At 8 a.m. Saturday morning, we departed Hakatea Bay on Nuku Hiva, enroute
south to Hakahau Bay, on the island of Ua Pou. At mid channel, we were 9-08S
140-07W.  The familiar SE trades are giving us 20 kts on the port bow.

On Thursday, we took an all-day tour of Nuku Hiva, aboard a Land Rover.
This island has steep mountain sides with narrow, winding roads.  Most of
our tour was in four-wheel drive over mud and rocks.  The vistas and remote
villages were very interesting, but it was a long day.  Taipivai Valley, the
setting for Herman Melville's book Typee was memorable.

The botanicals were interesting.  We saw teak and rosewood trees, vast areas
of palms, flowers growing along the road that we had only seen in exotic
florist arrangements.  Fruit bearing trees abounded.  Along mountain ridges
were pine trees all growing in straight rows.  Oh, something was odd.  All
of the above were brought to these islands by settlers at one time or
another.  The mountains were covered with ferns when the first explorers
arrived from southeast Asia.  The pine trees, planted for harvest, grew too
fast for good lumber.  So, they are rarely used.  It is reminiscent of the
eucalyptus trees planted in southern California for railroad ties.

We visited a major archeological site, under a jungle canopy.  Evidence
shows that the early Marquesans followed the usual command and control
organization.  Youngsters reaching puberty were displayed  in ceremonies,
and became fair game.  The unlucky of the community were singled out for
human sacrifice.  Tattoos were a big issue.  Fist-sized holes in stones were
used for grinding the tattoo medium.

The island's population is now at 4,000, down from 60,000 in the 1700's due
mainly to disease brought from Europe.  Communities were based on valley
topography, and wars were constant between neighboring watersheds.
Cannibalism was widespread until the late 1800's.

French administration and Catholic religion has influenced the present
culture in a positive way.  Marquesans we met were polite, clean and
industrious.  Local restaurant cuisine was excellent.  Like many island
economies, it appears to be subsidized to an extent by its sponsor country.

The anchorage at Taiohae was very enjoyable.  At the head, it is about 3/4
mile across.  Our Nordhavn was the only motor cruiser among a field of about
15 sailboats.  We supplemented our food provisions and took on 3,505 liters
or 926 gallons of diesel fuel, to fill our main tanks.  This was the big
city, a population of about 1,500.  From here our journey takes us to
smaller villages, until we reach Tahiti.

Dick and Gail Barnes
Aboard Ice Dancer
Nordhavn 50 #22

Georgs,

Could Dick and Gail share with us how much diesel costs per gallon along the
way? I guess that they will tell us if they have to use drums, etc.

Thank you,
Ron Rogers