#118 NOW September 9, 2006 1540 (UTC -11 hours Samoa Standard Time) S14016.36 W170041.67 Anchored in Pago Pago Harbour, Temp 91, Wind 0800@18 kts Greetings from Pago Pago, My last few days in Apia were filled with special events relating to the festival. Singing, marching bands and the rhythms of folk dances filled the air. Dozens of stalls provided ethnic food as well as modern day fare. BBQs are big here, and the whiff of everything from chicken, to a couple of roasting pigs slowing cooking over an open fire filled the air. However, the big event was the canoe races. I arose just as the first hint of daylight began to creep into the eastern sky. With my video camera all set up on the dock, I awaited the arrival of the war canoes. The race is about five miles long and finishes in front of the Aggie Grey hotel. I had a perfect location for some great video. Thousands of spectators lined the shoreline, with radios blaring. At precisely 6:00 AM the race started. While the announcer was broadcasting in Samoan, it was obvious from his excited voice that the race got off to a great start. After about 15 minuets, the canoes came into view. As I have mentioned before these long canoes carry 48 paddlers, a drummer beating out the cadence in the bow, and the helmsman at the stern. With amazing speed, they approached the finish line, giving it all they had. Their bright green canoe and matching green t-shirts made for a colorful sight as all 48 paddles in perfect unison pulled them to the finish line. The winner was a group of students from the local catholic school of engineering. A few seconds later, a red canoe crossed the finish line. Third and fourth place was almost a tie with only a few feet separating them. The wining team became instant heroes, and 22,000 talas (about $8,000 US) richer. After the race, I started my departure proceedings. This is just the reverse of arrival with visits to immigration, customs, port authority, and harbormaster. It all went smoothly and I was soon leaving this fascinating country. The passage to American Samoa is about 80 miles making this an overnight cruise. With a full moon and light winds of 5 to 10 knots, I could not have asked for a nicer passage. Along the way, I filled the water tanks with about 200 gallons without a hitch of any kind. I keep checking out this system, fully expecting something to go wrongso far so good. During the night, I slowed the boat down using only 1100 RPM so as to arrive at Pago Pago around 7:30 in the morning. I was directed to tie up to a tugboat near the customs building and await customs. The friendly tug personnel grabbed my lines and secured me to their boat. Customs arrive about an hour later. Four big guys with big dirty, greasy boots boarded the boat. They search the boat as I filled out papers. Shortly after, Quarantine and immigration showed up. The immigration fellow was a friendly sort, and asked for a cup of coffee. We sat and chatted for about 45 minutes. Having been up all night, Im not sure if I made any sense, but it was interesting to hear about his family, job, and America Samoa. Having finally completed all the paperwork I found a good spot to anchor, whereupon I crashed (slept) for a couple of hours. Tomorrow, Dick Denney, an old friend from Salt Lake City days will be flying in from the US. His cheerful, can-do attitude will be greatly appreciated as we head for Hawaii. I wonder if he knows how to cook? Life is a cruise, Larry -- Larry Rick Done Dreamin' Nordhavn 40 #33 Site: http://gricknet.homedns.org/Dads%20Web/doneDreamnHome.htm