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Re: [volt-nuts] Resistance standard

AS
Alan Scrimgeour
Wed, Dec 16, 2009 6:49 AM

Hi Rob,

I'm new to this area but thinking a lot about it lately, so here these a
just ideas rather than any sort of 'inside knowledge'.

I'd be suspicious of any perfumed oil and more inclined to trust
pharmaceutical grade products. The stuff for horses is presumably cheaper
than the human variety, but would it be as pure? It may well be identical. I
don't know if it's capable of absorbing any moisture but you could heat it
to say 140C for a while to drive off volatiles. You could have a small
capsule of silica gel in the sealed resistance box to keep the oil dry.
I think you may have problems casting resistors into blocks of resin. If you
make castings too big the centre of a volume can get very hot and go into
thermal runaway during the curing process. Even with a small casting the
resin will develop mechanical stresses as it sets and shrinks which will be
transfer to your resistors. I would stick to surrounding your resistors with
a fluid, or perhaps a vacuum or gel. I wonder if convection currents within
mineral oil are a source of error? Fumed silica could be blended with it to
increase its viscosity. What about using any oxygen free gas instead of oil?
CO2, Argon, Nitrogen? And are your lower grade resistors really not already
hermetically sealed? Or perhaps they just need a spray with conformal
coating to perfect the seal.

How about avoiding the need for leads and their thermal EMF issues and
instead fitting your (small and light) resistance box with banana plugs so
it can plug straight into a meter for calibration?

The electrical connections may act as thermal leaks into your sealed box.
This can be improved by having connecting leads in thermal contact with the
container over an extended distance both outside and inside the container
and using a coiled connection leading to the resistor within the container.
Not sure if that would impact on the resistance value significantly.

Soldering can have a big effect on a resistor as I found out recently.
Having made such a large investment I would consider the possible advantages
of crimping rather than soldering. If soldering is considered more reliable
I would use home made and very effective heat sinks between the solder point
and the resistor body and try not to let any heat get to them beyond your
85C bake out temperature.

Hope there might be something useful in that lot for you!

Alan

Hi Rob, I'm new to this area but thinking a lot about it lately, so here these a just ideas rather than any sort of 'inside knowledge'. I'd be suspicious of any perfumed oil and more inclined to trust pharmaceutical grade products. The stuff for horses is presumably cheaper than the human variety, but would it be as pure? It may well be identical. I don't know if it's capable of absorbing any moisture but you could heat it to say 140C for a while to drive off volatiles. You could have a small capsule of silica gel in the sealed resistance box to keep the oil dry. I think you may have problems casting resistors into blocks of resin. If you make castings too big the centre of a volume can get very hot and go into thermal runaway during the curing process. Even with a small casting the resin will develop mechanical stresses as it sets and shrinks which will be transfer to your resistors. I would stick to surrounding your resistors with a fluid, or perhaps a vacuum or gel. I wonder if convection currents within mineral oil are a source of error? Fumed silica could be blended with it to increase its viscosity. What about using any oxygen free gas instead of oil? CO2, Argon, Nitrogen? And are your lower grade resistors really not already hermetically sealed? Or perhaps they just need a spray with conformal coating to perfect the seal. How about avoiding the need for leads and their thermal EMF issues and instead fitting your (small and light) resistance box with banana plugs so it can plug straight into a meter for calibration? The electrical connections may act as thermal leaks into your sealed box. This can be improved by having connecting leads in thermal contact with the container over an extended distance both outside and inside the container and using a coiled connection leading to the resistor within the container. Not sure if that would impact on the resistance value significantly. Soldering can have a big effect on a resistor as I found out recently. Having made such a large investment I would consider the possible advantages of crimping rather than soldering. If soldering is considered more reliable I would use home made and very effective heat sinks between the solder point and the resistor body and try not to let any heat get to them beyond your 85C bake out temperature. Hope there might be something useful in that lot for you! Alan
RA
Robert Atkinson
Wed, Dec 16, 2009 7:48 AM

One additional comment on oil or other liquid fillings, don't forget to leave an expansion space. If you dont have some means of allowing for thermal expansion and contraction of the oil you will eventually burst the container. This will either be through gross overpressure or more likely long term fatigue of the joints. The classic way is with metal bellows.

Robert G8RPI.

--- On Wed, 16/12/09, Alan Scrimgeour scrimgap@blueyonder.co.uk wrote:

From: Alan Scrimgeour scrimgap@blueyonder.co.uk
Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Resistance standard
To: volt-nuts@febo.com
Date: Wednesday, 16 December, 2009, 6:49

Hi Rob,

I'm new to this area but thinking a lot about it lately, so here these a just ideas rather than any sort of 'inside knowledge'.

I'd be suspicious of any perfumed oil and more inclined to trust pharmaceutical grade products. The stuff for horses is presumably cheaper than the human variety, but would it be as pure? It may well be identical. I don't know if it's capable of absorbing any moisture but you could heat it to say 140C for a while to drive off volatiles. You could have a small capsule of silica gel in the sealed resistance box to keep the oil dry.
I think you may have problems casting resistors into blocks of resin. If you make castings too big the centre of a volume can get very hot and go into thermal runaway during the curing process. Even with a small casting the resin will develop mechanical stresses as it sets and shrinks which will be transfer to your resistors. I would stick to surrounding your resistors with a fluid, or perhaps a vacuum or gel. I wonder if convection currents within mineral oil are a source of error? Fumed silica could be blended with it to increase its viscosity. What about using any oxygen free gas instead of oil? CO2, Argon, Nitrogen? And are your lower grade resistors really not already hermetically sealed? Or perhaps they just need a spray with conformal coating to perfect the seal.

How about avoiding the need for leads and their thermal EMF issues and instead fitting your (small and light) resistance box with banana plugs so it can plug straight into a meter for calibration?

The electrical connections may act as thermal leaks into your sealed box. This can be improved by having connecting leads in thermal contact with the container over an extended distance both outside and inside the container and using a coiled connection leading to the resistor within the container. Not sure if that would impact on the resistance value significantly.

Soldering can have a big effect on a resistor as I found out recently. Having made such a large investment I would consider the possible advantages of crimping rather than soldering. If soldering is considered more reliable I would use home made and very effective heat sinks between the solder point and the resistor body and try not to let any heat get to them beyond your 85C bake out temperature.

Hope there might be something useful in that lot for you!

Alan


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One additional comment on oil or other liquid fillings, don't forget to leave an expansion space. If you dont have some means of allowing for thermal expansion and contraction of the oil you will eventually burst the container. This will either be through gross overpressure or more likely long term fatigue of the joints. The classic way is with metal bellows. Robert G8RPI. --- On Wed, 16/12/09, Alan Scrimgeour <scrimgap@blueyonder.co.uk> wrote: From: Alan Scrimgeour <scrimgap@blueyonder.co.uk> Subject: Re: [volt-nuts] Resistance standard To: volt-nuts@febo.com Date: Wednesday, 16 December, 2009, 6:49 Hi Rob, I'm new to this area but thinking a lot about it lately, so here these a just ideas rather than any sort of 'inside knowledge'. I'd be suspicious of any perfumed oil and more inclined to trust pharmaceutical grade products. The stuff for horses is presumably cheaper than the human variety, but would it be as pure? It may well be identical. I don't know if it's capable of absorbing any moisture but you could heat it to say 140C for a while to drive off volatiles. You could have a small capsule of silica gel in the sealed resistance box to keep the oil dry. I think you may have problems casting resistors into blocks of resin. If you make castings too big the centre of a volume can get very hot and go into thermal runaway during the curing process. Even with a small casting the resin will develop mechanical stresses as it sets and shrinks which will be transfer to your resistors. I would stick to surrounding your resistors with a fluid, or perhaps a vacuum or gel. I wonder if convection currents within mineral oil are a source of error? Fumed silica could be blended with it to increase its viscosity. What about using any oxygen free gas instead of oil? CO2, Argon, Nitrogen? And are your lower grade resistors really not already hermetically sealed? Or perhaps they just need a spray with conformal coating to perfect the seal. How about avoiding the need for leads and their thermal EMF issues and instead fitting your (small and light) resistance box with banana plugs so it can plug straight into a meter for calibration? The electrical connections may act as thermal leaks into your sealed box. This can be improved by having connecting leads in thermal contact with the container over an extended distance both outside and inside the container and using a coiled connection leading to the resistor within the container. Not sure if that would impact on the resistance value significantly. Soldering can have a big effect on a resistor as I found out recently. Having made such a large investment I would consider the possible advantages of crimping rather than soldering. If soldering is considered more reliable I would use home made and very effective heat sinks between the solder point and the resistor body and try not to let any heat get to them beyond your 85C bake out temperature. Hope there might be something useful in that lot for you! Alan _______________________________________________ volt-nuts mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the instructions there.