Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt Supply
Well, this thread caused me to dig out a Girard-Perregaux
Gyromatic 39 jewel self-winder that my father gave me in the
late fifties, after his trip to Switzerland.
To your point, the face just has five horizontal lines that
cross it. There are no numbers except for the day window.
The ends of the lines mark the hours. It has a second hand.
There are no marks at 6 and 12.
Sadly, the dial "crystal" is acrylic, and badly scratched.
But maybe that would work for you to make things even fuzzier
- if, that is, the watch was for sale.
Bill Hawkins
(who would not like to show up for a train on the wrong
side of the 10 minute tolerance.)
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Forster
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 2:05 PM
----- snip -----
Since then, I've discovered I really don't need to know time
to much better than +/- 10 minutes.
FWIW,
-John
Your GP could very likely be restored to pristine condition. Wouldn't be
cheap, though.
OTOH, a GP isn't cheap.
On Wed, Feb 16, 2011 at 3:37 PM, Bill Hawkins bill@iaxs.net wrote:
Well, this thread caused me to dig out a Girard-Perregaux
Gyromatic 39 jewel self-winder that my father gave me in the
late fifties, after his trip to Switzerland.
To your point, the face just has five horizontal lines that
cross it. There are no numbers except for the day window.
The ends of the lines mark the hours. It has a second hand.
There are no marks at 6 and 12.
Sadly, the dial "crystal" is acrylic, and badly scratched.
But maybe that would work for you to make things even fuzzier
- if, that is, the watch was for sale.
Bill Hawkins
(who would not like to show up for a train on the wrong
side of the 10 minute tolerance.)
-----Original Message-----
From: J. Forster
Sent: Wednesday, February 16, 2011 2:05 PM
----- snip -----
Since then, I've discovered I really don't need to know time
to much better than +/- 10 minutes.
FWIW,
-John
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
My original (red box) T-bolt runs off a 28VDC supply. For that, it has a built-in DC/DC converter. The specs are the same as they are for the more common (and more recent) version.
You do not need rocket science to make a switcher quiet enough for most purposes, just care and good engineering.
When circuits are extremely sensitive to supply noise (I mean by that way out of the ordinary sensitivity), the problem may be with the circuit design rather than with the supply.
Didier KO4BB
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Magnus Danielson magnus@rubidium.dyndns.org
Sender: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 10:47:31
To: time-nuts@febo.com
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt Supply
On 02/15/2011 04:18 AM, Charles P. Steinmetz wrote:
Bob wrote:
If all you are doing is running a Thunderbolt, you don't need a supply
that's more quiet than most batteries.
Most batteries are very quiet -- it takes heroic measures to get any
actively regulated supply into that ballpark. Indeed, one might be
tempted to run a Tbolt off of three batteries, each one charged by a
low-noise, high-impedance current source that puts out about .05 CV more
than the Tbolt draws. One could even turn the charging off for short
periods of "minimal noise" operation, if the batteries were suitably
sized. However, in either case I would be concerned that the drift of
one or more of the battery voltages (poor absolute regulation) might
introduce another source of XO drift -- but I have not tried it.
This has gone overboard. The T-bolt generates digital noise all by
itself. It's the OCXO which would benefit most from a clean supply and
isolation from the rest of the T-bolt except that temp-sensor.
Providing ultra-clean supplies to the digital logic would be overkill,
as it would mess it up itself anyway.
Cheers,
Magnus
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Didier et al,
I did not ask for, and did not expect rocket science. Just a simple solution or advice from some of the much more experienced people on this list. I am trying to put my equipment together after having had everything in storage for several years. Being retired and on a limited budget, I am trying to make what I have work, rather than trying to reinvent the wheel.
Given enough time and an unlimited budget, I'm sure that I could come up with a better solution.
For the time being, I was hoping that someone on the list could point me to a simple solution that would fit my needs and budget, thinking that lots of other people have had to go through similar steps with the number of Chinese switching power supplies that were sold with the Thunderbolts, both here on the list and on eBay.
just care and good engineering.
I totally agree. I did that professionally for many years, but now I'm retired and no longer have access to the resources and test equipment I used to have access to at work. Other people on the list have access to better resources than I do and many people have more experience than I do, especially when it comes to switching power supplies.
I appreciate all the advice I was given, although nobody pointed me to a circuit with component values that I could simply duplicate, instead of having to go the whole process of getting my books off the shelf and do what others have already done.
No matter now. UPS just brought me a nice linear power supply today.
5 volts @ 28 amps and +/-12 volts @ 3 amps. Although probably many times overkill for the application and as big as breadbox, this should probably work, and without the unnecessary need to add complex (or not) filters.
Thanks again,
-- Flemming Larsen OZ6OI/KB6ADS Berkeley, CA, USA
Sent from my computer
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
On Feb 16, 2011, at 3:37 PM, Bill Hawkins wrote:
Well, this thread caused me to dig out a Girard-Perregaux
Gyromatic 39 jewel self-winder that my father gave me in the
late fifties, after his trip to Switzerland.
Holy Balance Wheel, Batman, that's some watch!
(I joined the group to see what's up.)
Do you have any idea what the thing is worth?
Roy
Roy Morgan
k1lky@earthlink.net
K1LKY Since 1958 - Keep 'em Glowing!
Fleming was perfectly located, in spite of himself, the problem of all groups and clubs in the world. There is always an imbalance between theory, practical experience and implementation. There are always good advice, but hardly any solutions. I invite us all to use most of the iron to finish the process that starts from the theory, design and ending with implementation. Otherwise we run the risk to celebrate itself without producing anything of working.
Luciano
Luciano P. S. Paramithiotti
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Flemming Larsen
Sent: giovedì 17 febbraio 2011 3.19
To: shalimr9@gmail.com; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt Supply - Final word
Didier et al,
I did not ask for, and did not expect rocket science. Just a simple solution or advice from some of the much more experienced people on this list. I am trying to put my equipment together after having had everything in storage for several years. Being retired and on a limited budget, I am trying to make what I have work, rather than trying to reinvent the wheel.
Given enough time and an unlimited budget, I'm sure that I could come up with a better solution.
For the time being, I was hoping that someone on the list could point me to a simple solution that would fit my needs and budget, thinking that lots of other people have had to go through similar steps with the number of Chinese switching power supplies that were sold with the Thunderbolts, both here on the list and on eBay.
just care and good engineering.
I totally agree. I did that professionally for many years, but now I'm retired and no longer have access to the resources and test equipment I used to have access to at work. Other people on the list have access to better resources than I do and many people have more experience than I do, especially when it comes to switching power supplies.
I appreciate all the advice I was given, although nobody pointed me to a circuit with component values that I could simply duplicate, instead of having to go the whole process of getting my books off the shelf and do what others have already done.
No matter now. UPS just brought me a nice linear power supply today.
5 volts @ 28 amps and +/-12 volts @ 3 amps. Although probably many times overkill for the application and as big as breadbox, this should probably work, and without the unnecessary need to add complex (or not) filters.
Thanks again,
-- Flemming Larsen OZ6OI/KB6ADS Berkeley, CA, USA
Sent from my computer
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
A while ago, I took a pair of watches (a Bulova and a Seiko) that needed new batteries to a fancy jewelry store here in town (VanDeGriff) because I thought they would do a good job.
The Bulova took 6 weeks... (They apparently did not service anything locally and had to sent it out). They said they had to replace the movement, which I did not know needed replacement. I asked them to return the bad movement with the watch, but I never got it. They broke the crystal on the Seiko and replaced it with a different one, which I made them replace again (good thing that I took very sharp digital pictures of the watches before I turned them over to the store).
They did not charge me for the crystal on the Seiko (they broke it), but that one took 3 months and cost $25 ($10 for the battery and $15 for shipping both ways to the repair shop). I paid well over $100 for the Bulova.
Since then, I bought a set of tools to safely open the back of most of my watches. For those I do not want to do myself, I take them to a small shop in the local mall that replaces the battery while you wait and you can see the guy while he does it. I have not had problem with him whatsoever, and he charges $7. He does not do pressure checks.
I have returned watches directly to Seiko in the US (Coserv) for movement or crystal replacement. A new movement costs about $90 and a crystal costs about $15. They do a good job (as far as doing what you ask them to do), but they apparently do not routinely replace the o-ring or do pressure check because the watches I got back from them all took moisture... Next time I send one, I will specifically ask for new o-rings and pressure check.
I have also returned a Citizen to Citizen US because the number 12 had come unglued from the face. They also did an excellent job for little money.
YMMV
Didier KO4BB
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Albertson albertson.chris@gmail.com
Sender: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2011 11:53:27
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurementtime-nuts@febo.com; W1LEstanw1le@verizon.net
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Tool Needed to Access my Timer Battery
Almost any place that sells quality watches will replace the battery
for you for about the price of the battery. It takes about 5 minutes
and they will have the tools and battery You should get most of your
$10 bill back as change
Typically there are two types of rear covers some are threaded and
others use a snap/friction fit.
Battery and o-rings are not designed special for each model of watch
and are standard parts
--
Chris Albertson
Redondo Beach, California
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
Precisely because most of us do not have access to much fancy test equipment (I am one of the lucky ones), there is no excuse for not using freely available, quality tools (assuming that you have a computer) like LT Spice.
Of course, you have to be careful as the quality of the output from any simulation software will only be as good as the inputs you feed into it. However, used appropriately, it will save you hours on the bench, and avoid the pain and embarrassment of building something that may have a major flaw.
Also, it allows you to verify that your circuit will work under conditions that may be difficult to experimentally create (such as aging, component tolerances and temperature).
So when Bruce offers his advice based on Spice simulations, I pay attention.
Didier KO4BB
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
-----Original Message-----
From: "Paramithiotti, Luciano Paolo S" luciano.paramithiotti@hp.com
Sender: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com
Date: Thu, 17 Feb 2011 08:37:24
To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurementtime-nuts@febo.com
Reply-To: Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
time-nuts@febo.com
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt Supply - Final word
Fleming was perfectly located, in spite of himself, the problem of all groups and clubs in the world. There is always an imbalance between theory, practical experience and implementation. There are always good advice, but hardly any solutions. I invite us all to use most of the iron to finish the process that starts from the theory, design and ending with implementation. Otherwise we run the risk to celebrate itself without producing anything of working.
Luciano
Luciano P. S. Paramithiotti
-----Original Message-----
From: time-nuts-bounces@febo.com [mailto:time-nuts-bounces@febo.com] On Behalf Of Flemming Larsen
Sent: giovedì 17 febbraio 2011 3.19
To: shalimr9@gmail.com; Discussion of precise time and frequency measurement
Subject: Re: [time-nuts] Thunderbolt Supply - Final word
Didier et al,
I did not ask for, and did not expect rocket science. Just a simple solution or advice from some of the much more experienced people on this list. I am trying to put my equipment together after having had everything in storage for several years. Being retired and on a limited budget, I am trying to make what I have work, rather than trying to reinvent the wheel.
Given enough time and an unlimited budget, I'm sure that I could come up with a better solution.
For the time being, I was hoping that someone on the list could point me to a simple solution that would fit my needs and budget, thinking that lots of other people have had to go through similar steps with the number of Chinese switching power supplies that were sold with the Thunderbolts, both here on the list and on eBay.
just care and good engineering.
I totally agree. I did that professionally for many years, but now I'm retired and no longer have access to the resources and test equipment I used to have access to at work. Other people on the list have access to better resources than I do and many people have more experience than I do, especially when it comes to switching power supplies.
I appreciate all the advice I was given, although nobody pointed me to a circuit with component values that I could simply duplicate, instead of having to go the whole process of getting my books off the shelf and do what others have already done.
No matter now. UPS just brought me a nice linear power supply today.
5 volts @ 28 amps and +/-12 volts @ 3 amps. Although probably many times overkill for the application and as big as breadbox, this should probably work, and without the unnecessary need to add complex (or not) filters.
Thanks again,
-- Flemming Larsen OZ6OI/KB6ADS Berkeley, CA, USA
Sent from my computer
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.
As an aside to the watch repair business, a large number of brands
primarily Swiss, will no longer supply parts to watchmakers. This has
become a big issue among the independent watch repairers in the US. It
really is an issue of restraint of trade but is currently unresolved.
Though not exclusively, the makers refusing to supply parts are the
higher end makers. In order to get your Patek Phillipe repaired for
example, you must bring it to an authorized Patek dealer who then
(usually) will send it to a central repair location. The cost of repair
is substantially higher under those circumstances. A list of makers
refusing to supply parts to independent repairers can be found here:
http://www.ccwatchmaker.com/restrictedbrands.html
Bill S
hate say it.
Time for the $3 timex
On Thu, Feb 17, 2011 at 2:21 PM, Bill S wls@jbpet.com wrote:
As an aside to the watch repair business, a large number of brands
primarily Swiss, will no longer supply parts to watchmakers. This has become
a big issue among the independent watch repairers in the US. It really is an
issue of restraint of trade but is currently unresolved. Though not
exclusively, the makers refusing to supply parts are the higher end makers.
In order to get your Patek Phillipe repaired for example, you must bring it
to an authorized Patek dealer who then (usually) will send it to a central
repair location. The cost of repair is substantially higher under those
circumstances. A list of makers refusing to supply parts to independent
repairers can be found here:
http://www.ccwatchmaker.com/restrictedbrands.html
Bill S
time-nuts mailing list -- time-nuts@febo.com
To unsubscribe, go to
https://www.febo.com/cgi-bin/mailman/listinfo/time-nuts
and follow the instructions there.