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L

LRZeitlin@aol.com

Wed, Aug 1, 2007 5:23 PM

In a message dated 8/1/07 12:00:56 AM, Darren writes:

My surveyor tells me that I have approx 60 small (less than golf ball)
blisters on either side of purchase vessel. After a long talk my father suggests
walking from deal as this is a painful repair process. I know I can repair
but it will be messy and cost in materials and hauling. I am planning on going
ahead, but only if this is factored into final price.

Blister repair is a simple but messy process. It is labor and time intensive.
That's why boatyards charge so much. The material cost is almost trivial. My
wife and I have repaired boats with as many as 300 blisters, some the size of
dinner plates. Before you undertake such a project, get the West blister
repair manual and see if you want to do the job.

As far as your immediate decision, have the boatyard give you an estimate for
blister repair. Then knock the estimate off the asking price and see of the
present owner will go for it.

If he accepts the deal, here is the drill. For spot repair of the 60
blisters, block up the boat in a location where it can sit undisturbed for a few
weeks. Mark every blister with a magic marker. Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of
each blister, using a collar around the drill so you don't penetrate the hull. A
nasty brown liquid will probably squirt out. Then get a grinder and grind
away the surface of each blister with 36 grit paper until you are down to intact
fiberglass. Be carefull, don't grind through the hull. When you are finished,
wash the cavities with several changes of water, then go away for several
weeks to let the fiberglass dry out. Better to move the boat to Arizona but that
is usually impractical. When dry, paint each cavity with epoxy resin to seal
the fiberglass. Cut a number of discs out of 10 oz. fiberglass cloth in varying
sizes ranging from the diameter of the largest blisters, decreasing in size by
half inch increments. Now for the real work.

Wet each blister cavity with epoxy resin. Before the resin sets place a small
fiberglass disc in the hole of each cavity. Then go around the boat wetting
each cavity again and place the next larger size disc in the blister site.
Continue the process until each blister site is built up to the level of the
surrounding fiberglass. Let the epoxy cure then sand the repairs flush with the
hull. Fair with epoxy fairing compound. Put on bottom paint and go boating.

If you are worried that the boat may continue to blister you will have to
remove all the bottom paint. Then sand the surface thoroughly, apply sufficient
layers of barrier coat to impede water penetration, then reapply bottom paint.
This is a much bigger job. In that case, listen to your father.

Larry Z

Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

In a message dated 8/1/07 12:00:56 AM, Darren writes: > My surveyor tells me that I have approx 60 small (less than golf ball) > blisters on either side of purchase vessel. After a long talk my father suggests > walking from deal as this is a painful repair process. I know I can repair > but it will be messy and cost in materials and hauling. I am planning on going > ahead, but only if this is factored into final price. > > Blister repair is a simple but messy process. It is labor and time intensive. That's why boatyards charge so much. The material cost is almost trivial. My wife and I have repaired boats with as many as 300 blisters, some the size of dinner plates. Before you undertake such a project, get the West blister repair manual and see if you want to do the job. As far as your immediate decision, have the boatyard give you an estimate for blister repair. Then knock the estimate off the asking price and see of the present owner will go for it. If he accepts the deal, here is the drill. For spot repair of the 60 blisters, block up the boat in a location where it can sit undisturbed for a few weeks. Mark every blister with a magic marker. Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of each blister, using a collar around the drill so you don't penetrate the hull. A nasty brown liquid will probably squirt out. Then get a grinder and grind away the surface of each blister with 36 grit paper until you are down to intact fiberglass. Be carefull, don't grind through the hull. When you are finished, wash the cavities with several changes of water, then go away for several weeks to let the fiberglass dry out. Better to move the boat to Arizona but that is usually impractical. When dry, paint each cavity with epoxy resin to seal the fiberglass. Cut a number of discs out of 10 oz. fiberglass cloth in varying sizes ranging from the diameter of the largest blisters, decreasing in size by half inch increments. Now for the real work. Wet each blister cavity with epoxy resin. Before the resin sets place a small fiberglass disc in the hole of each cavity. Then go around the boat wetting each cavity again and place the next larger size disc in the blister site. Continue the process until each blister site is built up to the level of the surrounding fiberglass. Let the epoxy cure then sand the repairs flush with the hull. Fair with epoxy fairing compound. Put on bottom paint and go boating. If you are worried that the boat may continue to blister you will have to remove all the bottom paint. Then sand the surface thoroughly, apply sufficient layers of barrier coat to impede water penetration, then reapply bottom paint. This is a much bigger job. In that case, listen to your father. Larry Z ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

JB

John Blackburn

Wed, Aug 1, 2007 6:25 PM

To give you a price point, during our pre-purchase survey we found that
our 44 DeFever was completely covered with blisters ranging in size from
a dine to half the size of my little finger nail. It looked like it had
measles. Osprey Marine Composites in Herrington Harbor North (on the
Chesapeake) completely peeled the bottom, added a layer of fiberglass,
barrier coated, faired and bottom paint for $16k four years ago. We had
the price before we closed and had an accommodation from the PO.

I would recommend Osprey for any work of this sort.

John Blackburn
44 DeFever "Yak Rack"
Deale, MD

LRZeitlin@aol.com wrote:

In a message dated 8/1/07 12:00:56 AM, Darren writes:

My surveyor tells me that I have approx 60 small (less than golf ball) 
blisters on either side of purchase vessel. After a long talk my father suggests 
walking from deal as this is a painful repair process. I know I can repair 
but it will be messy and cost in materials and hauling. I am planning on going 
ahead, but only if this is factored into final price.

Blister repair is a simple but messy process. It is labor and time intensive.
That's why boatyards charge so much. The material cost is almost trivial. My
wife and I have repaired boats with as many as 300 blisters, some the size of
dinner plates. Before you undertake such a project, get the West blister
repair manual and see if you want to do the job.

As far as your immediate decision, have the boatyard give you an estimate for
blister repair. Then knock the estimate off the asking price and see of the
present owner will go for it.

If he accepts the deal, here is the drill. For spot repair of the 60
blisters, block up the boat in a location where it can sit undisturbed for a few
weeks. Mark every blister with a magic marker. Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of
each blister, using a collar around the drill so you don't penetrate the hull. A
nasty brown liquid will probably squirt out. Then get a grinder and grind
away the surface of each blister with 36 grit paper until you are down to intact
fiberglass. Be carefull, don't grind through the hull. When you are finished,
wash the cavities with several changes of water, then go away for several
weeks to let the fiberglass dry out. Better to move the boat to Arizona but that
is usually impractical. When dry, paint each cavity with epoxy resin to seal
the fiberglass. Cut a number of discs out of 10 oz. fiberglass cloth in varying
sizes ranging from the diameter of the largest blisters, decreasing in size by
half inch increments. Now for the real work.

Wet each blister cavity with epoxy resin. Before the resin sets place a small
fiberglass disc in the hole of each cavity. Then go around the boat wetting
each cavity again and place the next larger size disc in the blister site.
Continue the process until each blister site is built up to the level of the
surrounding fiberglass. Let the epoxy cure then sand the repairs flush with the
hull. Fair with epoxy fairing compound. Put on bottom paint and go boating.

If you are worried that the boat may continue to blister you will have to
remove all the bottom paint. Then sand the surface thoroughly, apply sufficient
layers of barrier coat to impede water penetration, then reapply bottom paint.
This is a much bigger job. In that case, listen to your father.

Larry Z

Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering
To unsubscribe send email to trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word
UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message.

Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

To give you a price point, during our pre-purchase survey we found that our 44 DeFever was completely covered with blisters ranging in size from a dine to half the size of my little finger nail. It looked like it had measles. Osprey Marine Composites in Herrington Harbor North (on the Chesapeake) completely peeled the bottom, added a layer of fiberglass, barrier coated, faired and bottom paint for $16k four years ago. We had the price before we closed and had an accommodation from the PO. I would recommend Osprey for any work of this sort. John Blackburn 44 DeFever "Yak Rack" Deale, MD LRZeitlin@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 8/1/07 12:00:56 AM, Darren writes: My surveyor tells me that I have approx 60 small (less than golf ball) blisters on either side of purchase vessel. After a long talk my father suggests walking from deal as this is a painful repair process. I know I can repair but it will be messy and cost in materials and hauling. I am planning on going ahead, but only if this is factored into final price. Blister repair is a simple but messy process. It is labor and time intensive. That's why boatyards charge so much. The material cost is almost trivial. My wife and I have repaired boats with as many as 300 blisters, some the size of dinner plates. Before you undertake such a project, get the West blister repair manual and see if you want to do the job. As far as your immediate decision, have the boatyard give you an estimate for blister repair. Then knock the estimate off the asking price and see of the present owner will go for it. If he accepts the deal, here is the drill. For spot repair of the 60 blisters, block up the boat in a location where it can sit undisturbed for a few weeks. Mark every blister with a magic marker. Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of each blister, using a collar around the drill so you don't penetrate the hull. A nasty brown liquid will probably squirt out. Then get a grinder and grind away the surface of each blister with 36 grit paper until you are down to intact fiberglass. Be carefull, don't grind through the hull. When you are finished, wash the cavities with several changes of water, then go away for several weeks to let the fiberglass dry out. Better to move the boat to Arizona but that is usually impractical. When dry, paint each cavity with epoxy resin to seal the fiberglass. Cut a number of discs out of 10 oz. fiberglass cloth in varying sizes ranging from the diameter of the largest blisters, decreasing in size by half inch increments. Now for the real work. Wet each blister cavity with epoxy resin. Before the resin sets place a small fiberglass disc in the hole of each cavity. Then go around the boat wetting each cavity again and place the next larger size disc in the blister site. Continue the process until each blister site is built up to the level of the surrounding fiberglass. Let the epoxy cure then sand the repairs flush with the hull. Fair with epoxy fairing compound. Put on bottom paint and go boating. If you are worried that the boat may continue to blister you will have to remove all the bottom paint. Then sand the surface thoroughly, apply sufficient layers of barrier coat to impede water penetration, then reapply bottom paint. This is a much bigger job. In that case, listen to your father. Larry Z ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe send email to trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message. Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

BB

bermy_b@yahoo.com

Wed, Aug 1, 2007 7:02 PM

All appreciated advice; thanks to all.

Darren
Sent from my BlackBerry. device

-----Original Message-----
From: LRZeitlin@aol.com

Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:23:00
To:trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com
Subject: Re: T&T: Blister repair

In a message dated 8/1/07 12:00:56 AM, Darren writes:

My surveyor tells me that I have approx 60 small (less than golf ball)
blisters on either side of purchase vessel. After a long talk my father suggests
walking from deal as this is a painful repair process. I know I can repair
but it will be messy and cost in materials and hauling. I am planning on going
ahead, but only if this is factored into final price.

Blister repair is a simple but messy process. It is labor and time intensive.
That's why boatyards charge so much. The material cost is almost trivial. My
wife and I have repaired boats with as many as 300 blisters, some the size of
dinner plates. Before you undertake such a project, get the West blister
repair manual and see if you want to do the job.

As far as your immediate decision, have the boatyard give you an estimate for
blister repair. Then knock the estimate off the asking price and see of the
present owner will go for it.

If he accepts the deal, here is the drill. For spot repair of the 60
blisters, block up the boat in a location where it can sit undisturbed for a few
weeks. Mark every blister with a magic marker. Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of
each blister, using a collar around the drill so you don't penetrate the hull. A
nasty brown liquid will probably squirt out. Then get a grinder and grind
away the surface of each blister with 36 grit paper until you are down to intact
fiberglass. Be carefull, don't grind through the hull. When you are finished,
wash the cavities with several changes of water, then go away for several
weeks to let the fiberglass dry out. Better to move the boat to Arizona but that
is usually impractical. When dry, paint each cavity with epoxy resin to seal
the fiberglass. Cut a number of discs out of 10 oz. fiberglass cloth in varying
sizes ranging from the diameter of the largest blisters, decreasing in size by
half inch increments. Now for the real work.

Wet each blister cavity with epoxy resin. Before the resin sets place a small
fiberglass disc in the hole of each cavity. Then go around the boat wetting
each cavity again and place the next larger size disc in the blister site.
Continue the process until each blister site is built up to the level of the
surrounding fiberglass. Let the epoxy cure then sand the repairs flush with the
hull. Fair with epoxy fairing compound. Put on bottom paint and go boating.

If you are worried that the boat may continue to blister you will have to
remove all the bottom paint. Then sand the surface thoroughly, apply sufficient
layers of barrier coat to impede water penetration, then reapply bottom paint.
This is a much bigger job. In that case, listen to your father.

Larry Z

Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour

http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering

To unsubscribe send email to
trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word
UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message.

Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World
Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

All appreciated advice; thanks to all. Darren Sent from my BlackBerry. device -----Original Message----- From: LRZeitlin@aol.com Date: Wed, 1 Aug 2007 13:23:00 To:trawlers-and-trawlering@lists.samurai.com Subject: Re: T&T: Blister repair In a message dated 8/1/07 12:00:56 AM, Darren writes: > My surveyor tells me that I have approx 60 small (less than golf ball) > blisters on either side of purchase vessel. After a long talk my father suggests > walking from deal as this is a painful repair process. I know I can repair > but it will be messy and cost in materials and hauling. I am planning on going > ahead, but only if this is factored into final price. > > Blister repair is a simple but messy process. It is labor and time intensive. That's why boatyards charge so much. The material cost is almost trivial. My wife and I have repaired boats with as many as 300 blisters, some the size of dinner plates. Before you undertake such a project, get the West blister repair manual and see if you want to do the job. As far as your immediate decision, have the boatyard give you an estimate for blister repair. Then knock the estimate off the asking price and see of the present owner will go for it. If he accepts the deal, here is the drill. For spot repair of the 60 blisters, block up the boat in a location where it can sit undisturbed for a few weeks. Mark every blister with a magic marker. Drill a 1/8 hole in the center of each blister, using a collar around the drill so you don't penetrate the hull. A nasty brown liquid will probably squirt out. Then get a grinder and grind away the surface of each blister with 36 grit paper until you are down to intact fiberglass. Be carefull, don't grind through the hull. When you are finished, wash the cavities with several changes of water, then go away for several weeks to let the fiberglass dry out. Better to move the boat to Arizona but that is usually impractical. When dry, paint each cavity with epoxy resin to seal the fiberglass. Cut a number of discs out of 10 oz. fiberglass cloth in varying sizes ranging from the diameter of the largest blisters, decreasing in size by half inch increments. Now for the real work. Wet each blister cavity with epoxy resin. Before the resin sets place a small fiberglass disc in the hole of each cavity. Then go around the boat wetting each cavity again and place the next larger size disc in the blister site. Continue the process until each blister site is built up to the level of the surrounding fiberglass. Let the epoxy cure then sand the repairs flush with the hull. Fair with epoxy fairing compound. Put on bottom paint and go boating. If you are worried that the boat may continue to blister you will have to remove all the bottom paint. Then sand the surface thoroughly, apply sufficient layers of barrier coat to impede water penetration, then reapply bottom paint. This is a much bigger job. In that case, listen to your father. Larry Z ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour _______________________________________________ http://lists.samurai.com/mailman/listinfo/trawlers-and-trawlering To unsubscribe send email to trawlers-and-trawlering-request@lists.samurai.com with the word UNSUBSCRIBE and nothing else in the subject or body of the message. Trawlers & Trawlering and T&T are trademarks of Water World Productions. Unauthorized use is prohibited.

trawlers@lists.trawlering.com

Re: T&T: Blister repair