I forgot if it's Shurflo or Par or Jabsco. It has a "VSV" in the name. I have it on our trawler and it is awesome! It solved all our problems with surging etc. Hans "Aqua Vitae" ----- Original Message ----- From: "trawler-world-list" <owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com> To: <trawler-world-list-digest@samurai.com> Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 12:00 AM Subject: trawler-world-list V5 #300 > > trawler-world-list Thursday, April 25 2002 Volume 05 : Number 300 > > > > TWL: Boat Mold Plug Construction > Re: TWL: Using computers in bright light > Re: TWL: transducer removal > TWL: RE: Re: Dock hoses > Re: TWL: Dock hoses > Re: TWL: Dock hoses > TWL: New style pressure water pump > TWL: Dock Hoses > TWL: Potable water filter > TWL: Window tinting > TWL: Using computers in bright light > TWL: Documentation Renewal > TWL: Interim trawler > TWL: Shipping a boat to Hawaii??? > TWL: Side deck awnings > Re: TWL: Documentation Renewal - A Follow-up > Re: TWL: Documentation Renewal - A Follow-up > RE: TWL: Thanks and a whole slew of new issues/watermakers > Fwd: TWL: New style pressure water pump > TWL: waterproofing canvas > TWL: Benmar autopilot electric clutch > TWL: WhisperGen > TWL: Re: Potable water filter > TWL: Side deck awnings and puller and why you should have one. > TWL: Re: Latex Paint > Re: TWL: Re: Latex Paint > TWL: Overhead > TWL: Re: Documentation Renewal > TWL: Re: Charts > Re: TWL: Overhead > Re: TWL: Re: Charts > TWL: door skins > TWL: RE: door skins > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:10:43 -0700 > From: "George Brooks, N7HPE" <gbrooks@ncia.com> > Subject: TWL: Boat Mold Plug Construction > > I never cease to be surprised at the variety of industries in our out in the > sticks area of NW Washington State. The weekend before last I toured the > close by Nordic Tug factory. Tonight a friend asked me to join him at an > American Society of Mechanical Engineers (ASME) meeting in Sedro-Woolley, WA > . The meeting was 15 miles from home at Janicki Industries. > > Among other things these folks build the plugs from which the molds are made > for hull, deck, cabin and other boat parts. Plugs are made by building a > wood core and then applying a special putty to the core several inches > thick. They then use a computer controlled 5 axis milling machine to > machine the surface of the putty to the exact final desired shape of the > plug. The amazing thing was the size of the cores and milling machine. > Their largest unit can mill one-piece plugs as large as 88' by 20' by 8'. A > few of their marine customers mentioned were Delta Marine, Northern Marine, > Bayliner, and Carver. They have built multi-piece plugs for hulls in the > range of 150' long. Tonight we saw a plug being machined for a mega-yacht > radar arch. > > They have a website at http://www.janicki.com/ . You can see some pictures > of their activities. No connection, didn't even know they existed until > today. > > Regards, > > George Brooks > Nereid V > La Conner, WA , USA > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:37:43 -0700 > From: "Mike Schooley" <schooley@keyway.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Using computers in bright light > > Ian wrote, "What is the ralationship between nits and Contrast Ratio??" > > There isn't any relationship it is like comparing color and weight or volume > and horse power. The contrast ratio is the ratio of light emitted when the > screen is white to the light emitted when it is black. This is usually rated > in a dark room with the intensity turned down very low. At high intensity > levels the contrast ratio is much lower. Very few companies rate their > displays at high backlight levels. > > Cheers; > Mike Schooley > Designing "Portager" a 36 foot trailerable trawler > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2002 22:32:34 -0400 > From: jag@vcn.bc.ca (John Gallagher) > Subject: Re: TWL: transducer removal > > >I'm doing the annual haul out thing starting this weekend (I'll be out > >for about a week) and one of my projects is to remove a transducer that > >serves an old Furuno colour sounder. It is mounted about amid ships, > > Gregg > > This type of repair is usually done all on the inside if possible. Dish > out / bevel the holes on the inside. Cut several pieces of fibreglass mat > and wowen roving to fit in the bevelled out holes i.e the pieces will > increase in size, the largest, in your case will probably cover all three > holes. The hull is probably .5" or so thick so you will need a few pieces. > Sand off the bottom paint immediately around the holes on the outside and > tape waxpaper, saran wrap etc over the holes. From the inside saturate > your cut pieces with resin/cold cure and place them in / over the holes. > > John > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 17:28:50 +0800 > From: "Nunas" <Nunas@pacific.net.sg> > Subject: TWL: RE: Re: Dock hoses > > We have a number of filters on AKAMA, which we use singly or in > combination, depending on the circumstances. They are all standard > 10-inch filters. > > On the main water line, right after the accumulator tank we have a dual > filter and UV sterilizer. The first filter is a string filter and the > second is a carbon block. The UV sterilizer is a lamp in a test tube > suspended in the centre of the carbon block filter. We LOVE the "taste" > of our water, since it has none. This used to be only on the kitchen > sink, but we prefer to be able to drink the water from any tap. > > The water maker has a carbon block filter between it and the water > tanks. > > Portable String filter: This is the stalwart of our filing filters. We > ALWAYS put this in the line right at the tap, regardless of the supposed > quality of the tap water. You'd be amazed how often it catches crud. > After we use it, we back flush it, put in a cap full of Clorox, and fill > it with water. > > Portable carbon block filter: This has two uses. First, if the tap > water smells it goes in right after the string filter. Also, when we > back-flush the water maker, the carbon filter is inserted between the > pressure water (usually our from our on-board pressure system) and the > water maker. > > We have a 75' hose, a 50' hose and several other bits and pieces. All > are ordinary garden hoses of one sort or another except he 50-footer, > which is a food-grade hose (no taste imparted to the water). All of them > and the two portable filters have click-on (Gardena, etc.) connectors, > instead of the usual screw on ones. We also have three coil-hoses in > strategic spots, used exclusively for their intended purpose, such as > wash down (never added to the other hoses to fill the tanks). > > We also have a box of various tap adapters with click-on terminations, > and a bunch of miscellaneous connectors, so that we can cut a piece of > hose and make up an adapter as needed (not usually needed). > > M > > - -----Original Message----- > From: owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com > [mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com] On Behalf Of Scott > Strickland > Sent: Tuesday, 23 April 2002 22:28 > To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com > Subject: TWL: Re: Dock hoses > > What are poeples experiences with filters on the garden hose used to > fill > the water tank? > Should there be a carbon filter in line with the garden hose--which > removes > the chlorine, or should the carbon filter be added at the sink? > Usually you would want to leave the chlorine in the tank. > > My tanks will be Fiberglass. > > > Thanks for the idea about having spare pieces of hose ready to build > Europe > adapters. > What sizes have people used in the Med? > Do I really need the different sizes of hose 1/2", 5/8" and 3/4"? > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:35:38 -0400 > From: "Charles Monroe" <chasmnro@bestweb.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Dock hoses > > Beware of using the cheap, yellow "quick disconnect" fittings. I > fitted one on the nozzle end, connected my new nozzle, went over > turned the water on, and ZOOM my nozzle flew about 20' out into the > water. Damn nozzle didn't know how to swim either which was not > really unique as I've found out that few tools know how. SOB!. 8^( > Charles Monroe > Ebb Tide, 1979 Marine Trader, 34', DC > Pt. Patience Marina, Solomons, MD. > > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: <GeorgGeist@aol.com> > To: <scotts@advret.com>; <trawler-world-list@samurai.com> > Sent: Sunday, April 21, 2002 10:57 AM > Subject: Re: TWL: Dock hoses > <<< snip>>> > Also you see more and more people having quick connect fittings on > their hoses and attachments even > thugh most marina outlets have standard screw-on taps. > >>>snip>>> > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 08:19:34 -0400 > From: Bob McLeran <rmcleran@ix.netcom.com> > Subject: Re: TWL: Dock hoses > > I've been using those yellow quick connect fittings for a number of > years, at home as well as on Sanderling. I've only had them "fly off" > when I didn't seat them properly - have to make sure they're pushed into > the complimentary fitting as far as they will go, then try to pull them > apart. If they won't pull apart by hand, they won't "fly off" when you > turn on the water. > > Charles Monroe wrote: > > > > Beware of using the cheap, yellow "quick disconnect" fittings. I > > fitted one on the nozzle end, connected my new nozzle, went over > > turned the water on, and ZOOM my nozzle flew about 20' out into the > > - -- > Bob McLeran mailto://rmcleran@ix.netcom.com > M/V "Sanderling" Docked at Point Patience Marina > Hailing port: Wianno MA Solomons, MD > Hampton 35 Trawler > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 08:23:04 -0400 > From: "hknott4@comcast.net" <hknott4@comcast.net> > Subject: TWL: New style pressure water pump > > I remember a couple of comments about a new style of potable water system pump. I think it was said to be quieter and va= > ried it's speed depending on demand. Can someone give me a little more info on this pump, including manufacturer, model = > no. and maybe a catalogue reference? > > Thanks, > > - -Mel > > - -------------------------------------------------------------------- > mail2web - Check your email from the web at > http://mail2web.com/ . > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:37:38 -0500 > From: Keith <klemmons@airmail.net> > Subject: TWL: Dock Hoses > > Scott wrote: "What are poeples experiences with filters on the garden > hose used to fill > the water tank? > Should there be a carbon filter in line with the garden hose--which > removes > the chlorine, or should the carbon filter be added at the sink? > Usually you would want to leave the chlorine in the tank." > ______________________ > We had a discussion on this awhile back. I personally think you should > put a filter at the tap and leave the chlorine in the tank. That's what > I do. I use a PUR filter at the kitchen sink tap, and it works great. If > you have sediment from your dock water, you probably have other problems > with it as well. > - -- > __________________ > Keith > AAAAAA: American Association Against Acronym Abuse and Ambiguity. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:40:35 -0500 > From: Keith <klemmons@airmail.net> > Subject: TWL: Potable water filter > > Bob wrote: "The water is so soft, the first mate dislikes taking showers > and washing > her hair onboard because a soap scum/film always seems to remain. The > water happens to be naturally soft - no "water softener" needed - and > the marina's heads have the same problem. Otherwise, the water is fine - > no odors or noticeably bad taste. " > _______________________ > Bob, I think you've got it backwards. "Hard" water is what causes > soap/scum film to remain. It's full of minerals. You need to "soften" > the water with a water softener unit of some type. They use salt > tablets, and can be found at most Sears stores or other hardware places. > I've never had to mess with one, so I don't know about the availability > of units that would be properly sized for the boat. You could also look > in the yellow pages under water conditioning or something like that, or > look up "Culligan" in the white pages. I think they're pretty much > everywhere. > - -- > __________________ > Keith > Leaving the dock is optional. Returning is mandatory. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:45:47 -0500 > From: Keith <klemmons@airmail.net> > Subject: TWL: Window tinting > > Bob and Vicki wrote: "We are interested in reducing the amount of heat > and UV rays in our saloon. > We drive the boat from there, so we do not want a tint, but rather a > film of > some sort that would do this. We would like it to be as "clear" as > possible." > ______________________________ > Kind of mutually exclusive. You can cut out some of the UV with window > tinting films that contain UV screeners/inhibitors, but they won't do > much to keep heat out. I have laminated, tinted glass in my PH from the > factory, so I don't see any problem with using a tinting film on > laminated glass. I imagine the warning was based on heating up the > laminate, but hey... car windshields get plenty hot and don't > delaminate. You could look for some screening film at Home Depot, or on > the web. I would suggest you put it on just one window first, and see > how it works and how your night vision is. > > Another option is to get the roll-down tint shades that the tugboats > use. I'm looking into these right now, but don't have a price quote yet. > http://metromarine.com/ > - -- > __________________ > Keith > A good plan executed right now is far better than a perfect plan > executed next week." - George S. Patton > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:49:30 -0500 > From: Keith <klemmons@airmail.net> > Subject: TWL: Using computers in bright light > > Todd wrote: "I've been testing some different computer systems in my > pilothouse to see > how well they work with bright sunlight. I have found one that works > well. > But the expense - "Mother of Pearl!" as Robin would say. I'm wondering > if > anyone has tried this product on their boats: > > http://www.compushade.com/how.htm" > ___________________________________________________ > I looked at those various products, and ended up making a couple myself > from flat black craft board obtained at Office Depot. The board was > about $3 plus some sticky velcro, and I have two foldable, stowable > light shields. Even cut a piece to sit over the keyboard to stop > reflected light from bouncing up on the monitor. I'll send anyone who's > interested the cutting diagrams. It's a bit tricky and I learned after a > couple of tries. > - -- > __________________ > Keith > A loser is a window washer on the 44th floor who steps back to admire > his work.. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 07:53:58 -0500 > From: Keith <klemmons@airmail.net> > Subject: TWL: Documentation Renewal > > Wayne wrote: Question to owners of USCG Documented Vessels: Have you > sent in the renewal, > but was later sent a letter, saying your renewal was not received and > that > you owed a $5.00 fee for processing a late renewal? > > We did. We had sent the renewal back immediately upon receiving the > letter to > renew the documentation. There were no changes, so I just signed and > dated it > and sent it back as required. > > We have now sent the late renewal in, with the $5.00 late fee, so > supposedly > all is well. > > I am curious if this is a "widespread problem" or if I am just unlucky > to > have the letter get lost somewhere. > ______________________________________ > I just sent my two in. One was delivered right back to my PO Box. The > darned form that the USCG is using now is really stupid. For those of > you who haven't seen it, you fill out your information, fold and staple > it, and mail it. Well, the USCG's address is on one side, and yours is > on the other! Guess where the post office delivered mine? To my po box, > on the opposite side from where the stamp was. I sure hope they figure > this problem out and fix it soon. Also, the flimsy construction of this > "mailer" probably lends itself to getting torn up by the machinery at > the PO, what with thin paper, and staples or tape on it. Cheesy. > - -- > __________________ > Keith > "I'm not allowed to comment on lousy officiating." > - -Jim Finks, New Orleans Saints G.M., when asked after a loss > what he thought of the refs, 1986 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 08:02:38 -0500 > From: Keith <klemmons@airmail.net> > Subject: TWL: Interim trawler > > Frank wrote: "However, it is a 15 Knot Delta where we live and just > to get from Sacramento to Monterey is over 225 nautical miles. We could > do > such a weekend trip in something like a Mainship 390 or a Nordhavn > Coastal > Pilot (35 footer)." > __________________________________ > Not a bad plan, but keep in mind boat value/depreciation. When I last > ran the numbers, you pretty much had to keep a new boat for five years > to make financial sense. That's about when the depreciation curve > flattens out. If you're going to own a boat for less than three years, > I'd try to buy one 3-8 years old or so. Too new, and you'll take a > financial hit on the sale. Too old, and you'll be spending lots of money > for upgrades/maintenance for the benefit of the new owner. Good luck! > - -- > __________________ > Keith > If at first you don't succeed, try management. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:18:44 -0400 > From: "Pisciotta, Peter P, RTLSL" <pisciotta@att.com> > Subject: TWL: Shipping a boat to Hawaii??? > > A friend with a PT 38 is moving to Hawaii. He has received some pretty = > astronomical estimates for shipping it (up to $50K). Anyone have any = > bright ideas on getting this beast across the Pacific? > > Thanks in advance- > > Peter > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 11:37:57 -0400 > From: Captain Al Pilvinis <yourcaptain@earthlink.net> > Subject: TWL: Side deck awnings > > At 08:52 AM 4/24/02 -0400, you wrote: > > > >Thanks, Al. Simple, but elegant! Was it originally your design? > > > >Al, you may have also shared before the details of your side-deck awnings. > If so, would you share them again? I'm guessing that one edge is slid > into a slotted track and they are rolled up and tied when not in use? > Also, do you also have them over the front saloon windows? > ======================================================== > Not my design on the puller Mel, it was copied from a commercial unit only > made much cheaper. > The Awnings have a little tab with a zipper that slides into a slot, so > that I can zip the shades off instead of having to pull the whole rig out > of the slot. They are also able to be rolled up when not in use and have > tabs to hold them up. I have awnings for the front also. I'll see if I can > find a good picture showing the front and side awnings. These are my > design......... > I hope you don't mind me putting this on the net for I had a lot of > inquiries the last time I posted it, and now with summer coming I think a > lot of people wish they had these coolers. > . > Captain Al Pilvinis > > "M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47 > 2630 N.E. 41st Street > Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064 > Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666 > Email yourcaptain@earthlink.net > Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:36:18 EDT > From: Albin43Tr@aol.com > Subject: Re: TWL: Documentation Renewal - A Follow-up > > 'lo All, > > Just before I sent out the original email about this, I had called the 800 > number on the form. It is for a vary convoluted voice mail system. I was on > hold for about 10-15 minutes before I even got into the system (a good reason > to have a speaker phone). I gave them my phone number and problem. > > This morning, a very pleasant lady called, identifying herself as from the > USCG Documentation Office. I told her what had happened; that I had sent the > renewal form in when I received it and that I had also sent the late form in > with the required $5.00. She informed me that they had been having quite a > few complaints about the renewal forms not being delivered to the boat owner > as well as not getting the forms back even though the owners stated that they > had mailed them. I told her I knew that other folks had problems with their > system (thanks to the TWLers) and that the problem needed to be addressed. > She said that she would relay my comments to her supervisors and that I > should get the renewal certificate (or whatever it is) by next Wednesday. > > Apparently, a lot of folks were having problems with the little stickers not > sticking permanently to the documentation papers, which is why they went to > the new system. Heck, I couldn't even get the old ones off of the old version > of the documentation papers, so they just piled up about 1/4" thick. I > haven't seen the new replacement for the stamp/sticker, so cannot comment on > it. > > Anyway, I was pleasantly surprised by the (?young?) lady's pleasantness and > candor. Nice to call Uncle Sam, leave a message, actually get called back, > and the person calling back not be a self-important bureaucrat. She made a > nice start for the day! :) > > Wayne > M/V Celestial > Albin 43 Sundeck > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:52:13 -0400 > From: Ron Rogers <rcrogers6@comcast.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Documentation Renewal - A Follow-up > > It is my understanding that this process is administered by a contractor for > USCG. Hard to tell whether you got to a government employee or a contractor. > My experience is that most people in West Virginia are a pleasure to work > with. > > Ron Rogers > > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: <Albin43Tr@aol.com> > To: <trawler-world-list@samurai.com> > Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 12:36 PM > Subject: Re: TWL: Documentation Renewal - A Follow-up > > > > This morning, a very pleasant lady called, identifying herself as from the > > USCG Documentation Office. <SNIP> > > > Anyway, I was pleasantly surprised by the (?young?) lady's pleasantness > and > > candor. Nice to call Uncle Sam, leave a message, actually get called back, > > and the person calling back not be a self-important bureaucrat. She made a > > nice start for the day! :) > > > > Wayne > > M/V Celestial > > Albin 43 Sundeck > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 09:55:38 -0700 > From: "Jennifer Hamilton" <jenh@microsoft.com> > Subject: RE: TWL: Thanks and a whole slew of new issues/watermakers > > I agree wholeheartedly with Bob. We are basically in the same situation- > we are both working full-time and have limited vacation time, but would > one day like to have an ocean-capable vessel. Our current boat is more > than adequate for the coastal cruising that we do and being capable of > 16-17 knots means that we can get places fast which is really important > when you only have a limited amount of time to travel. We use the boat > all year and have run more than a thousand hours in just over two years. > I expect we wouldn't get nearly as much use out of it if our range was > heavily restricted by travel time. And you will definitely learn a ton > by owning any boat - everything from navigation to onboard systems to > space requirements to what kind of cruising you like to do. So think > hard about what will work for you now and then you can enjoy it know and > start learning and planning for the future. But consider carefully your > first purchase too, as you want to make sure that it will be comfortable > enough (space, equipment, range, etc) for the kind of cruising you > anticipate doing in the near future so that you enjoy it. > =20 > Jennifer Hamilton > M/V Dirona > Seattle, WA > > - -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Austin [mailto:thataway4@cox.net]=20 > Sent: Tuesday, April 23, 2002 8:26 PM > To: fxw@gwgi2010.com > Cc: 1trawler world > Subject: Re: TWL: Thanks and a whole slew of new issues/watermakers > > I think that you are wise to get experience in a smaller boat until you > are > ready for THE trip or retirement. > My philosophy is to purchase a boat that does the job best for what you > want > to do currently. When taking long trips purchase the boat that is best > for > that--for local trips the boat that is best for that. You will learn a > lot > from any boat you own--and gain confidence. Perhaps your idea of what > you > want to do will change and you will learn more about the different types > of > boats. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 10:27:45 -0700 > From: Frank Osborne <Frank.Osborne@verizon.net> > Subject: Fwd: TWL: New style pressure water pump > > > > >I remember a couple of comments about a new style of potable water system > >pump. I think it was said to be quieter and varied it's speed depending > >on demand. Can someone give me a little more info on this pump, including > >manufacturer, model no. and maybe a catalogue reference? > > > >Thanks, > > > >-Mel > > Mel, > You are referring to the Jabsco Sensor-Max VSD, > http://www.jabsco.com/sensormaxvsd.pdf. I just put one on our boat and it's > so quite you can not even tell it's running from anywhere except in the > engine room where you can hear a soft purring sound. We got the model 17 > with 4.5 gpm and the water pressure is very strong and constant, no > pulsing. No accumulator tank is needed because the variable speed motor > changes speed to match the demand. The only downside to it is that with the > standard pumps, if you had a slow leak or someone left a faucet on, you > would hear the pump cycling. With this pump you'd never hear it, it would > just run at a very slow speed, forever. Ever since we had a fitting pop off > the bottom of a faucet and the pump tried to empty the entire contents of > the water tanks, 360 gal, into the aft head cabinet, we try to remember to > always turn the water pump off at the breaker before we leave the boat. > > Frank Osborne & Linda Penwarden > 'Island Fever', 44 Defever > http://www.OsborneConsulting.com/IslandFever/IslandFever_Main.htm > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 12:31:49 -0500 > From: "Robert Firehammer" <rsf@charter.net> > Subject: TWL: waterproofing canvas > > Any suggestion as to the type of waterproofing spray I should use on my > older canvas top and sidecurtains? > > Robert Firehammer > NE Wisc > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:48:57 -0400 > From: "Bill Blackburn" <probe@binghamton.edu> > Subject: TWL: Benmar autopilot electric clutch > > Dear Listees, > I am trying to locate an electric clutch for a Benmar CS21 or CC220, Type M > Power Unit of late 1970's/early 1980's vintage. I checked with Benmar; they > don't have them. Anybody out there have or know of any old Benmar take-outs > or parts laying around? Thanks in advance for any leads. > Regards, > Bill > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 13:59:12 -0400 > From: Terry Hoy <THOY@TELE-CONNECT.COM> > Subject: TWL: WhisperGen > > This is a follow-up to a thread from the beginning of the month. I = > received > this e-mail today. . 13 BU's seems steep for the size of the system. > Spring Lake, MI is close to me so I may have a chance to visit them in = > the > near future > > Terry Hoy > > Victron Energy announces North american operations > > > Chris Carli, Managing Director, Victron Energy B.V. = > (www.victronenergy.com > <http://www.victronenergy.com>) an international leader in the design = > and > manufacture of power supply=92s, chargers, inverters, combined chargers = > and > inverters, battery management controllers and instrumentation, etc. > announces the opening of their North American Operations and the = > appointment > of 35-year industry veteran, Bob Kress as its General Manager. Bob=92s > previous experience includes operations management, marketing, sales, > product development and design with Charles Industries, Attwood = > Corporation, > LIPS Propellers, Michigan Wheel Corporation and the Defense Space = > Division > of Chrysler Corporation.=20 > > Victron Energy=92s Worldwide Headquarters with some of its = > manufacturing > facilities are based in the Netherlands. Other manufacturing facilities = > are > located in India. Reinout Vader, Chairman of Victron Energy BV began = > his > entrepreneurial career in 1975 by starting Victron BV, while pursuing a > graduate degree in physics. In 1980 he expanded his operations to = > include > design and manufacturing of UPS systems. This company soon became a = > leading > supplier of UPS systems to European and Asian banks. In 1996 Victron = > merged > with InvertoMatic of Switzerland, forming a new company IMV = > (www.imv.com > <http://www.imv.com>) at the same time Victron Energy became an = > independent > company by separating itself from IMV . In July of this year IMV was > acquired by General Electric Digital Energy. Other sales offices of = > Victron > Energy are located in the UK, France, and now with the North American > Operation located in the Great Lakes region, specifically Spring Lake = > MI as > Victron Energy pursues it=92s ambitious plans for continued growth. > > The North American Operation (www.victronenergy-USA.com > <http://www.victronenergy-USA.com>) will be responsible for developing = > new > product and integrating these with other proven Victron Energy products = > into > customer driven marketable intelligent AC and DC systems. Voltage and > frequency conversion equipment with integral isolation transformers, = > network > compatible microprocessor controlled chargers and inverters (standalone = > or > combined). In addition Victron offers micro co-generation systems = > providing > heat and power the WhisperGen. A demo installation is located at the = > USA > offices. This new office will serve the North American automotive, = > specialty > and heavy duty truck, recreational vehicle, industrial, marine, remote = > site > and alternative energy markets. > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 14:03:50 -0400 > From: "John Gaquin" <jgaquin@earthlink.net> > Subject: TWL: Re: Potable water filter > > - ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Keith" <klemmons@airmail.net> > > > _______________________ > > Bob, I think you've got it backwards. "Hard" water is what causes > > soap/scum film to remain. > > No, I know exactly what Bob means. Hard water will leave a mineral buildup > on your shower walls, but soft will make you feel "filmy". When you have > very soft water, you can rinse til the cows come home, and you'll still feel > as if you've got a soap film on your skin. No "squeaky clean" feeling from > that shower, even though you are, in fact, quite clean. I grew up with such > a water supply (Boston), and never noticed it, until I joined the AF and > went to a place that actually had some mineral content in the water. Wow!! > I could completely rinse in the shower in only 4 seconds! > > JG > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 15:03:08 -0400 > From: Captain Al Pilvinis <yourcaptain@earthlink.net> > Subject: TWL: Side deck awnings and puller and why you should have one. > > Did you ever say to yourself I don't need that tool because I don't know > how to use it or I don't need that propeller puller because I don't dive > and don't have tanks. > > Think about it. If you are off in some secluded area and you need a > propeller changed you might find a guy that could do it if you only had a > puller. If you are anchored away from the world and you need an injector > changed but you know you don't know how to do it, with a spare injector and > if you have the proper tools you may find someone mechanically inclined who > would change it for you. So the next time you say to yourself - I don't > need that tool because I don't know how to use it, if you think it might be > important, take one along - there is someone out there that could probally > do the job for you if only he had the right tools. > > The picture of the side deck and fore deck awnings is at the following site: > > http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain/pix.html > > Stay cool. > . > Captain Al Pilvinis > > "M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47 > 2630 N.E. 41st Street > Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064 > Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666 > Email yourcaptain@earthlink.net > Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 14:39:46 -0700 (PDT) > From: Mark Richter <Richter-Pooh@rocketmail.com> > Subject: TWL: Re: Latex Paint > > For a less-than-yacht finish on boat topsides, I can > highly recommend a two-part epoxy from Sherwin > Williams called "Tile Clad HS". Susanne and I just > completed a topsides repainting on Winnie the Pooh on > Saturday. The Tile-Clad comes in glossy and > "eggshell" finishes; we like the eggshell because it > has great hiding power on less than perfect hulls. We > roll the paint on thickly (it is a very thick > paint)and don't tip. Two gallons did Pooh's topsides > (46'), one coat with a quart left over. > > The only downside to this paint is that it chalks in > sunlight, and will rub off on your skin or clothes, so > don't use it where you will brush up against it. We > paid $36/gal at a Sherwin Williams store in Stuart, > FL. > > Mark > > __________________________________________________ > Do You Yahoo!? > Yahoo! Games - play chess, backgammon, pool and more > http://games.yahoo.com/ > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:05:13 -0400 > From: Captain Al Pilvinis <yourcaptain@earthlink.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Re: Latex Paint > > At 02:39 PM 4/24/02 -0700, you wrote: > >For a less-than-yacht finish on boat topsides, I can > >highly recommend a two-part epoxy from Sherwin > >Williams called "Tile Clad HS". Susanne and I just > >completed a topsides repainting on Winnie the Pooh on > >Saturday. The Tile-Clad comes in glossy and > >"eggshell" finishes; we like the eggshell because it > >has great hiding power on less than perfect hulls. We > >roll the paint on thickly (it is a very thick > >paint)and don't tip. Two gallons did Pooh's topsides > >(46'), one coat with a quart left over. > > > >The only downside to this paint is that it chalks in > >sunlight, and will rub off on your skin or clothes, so > >don't use it where you will brush up against it. We > >paid $36/gal at a Sherwin Williams store in Stuart, > >FL. > > > >Mark > ========================================================= > Well done Mark.........Another upside to chalking paint or gel coat is you > will not get those black rain streaks. This is why they put chalking paint > on a house, self washing. If there is a spot where you come in contact, > wash well and it may be a week or two before it starts chalking again. I > let my gel coat chalk except where I rub against it. Always crisp and > white, but the yachty hi gloss is missing. > Works for me and I'm not wearing away the gel coat with compound and all > that elbow grease............. > > . > Captain Al Pilvinis > > "M/V Driftwood"--Prairie 47 > 2630 N.E. 41st Street > Lighthouse Point, Fl 33064-8064 > Voice 954-941-2556 Fax 954 788-2666 > Email yourcaptain@earthlink.net > Website http://home.earthlink.net/~yourcaptain > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 19:47:10 -0400 > From: "Leonard Brunotte" <LB@myguardian.com> > Subject: TWL: Overhead > > To All: > > We would sincerely appreciate material and fastening advice for a new > headliner. We are replacing our overhead liner and would like to install > fabric covered panels that have matching butt joints. Our questions are: > 1) What type light weight thin material is used for the overhead panels. > 2) What type of fastening system is used to mount the overhead panels. > Again, all help will be truly appreciated. > > Kindest Regards, > > Len Brunotte > > Please Reply: > email - lb@myguardian.com > phone - 321-639-2743 > fax - 321-636-6377 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:17:32 -0400 > From: <awoods@surfbest.net> > Subject: TWL: Re: Documentation Renewal > > > I just sent my two in. One was delivered right back to my PO Box. The > > darned form that the USCG is using now is really stupid. For those of > > you who haven't seen it, you fill out your information, fold and staple > > it, and mail it. Well, the USCG's address is on one side, and yours is > > on the other! Guess where the post office delivered mine? To my po box, > > I didn't like the way this form was working, so I stuffed it into a properly > addressed envelope! > > Andy & Linda Woods > Grand Folly > 1970 Grand Banks 36 Classic > Georgetown, MD > awoods@surfbest.net > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:57:52 -0400 > From: Peggy Carr <chesapklady@comcast.net> > Subject: TWL: Re: Charts > > >>Has anyone any online links to charts for sale for the Pacific Northwest > and on into Alaska. The local chart dealer here in San Diego charges me $20 > a chart which I think is high.<< > > I've never actually tried these people, but the charts that I've found here > (that unfortunately I'd already bought elsewhere) were 10-15% less than what > I paid a couple of weeks ago. > http://www.tidesend.com/ > > Peggy Carr > "Aqua Vitae" > 1986 Albin 43 > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:29:57 -0500 > From: "Bob Austin" <thataway4@cox.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Overhead > > There are a number of headliner materials. One of my favorites is a closed > cell PVC foam on some of the smaller boats as both a headliner and hull > liner. This is about 1/8" in thickness and is very pliable and easily > fastened with contact cements. > > My favorite way of putting headliners up is to put the fabric on 1/8" "door > skins--that have been cut to size, sealed then covered with the fabric of > choice. Then the seams between the pannels is covered with a narrow (1/4" x > 1" wide) teak strip--that is screwed in place with SS screws. These screws > can be covered with teak plugs, but I feel it is best to leave the screw > heads for easy access if the pannels have to be removed. > > With this techinique one can put a layer of insullation between the > headliner and the actual cabin top. > > Defender has material that seems to be the same as the PVC I describe on > page 58, item no. 753089 > > There are a number of materials in Boat U S catalogue page 583. > > Regards, > > Bob Austin > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:42:12 -0500 > From: "Bob Austin" <thataway4@cox.net> > Subject: Re: TWL: Re: Charts > > One thing to remember that if you order these chart replications that they > are xerographic copies that are in black and white. I have used some copies > of charts--but I use marking pens to color blue the edge of the deep water, > yellow for land, and red for rocks and obstructions. > > If you have friends who will loan you charts; U S NOOA charts are not > copyrighted and can be coppied--this may not be true of chart books and some > other national charts. It is inexpensive to have an drafting copy service > make copies. > > I personally usually purchase chart books. > > However at times, I have had the good fortune to have a tug or ship give me > their old charts. These commercial vessels have to have the most recent > version and will give away their old charts. These can be hand corrected to > the most recent Notice to Mariners. The rocks etc don't change. Buoys, > breakwaters, docks etc do change--so use caution. > > Bob Austin > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 22:25:42 -0500 > From: "Bob Austin" <thataway4@cox.net> > Subject: TWL: door skins > > I have had several inquiries as to what a "door skin is". Door skins are > three laminate layer plywood 3mm or 1/8" thick. These are the size of a > door and used to reface doors. 6'8" in height and anywhere from 2 to 3 feet > in width. The wood is usually blemish free, the laminates are without voids > and glue is exterior glue. Many are Luan a Philipine mahagony--some are > birch. > > I find that the smaller size is easier to work with than the 4x8 sheets of > thin plywood--and less expensive. > > These also make good templates or "tic" boards for making bulkheads etc. (a > "tic" board uses lines, measurements and straight battens to outline an > irregular shape such as a bulkhead). > > Regards, > > Bob Austin > > ------------------------------ > > Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2002 20:41:15 -0700 > From: "Doug Barnard" <dbarnard@virtualacreage.com> > Subject: TWL: RE: door skins > > > [mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com]On Behalf Of Bob Austin > > Sent: Wednesday, April 24, 2002 8:26 PM > > > These also make good templates or "tic" boards for making > > bulkheads etc. (a > > "tic" board uses lines, measurements and straight battens to outline an > > irregular shape such as a bulkhead). > > I look in back of bicycle shops for my pattern material. Am I cheap, or > what! Also, you can use a razor point Pilot pen on cardboard to get a > super-thin line. > > db > > ------------------------------ > > End of trawler-world-list V5 #300 > ********************************* >

Oh Hans-are you ever in for a ration of S--T. Just wait a minute and you'll see what I mean. Clarence Bell -----Original Message----- From: owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com [mailto:owner-trawler-world-list@samurai.com]On Behalf Of Hans J. Bjarno Sent: Thursday, April 25, 2002 4:35 PM To: trawler-world-list@samurai.com; trawler-world-list-digest@samurai.com Subject: TWL: Re: trawler-world-list V5 #300