> > Allen, > > OK. Well, you can either trust all the advice you got on the value of the books.... or not... You will get far better information - and far better understanding - from them than you will off any Internet forum. > > Kellets work. The purpose of kellets is to add elasticity to the rode system. Elasticity allows the rode to absorb the instantaneous forces generated by wind and wave, rather than have those forces transmitted to the deck attachment hardware, anchor or seafloor, causing the system to fail. Kellets do this by preserving the catenary (droop) of the chain, or of the chain/line hybrid. In 35 kt wind (approaching gale force), chains will become bar tight, and all elasticity in the ride system will be gone. Surge and wind forces will be transmitted to hard points in the system. Kellets extend the range of wind and surge forces at which this will happen. So, instead of loosing elasticity at 35 kts, you'll loose elasticity at some greater level of surge and winds; say, maybe, 55 - 60 kts with a heavy kellet. And so, that's also why a hybrid rode is better than an all chain rode for anchoring in heavy sea conditions. The books will both explain that the beneficial effect of preserving the catenary still allows you plenty of flexibility in how far down the rode the kellet rides. In this discussion, we have not talked about rode to seafloor angle; scope is still the best tool you have to ensure secure anchoring. > > Kellets are *not* something to deploy routinely unless you have a high tolerance for additional work and pain. Kellets need to be heavy; generally, the heavier the better... Up to a point... Again, I refer you to the books... > > I would say the criteria for using kellets would include: > 1. Known poor holding where rode to seafloor angle really counts (Bahamas). > 2. Situations where short scope anchoring is unavoidable (crowded anchorages) (but, this is also a risky choice; it's better to just move on) > 3. Gale/storm force winds are expected. This to include the passage of a thunderstorm front in the summertime. > > You do not need to buy a made-for-purpose kellet; any significant weight will do. One friend of mine used a spare 25# danforth anchor. He ran it down the rode until it reached the bottom, and tied it off. That worked for him. A bundle of chain made up into a weight ball will also work. This stuff does not have to be pretty; only functional. > > Snubbers/bridles do not do the same job, and belong in an entirely different conversation. Snubbers do add elasticity to the rode systems; bridles are generally too short to be of any significant benefit. Aboard Sanctuary, we do routinely deploy a bridle, but it's to attenuate the noises of the chain working over the bow roller and, to move side-loading force to hardpoints on the hull (hawse cleats) rather than on the pulpit, and to help reduce horsing at anchor in light to moderate winds. The bridle is not about elasticity in the system, because it actually contributes such a minimal amount. > > Again, (have I mentioned this before?) read the books. This is a large, complex topic, and the pieces all interact with each other. > > Hope this helps > > Jim > > On Feb 17, 2013, at 10:56 AM, allen <allendick@gmail.com> wrote: > >> > Did you read the books I suggested? They were: ... Eric Hinz' book, "The Complete Guide to Anchoring and Mooring," and the book by Alain Poiraud and Erica and Achim Ginsberg-Klemmt called, "The Complete Anchoring Handbook," McGraw Hill (International Marine, Camden, Maine), 2008, ISBN: 978-0-07-147508-2. They both have entire chapters on kellets. >> >> Not yet. Peg and Jim Healy aboard Sanctuary Currently at Charlotte Harbor, Punta Gorda, FL Monk 36 Hull #132 MMSI #367042570 AGLCA #3767 MTOA #3436