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Discussion of precise voltage measurement

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Finally got around to modifying my Fluke 845ab with LED's

MS
Mark Sims
Thu, Sep 11, 2014 5:56 AM

I don't think you will find any white LEDs that are based upon UV LEDs.  UV LEDs are horribly inefficient.  All white LEDs that I know of have a "royal blue" LED as their pump.  The phosphor is typically a YAG based phosphor.
Alsp, the warmer white the LED is,  the less efficient it is.  Same goes for high CRI LEDs.  They need to enhance the output towards the red end of the spectrum...  either using a less efficient phosphor configuration  and/or filtering out the shorter wavelengths.  In some high-CRI leds you can see red/colored particles in the dome/phosphor that filter down the shorter wavelengths.
BTW,  those big royal blue LEDs are insanely bright and your eye is not even very sensitive/responsive to them.  You can damage your eyes and not know it.  Plus there is an effect known as the "blue light hazard."  Be particularly careful with "remote phosphor" lighting LEDs that have damaged/missing phosphor panels.  10+ watts of royal blue goodness can be nasty stuff...  but then, I have designed LED lighting systems that put out 500,000+ lumens of white light into a rather small area...  I'm rather careful around bright LEDs.

I don't think you will find any white LEDs that are based upon UV LEDs. UV LEDs are horribly inefficient. All white LEDs that I know of have a "royal blue" LED as their pump. The phosphor is typically a YAG based phosphor. Alsp, the warmer white the LED is, the less efficient it is. Same goes for high CRI LEDs. They need to enhance the output towards the red end of the spectrum... either using a less efficient phosphor configuration and/or filtering out the shorter wavelengths. In some high-CRI leds you can see red/colored particles in the dome/phosphor that filter down the shorter wavelengths. BTW, those big royal blue LEDs are insanely bright and your eye is not even very sensitive/responsive to them. You can damage your eyes and not know it. Plus there is an effect known as the "blue light hazard." Be particularly careful with "remote phosphor" lighting LEDs that have damaged/missing phosphor panels. 10+ watts of royal blue goodness can be nasty stuff... but then, I have designed LED lighting systems that put out 500,000+ lumens of white light into a rather small area... I'm rather careful around bright LEDs.
CH
Chuck Harris
Thu, Sep 11, 2014 12:10 PM

I just mentioned UV (which are really near UV/violet) pumped white LED's
for completeness.  The UV/violet pumped LED's are the best high CRI LED's
for visual color accuracy... some having CRI's as high as 98.

Some examples are:

http://www.soraa.com/products/qol-landing
http://www.yujiintl.com/high-cri-led-lighting

In any case, we are drifting pretty far from the OP's topic, and my original
comment about the after glow, and between cycle brightness, of white LED's.

-Chuck Harris

Mark Sims wrote:

I don't think you will find any white LEDs that are based upon UV LEDs.  UV LEDs
are horribly inefficient.  All white LEDs that I know of have a "royal blue" LED
as their pump.  The phosphor is typically a YAG based phosphor. Alsp, the warmer
white the LED is,  the less efficient it is.  Same goes for high CRI LEDs.  They
need to enhance the output towards the red end of the spectrum...  either using a
less efficient phosphor configuration  and/or filtering out the shorter
wavelengths.  In some high-CRI leds you can see red/colored particles in the
dome/phosphor that filter down the shorter wavelengths. BTW,  those big royal blue
LEDs are insanely bright and your eye is not even very sensitive/responsive to
them.  You can damage your eyes and not know it.  Plus there is an effect known as
the "blue light hazard."  Be particularly careful with "remote phosphor" lighting
LEDs that have damaged/missing phosphor panels.  10+ watts of royal blue goodness
can be nasty stuff...  but then, I have designed LED lighting systems that put out
500,000+ lumens of white light into a rather small area...  I'm rather careful
around bright LEDs. _______________________________________________ volt-nuts
mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the
instructions there.

I just mentioned UV (which are really near UV/violet) pumped white LED's for completeness. The UV/violet pumped LED's are the best high CRI LED's for visual color accuracy... some having CRI's as high as 98. Some examples are: <http://www.soraa.com/products/qol-landing> <http://www.yujiintl.com/high-cri-led-lighting> In any case, we are drifting pretty far from the OP's topic, and my original comment about the after glow, and between cycle brightness, of white LED's. -Chuck Harris Mark Sims wrote: > I don't think you will find any white LEDs that are based upon UV LEDs. UV LEDs > are horribly inefficient. All white LEDs that I know of have a "royal blue" LED > as their pump. The phosphor is typically a YAG based phosphor. Alsp, the warmer > white the LED is, the less efficient it is. Same goes for high CRI LEDs. They > need to enhance the output towards the red end of the spectrum... either using a > less efficient phosphor configuration and/or filtering out the shorter > wavelengths. In some high-CRI leds you can see red/colored particles in the > dome/phosphor that filter down the shorter wavelengths. BTW, those big royal blue > LEDs are insanely bright and your eye is not even very sensitive/responsive to > them. You can damage your eyes and not know it. Plus there is an effect known as > the "blue light hazard." Be particularly careful with "remote phosphor" lighting > LEDs that have damaged/missing phosphor panels. 10+ watts of royal blue goodness > can be nasty stuff... but then, I have designed LED lighting systems that put out > 500,000+ lumens of white light into a rather small area... I'm rather careful > around bright LEDs. _______________________________________________ volt-nuts > mailing list -- volt-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to > https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/volt-nuts and follow the > instructions there. >