and it ought to have drier
filament at the printer about the time cura has everything warmed up as
its a minimum of 6 minutes just for that since it rereads the bed level
error before every print at 25 locations on the bed, about 5 minutes
right there..
Right now its sitting on a table/hutch combo, with the computer on a 2x2
ft piece of ply on saw horses, and a tall chest of drawers about a
hundred years old is about 5 or 6 feet away. And with a box to hold the
spool getting the warm air from that end of the pipe, it ought to wind
up drying the whole spool eventually.
If you've got the hair dryer, and a length of 2 inch diameter plastic
pipe, or similar, then it would be worth a try. Probably best to try and
get the filament more or less in centre of pipe a few bent wire pig
tails could do that. The reason why a day or two is needed for drying a
spool is because of the spool sides (usually) and the number of layers
required to get through to the centre of the spool. You can possibly
hear the difference, damp filament 'pops' in the extruder, as the
moisture turns to steam, and you get a rough surface. You'll have to
unload the filament from hot end, or waste the first few feet, if not
dried. A low cost/effort alternative would be to unspool a bit more
filament than needed, and set your bed temp to 50deg, and leave the
loose filament coiled on there for an hour or two.
On Monday 05 July 2021 21:03:31 Ray West wrote:
On 05/07/2021 22:35, Gene Heskett wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 15:53:49 nop head wrote:
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient
than an insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it. Whether
it would work depends on how quickly the filament dries in hot air,
which I don't know.
At 5 or 6 feet, and the rate of fiber travel thru it, over an hour,
I'd think it should make a noticeable difference. Certainly worth
the price of the poly pipe and fittings to hook up a spare hair
driver to it. not as energy efficient as the hot box, but a couple
days quicker to build. Turn it on when the printer is turned on, and
it ought to have drier filament at the printer about the time cura
has everything warmed up as its a minimum of 6 minutes just for that
since it rereads the bed level error before every print at 25
locations on the bed, about 5 minutes right there..
Right now its sitting on a table/hutch combo, with the computer on a
2x2 ft piece of ply on saw horses, and a tall chest of drawers about
a hundred years old is about 5 or 6 feet away. And with a box to
hold the spool getting the warm air from that end of the pipe, it
ought to wind up drying the whole spool eventually.
If you've got the hair dryer, and a length of 2 inch diameter plastic
pipe, or similar, then it would be worth a try. Probably best to try
and get the filament more or less in centre of pipe a few bent wire
pig tails could do that. The reason why a day or two is needed for
drying a spool is because of the spool sides (usually) and the number
of layers required to get through to the centre of the spool. You can
possibly hear the difference, damp filament 'pops' in the extruder, as
the moisture turns to steam, and you get a rough surface. You'll have
to unload the filament from hot end, or waste the first few feet, if
not dried. A low cost/effort alternative would be to unspool a bit
more filament than needed, and set your bed temp to 50deg, and leave
the loose filament coiled on there for an hour or two.
I've considered a microwave but with a separate transformer for the tubes
heater, set for about 90% of its normal voltage and left on full time so
the heater wasn't being stressed with the power cycling most microwaves
do for heating control. And then switching the high voltage 2 secs on,
20 off. Microwaves are specific for heating water which is best done at
2450 MHz. At a 10% duty cycle, with no warm up delay that would bake the
water out to truly bone dry in a couple hours. And as the water left,
the heating wouldn't be so effective and a normal temp sensor, working
while the microwave is in the off cycle, could easily detect the drop in
temp as the water was baked out. Cheaper than $100 700 watt microwaves
could be modified by someone like me to make a really good filament
dryer. It could also serve to recycle the desiccant bags as the on time
could be reduced until its too short to start a fire in a really damp
bag of that stuff.
OTOH, amazon has a one spool dryer for $45, so I just bought two as I
expect to have a BIQU BX to join this one by Wednesday evening. And
since I finally got a perfect fit of the loose spline about an hour ago,
I dropped 5 gags of desiccant in a spool box, along with this spool of
petg, and its all sitting on a 55C build plate the rest of the night.
We'll see how it works sometime tommorrow when I go to remake the 2
inward facing splines this loose one will run inside of.
Progress, sometimes too slow to brag about it but I'm not a very good
waiter either. :o)
Thanks for reading this far.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
This thread is getting way off-topic for OpenSCAD Support!
But seeing we're here already, and it's slow day at 91-99*%RH & apparent -0.5?C at midday...
I thought it worth sharing on of my early learnin's.
Don't try this at home.
*The other learnin, of you can't see the hills for the fog, apparently that means it is 99%RH.
-----Original Message-----
From: MichaelAtOz [mailto:oz.at.michael@gmail.com]
Sent: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 08:53
To: 'OpenSCAD general discussion'
Subject: [OpenSCAD] Re: loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works finally
Gene,
Your hair dryer pipe will is not likely to get moisture below the surface of the filament.
These things suck-up moisture and with enough time it is distributed evenly through the
material.
Hence things like ovens or Nopheads box, with time the moisture leeches out.
Even a big plastic box with a large pack of damp-rid works, but it needs time.
If you don't have time for now, see if you can quick delivery of a fresh spool.
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene Heskett [mailto:gheskett@shentel.net]
Sent: Tue, 6 Jul 2021 05:01
Subject: [OpenSCAD] Re: loooooooong f6, like 10+ minutes but works finally
However, in this thread that all have snipped, without comment, my
suggestion of feeding the filament thru a long (5 feet) plastic pipe
with heated air flow at 70-90C flowing in the pipe, placed between the
spool and the printer with a couple feet of air to cool it between the
end of the pipe and the extruder, Is that so off the wall as to be
ignored?
--
This email has been checked for viruses by AVG.
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
--
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https://www.avg.com
Wouldn't it better to blow the heated air from the end closest to the printer to maximise the gradient of heated dried air max-ing just before the filament enters the printer? Rolls of cheap black irrigation pipe looped up next to my printer are springing to mind to get a more compact system. The pipe would only need to be long enough that the exiting air was at room temperature (unless the printer room is heated seasonal variations maybe needed, no such luck in my shed unfortunately.) Then solving the dust problem would be next.
I like the on demand idea.
Cheers, RobW
On 6 July 2021 7:15:16 am AEST, Jordan Brown openscad@jordan.maileater.net wrote:
On 7/5/2021 12:53 PM, nop head wrote:
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient
than an insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it.
On the other hand, the heated pipe is more of a "demand dryer";
presumably you could swap from one spool of filament to another without
substantial delay. With an insulated box it seems like you'd have to
"cook" the new spool for a while, or keep the spools in some other
low-humidity storage device.
But mostly I'm listening to this conversation and wondering what part
of
the world you all are in. Here in inland Los Angeles, I just keep my
filament sitting out, and I have spools of PLA that are five years old
and don't give me any trouble.
Or maybe the flaws are small enough that I just don't know better.
On Monday 05 July 2021 22:35:26 MichaelAtOz wrote:
This thread is getting way off-topic for OpenSCAD Support!
No argument there. But I've done several net searches for a mailing list
for such conversations without getting a hit yet.
And since OpenSCAD is so well suited for building something we can slice
and make, here I am.
Where else could I find out that cura goes into an ape excrement of
retractions that kill the printer if it has to retract to get to the
next tooth?
I now have code for the loose belt that doesn't trigger that, and my next
step is to import code I've already written, modify it
for about .5mm bigger internal facing teeth because I can't reduce the
tooth circles of the teeth any more without triggering an extra hours
worth of useless retractions that only serve to jam up the hotend, and
for the diff OD's of the last 2 parts, including locking keys to prevent
slippage rotation when the going gets hard. And added an assembly clip
to hold it all together with else I'll have to superglue the assembly
with no chance of repair if it does fail.
And PETG seems to be enough more flexible than PLA, allowing the
additional thickness to satisfy the retraction trigger which adds an
hour to the render time estimate cura gives, doing it without triggering
a fatigue break in just seconds. This last part has now been run at 3000
revs several times until my fingers keeping it from rotating are numb
from the vibration several times now. PLA wouldn't survive that for 3
seconds. And OpenSCAD's ease of doing modifications in .01mm increments
makes that part easy.
There seems to be a plethora of usefull info here from folks also rowing
in a similar boat and I'm very gratefull for your willingness to share
it.
There is one other mailing list on the net that is really helpfull,
actually a pair, one for users, and one for the developers of LinuxCNC.
You will find me on those lists too, sharing my electronics knowledge
with those folks. The biggest impediment to using OpenSCAD to make parts
in steel, is the lack of a translator that can make use of the gcode
features LinuxCNC can make a machine do. It can do loops, which cannot
be done by any interpreter extant, they all get the job done but cura
has to generate several gigabytes of gcode by unrolling the loops into
teeny little straight line moves. I've written 90 line programs for
LinuxCNC that took 3 days to run.
*The other learnin, of you can't see the hills for the fog, apparently
that means it is 99%RH.
We get a lot of that about daybreak here. But methinks that roll got a
little too warm. Just a wee bit. :) Which might be considered odd, since
this is wintertime in Oz. At 39 degrees north, our AC's are working
overtime. Not at 3 am tonight, but probably by 10 am.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
I never need to take retractions into account when designing. There is
something wrong with your printer or slicer config if they cause a jam or
take a significant time.
I also design 2D parts that I route with Linux CNC and have no problem with
short segments.
On Tue, 6 Jul 2021 at 09:36, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Monday 05 July 2021 22:35:26 MichaelAtOz wrote:
This thread is getting way off-topic for OpenSCAD Support!
No argument there. But I've done several net searches for a mailing list
for such conversations without getting a hit yet.
And since OpenSCAD is so well suited for building something we can slice
and make, here I am.
Where else could I find out that cura goes into an ape excrement of
retractions that kill the printer if it has to retract to get to the
next tooth?
I now have code for the loose belt that doesn't trigger that, and my next
step is to import code I've already written, modify it
for about .5mm bigger internal facing teeth because I can't reduce the
tooth circles of the teeth any more without triggering an extra hours
worth of useless retractions that only serve to jam up the hotend, and
for the diff OD's of the last 2 parts, including locking keys to prevent
slippage rotation when the going gets hard. And added an assembly clip
to hold it all together with else I'll have to superglue the assembly
with no chance of repair if it does fail.
And PETG seems to be enough more flexible than PLA, allowing the
additional thickness to satisfy the retraction trigger which adds an
hour to the render time estimate cura gives, doing it without triggering
a fatigue break in just seconds. This last part has now been run at 3000
revs several times until my fingers keeping it from rotating are numb
from the vibration several times now. PLA wouldn't survive that for 3
seconds. And OpenSCAD's ease of doing modifications in .01mm increments
makes that part easy.
There seems to be a plethora of usefull info here from folks also rowing
in a similar boat and I'm very gratefull for your willingness to share
it.
There is one other mailing list on the net that is really helpfull,
actually a pair, one for users, and one for the developers of LinuxCNC.
You will find me on those lists too, sharing my electronics knowledge
with those folks. The biggest impediment to using OpenSCAD to make parts
in steel, is the lack of a translator that can make use of the gcode
features LinuxCNC can make a machine do. It can do loops, which cannot
be done by any interpreter extant, they all get the job done but cura
has to generate several gigabytes of gcode by unrolling the loops into
teeny little straight line moves. I've written 90 line programs for
LinuxCNC that took 3 days to run.
*The other learnin, of you can't see the hills for the fog, apparently
that means it is 99%RH.
We get a lot of that about daybreak here. But methinks that roll got a
little too warm. Just a wee bit. :) Which might be considered odd, since
this is wintertime in Oz. At 39 degrees north, our AC's are working
overtime. Not at 3 am tonight, but probably by 10 am.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
On Tuesday 06 July 2021 02:20:14 Rob Ward wrote:
Wouldn't it better to blow the heated air from the end closest to the
printer to maximise the gradient of heated dried air max-ing just
before the filament enters the printer? Rolls of cheap black
irrigation pipe looped up next to my printer are springing to mind to
get a more compact system. The pipe would only need to be long enough
that the exiting air was at room temperature (unless the printer room
is heated seasonal variations maybe needed, no such luck in my shed
unfortunately.) Then solving the dust problem would be next. I like
the on demand idea.
Cheers, RobW
That will very quickly run you up against the limit known well by
electricians, you can't pull wire around more than 3 corners in the
conduit you install. Even when using wire lube affectionately known as
snot. One 90 degree bend is ok, two gets difficult and 3 such bends is
get out a come-a-long hard. Since no lube is allowed on the filaments,
you would be in trouble by the time your water pipe has made half a turn
of that coil. Not even capricorn tubing is immune to that, which is why
I cringe at the printers that put the extruder on the left end of the x
transport because the tubing is bent nearly 180 degrees from there to
the head where it has to turn an additional 90 degrees to enter the top
of the hotend. Much much worse when the carriage is at the left end of
its travel. It only works because the tubing is being flexed as the x
axis moves, tending to break the friction bond. The ender 5, with its
180 degree bend at both ends of the x travel at least equalizes that
drag, but it would be bunches better if the spool was moved to the top
frame and the extruder were turned upside down and moved to the peak of
a pyramid centered on top of the machine so it was much closer to a
straight line from the extruder to the hotend.
On 6 July 2021 7:15:16 am AEST, Jordan Brown
On 7/5/2021 12:53 PM, nop head wrote:
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient
than an insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it.
On the other hand, the heated pipe is more of a "demand dryer";
presumably you could swap from one spool of filament to another
without substantial delay. With an insulated box it seems like
you'd have to "cook" the new spool for a while, or keep the spools
in some other low-humidity storage device.
But mostly I'm listening to this conversation and wondering what part
of
the world you all are in. Here in inland Los Angeles, I just keep my
filament sitting out, and I have spools of PLA that are five years
old and don't give me any trouble.
Or maybe the flaws are small enough that I just don't know better.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
PTFE is the most slippery substance known to man I think. I have no problem
pulling filament through 180 degree loops with a further 90 into the
extruder. And brake cables on bikes snake around a lot, which is where
Bowden tubes came from.
I have known people lubricate filament with oil in the early days of
Reprap, so you can also lubricate filament if you need to.
You do seem to have problems with 3D printing that just works for the rest
of us.
On Tue, 6 Jul 2021 at 10:12, Gene Heskett gheskett@shentel.net wrote:
On Tuesday 06 July 2021 02:20:14 Rob Ward wrote:
Wouldn't it better to blow the heated air from the end closest to the
printer to maximise the gradient of heated dried air max-ing just
before the filament enters the printer? Rolls of cheap black
irrigation pipe looped up next to my printer are springing to mind to
get a more compact system. The pipe would only need to be long enough
that the exiting air was at room temperature (unless the printer room
is heated seasonal variations maybe needed, no such luck in my shed
unfortunately.) Then solving the dust problem would be next. I like
the on demand idea.
Cheers, RobW
That will very quickly run you up against the limit known well by
electricians, you can't pull wire around more than 3 corners in the
conduit you install. Even when using wire lube affectionately known as
snot. One 90 degree bend is ok, two gets difficult and 3 such bends is
get out a come-a-long hard. Since no lube is allowed on the filaments,
you would be in trouble by the time your water pipe has made half a turn
of that coil. Not even capricorn tubing is immune to that, which is why
I cringe at the printers that put the extruder on the left end of the x
transport because the tubing is bent nearly 180 degrees from there to
the head where it has to turn an additional 90 degrees to enter the top
of the hotend. Much much worse when the carriage is at the left end of
its travel. It only works because the tubing is being flexed as the x
axis moves, tending to break the friction bond. The ender 5, with its
180 degree bend at both ends of the x travel at least equalizes that
drag, but it would be bunches better if the spool was moved to the top
frame and the extruder were turned upside down and moved to the peak of
a pyramid centered on top of the machine so it was much closer to a
straight line from the extruder to the hotend.
On 6 July 2021 7:15:16 am AEST, Jordan Brown
On 7/5/2021 12:53 PM, nop head wrote:
A 5ft heated pipe seems far less convenient and energy inefficient
than an insulated box that encloses the spool and warms it.
On the other hand, the heated pipe is more of a "demand dryer";
presumably you could swap from one spool of filament to another
without substantial delay. With an insulated box it seems like
you'd have to "cook" the new spool for a while, or keep the spools
in some other low-humidity storage device.
But mostly I'm listening to this conversation and wondering what part
of
the world you all are in. Here in inland Los Angeles, I just keep my
filament sitting out, and I have spools of PLA that are five years
old and don't give me any trouble.
Or maybe the flaws are small enough that I just don't know better.
Cheers, Gene Heskett
"There are four boxes to be used in defense of liberty:
soap, ballot, jury, and ammo. Please use in that order."
-Ed Howdershelt (Author)
If we desire respect for the law, we must first make the law respectable.
- Louis D. Brandeis
Genes Web page http://geneslinuxbox.net:6309/gene
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Don't try this at home.
Oh dear!
Oven with convection would actually be good if you can just keep the
temperature accurate....
I constructed an Arduino with a light sensor, temperature sensor and step
motor (+ knob+display+buzzer) and can control the oven to +-0.5 degree
https://youtu.be/jbKlLoTx0es. My problem is: Arduino freezes after a
while.... so I am at the same, dumb situation as before (and fear the same
result as your foto).
The Arduino probably crashes due to the noise from the brushes of the DC
motor in the servo. Perhaps separate them physically and put the servo
wires through a ferrite ring. See
https://hydraraptor.blogspot.com/2007/09/dc-to-daylight.html
On Tue, 6 Jul 2021 at 11:56, dpa sc@pankd.de wrote:
Don't try this at home.
Oh dear!
Oven with convection would actually be good if you can just keep the
temperature accurate....
I constructed an Arduino with a light sensor, temperature sensor and step
motor (+ knob+display+buzzer) and can control the oven to +-0.5 degree
https://youtu.be/jbKlLoTx0es. My problem is: Arduino freezes after a
while.... so I am at the same, dumb situation as before (and fear the same
result as your foto).
OpenSCAD mailing list
To unsubscribe send an email to discuss-leave@lists.openscad.org
Maybe we need a new section, entitled 'Gene's Blog', or something. The
fact remains, although this is now not about openscad, openscad is a
tool to get to a destination, whether that is a physical object or
something more ephemeral, so keeping to the new theme within this
thread wrt filament drying, it seems a bit daft, to keep a whole spool
of filament dry, when all you need is the few metres you are printing.
It is OK, if you are, say, continuously printing the same filament type,
but when experimenting with different colours/types, you can end up with
a dozen or so spools to keep dry. There are plenty of solutions, vacuum
sealing/desiccant, etc. but it is a bit of a hassle/expense. Why not
keep the spools as is, no packaging, and condition what you need as you
use it? that makes more sense to me. So, we could use a relatively small
diameter, slightly heated tube, heating element wrapped around the
outside, holes in tube to let the moist warm air escape - a foot or so
ptfe perforated bowden tube would most likely do, or possibly a larger
tube with warm air blown through. I expect it's been invented before,
and most likely being produced somewhere, but where's the fun in buying
your way out of problems?
There are plenty of cheap temp controllers - I've used this type
https://smile.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B08RDJZM7X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
(If I'd not bought my way out of that problem, the components would have
cost much more than the completed item.
and there are flexible heating elements for home brewing, seed raising,
etc. Could probably make the whole thing for thirty quid.
An acquaintance of mine, lives in Arizona, has no problems with moisture
in 3d print filament, no need for vacuum sealing/whatever. I'm not sure,
if instead of a heated bed, he has a cooled bed...